Rwanda Hayiro

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  • Day 11–13

    Nyungwe, Rwanda to Bwindi, Uganda

    January 24 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had the bike trail planned way in advance of our trip and we do have some great things sorted out over the next month or so but we decided at the last minute to take advantage of being at the southern tip of Lake Kivu to visit Nyungwe National Park and do a jungle canopy walk.

    Big mistake. The website for the park is great and details all of the various activities we could do there and the canopy walk at 40$ each seemed like a reasonable price to pay for a 2 or 3 hour adventure in the jungle and to cross a 70m high suspension walk.

    What the website failed to mention was the park entrance fee. Wow! That was a shocker but as we had travelled 40 minutes to get there, we kind of felt obliged to go ahead and pay the entrance fee PLUS the canopy walk fee and make the most of the wildlife and birds in the park.

    What wildlife? Which birds? The best the guide could come up with was a quick Google search and an audio clip of something in the trees that we couldn’t see.

    There is a pic or 2 below of the views from the canopy walkway but at a cost of total cost of $$$, we will not be recommending this particular jaunt to anybody else.

    When we told Yannick from Lava Bikes, who was still with us to take us back up north, he said, “I thought it might be a bit pricey.” Cheers!

    The rest of Friday was a Transit Day - capitalised as there are going to be a few of these. Again, the distance wasn’t that great but this was Rwanda and the hills, bends and switchbacks are never ending. One corner is called Mother Mary, as you are supposed to cross yourself before going around it.

    However, the 6 hours did pass relatively quickly because there is always something to look at in a foreign land. As well as the 3 lads hitching a tow up one particular hill (photo below) on the back of a lorry, it was also a Friday which meant market day in each town or village we passed through.

    The usual busyness, noise and colour of the roadsides was multiplied many times over with goods and produce being taken to or away from markets stalls. With almost no 4 wheeled vehicles here, the volume of bikes and motorbikes was huge.

    As we neared the end of our journey in the border town of Ruhengeri, a second last minute decision to book a tiny, dusty back street guesthouse for the night, turned out to be an excellent one. Behind the big metal gates, Little Bird Paradise was indeed just that. Our host, Chance, was a wonder ordering us a takeaway, bringing drinks to our patio and providing the most wonderful garden setting for our last night in Rwanda.

    We are wondering how many last minute decisions we will make and whether we should keep a tally of good and bad outcomes. At the moment it is 1-1!

    Our last (ever) Rwandan breakfast provided by Chance, continued the feel good factor before Yannick, who had agreed to take us to our first port of call in Uganda, picked us up.

    We were strangely nervous about the border crossing having read too many stories about palms needing to be crossed. We needn’t have worried. It was a doddle and whilst the immigration official asked us if we had Yellow Fever Certificates, she didn’t actually want to see them😀.

    So by 1000, we were in country number three of our trip and heading up to Bwindi Inpenetrable Forest. This was a 2nd Transit Day in a row but with the prospect of gorilla trekking on Sunday and then 2 days R & R at Lake Matunda, the first sights and sounds of Uganda only added to our excitement.

    As we write this we are looking out across The Inpenetrable Forest which, right now, is The Invisible Forest. The end of the rainy season here has delivered yet another massive late afternoon thunderstorm. We sympathise with friends at home who have had some wind and rain recently, but the current deluge in Bwindi is actually rather exciting.

    Fingers crossed for clear skies and 🦍 🦍 tomorrow but for now, we need to catch up with the finale of The Traitors 🏰
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  • Day 121–123

    Nyungwe forest

    January 15, 2024 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Nyungwe forest is one of the best preserved rainforests in africa, with a very wide biodiversity of plants, birds, and, the primary visitor attraction, monkeys. And it has an canopy walkway.

    They advertise „chimpansee tracking“ and other kinds of tracking, to only go after that certain animal with some chance of success (it isn’t guaranteed), but also many nature walks which they advertise with all the things you can see. Which is what I did and, to cut straight to it, I hardly saw any monkeys. No chimps, no colobus monkeys, no other monkeys during the entire hike except for mountain monkeys and baboons on the road and the visitors center, and only a handful of birds worth mentioning: among them turacos, which are definitely very beautiful birds. The hike was nice, the info from the guide very interesting, but after paying 140$ I cannot help feeling that I kind of left empty-handed. (It was also foggy, so the grandiose views of lake kivu or burundi were also not given to us.

