Spain Esteribar

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  • Day 3–4

    Roncesvalles to Akerreta

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Well, today was a great day. I had long periods of drizzly rain during the morning interspersed with short periods of said rain dripping off the trees. But, by noon it had cleared to overcast and I could focus on the technically difficult descent into Zubiri.

    Following yesterday’s events, I was interested to see how I would go today. Happy to report that I found my mojo, my timing and pace were sound, and I was enjoying the countryside, the animals, the birds and having occasional conversations with fellow pilgrims. But more of that later.

    I want to address two things. First, I want to say a heartfelt “thank-you” to those of you following along and making comments. It makes me feel as though y’all are along for the ride.

    Second, I want to go back to the ‘event’ of yesterday. Last night I had a laugh about everything that transpired and today I spoke with two people who had been in exactly the same predicament as me with the wind. That made me feel better. I also want to acknowledge the kindness of the others involved and I hope to see them again and shout them a beer, or three. Finally, my Spanish friend’s sense of humour that missed the mark with me had as little to do with his story as it had to do with my poor command of the Spanish language. My language skills aren’t great but I’m trying and getting better. Yesterday’s situation was all down to me and I own it.

    Now, to today. One of the issues yesterday was my lack of energy when I needed it most. I had a meagre breakfast which did me no good at all and so from now on I’ll be loading up. Added to that was the fact that the food van that I had been heading for happened to pack up and drive back down the hill about five minutes before I would have arrived. That didn’t help but, again, my fault. Today I had a good brekky and it showed.

    The walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri wasn’t too bad. There were a couple of steep pinches, followed by tricky descents. The last one into Zubiri is particularly dangerous because of the shale outcrops sticking up in the middle of the path. However, everything worked out and I managed it all without any damage. I managed to get to know Dieter from Germany, Andrew from Perth, the Hutchison family from Perth again, Karen from Adelaide, and a couple of others along the way.

    The accommodation tonight is at the Hotel Akerreta which is about six or eight kms past Zubiri. It is one of my favourite stops on the Camino and Joseph, the owner, is a proud Basque man whose independence and pride I relate to. Anyway, instead of spending a couple of hours walking here, Peter and I decided on a short taxi ride so that we could spend that time enjoying our accomm – and a quiet G&T.

    And so here we are, looking forward to a short fifteen kms into Pamplona tomorrow. Pamplona is a great city and it should be buzzing with Easter celebrations.

    Stay well penguins,

    Buen Camino

    Distance today: 21.7 kms to Zubiri
    Total distance travelled so far: 49.4 kms

    Click here to see Efren Gonzalez’ video of today’s leg.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJB7iSQXQmM&amp…
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  • Day 9–10

    Burguete to Larrasoana

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Tough day

    We started relatively early, with the church bell striking 7. The rain was still coming down heavy enough that our boots got wet almost immediately.
    No more than half an hour into our walk, we came across a stream with water overflowing the cement steps. I slipped and fell face down. It must have been some scene!
    As soon as Eric pulled me out, I realized I had sprained my right ankle. But what to do and where to go? Nowhere except forward. So, with my clothes soaking wet, my feet swimming in water inside my boots, and increasing pain, we pushed forward the 25 km we needed to cover to get to Larrasoana, where we would spend the night. I tried hard not to think about my foot and instead, made conversation with other pilgrims along the way.
    Tonight we had a lovely communal dinner and played cards.
    We have planed to spend the next two nights in Pamplona, hoping that my foot will feel better.
    But I will still have to cover the 15 km to get there.

    Larrasoana: Stayed at Albergue San Nicolas.
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  • Day 4

    Verlaufen…

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    …absolut nicht möglich auf dem Camino Francés. Die Wege sind zu 90% top ausgebaut und für jeden gut zu wandern. Und zur Not, ist immer noch das Wanderer-Survival-Package dabei.

    Zum Nachwandern:
    https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2143494863?re…
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  • Day 5

    The many types of paths

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    This path is always changing. It seems like every couple minutes the surface or the environment will change and usually beautiful.

    The surface I’m walking on can be several different types of mud, not so fun. Or could be dry dirt or it could be several types of crushed tiny, sandy decomposed granite, small gravel. It can be more normal gravel or large gravel, which is a little harder to walk on or very large rocks. Also several types of paved trail, asphalt not so much yet which is good. But a type of concrete or tile-ish thing made from slate maybe And all of these can be interspersed with puddles. You have to go around and of course there’s the dragons teeth flyshe that was more prevalent yesterday.

    All the while either walking through a beautiful meadow or a forest or a dark covered woods or next to horse pastures with little foals that appear to have been born very recently. Lots and lots of birds making different calls that I have never heard in California. Including cuckoo’s!

    And today for sure, a babbling, tiny brook or a creek or a small river every couple minutes.

    It’s just cool how it’s always changing.

    I know this won’t last, because the “Meseta” will be more of the same thing every day apparently. But it’s all good.

