Guenduláin

Today was another long and arduous, although beautiful, day. They say that the first third of the Camino is a physical challenge, as your body adjusts to the mountainous terrain. The second third, through the hot and flat meseta, is said to be a mental challenge. And the final, more populated and industrial third, is said to be a spiritual challenge. So far that's right.

Today's path was through beautiful woods with the river running alongside, the sound of the water a soothing melody. Little waterfalls and areas of rushing whitewater added to the music. We passed through charming little towns with their narrow streets and stone homes set up on the hills. Flowers are starting to bloom everywhere in yellows and purples, and farmers are busy repairing fences and tending the fields.

A bright spot was the riverside cafe in Zuriain, almost 13 km past Zubiri and the first food of the day, since my albergue didn't offer breakfast. I had freshly squeezed orange juice, which was delicious. A hundred or more pilgrims congregated here, enjoying the music and chatting together.

Terry, Vanessa, and I turned down the spinach tortilla to hold out for pizza cooked in the outdoor pizza oven in Iratz, just another km further. But it was May Day, a major holiday throughout the EU, and he was closed. Many businesses were closed, with families gathered in parks where the men grilled the food and women and children chatted and played in the grass. In the towns, people thronged to the bars, laughing and talking over drinks.

Just as I thought I couldn't walk another step, Pamplona appeared in the distance. We came to the wall of the ancient fortified city and crossed over a drawbridge with its huge gears to enter. May Day celebrations were in full force in the crowded streets. I was too exhausted to explore, instead making my way straight to my hotel.

After a long, hot shower and a little rest, I headed to the bar next door. The glass case was full of pinxtos, small plates of the most amazing food. First I had roasted artichoke hearts on a bed of mustard sauce with crisp, salty ham on top. Still hungry, I chose a skewer of shrimp and octopus with peppers and onions and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. It was a heavenly end to a long, hard day. Now for a day of rest and planning!Læs mere