Spain Museo e Iglesia de San Martín Pinario

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  • Day 18

    Leisure day in Santiago and Milladoiro

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Met for dinner with Arlene’s original walking friend Jayme last night near our apartment. It was nice to see her again and as she went her own way once we arrived in Porto.

    Today, Kenny, Arlene and I spent about an hour trying to find a taxi to drive us back the the Cathedral in Santiago trying to avoid the 4.5 mile walk there and finally successful. We were able to get inside the cathedral and appreciate the beauty and be amazed by the artistry and age.

    We lit 4 candles in honor of my dad, my in-laws and my sister-in-law, Sharon with prayers for each of them. We toured the cathedral and saw Tomb of Saint James’ remains.

    Had a wonderful afternoon with Jayme after she and Rich attended Mass. we celebrated with a bottle of bubbly and yummy snacks.

    Tomorrow Kenny and I head to Barcelona. It will not be the same without all my travel companions. I so appreciate the time we’ve been together and all that we have shared. An unforgettable adventure. Thank you ❤️
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  • Day 36

    Day 33 - The end of a journey?

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    “It is good to have an end to journey towards; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”—-Ursula K. Le Guin

    Today , at 10:30a Santiago time, I completed my Camino. However, they say the real Camino begins when you get home. Time will tell, but I have a feeling they are right.

    I left the Aubergue early this morning and took my time even stopping a few times for a cappuccino. I guess I wanted to prolong the journey. I was surprised I didn’t see many pilgrims on the path; perhaps they all decided to sleep in.

    Arriving in front of the Cathedral was a feeling I can’t explain. I’m 70 freakin’ years old and I did it! I walked from Lisbon to Santiago! The tears flowed and I tried to hold them back as I asked a stranger to take my photo. I connected with people from all around the world. Some just exchanging polite pleasantries and others having deep, meaningful conversations. I witnessed humanity at its finest. I wish more people would travel and really connect with other cultures; perhaps then we could achieve peace on earth.

    I went to mass and was surprised and excited when they used the Botafumeiro, which is not always the case. It was just like in the movie The Way. I’ve attached a video.

    The ‘Botafumeiro’ is the famous giant thurible or censer in the Santiago de Compostela cathedral. It has been used since the Middle Ages, originally to clean the air when crowds of pilgrims, having completed the Camino de Santiago, arrived in Santiago de Compostela after their long journey

    The current ‘Botafumeiro’ dates back to 1851, and it’s made of silver-plated brass, weighing 53kgs when empty and up to 10 kgs more when full. Eight men, called ‘Tiraboleiros’, are required to operate the ‘Botafumeiro’. It was quite the sight!

    Afterwards I received my official compostela and then met my friends, the Genovese gang to celebrate.

    This afternoon, after a short nap, I also went thru Santiago’s Holy Door which is open only during Jubilee years and received an additional, special, compostela. As I was leaving the church bells were ringing throughout the city. A new Pope had been selected, an American Pope! The Catholics I spoke to were quite happy with the choice.

    Then this evening I found the perfect restaurant to have a celebratory dinner for one, the name of the restaurant was ‘Restaurant San Jaime’. I decided to refrain from telling them they spelled Jayme wrong. The food was excellent, worth every euro.

    Tomorrow Rich, Arlene, and I have foot massages booked. We will explore the city some more before we go our separate ways: me to Madrid then home and they to Paris.

    Thank you for following my journey!
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  • Day 17–20

    Made it to Santiago!

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Easy trek into Santiago today less than 5 miles from our apartment. I was surprised with so many pilgrims in route with us and how populated the center was. A very warm day and as excited to get to the finish line. The cathedral was incredible and massive!! The grounds were clean and well populated and saw few tour groups and kids school trips. Such a feeling of celebration and I was asked often to take group photos.

    We were able to reunite with Jayme for dinner tonight who started this pilgrimage with Arlene back in Lisbon.

    It has been a great experience and one I’m very proud of. I feel blessed to spend these weeks with my family and honestly impressed with my physical and mental strength. Still dealing with this cold and hoping for some slower days to recoup.

    Arlene, Rich, Kenny and I are staying an extra night in Santiago tomorrow night. Noelle leaves in the morning to Fisterra and Arlene and Rich leave Friday to Paris and Kenny and I leave Friday to Barcelona for a few days. It has been wonderful to all be together for this journey. ❤️
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  • Day 35

    Day 32 - Love, Hope, & Protection

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    “Those we love don’t go away. They walk beside us every day. Unseen, unheard, but always near. Still loved, still”― Alex MacLean

    I arrived in O Milladoiro this afternoon; I’m just a few short miles from Santiago and will complete my journey tomorrow.

    When I left the comforts of my home, I carried with me tokens of love, hope, and protection. LOVE: my parents’ cremation tags; I wanted to have them in some way accompany me on this journey. HOPE: my peace sign; a visual prayer for the world and my children. PROTECTION: While not catholic a dear friend gave me a rosary blessed by the late pope to protect me on my journey; it did its job Paul, thank you.

