Provincia de Santiago

Santiago. [Pic 1] Nothing embodies the old city more than this statue, the Monument to the Freedom of America. The statue commemorates the liberation of Latin America from Spanish colonial rule. But the statue has Minerva, a European classical goddess, bestowing freedom on a passive indigenous recipient. All of the conflicted elements of identity surface in this one piece.

I had a busy first day. Arriving at 8:00 am or so, the hotel graciously checked me in, allowing a shower and leisurely breakfast. Then a walkabout downtown. The streets were swarming with student protesters upset with education cuts. I managed to checkout Las Almas, their central square, the 19th century Basilica and massive Cathedral.

Not rest for the weary, I spent the rest of the day at the Parque Metropolitano, a massive park on hills in central Santiago. The tour started with a funicular to the top, a walkabout and view of the Virgin of the immaculate conception, emblem of the city, celebrating the 50th anniversary of Pope Pius IX’s 1854 declaration of the Catholic dogma of the Immaculate Conception, “Its outstretched by hands are a familiar nineteenth-century Marian image of welcome, blessing, and protection over the city.”

Then a cable car to the far end. After a hearty walk, I found the Jardin Japones, recently expanded. [Pics 12-14] Crowded with couples but quite fantastic.

The afternoon concluded with a lively bar with custom-made drinks by Constanza. Inquiring about local wine led to a happy hour with the manager on duty, Filipe. The conversation was so lively he joined me for dinner. A stellar evening.Read more