    Bonus foal video. So cute!!
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  • Day 6

    Burgete to Larrasoana

    August 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today ended up a longer day than expected. We did take our time but ended up walking later in the afternoon, plus, it was warmer today.
    Had a good walk today with people we met in Borda. Stopped for a snack, then walked with them for a while catching up on things since we saw them last.

    We grabbed some lunch, then put our feet in the river in Zuburi, it felt awesome. We then walked the rest of the way to our albergue, San Nicolas in Larrasoana. Had a nice communal dinner with other pilgrims staying here.

    By the end of the day, we put in 16 miles, and my legs and feet feel it, but well worth the effort for a day like today.
    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 5

    Day 4: Bergette to Larrasoana

    May 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Stayed in a sweet, quiet hotel in the town of Bergette and had a good nights sleep before hiking 15 miles to Larasoara. So many hills, such beautiful scenery. The descent into the town of Zouberi was long, rocky. Everyone cheered when we reached flat ground. Surprised to find our confirmed reservation at Hotel San Nicholas canceled due to their mistake. Staying in municipal albergue. I can only laugh. See pic.Read more

  • Day 10

    Larrasoana

    May 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 3 Larrasoana Spain
    Distance from Burguete to Larrasoana 24kms

    Leaving Burguete in the rain this morning gave us the opportunity to put our ponchos to the test. Walked through mud and over slippery downhill rocky paths being extra careful to avoid injury. We passed a 12th Century Monastery walked over roman bridges and navigated tricky terrain which took us nearly 8 hours to walk 24kms to arrive at our accommodation for the night. Staying at a lovely albergue had a delicious pilgrim 3 course dinner and looking forward to the walk into Pamplona tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 4

    Day 2 - Burguete to Larrasoana

    April 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Burguete to Espinal to Biskarret to Zubiri to Larrasoano. Today was a day of “rolling” hills - and more rain. Calling these hills rolling is like calling a house “quaint.” It requires a lot of work. While not as steep, the paths we climbed up and down were pure rock - smooth rock sheets, rocks jutting out of the ground in long lines, and small chunks of- with fun mud and water puddles in between. Made for some slow and careful stepping! And a few times we had no choice but to wade ankle deep through water and/or mud. But the fog was mostly gone so we could see the countryside, which was beautiful, and we went through a handful of cute towns. All of the houses in these little towns are beautiful, old and perfectly maintained. Lots of horses and sheep, and since they roam free, lots of their poop to step around in a few spots. Stopped for breakfast after 4 miles and had my first tortilla de patates, a Spanish omelet/quiche with potatoes and onions - really delicious. Had a nice communal dinner at my albergue, and was given a nice little speech about what I’ll learn on the Camino by the owner of a grocery store I went to for road snacks tomorrow. How to live in the moment, that “stuff” isn’t necessary and whatever lesson my heart wants me to learn. He then gave me a bar of chocolate, so he’s my favorite person on this trip.

    Pictures in order: church with these funky trees seen everywhere; standard house door with thistles for protection and good luck; the Pyrenees in the distance; one of several pedestrian bridges I crossed; tortilla de patates and cafe con leche; one of the less rocky paths climbed; spring mountain flowers; part of the Puente de rabias bridge into Zubiri (legend says you walk your animals across 3x to protect them from rabies); the elevation maps for yesterday and today; mural in my albergue showing I’ll walk through 138 towns/cities on the Camino, excluding all the little hamlets. Accidentally stopped vs paused my tracker when I took a lunch break, but 2/3rds of the route I walked today
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  • Day 3

    Zubiri/Urdániz

    April 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Betsy is gone! She took a taxi back to Saint Jean this morning and will take the train back to London tomorrow. It’s a bummer she couldn’t have done more with me, but I’m letting the Camino come to me, unexpected turns and all! I walked almost the whole day with a friend I met back in the Bayonne train station, Peyton from Houston, who is walking after quitting his consulting job. We met up with Sebastian from Poland who just quit his job in IT. Sebastian heard about the Camino from a friend ten years ago, bought a pack and decided to go. But it took him ten years to finally find the time. Our day was 100x easier than yesterday and even though it rained, we were not too cold. The views of the Pyrenees foothills were incredible; no pictures can do it justice. My albergue for the evening is much smaller than last night and I’m looking forward to a dinner with other pilgrims. Funny enough, my bunk mates for tonight were one bunk away from me at last night’s hostel (Ashley and Eric from Canada). Being on my own has made me even more excited about meeting others and hearing their stories!Read more

  • Day 15

    Day 15 Roncesvalles to Larrasoana, 27 km

    October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Mostly photos again tonight.

    A good day’s walking, mostly ‘tranquille’ but with a tricky steep 4km descent into Zubiri on loose rocks, which my right knee is not happy about. 🥺

    Excellent Albergue Saint Nicolas- United Nations of pilgrims at dinner tonight - Italian, Austrian, American, South Korean, Spanish and, of course, me and The French.

    Tomorrow, a short walk to Pamplona. 😎
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