Spain Carrión de los Condes

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  • Day 21

    Moratinos

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    I almost skipped my entry for today - it’s just a mostly quiet, inward time, and not going to be interesting to you my family and friends, I think. But, a couple things came to mind.

    For one, I had the always lovely Camino experience of stepping into the next bar where you will again sit, rest, and drink coffee, and was unexpectedly and warmly greeted by a couple I met the very first night in St. Jean! We were so pleased to reconnect! And five minutes later I hear “Allison!” and it’s Belinda, who I last saw maybe a week ago, when she was struggling so much I thought she might have to head home. But no, here she was, and again, we were so pleased to meet back up and exchange news. So write a nexus in that little bar.

    And for myself I’m deep into a book called The Wisdom Jesus. So well timed and helpful to me as I walk the Meseta and also walk through Holy Week. Give me lots to ponder as I walk.

    Today was mostly rainy and windy, not super conducive to photo taking, but of course I took a few. I was happy the sizeable hailI saw in the frosty grass did not fall on me.
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  • Day 20

    Carrión de los Condes

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Quick one today, I think. Someone set their alarm for 5:30 today, (Bad form in an albergue!), but I decided getting an early start might be smart anyway, since I was a little worried about getting a bed. Probably unnecessarily. So I was walking by 6:10, in a cold wind under a nearly full moon. See attempted photo.

    The price I paid for my cold, dark, early start was no coffee or warm food for way too long. Nothing when I started, and then THREE little towns in a row let me down. When I did finally get to an open place it was great, and I had a nice chat with a woman from Canada. We communed over our love of merino wool, and she was very impressed by my pockets so I got to explain the whole skirt thing. Very satisfying!

    Nice, early arrival at my preferred albergue, welcomed by an efficient but also very warm nun, had a relaxing day. AND scored a new pair of liner toe socks, so now I don’t have to wash my one precious pair every day. Yay!! Did I mention that the ultra-distance runner I talked with as we left Burgos had Injinji as sponsor at one point? Well she did.

    Talked with some walking wounded today. Much bus-taking going on. One does not have warm enough clothes, was too cold today and tomorrow will be colder, so she’s probably wise to take the ride. Another’s feet are rebelling severely. I’m very grateful for my good gear and for my body so far putting up with all this.

    Tomorrow starts with a walk of 17 Km before the next town, the largest such gap on the whole Camino I believe, so I am NOT leaving town until I’ve had some coffee. Not happening.
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  • Day 19

    Frómista

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    For whatever reason, today started out feeling like a slog. Just a low start, made worse by the fact that it was an 11K walk to get to the first open cafe for some coffee. What happened to my plan to pack a little instant?!? It was only 9 K as it turned out because a very kind volunteer was providing coffee in tiny glasses in an ancient Ermita, where people have been caring for pilgrims for centuries. The tradition lives on! The stone carving is from that building.

    My sad and lonely blahs lifted after the cafe stop and a nice visit with a pilgrim from Portugal who I’ve been crossing paths with lately. Amazing what some coffee and a little human contact can do for the spirits.

    Arrived at my albergue without incident. Then the round of pilgrim life chores. Find an outlet to charge phone. Shower. Do the laundry. Find an ATM machine, because this town is big enough to have one and it’ll be a while. Dutifully visit the giant 15th century church on your way back, walking slowly on your tired feet. Check the laundry. Lie down!

    Also, because it’s Holy Week, and way more than usual people are arriving into the Camino, I had a little booking frenzy this afternoon. I’m not booked for tomorrow, so send me good vibes, but I am from Wednesday through Monday. I think. Pre planning, not my strong suit.
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  • Day 24–25

    Carrion de los Condes

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Staying tonight in Hostel de Santiago which is really a large, vintage hotel. It should have been a quick day, but we got a late start leaving Boadilla at 8:30 am. The thing about leaving early is you arrive earlier at your accommodation. This is important for a few reasons.

    1. If you arrive between 2 and 4 pm, places are open to feed you. If you arrive after 4...no food until 7:30.

    2. There is hot water available until about 2:30. After that, all bets are off because all of the pilgrims come in like wild herds and use all of the hot water.