    Some words on the way there though: leaving kigali I, of course, had to climb a lot, and was accompanied by some of the most disgusting trucks and busses I have ever experienced. The black smoke that comes over those things — and they really crawl up the hill— is unbelievably disgusting. I did meet another cyclist on the way who had pretty much the same route in mind (rwanda, uganda, kenya) but we split up to go each at our own paces. I went to a museum of the old kings palace, took a detour across gravel which I thought would be quicker but was incredibly slow, and I stumbled on coffee plants. I actually thought they were trees but hugging these would probably result in me breaking something, so I refrained.Also, next to Nyungwe forest there are huge, really huge, tea plantations, and I absolutely love the tea with milk here. (Its like chai masala…)

    Before Nyungwe no nice children running alongside, only children and people begging for money: they come up to you and just say “give me money”. Its horrible that Kigali is so well-off, but there seems to be so much poverty in other districts. (Not all, villages are generally not very poor, but I constantly get approached for money in some parts; also while cycling.)

    My experience of people alongside the road changes in the next footprint ^^.
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  • Day 59

    N-W-Z Rwanda

    November 10, 2019 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We zullen eens beginnen in het Kinyarwanda (locale taal) hé.

    "Bite",
    De schoolbezoeken zitten er allemaal op, ruim 50 interviews achter te rug. Dit ter zijde heb ik zo ongeveer heel het land gezien samen met mijn persoonlijke chauffeur. Van prachtig gestructureerde theeplantages tot het onherbergzame wondermooie en koudere noorden van het land.
    Het schitteren van de gigantische groene bananenbladeren in de ochtend blijft elke keer opnieuw iets magisch hebben... Over groen geluk gesproken 😉.
    De komende maand zal druk analyseren worden en tussendoor wat ontspannen uiteraard!
    Voor de rest ga ik de foto's hun werk laten doen haha.
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  • Day 3

    Nyungwe reënwoud

    August 9, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Ons het opgestaan met die mooiste uitsig. Ontbyt is ingesluit by ons verblyf, so na ontbyt het ons klaargemaak en Uwinka visitor centre toe gery (vir 45min aan 34km). Die lorries ry vinnig en gaan oor in die ander baan om die draaie. Ons het ook bobbejane gesien langs die pad, maar hulle lyk maar soos in SA.

    Hermien wil hê ek moet sê sy is gesond. Sy is nie. Sy is wel beter, en in haar element na vandag se stappery.

    By Uwinka betaal mens vir toegang en dan vir die Canopy toer en vir 'n gids. Ons kry darem afslag omdat ons van Afrika is, maar dis nog steeds maar duur. Mens mag nie loop sonder 'n gids nie. Daar is ORAL militêre mannetjies wat die woud beskerm. Hulle werk 12 uur skofte en bly ook in die woud. Die geld gaan gelukkig vir hulle werkskepping en bewaring van die woud, so dis nie so erg nie.

    Ons kry toe 'n gids (nie ek of Hermien kan haar naam onthou nie, maar sy is 26, baie oulik en het in die woud grootgeword). Sy doen tot 5 keer 'n dag die roetes, en as haar gaste wil draf, draf sy saam. Sy doen ook maratonne.

    Ons besluit (hmmmmm, ek wonder altyd van voor af hoekom ek vriende is met super fikse mense) toe om die canopy toer en daarna nog 'n 3 en 'n half ure hike te doen. Die Umuyove (dis die kinyarwanda woord vir Mahogany) roete is omtrent 5,5km lank en gaan verby 'n waterval en baie mahogany bome, wat massief en baie oud is (die militêre mannetjies beskerm hulle veral, want dis baie duur hout). Ons drink lekker water by die waterval en sien silwerapies en bergapies. Hermien maak seker dat ons elke 50 min klokslag snackies en water kry, want sy ken van endurance (ek nie). Die stap is wel baie af en baie op. En die laaste km tap ek uit en ry op 'n 'moto' - dis die motorfietsies.
    Voor die Umuyove stap ons eers na die canopy en loop oor die canopy walkway. Dit is in 2010 gebou en is ongeveer 70 m bo die grond so mens loop bo die bome en het die ongelooflikste uitsig. Dit bestaan uit 3 hangbrûe wat in totaal omtrent 200m lank is. Al die brûe word 2 keer 'n dag volledig nagegaan om te kyk dat als reg en veilig is.
    Nyungwe woud is ongeveer 970 vierkante km groot (een van die grootste en oudste beskermde reënwoude in Afrika) met 'n reënval van omtrent 2000mm 'n jaar.