    This has been quite the journey and I have met so many wonderful people from different countries and walks of life. This morning I ran into Dorka from Hungary, who I shared some wine with last night. She said she made some special bracelets to give out to people she met on the Camino and gave me one. What a lovely gesture. I’ve attached a photo of it and you’ll also notice how dark my hands are. I have a 3-tier farmers tan: my hands are very dark, the forearms a little lighter tan, and the upper part of my arms are pale 🤣🤣🤣

    Today my friends Arlene, Rich, Deb, Kenny, and Noel made it to Santiago. However, their apartment for the night is in the town I’m in so we all went out to dinner. It was great catching up and sharing our stories since we diverged on different paths out of Porto (they did the Coastal and Spiritual while I stayed on the Central route).

    Tomorrow the journey will end, but I will spend Thursday and Friday in Santiago. Saturday I fly to Madrid and then I fly home on Sunday.
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  • Day 16–18

    In O Milladoiro now

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Short walk from port of Vilanova this morning to 2 hour boat ride transfer to Padron, another old town with historic sites. It was quite chilly and I wondered why my backpack was lighter today and realized I was wearing 6 layered tops and still cold!!

    Kenny, Arlene and I walked 9 miles today along countryside, beautiful maze like town, highways and hills and weather did warm up and was able to shed several layers. We were looking for a taxi towards the end and Kenny found one which saved us last 2 mile. I’m still fighting this cold and Arlene and Kenny now are sick so we were thankful to get here and take a nap.

    Had a small mishap where Arlene left her cell phone in taxi and by sheer luck and perseverance we were able to reunite her with it. We say The Camino provides and it did for us today.

    Noelle found this lovely 3 bedroom apartment in town and were able to pick up pizza, calzones and salad for dinner and treat of ice cream for dessert.

    Easy day tomorrow as we are less than 5 miles to Santiago where we will enjoy the day leisurely and hope for extra rest. What a journey!!
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  • Day 34

    Day 31 - Laurent continues!

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    “It's funny how, in this journey of life, even though we may begin at different times and places, our paths cross with others so that we may share our love, compassion, observations, and hope.” ― Steve Maraboli

    Today I went from Pontecesures to A Escravitude; it wasn’t the prettiest walk. Much of it followed a busy road but there were some small quaint villages.

    Outside of Padrón I stopped at a cafe for a morning cappuccino and who should be there? But Laurent and his family. Last I saw Laurent he told me he had to quit the Camino because of a bad fall in the shower and his family would continue on without him. But it appears his family had a ‘no man left behind attitude’ and after a day’s rest, convinced Laurent to keep on the journey; that they would go slower. That it was important to them to all finish together. Such support! And I know that even though Laurent had done other Caminos that this one was special to him because he was doing it with his family.

    At lunch I met an older woman, perhaps in her 80’s, who was also doing shorter walks this last week. Like me, she is walking to O Milladoiro tomorrow which then will give her a very short walk into Santiago on Thursday.

    The Aubergue I am at tonight is very modern and I did upgrade to have a private room and bath. There were no restaurants around so I had a salad that the kitchen offered for sale and shared some wine with Dorka, a young lady from Hungary. She also is stretching out these last few days and plans to do the short walk on Thursday to Santiago.

    It’s hard to believe I’ve been walking for a month and 1 day! It’s been quite the experience: Physically, mentally, and emotionally challenging. I am so happy with my choice to do the Camino.
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  • Day 38

    A Peña and Piaxe

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    A big name for a small town a third of the way to Finisterre.

    After saying my goodbyes over a cafeteria breakfast in the basement of our VAST former seminary albergue, I headed out. Sad to say goodbye, thrilled to be wrapping up this Camino with a few solo days. Ending it like I started. The time alone felt really good, spiritually and also, I’m an introvert! That was a LOT of social connection for me!

    Today for the first time I saw roses! It was late in their season last time but I still saw, and photographed so many! I love them and was happy to get to say hi to some before leaving Spain.

    The last hour of my walk was…exciting? There had been rumblings and threatening skies, and then the storm arrived. It wasn’t that it lasted so long or dumped so much rain on me. It was that for a little while it was Right Over me! Like, flash-BANG! The first time that happened I’ll admit it - I screamed a little. The next few times I hunched my shoulders every time the lightning flashed. Because that’s gonna keep me alive, right? Tall trees on both sides of a narrow trail. Was that good because I wasn’t the tall object, or bad because….i don’t know. I couldn’t remember my lightning safety! I think make yourself small, just your feet on the ground, but I couldn’t get myself to do it. Just scurried along, praying manically. And, obviously, was just fine. Arrived at my albergue very shortly thereafter. Phew!

    Now I’m parked in a two-bunk room with two older French guys and a younger guy from…Croatia I think. One of whom keeps shutting the window. We are in for a needlessly stuffy night, I think. But day after tomorrow - the ocean!!
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  • Day 30

    Santiago de Compostela

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Spent 3 days here to explore the many historical and religious sights. Also, to rest our weary feet!!

    The weather was a mixture of 30-minute spells of hot sunshine, 30 mins of drizzle or thunder, lightning, and torrential rain. We got it all!!

