Spain Urdániz

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  • Day 3–4

    Roncesvalles to Akerreta

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Well, today was a great day. I had long periods of drizzly rain during the morning interspersed with short periods of said rain dripping off the trees. But, by noon it had cleared to overcast and I could focus on the technically difficult descent into Zubiri.

    Following yesterday’s events, I was interested to see how I would go today. Happy to report that I found my mojo, my timing and pace were sound, and I was enjoying the countryside, the animals, the birds and having occasional conversations with fellow pilgrims. But more of that later.

    I want to address two things. First, I want to say a heartfelt “thank-you” to those of you following along and making comments. It makes me feel as though y’all are along for the ride.

    Second, I want to go back to the ‘event’ of yesterday. Last night I had a laugh about everything that transpired and today I spoke with two people who had been in exactly the same predicament as me with the wind. That made me feel better. I also want to acknowledge the kindness of the others involved and I hope to see them again and shout them a beer, or three. Finally, my Spanish friend’s sense of humour that missed the mark with me had as little to do with his story as it had to do with my poor command of the Spanish language. My language skills aren’t great but I’m trying and getting better. Yesterday’s situation was all down to me and I own it.

    Now, to today. One of the issues yesterday was my lack of energy when I needed it most. I had a meagre breakfast which did me no good at all and so from now on I’ll be loading up. Added to that was the fact that the food van that I had been heading for happened to pack up and drive back down the hill about five minutes before I would have arrived. That didn’t help but, again, my fault. Today I had a good brekky and it showed.

    The walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri wasn’t too bad. There were a couple of steep pinches, followed by tricky descents. The last one into Zubiri is particularly dangerous because of the shale outcrops sticking up in the middle of the path. However, everything worked out and I managed it all without any damage. I managed to get to know Dieter from Germany, Andrew from Perth, the Hutchison family from Perth again, Karen from Adelaide, and a couple of others along the way.

    The accommodation tonight is at the Hotel Akerreta which is about six or eight kms past Zubiri. It is one of my favourite stops on the Camino and Joseph, the owner, is a proud Basque man whose independence and pride I relate to. Anyway, instead of spending a couple of hours walking here, Peter and I decided on a short taxi ride so that we could spend that time enjoying our accomm – and a quiet G&T.

    And so here we are, looking forward to a short fifteen kms into Pamplona tomorrow. Pamplona is a great city and it should be buzzing with Easter celebrations.

    Stay well penguins,

    Buen Camino

    Distance today: 21.7 kms to Zubiri
    Total distance travelled so far: 49.4 kms

    Click here to see Efren Gonzalez’ video of today’s leg.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJB7iSQXQmM&amp…
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  • Day 2–3

    St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    So an Irishman, a Spaniard, two French men and a French woman take shelter in a rescue hut on the Camino on the trail over the Pyrenees. It’s not raining or snowing but the wind which was supposed to gust to around 50kph is now blowing constantly at around 85/90kph.

    As they stand at the doorway and debate what to do, an Australian who is bent at ninety-degrees into the wind, and has his walking poles ‘lefty’ and ‘righty’ firmly planted in the ground, slowly appears into their field of view as he is blown backwards by the wind – this isn’t the first time it had happened today, and nor would it be the last. The Irishman and the Spaniard quickly race out and drag the Australian into the hut with them. Six people are now crammed into a small space and the Spaniard starts making jokes that only he can understand, and then laughing raucously at his isolated sense of humour. The Irishman tilts his head to one side, starts nodding, knits his brow, and asks the Australian: “are you OK?” One of the French guys who looks to be about 30+ pulls out some food from his pack and urges the Australian to take it. The Australian looks at the vacuum pack that is given to him and recognises it as having the same pureed contents that his Grandchildren are fond of. He accepts it gratefully and starts sucking. The Australian’s humiliation is complete.

    Man, what a day. It started out with perfect weather and I was making good time until the winds started. I’d been enjoying the scenery and making contacts along the way but then nature conspired to put a spanner in the works. It resulted in me experiencing probably the hardest physical challenge that I’ve ever had to face. And another thing, while we’re on it. Just two years ago, I was the one asking others if they were OK. It happened to me three times today! I’m going to give it another few days before I decide whether this is a trend or an outlier but my confidence is shaky.

    On the positive side, I made it through the hardest day on the Camino Frances (in my opinion), I saw free range horses with bells around their necks grazing and ignoring the weather, saw mares nursing their foals, I made some good friends that I hope to see more of along The Way, the Pilgrim’s meal tonight was simple but fabulous, and the accommodation here at Roncesvalles is really comfortable. Speaking of which, I overheard the Receptionist here, telling someone who was hoping against hope, that all the hotels and the huge alburgue (hostel) here at Roncesvalles are full. Made me feel good about having booked all my accomm ahead of time.

    Tomorrow, I’m off to Akeretta and one of my favourite Camino stops. For those of you who have watched the original movie The Way, you’ll remember the courtyard dinner scene early in the movie where Michael Sheen starts arguing with everyone. Same hotel, and Joseph, the innkeeper, makes a fine beef stew.

