Spain Monda

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  • Day 45

    The second half of the story

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We think today’s walk provided the second half of the story to the question that has been in our minds since our walk from Tolox where we stumbled upon the gauging station and the large canal whose destination at that time was unknown to us. Today’s walk supplied the answer: it appears the canal fed a very long penstock that delivered water from the Aguilera stream to the San Augusto hydroelectric station (no longer functioning) on the Río Grande de Tolox. What a tremendous undertaking that must have been. The date on the building is 1932, so its construction preceded the Spanish Civil War by four years. There were evidently three hydroelectric stations that were part of the same system: the one just below Yunquera that we almost got to, but not quite; the San Augusto station that we saw today; and one in between those two points that we haven’t walked anywhere near, San Pascual.

    Our route took us south from Alozaina, and gave us wonderful views of the surrounding mountains as well as Alozaina and Tolox as we walked downhill to Arroyo de Los Valles. There were five stream crossings which had us wondering ahead of time, but all turned out to be easy to cross. For the return leg, we walked up the valley of the Río Grande de Tolox, past the power station, along a section of single track, and then onto wider dirt and concrete tracks before joining the A366 back to Alozaina.

    Note re the video: We met the shepherd and his dogs shortly after, and he confirmed there were more than 200 sheep in his flock.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/alozaina-central-…
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  • Day 28

    GR 243 Guaro to Monda

    March 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    It’s amazing what a few days of brilliant sunshine with highs in the mid 70s will do for drying up tracks and paths. We were able to walk from Guaro to Monda on the GR today without any problems at all. All of the fords we were worried about were dry. We were passed by two mountain bikers on the trail, but otherwise we didn’t see anyone else even though it’s a Saturday and you would expect lots of people to be out. The route has a remote feeling of being out in the mountains with high peaks close by.

    Back in Guaro, it was obvious that something special was going on. In front of the ayuntamiento, just below our house, musicians were setting up amplifiers and children were gathering around floats. It must be something like the village’s Saint day. From our rooftop, we have a front row seat for the festivities.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/gr-243-guaro-mond…
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  • Day 35

    Thanks to Wikiloc…

    April 5 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We were lucky with conversations this morning. A man who was out early cleaning the streets saw our hiking gear and chatted with us for several minutes about the state of the trails, how much water there was in the rivers, how many days a week he worked, and all the other questions we could think of to ask him. Next we noticed a gathering just outside the village with women cooking refreshments and setting up tables. One of them turned and called out to us. We were surprised that anybody would notice us, and then all of a sudden, we realized it was the friendly woman from the museum yesterday who had given us so much background about the village. She told us they were getting ready for a celebration that included a 20 km horseback ride with all the horses decked out in their best finery.

    They certainly had a great day for the fiesta. A few clouds in the sky gave welcome shade, but yesterday‘s rain was gone. We made our way up the GR 243 between Tolox and Guaro following the plentiful GR markings. When we were up high enough to see both Yunquera and Alozaina, we stopped for a snack break and then took a rough dirt track back to Tolox.

    Every day that we have a successful walk like this, we marvel that we can come to a village that we knew nothing about a year ago, and thanks to the Wikiloc app, we can find interesting tracks to walk in a different direction every day. By using the filters in Wikiloc’s search function, we can find local tracks of a certain length or a certain elevation gain, and we can even sort tracks by how recently they were uploaded They all have copious notes from local walkers, pointing out things to see and spots that might be tricky. It really is amazing to be able to find such obscure trails and follow them so easily.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tolox-gr-243-loop…
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  • Day 34

    Rest day in Tolox

    April 4 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    It would be more accurate to call it a business day because we had some paperwork we needed to complete for my wrist accident. Ned found a helpful papelería where we could print up the necessary forms.

    We had enough time left over to visit the local museum. It has a personalized collection of items donated by local families. The trillo (thresher) was particularly interesting because, unlike the one that formed our table base in Marbella, it did not use embedded sharp stones for the cutting edges. Instead, it had iron bars that were notched into the toboggan-like wooden sled. Old photos show local farmers sitting on these while a mule pulled the sled around and around on a stone threshing floor (an era) to separate the wheat from the chaff.

    The lady in charge of the museum explained everything, particularly emphasizing how hard life was all through the 1900s in villages like this. All the water used in a house had to be hauled up from the river in jugs that were stored in specially designed holders, los cantareras, in the kitchen.

    She pointed out a photo of the central plaza taken in 1900 (125 years ago!) showing a water channel that ran through town. It was opened from time to time and in the summertime, children delighted in splashing in it.
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  • Day 30

    Last day in Guaro

    March 31 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    In the middle of Guaro, there is a fountain that was established by the village in the 1950s because the existing fountain wasn’t sufficient to serve the large number of mule teams working in the fields around here. Each evening the drinking troughs on both sides served tired and thirsty livestock. This fountain was specifically reserved for use by animals; no washing clothes or filling jugs for household water here.

    Today our wandering track through orchards and huertas (gardens) made us think about the changes in farm vehicles that have come to this area. We didn’t see any working animals, but we saw plenty of chugging carts carrying workers and supplies to and from jobs in the countryside.

    This track down to the river (a different river than yesterday, but with the same name - very confusing) is gentle and even has several level stretches, making today’s walk much easier than the others we have done from Guaro. The icing on the cake was a distant view of snow- capped Mulhacén, the highest peak in mainland Spain. It brought back happy memories of climbing almost to the top in 2018.

    Tomorrow we’ll be moving on to Tolox, the next village north on the GR 243.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/guaro-south-to-ri…
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  • Day 29

    Two river crossings

    March 30 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Today’s walk in 10 words: way down; way up; way down; way up; all beautiful!

