Tui

Last night was a first on my Camino journey—I shared a room with not one, but two snorers. I’m honestly surprised I’ve made it this far without encountering this particular challenge, but I can safely say I’m not a fan. Without any air conditioning to cool the room, getting a good night’s rest was pretty much impossible.

By 5:30 a.m., I was awake and ready to try and beat the heat of the day. However, now that I’m in Spain, there’s a time difference to contend with, so it was technically only 4:30. When I realized it was still pitch dark outside, it certainly didn’t make getting out of bed any easier.

Over the past few days, I’ve perfected the art of silently climbing down from the top bunk, ensuring my bag is prepped the night before, and having my clothes folded and ready to go on top. I didn’t want to disturb my one-night roomies, especially after a night of restless sleep. Walking in the dark didn’t seem appealing after my last few sketchy encounters, so I took my time, had a leisurely cup of coffee, made some breakfast, and waited for the sun to rise.

As the first light started to creep over the horizon, I finally set off. Sunrise is easily my favorite time of day—so quiet, so peaceful. The world feels almost sacred in those early hours. As I predicted, the trail was busier now, with other pilgrims always somewhere ahead or behind me. It’s comforting to know you’re never truly alone on the Camino - at least this part.

Today’s walk held a surprise. I had been dreading this stretch, expecting it to be alongside a busy road and through an industrial area, based on what I had read. But it seems the route was recently rerouted, and I had the option to go through a forest instead. It added a bit of distance, but it was absolutely worth it. The shade, the fresh air, the tranquility—it was the Camino at its best.

Around 11:30 a.m., just as I was arriving in town, the sun really started to beat down. Luckily, I had packed a small sun umbrella, which provided some much-needed relief from the heat. I might have looked a little silly, but I didn’t care—it worked like a charm. I found a little path that ran alongside a river and, since I couldn’t check into my hotel for another hour, I took the opportunity to sit down, soak my feet in the cool water, and read. There’s truly nothing better than a cold river on hot, swollen ankles after a long day of walking.

By the end of the day, my Achilles tendons were screaming with every step, but I knew I was close and pushed through the pain. Tonight, I’m staying at a charming little hostel run by an older Spanish pilgrim who walked the Camino a few years ago. He doesn’t speak any English, but he’s incredibly kind—he even carried my bag for me. Earlier, I watched him help another pilgrim scrub her clothes and hang them out to dry. These small acts of kindness mean the world when you’re exhausted at the end of the day.

The Camino is definitely getting busier!The hostel’s atmosphere changed when a group of about 15 girls from Ireland arrived. They were full of energy, having just started today and opted to have their bags transported from hostel to hostel. A lot of pilgrims judge people for doing for this, but I think as long as you’re out here, walking the Camino in your own way, that’s what really matters. Honestly, they might be the smart ones—they were out enjoying tapas and wine while I was icing my ankles!

After completing my end-of-day routine—showering, scrubbing my clothes, hanging them up, and giving myself 30 minutes to just lie down—I headed to the square for a well-deserved beer. One of the women from my hostel was there and invited me to join her. She’s from Germany and mentioned that she was an exchange student in Grand Island, Nebraska during high school. Small world—I found someone who knows the Huskers, Mom!

Afterward, I hobbled my way to the grocery store. There’s no way I could stay awake until the restaurants open at 8 p.m, so I made myself another gourmet turkey and cheese sandwich. I’ve KT taped my ankles and iced them, hoping for the best. There’s no AC in the hostel again tonight, and this room has about 25 beds which is the largest I’ve stayed in. So we’ll see how tonight goes!Read more