    Hermien word Miena Mahogany gedoop deur ons gids, want sy dink sy is so lank soos 'n mahogany boom.

    Na ons stappie deel ons 'n hoender quesadilla by die koffiewinkeltjie in Uwinka en gaan dan huis toe. Dis gelukkig Mien se bestuur dag so ek vang 'n lekker nap tot sy skielik rem vir 'n lorrie wat letterlik in ons baan is, en later weer vir 'n trop bobbejane in die pad.

    By Nyungwe Nziza Ecolodge, waar ons slaap in die tent, en daar net koue water in die stort by die ablusieblokke is, gee hulle vir ons 'n sleutel van een van die kamers en sê ons kan daar warm gaan stort. Lafenis! Daarna gaan eet ons en kom slaap. Willem stick ons vir aandete vir vrouedag (cuuuuuute - dankie Willem).

    Hermien se stats (van haar Garmin af):
    ons het 15000 treë geloop,
    afstand was 8,25km,
    elevation 550m.
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  • Day 23

    Follow that monkey!

    June 19, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Early morning in Uwinka station and first disappointing message - "Colobus monkeys are very far, on the hard trail, maybe do something else". But then, after me insisting to go and other guide endorsing my "physical shape", we departed quickly, to catch the tribe before they move again. Which went well as long as we stayed on the trail. After 40 min we meet the trackers, inviting us to follow them on the very steep hill into the jungle, lucky cleared a bit with the machete. 700m up. More than one hour struggling, sweating, swearing and embracing the jungle. How great felt the moment of the first monkey staring at us from the tree above! And then the second one, the third one, they were everywhere :) very beautiful, peaceful animals, not easy to catch in the eye of a camera with all their jumps between branches. Seeing them in their natural habitat was definitely worth the effort and once in a lifetime experience. To say goodbye to the Forest, I could still get some nice shot of other monkey species, that preferred to stay on the road ;)

    Time to say goodbye to the jungle for now, the next one comes on Friday in the Volcanos National Park. In the meantime, I'm going to move to the next station tomorrow, Karongi on the Kivu lake.
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  • Day 22

    Rumble in the Jungle, part 1

    June 18, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The day started with a very scenic but safe, 50 mom long motobike ride through the National Park, with a couple of military checkpoints and animals on the way. Then I went to discover Imbaraga Trail - very steep and quite long (almost 5 hours walking) trail in the jungle. Stunning views on every step, all possible shades of green, hunderts of different sounds in the background. I was lucky enough to also get a very well prepared guide, who not only could spot different primates on the way, but also explain to me their behaviour. It turned out to be a very interesting biology class :) unfortunately the primates we met were a bit shy, so no great photos, but nothing is lost - tomorrow I will have a second round with dedicated Colobus monkey tracking!Read more

  • Day 21

    Let's go for a tea then

    June 17, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Finally departed! As sad as the last goodbye to all the amazing people that I had an honor to work with, I couldn't wait to start the "traveling part" of the trip. First stop was only 2h bis ride outside of Huye: Kitabi and charming Nziza Ecologe. Recommended and prepared by Eric, nothing could go wrong - the place is truly heaven on earth. Surrounded by tea plantations, on the border of Nyungwe NP, you can almost smell fresh air coming from the primary forest, hear the birds and water streams.

    Just before I go for a long hike tomorrow, I had a chance to learn more about tea and the forest itself on a short but very informative tour. It turned into a very fun coffee vs tea discussion with the guide, bringing yet another nice tourist business idea for the future ;)

    Being that close to the high altitude jungle and having such comfortable living conditions is really magic - I'm enjoying every minute of just looking into the lush green of the forest. Next step tomorrow, a motorbike taxi to the center of the forest and a 6h long hike :)
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  • Day 55

    Birthday Chimps for Katie

    November 9, 2019 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We wake up at around 4am for a Birthday treat for Katie- today we're going to try and see the Chimps in Nyungwe forest in the south of Rwanda.

    Bleary-eyed, we climb into the car for the drive through the park to the meeting point. We only managed to find out where we are meeting yesterday, by calling about 4 different people in the National Parks agency. When we bought our permits online, there was no mention of when or where to actually go to see the Chimps. It basically just said "Chimps". It really feels like Rwanda isn't so geared towards independent tourists.

    We head into the outskirts of the National Park, but we soon get lost, as there aren't many signs, and it's pitch black out. We come across a large group of heavily armed soldiers patrolling the border with Burundi and ask for directions.