    The queue to get into the cathedral was at least a 2 or 3 hour wait. We decided to circumnavigate this by signing up for a tour of both the museum and cathedral, which gave us a specific time to get in, with NO queuing 😁

    Tour was excellent, loads of info on the relics and history via the museum artefacts. The cathedral was packed with people waiting for mass to start and also pilgrims giving thanks. The emotion emanating from the crowds was infectious, and we became quite emotional ourselves. We lit candles for our loved ones.

    The whole city, built from granite stone in baroc style, is steeped in history. Every corner you turn, you are met with beautiful, grandiose buildings that have been here for 100s of years and are likely to be here for 100s to come.

    As expected, it is packed with pilgrims from all over the world. New ones arriving daily, replacing those returning home. Whenever we sat with a drink, whether coffee or a beer, we chatted with somebody new who was keen to ask about our travels and share their own stories with us.

    On Sunday, locals and their families were all out in force, taking in the sunshine and eating/drinking alongside the pilgrims (until the next rainstorm when everyone ran for cover!).

    An experience difficult to describe but wonderful to be part of.
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  • Day 37

    Santiago!

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    I’m here! After a rainy start it mostly stopped raining, at least until after we had arrived and soaked up the moment. The walk in was nice, and I got to reconnect with Belinda and her daughter, who I had not seen in some time. We were all so pleased! They had a much more apocalyptic experience of the power outage than we did. Lucky us!

    Walking into Santiago brings this power surge of excitement. All these people flooding in after having walked anywhere from five days to five or more weeks. It’s crackling with energy!

    For me, the feeling of arrival comes as I walk through the tunnel/portal where there is always someone playing bagpipes. I so love bagpipes!

    After that there is celebratory milling in the square in front of the Cathedral, then the process of getting your Compostela, then finding a cafe where you can sit, eat, drink, and watch others stream through, greeting fellow walkers who you recognize. So fun! Time to decompress.

    I took some time after that to go to the cathedral. I explored it pretty well last time. I viewed the relics, hugged the statue, attended Mass. This time all I really wanted to do was revisit the beautiful side chapel where my last Camino was capped off in the deepest way. I found it, slipped inside and sat down, and I’m not kidding, it felt as if I walked all the way across Spain just to sit exactly there. So good. Tears? Yes.

    Then we capped off the night addressing an emergency! Morne’ realized he had left the tube holding his (and my) Compostela at a coffee shop we had all stopped at. Alejandro called them. Yes, it’s there! And they’re closing in 15 minutes! Picture three pilgrims sacked out on their beds suddenly levering off those beds, throwing damp sneakers back on and flying up the hill (s) to retrieve those documents. We were impressive! And successful. Phew.

    Tomorrow morning I start walking to Finisterre.
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  • Day 11

    Day 11 Angueira to Santiago, 17 km

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It was an excellent day! Woke up to fog and drizzle after a night with some serious snoring! Somehow I actually slept through a lot of it!

    Fresh orange juice, yoghurt, toast or tiny packaged croissants for breakfast at the albergue.

    Quiet morning. No big groups. Clouds hanging low over the hills. For the last stage before Santiago, this walk was remarkably rural and pleasant. Certainly the best of the three ways into the city I have taken.

    Nothing physical was bugging me, it was not raining. It wasn’t super hot. It was another day with a lot of cats. And two musicians. A guy plying electric piano at one point and a guy playing guitar and singing. Guitar guy was stationed under a bridge. A few short conversations while walking, much easier now that people are not wearing their hoods up.

    There was one coffee stop about 7 km out and then I followed that with a stop at a pastelleria and another at a panaderia.

    Super easy entrance to the city. At one point there is a choice of two routes. Who knew? I went left and was, all of a sudden, right into the city.

    When I got Santiago I walked into the square in front of the cathedral and went straight to the spot when I had sat for a while last time. Three of the people from last night’s albergue were sitting right there! Literally in the same spot. That’s a very camino thing.

    Before I came to my room I went for a clara and then for fancy coffee. The room itself is in a hostal on the west side of the old city. Great room! It’s purple and has an amazing view of the cathedral. I think @SabsP has stayed here too before.

    I wasn’t going to get a compostelle (certificate), but I did. It took about two minutes. And when I was walking out of the pilgrim’s office, somebody called my name, and it was Jordan the young woman from Toronto I had met a little while back. We made plans to have dinner together after the mass.

    The pope died today and everyone assumed the butafumeiro would swing at all the masses today. But no, it did not! The evening mass was packed and freezing. There was definitely mention of the pope, but I could not follow. I always sit on the sides and there are no speakers there so it’s impossible to hear. There was a choir today, which I have not seen before. And the person doing the solo singing was not a nun, as had been the case before, but a woman who was wearing some kind of long red robe.

    Met up with Jordan and two Scottish women, Hannah and Grace, and ZaZa from Germany for dinner. We went to Paradiso cafeteria. Very good vibe. Okay food. It was a lot of fun.

    And that’s it for the short version of the Camino Portuguese.
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