    Our loop trail started out by dropping steeply down to the Rio Seco, so we could see from quite high up that the river wasn’t going to live up to its name. It was definitely not “seco” (dry). We hoped the ford would be dry like yesterday‘s, but as we approached it, we could clearly hear and then see that there was a lot of water running over it. After some back-and-forth about whether the current was too strong, Ned took my poles for a trial run near the top of the ford. He thought it would be safe for me to cross as long as I kept my feet pointed into the current to minimize drag, We crossed together, so I could hang onto him!

    On the other side, we climbed up to a remote area with clear views of Torrecilla. Another steep downhill brought us to our second river crossing. A great sense of relief washed over me when I saw that there was a nice sturdy bridge high above the river.

    All along the route today we saw signs of the damage caused by the month-long rains. At the first river crossing, which was about 10 feet wide, the sand carried up by the high water indicated that the crossing would have been underwater for a width of about 30 feet two weeks ago. After the second bridge, the track itself had been undercut and had gaping holes at the edge. There were many spots where rocks had come cascading down as the cliffsides broke away under the torrents of rain. We’re guessing it will take a long time to repair everything.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/guaro-arroyo-seco…
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  • Day 27

    Almond Blossom Circuit

    March 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    We didn’t see any almond blossoms on the Almond Blossom Circuit today (they bloom in January-February), but we did get a 360° view of the mountains that surround Guaro, and we got to hear the debut performance of the Opera of the Dogs (see video😁).

    We haven’t seen other walkers out on the trail so far this trip, but today we met two women from Yunquera, a village north of here that we will be staying in two weeks from now, They were enthusiastic about trading photos, and were able to give us the names of the villages we were looking at from the magnificent high point of this route.

    There are plenty of trails around Guaro, enough to keep us busy for the four days we are spending here. The route we took today is the medium blue one on the Gaia master map in today’s photos.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/guaro-almond-blo…
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  • Day 26

    Guaro

    March 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We love Guaro and our compact little house here! Guaro is only a short distance away from Monda, but it seems like a totally different world. The street plan is like a maze. I don’t think anything meets at right angles, very typical of a village established during Muslim times. In fact, I think our house is on what would be called an adarve - a narrow dead end lane characteristic of traditional Muslim urbanism (not the castle walkway type of adarve). It allows access to the houses in the center of a block, buildings that would otherwise not have any street access. (Think of trying to access the hole in the center of a donut. ) I read about this term last year when I was translating a book about villages in the Sierra Nevada area, but this is the first time that I’ve ever seen one. Our adarve is unusual in that it dead ends in the center of the block with a set of stairs leading to the innermost house. The lane is so narrow that when we left our door shutters open at lunchtime, we could hear the conversation from the house across the street where their door shutters were also open while they were having lunch. It’s quite a nice, cozy situation and encourages neighborliness. When we headed out to the market, our neighbor was doing the same and welcomed us to the street.

    The GR 243 connects Monda and Guaro, so we had originally planned to walk here, but ended up taking the bus because of river crossings that are still too high. We are hoping to be able to walk that route later in the week. Today we explored the town on a route that highlights the medieval character of Guaro. I thought that I recorded our route on Wikiloc as usual, but when we got back, I realized I must have pressed “explore” rather than “record”. But you can see the route on the National Park website below.

    www.sierranieves.com/descargas/callejeros/calle…
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  • Day 25

    Last Day in Monda

    March 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We’ve been in Monda for seven days now, and amazingly, we’ve been able to walk a different route every single day. This village has a remarkable number of trails leading out from it.

    Ned has been having great fun using the app Merlin to identify the birds we are hearing as we walk along. Today we not only heard a Eurasian blackbird’s song, but he also sat nicely on a branch right in front of us as he sang. (Ned joked that what we need next is an app that identifies dog breeds by their bark so we can have more information about the endless number of vigorous growls, yelps, and yips that come from behind the fences we are passing by.)

    The final steep ascent on the PR-A 277 was covered with loose stones that I estimated I could go up, but probably could not come down safely. So only Ned climbed up to see the wide-ranging view from the top, including an active limestone quarry (which I had mistakenly told him was a marble quarry). Meanwhile, the activity at the bee boxes kept me entertained while I waited.

    Our casa rural here proved to be in a very handy location for all the trailheads, as well as the village food shop. The house has a number of things that remind us of what it would have been like to live here several generations ago: three-foot thick walls; beamed ceilings; an old hand pump; and a collection of artifacts lovingly displayed. It feels good to have this history around us.
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  • Day 24

    Dry socks?

    March 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    When we were putting things into the day pack for our loop walk this morning, I considered throwing in an extra pair of socks for each of us. Nah, I thought, we won’t need them. If we come to a river that is too deep to cross, we’ll just turn around and come back like we have on other days. Bad decision. Just when we reached the point where it made more sense to go forward rather than turn around, the nice wide track we had been following turned into an overgrown, rocky, narrow path working its way up a steep arroyo.. The first six creek crossings worked out well, but no matter how many rocks Ned threw in at crossing number seven, it was clear I was not going to be able to keep my feet dry, much less make the required leap at the end to head up a muddy, slippery slope. After much agonizing, I did what I should’ve done in the first place. I just rolled up my trousers, walked right through, came out the other side and up the slope fine, and within five minutes didn’t even notice that my feet were wet. Ned’s were too, after all his efforts to help me. But wool socks do a great job of keeping one’s feet comfortable, wet or dry.

    When we weren’t in the ravine, we had great views of the same mountains we saw yesterday in all their snowy glory. But today, we were very surprised that there was no snow on them. It seems it was just a lucky break that we did a trail yesterday that allowed us to see the snow that had fallen during Sunday’s storm two days ago.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/monda-double-loop…
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