    From today’s Efren Gonzalez video, you can see that Efren’s and my experience on this leg were quite different.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7q6uCulN8&amp…

    Distance today: 27.7 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 27.7 kms

    Buen Camino
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  • Day 11

    More of Pamplona

    April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Another day to chill and rest my foot, although we ended up walking almost 10 km.
    Lots of tourists in town because of the long weekend.
    We have a room facing one the busiest narrow streets and the noise coming from the bars stopped at 7:00 am this morning!!!
    By 11:00 am. People were out again and drinking beer and wine while we were having our coffees!

    We walked around this beautiful city surrounded by amazingly landscaped parks.

    We’ll leave at 7 am tomorrow to return to our Camino.
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  • Day 11–13

    Larrasoana to Pamplona

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Touring amid the Camino

    We thought today was going to be an easy day, but we ended up walking 23 km.
    We stopped at a medical center when arriving in Pamplona and the injury is not bad enough to send me home quite yet.
    We checked in at the hotel, grab some lunch, took a bus to get some rain gear at a sports store, took a 3 hour walking tour of the city, and then went for some pinchos, beer, and sangria (following the doctor’s order… and Andy’s).
    It is amazing how we all stay at different albergues, we all start at different times and yet, we get bumping into each other along the way. It is hard to explain but it keeps happening!!!!
    We may lose contact with the known crowd though, since we have decided to stay one more night in Pamplona.

    Pamplona: stay at Casa Otano
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  • Day 9–10

    Burguete to Larrasoana

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Tough day

    We started relatively early, with the church bell striking 7. The rain was still coming down heavy enough that our boots got wet almost immediately.
    No more than half an hour into our walk, we came across a stream with water overflowing the cement steps. I slipped and fell face down. It must have been some scene!
    As soon as Eric pulled me out, I realized I had sprained my right ankle. But what to do and where to go? Nowhere except forward. So, with my clothes soaking wet, my feet swimming in water inside my boots, and increasing pain, we pushed forward the 25 km we needed to cover to get to Larrasoana, where we would spend the night. I tried hard not to think about my foot and instead, made conversation with other pilgrims along the way.
    Tonight we had a lovely communal dinner and played cards.
    We have planed to spend the next two nights in Pamplona, hoping that my foot will feel better.
    But I will still have to cover the 15 km to get there.

    Larrasoana: Stayed at Albergue San Nicolas.
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  • Day 3

    Blick zurück …

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    …auf die Pyrenäen. Leider war gestern alles Wolken verhangen. Blick nach vorn: Rucksack an Rucksack. Grob überschlagen circa 350 Pilger auf einer Tagesetappe und das schon zum Saisonbeginn. Um ein bisschen meditativ unterwegs zu sein, lange schlafen und erst nach der Horde starten, die meist schon ab 6:00 Uhr auf dem Camino unterwegs ist.

    Zum Nachwandern:
    https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2143493382?re…
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  • Day 4

    Into Zubiri

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    This was my longest day walking so far in my life. My Fitbit says 29km, but the guide says it wasn’t that long. 39,000 steps! How There were a couple missteps that caused extra distance. But it doesn’t really add up.

    Walking time 8.5 HOURS (cuz I’m slow) but that does include a bunch of breaks.

    On the last bit, there is a more dangerous stretch resembling dragons teeth, formed by flysch (look it up, rock layers that are pretty crazy looking and a bit tough to walk on.) Also some slippery mud.

    Made it to Casa Suseia albergue where she served a delicious dinner.
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  • Day 9

    Camino Day 5-Zubiri to Pamplona (Part 1)

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Today was the longest day so far! Another day filled with amazing history and beauty. The terrain was grueling at times with up to 20% grades to navigate up and down. The Camino has proven to be day after day of LEG/GLUTE workout day! I'm doing bicep curls and presses with my backpack at the end of each day to hopefully keep my arms as strong as my legs will soon be! 💪🏻🦵🏼Read more

  • Day 9

    Camino Day 5-Zubiri to Pamplona (part 2)

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Part 1 & 2 because I walked a total of 17.25 miles today and took a LOT of photos! As with all the days before, the area is rich in historical buildings and bridges dating back to Roman times. The views were amazing. Pamplona was very crowded with hustle and bustle, which was a bit overwhelming. After checking into my room, I was simply too tired to go find a place to eat, so I walked one block to a grocery store... deciding that some meat, cheese, and fruit would be enough sustenance. I also stopped at the farmacia and got bath salts/ bubbles since my room had a huge tub in it. It was a perfect end to a physically demanding day. 💜Read more

  • Day 8

    Camino Day 4- Bizkarrete to Zubiri

    April 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    As I planned and prepped for my Camino, I was well educated on the risks and knew there were likely to be days less than perfect. Today was one of those days. When I woke, my ankle was a little swollen and starting to bruise. 🥺 Knowing that today's planned walk included a very steep, very rocky descent into Zubiri, combined with a text message from John and Jen, warning of how treacherous it was, I made the tough decision to taxi ahead to Zubiri in order to prevent further injury. I was disappointed that I would miss the historical sights that I knew existed on this stretch of the Camino, but I also knew it was for the best. The photos for today are of the inn and surrounding area of Bizkarrete-Gerendiain as I was leaving, and the rest of the afternoon in Zubiri. I thoroughly enjoyed soaking my feet in the River Arga... the cold water provided healing for my ankle, and the beauty and charm of this village provided energy for my weary body.Read more

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