    3. Most importantly - the weather here brews up after 12 pm. And when I say it brews up, it BREWS UP.

    Today should have been a 5 hour max walk...14.5 miles. BUT - with 40 MPH winds right in our face, and then kind of sleety rain banging us around...it felt like we were walking with those black rubber PT bands around our legs. We could barely move forward. My booty better have at least a little curve to it when this is all over.

    Tomorrow is Easter. Today as we were being knocked around like metal balls in a pinball machine - I kept thinking about how grateful I am. Grateful that all of the Christians who were persecuted as they walked this same path paid the price for me to walk it without being in fear of losing my life.

    When the Christians walked here, the Knights Templar did their best to protect them...but eventually, the Pope "dissolved" the group at the urging of the king, who owed the Knights Templar a LOT of money. The pope dissolved the group and the King forced false confessions and then burned many of them at the stake in the city squaSquare. Historical monuments here in Spain tell quite a story.

    My grateful heart also thought of St James...the brother of Jesus- who came to Spain to disciple to the people here. He returned to Jerusalem where he was beheaded and became the very first Christian martyr. They put his body and his head, on a boat that returned to France. His remains were carried along the path we are walking and are reportedly buried at the Compostela de Santiago, the cathedral in Santiago, Spain. This is how the Camino de Santiago became known as "The Way of St. James".

    I'm grateful for technology today as well. I'm blessed to be able to share this trip with you almost real time! And... although I'm not certain where...or if...we will be able to physically attend a service, we will be watching our home church, The Bridge, tomorrow on streaming video.

    Most of all. I'm grateful to my Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ, for giving His life to forgive us all for our sins and I'm grateful that on Esster Sunday...that stone was rolled away. He has risen.

    Happy Easter.
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  • Day 19

    A slow day

    October 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    It was a later start with the nuns coming to check we were all up and wishing us a heartfelt buen camino. I said my final farewell to the cyclist Vanessa. I'll miss her.
    As I headed out on my own, my head was distracted, and I got a little lost... not far out, but enough that a delightful man in a car came to a stop in the middle of a round about to redirect me.

    A day where I chose to walk in solitude for the first half. The walk started out feeling tedious, and my heart wasn't in it. My head was elsewhere. The trail was long and straight, and aside the main road. Today, the meseta lost some of its magic for me.

    I stopped to make a couple of calls back home and was soon passed by so many people with whom I have shared this journey. People whose names and faces are etched in my heart. We have laughed together, cried together, and kept each other going through so many miles. You simply don't forget those people

    It was not long before I arrived at the first coffee stop, which was an amazing van parked up serving coffee, orange juice, and food. What a lovely treat.

    Here I caught up with Lidia, the bubbly and lovely young Spanish girl, and Frederico, a really chatty Italian.

    We whiled away the miles to the lunch stop. I said sad farewells to Marco, Vinchenzo, Caesar, Eleanora and so many others. I sat chatting with 2 girls from the Netherlands and a French girl whose names escape me. This was to be my destination for today, but with the rain forecast for tomorrow, i decided to push on. After a drink, I headed out with these 3 plus Lidia and Frederico

    The afternoon passed quickly as we played a game of 'I went on a holiday and with me I took...' we got to a running list of 44 items to memorise before we called it quits.

    We were joined by an older Italian man, Antonio. He is lovely and wanted to show me photos of his grandson who is in Adelaide.

    When we parted ways tonight, Lidia and I exchanged hugs and phone numbers. I will forever remember her beautiful smile and her laughter.

    I'm in a dorm tonight . I couldn't tell you how many others are here. I chose not to do the pilgrim's meal. I'm just not feeling it.

    Tomorrow? About 10 miles to walk to Sahagun- the mid way point and where this journey will close for now.