    When we finally find the meeting point, we're told that we have to drive another 1h30 in the opposite direction to where the chimps actually are. To do so, we must follow a tour group, whose local driver seems to have a death wish. He drives well over the speed limit, aggressively overtaking every other vehicle, and often on blind corners around the steep hairpin turns that are so common in Rwanda. We have no choice but to keep up, and drive hell for leather to keep up.

    Eventually, we arrive at a spot in the middle of the dense jungle, and we proceed on foot. We navigate a small path through the forest, with the rangers cutting back the overgrown foliage. We've been told not to get our hopes up too much, as the chimps often stay high up in the trees, so we can only spot them from a distance, if at all.

    Not long after we start walking, however, we hear the hoots of the chimpanzees. It builds up to a cacophony of howling and screeching, seemingly from all sides. The forest is full of noise and activity. The sun streams through the leaves into our eyes, temporarily blinding us. The screaming gets louder and louder, echoing from all sides, disorientating us. "Look!" say the rangers "Up in the trees!". And we see them. The forest canopy is busy with primates, both chimpanzees and the smaller owl-faced monkeys.

    The rangers explain that the owl faced monkeys live around the chimps for protection, chimpanzees being the most feared animal in the forest. It's strange to use the term "mutually beneficial relationship" here, as the chimps often turn on the owl-faced monkeys in times of scarcity, and eat them.

    We watch these huge beasts clamber through the trees, when all of a sudden there's a crash behind us. We turn to see a chimp walking through the bush, metres away from us. Then, we hear a rustling behind us, and a small family- mum, dad and baby- descends from the canopy to the forest floor, just in front of us. It's a real treat, and proof that they got the message that it's Katie's birthday, which is nice.

    After saying goodbye to our new primate pals, we head to the other side of the park. We are staying on the top of a tea plantation, with panoramic views over the forest. It's beautiful, and a little odd. The bar area is described as a Karaoke Bar, complete with mini booths for group sing-a-long sessions. However, there is no evidence of microphones, screens, speakers, or anything required for a half-decent Karaoke jam. We settle on a game of Ring-of-Fire, eating pizzas from the giant oven they've built here.
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  • Day 99

    Nyungwe Forest National Park

    August 13, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Traveled through stunningly beautiful countryside ranging from tea estates, to rice paddies to rainforest. When we arrived at the park in the early afternoon, we joined a canopy walk that went into the forest and visited a very high and long canopy walk that had been built by the Canadians in 2010. Being afraid of heights, Christy was quite proud to have made it across – albeit very tentatively. Unfortunately we didn’t see any monkeys on the walk as it was packed full of teenage Rwandans who were so excited and busy taking selfies that it would have scared away any critters. Still, nice to see young locals enjoying their amazing parks. Fortunately we camped in the park and were able to see a few different kinds of monkeys in the morning – the forest monkey and blue monkey. Unfortunately we didn’t get any good photos – just a few from the iphone.Read more

  • Day 10

    Uwinka Overlook

    July 9, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    A luxurious lie in until 7.30am, breakfast of cereal, fruit and toast and departed for the canopy walk in Nyungwe Forest at 8.45am. The canopy walk, officially known as the Uwinka Overlook on the Igishigishigi Trail, is a 200 metre walkway suspended 90 metres above the forest floor, which affords spectacular views across the valley and is supposedly a good spot for bird watching.

    We were joined on the tour by 5 local Rwandans and 5 Chinese nationals who live in Rwanda (Chinese companies manage a lot of the road building in Rwanda), so we were a group of 15. The Rwandan government is trying to encourage locals to visit tourist spots in their own country by offering discounts to locals - the tourist price for this walk is $60 USD, but locals only pay 5000 Rwandan Francs ($6 USD).

    It was a pleasant 45 minute walk down to the start of the canopy walk, then single file across the suspension bridge. We took our time making the crossing and loitered on the platforms for quite a while, but disappointingly only saw one Blue Monkey in the distance, and no birds for the entire journey.

    On the way back to the hotel for lunch we spotted a couple of L'Hoest monkeys (formerly known as Mountain Monkeys) near the road who hung around long enough for a few photos (lunch was Caeser Salad and a beef burger).

    We had a free afternoon so took up Aloys' offer of a lift to the centre of Kamembe for some shopping. Being Sunday afternoon not much was open, but we had some interesting chats and made a few small purchases.

    We had a briefing in the lounge in preparation for our trip to the DR Congo tomorrow, then dinner was in the hotel restaurant (fillet pepper steak and potato croquettes x2).
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