    Steps today 36589
    Miles today 17.65
    Total miles 355.44
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  • Day 20

    Made it to Fromista

    October 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 19/40 one of the tougher days. Stunning views in the early part of the day. Did not arrive until 4.30pm to begin the afternoon rituals, magnesium, shower, wash clothes. Lovely to stay in the same hostal as last year. 🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️Read more

  • Day 27–28

    Boadilla to Carrion de Les Condes

    September 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    I left Ed to sleep and left in the dark as it was a longish walk and we were going to a Donativo with no booking available. Sunrise is not fully up until 8am now as we move into Autumn. What a day. The wind was even stronger than yesterday and we had a period of rain that was so heavy it was hard to move, it was one foot in front of the other and couldn’t look up. My rain poncho was tied on so tight over most of my face. It protected all my stuff well. Just my legs & feet were sopping wet. We made it to a cafe and got warm drink & food. My gear worked well and dried quickly & it was amazing how quickly such an intense weather experience was in the past. We stayed in a lovely parroquial church albergue and the young nuns played guitar and sang songs with us and asked the pilgrims to reflect on Camino experience then we went into church for a pilgrim blessing & then shared home cooked food. The volunteer hospitaleros were Italian school students doing work experience. It is these moments of community and sharing that make the experience special.Read more

  • Day 20

    Castrojeriz to Fromista

    September 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today Robbie and I walked our 24km and left before the sun came up. The sun started to rise in the field of the Meseta and I cried for the first 30 minutes of the walk. So many reasons why but all good cleansing tears.
    We are staying in a beautiful little town where we had tapas in the square and watched all the local families and kids play and visit and laugh together. Then we had an incredible meal in an art gallery.
    Today's Camino is brought to you by so many tears, fields of shame , the neverending hill, families in the square and art gallery ravioli. I really really loved today.
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  • Day 50

    The Meseta

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    What is the Meseta? It is 180 kilometers (112 miles) of flat farmland. Meseta means plateau in spanish and it feels like walking across central Washington or Kansas. Many pilgrims take a bus to avoid the vast, wind-swept track with no services and plenty of sun. I actually have enjoyed the last couple days.

    I have seen peaceful shepards with their sheep and trusty dog. I take a break to watch them interact. They really do know each sheep by name. They move the sheep to fertilize each field and the sheep can eat what is left after harvest. Quite clever.

    I enjoy the peace and quiet, except for the wind song and the bird song. There are endless crop fields: wheat on the better ground and barley and oats on the higher poorer soil. They were just putting in irrigation and planting other crops in some of the fields.

    The Meseta is a good place to think.
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  • Day 15

    Day 12: Fromistra to Carrion de los Cond

    September 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Spent the night in our first official Municipal Albergue in Fromistra, a pretty non de script Spanish town. Both us us spent night tossing and turning as we battled to get to sleep in a dormitory room of 40 plus. Only relief was inserting blue tack in my ears to get some lightweight sleep - thanks Bernard Fanning!

    Next day was a 20 km walk in the park following a path that was next to a main road. Surrounding us was dull farmland scenery. However, along the route we stopped at Villalcazar de Sirga to view the magnificent Santa Maria La Blanca, a gothic church built in the 12th century by the Knights Templar to protect pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land. Guide book stated that this was a church that should not be missed on the Camino - and it wasn’t wrong. I’ve attached photos to give you a sense of the wonder and construction.

    We arrived in Carrion de los Condes without much fatigue. On way into town we met this American guy in the middle of reviving the murals of an abandoned church. He called us in to show us his progress, which was inspiring. To fund this, he holds concerts at the local cathedral. Tonight there is a Spanish guitar rehearsal which Paul and I have been cordially invited to attend. He wants to have a few beers with us after the concert.

    Accomodation is getting tricky but both are winging it. Tonight we’re sleeping in (believe it or not) an operating Catholic convent that has rooms for pilgrims. Catherine Churchman would love this place. It’s functional and has that convent austerity about it.

    Paul and I sharing a room with Manolo, my Galician friend, who’s lying nearby trying to learn English online. A real character.

    I need to say here that of all the nationalities we’ve meet so far, some of the warmest and most effusive have been the Spanish on their trail. From Estella and Pep from Gerona, to Manuel based in Brussels, to Galician Monolo and Antonio and Rnelio near Madrid; they’ve all been genuine people.
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