Tanzania Lushoto

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  • Day 113

    Pushing rains uphill

    April 8, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Again I climb into the Usambara mountains and join two other overlanding Germans, Jutta and Gerd, in Lushoto at the Paradise Eco Lodge where we are hosted by Uwe from Germany who is living here with his Tanzanian wife, 3 kids and his mom. With me I bring rain for the next three days.

    Jutta and Gerd are travelling in their mobile home, an old Bundeswehr Kategorie-1 4x4 truck (13-litre air-cooled V8 diesel), through the world without any time schedule and within the last 4-5 years they managed to get from Germany around the Arabic peninsula not further than down to here. Wonderful! :-D They tell me many valuable things about the coming countries up north on my planned route and also motivate me to think about Oman. I enjoy family breakfasts, lunches and dinners and finally continue "back home" to Mambo View Point over Easter.

    Check out Jutta's and Gerd's website: https://im-kat-zuhause.jimdofree.com
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  • Day 96

    Cheesus!

    March 22, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Brown, heavy bread, jucy avocado, aromatic tomatoes, citronpeppar from Sweden, locally made rosmary gouda and passion fruit jam, accompanied with Tanzanian freshly ground coffee from fincas south of Kilimanjaro =)

    Apart from calling me "Jesus!" all the time, since yesterday the young generation sympathizes with the new nickname "Corona!" for all non-locals. From heaven to hell in one day! -_-
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  • Day 24

    Heute Fahrt vom Tal in die Usambraberge

    December 15, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Immer das gleiche, jeden Abend in der Runde: schlafen wir länger? Ja, nein vielleicht und am Ende: "machen wir es doch einfach wie immer, dann müssen wir uns nicht umstellen" Also 6 aufstehen, 7 Frühstück und 8 Uhr losfahren!!!

    Heute in die Berge zum Irente View Lodge. In den Bergen hingen die Wolken, so war es eigentlich nicht überraschend, Sonne zwischendurch ein Regen, warten und weiter gings.
    Das letzte Stück ging über Piste, bergauf und bergab. Ich hatte die Hosen voll, dass ich gleich im Matsch liege, aber es ging alles gut!

    Ankommen bei Sonnenschein und 1Std. später wieder Regen, das wird ja lustig....
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  • Day 258

    Lushoto

    July 15, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Wir kamen früher als erwartet in Lushoto an. Anstelle der 8h Fahrt waren es glücklicherweise nur 5h. Wir nahmen uns ein Taxi zu unserer Unterkunft, welche etwas abgelegen in den Wäldern lag. Danach liefen wir in die kleine Stadt "Lushoto" und gingen dort in das fast einzige Restaurant. Danach liefen wir zurück und spielten noch ein paar Kartenspiele bevor wir ins Bett gingen. Am nächsten Morgen sollten wir um 8:00Uhr von unserem Wanderguide abgeholt werden. Gegen 8:30 Uhr trafen dann unsere zwei Guides ein. Gebucht hatten wir eine 8h Wanderung mit ca 20km. Wir wanderten zunächst durch den Regenwald, vorbei an kleinen Dörfern. Überall hörten wir nur das Wort "Mzungus" und die Kinder winkten uns glücklich zu und gaben uns "high fives". So habe ich mir afrikanische Dörfer vorgestellt. Kleine selbstgebaute Häuser in denen eine ganze Familie lebt und die Felder neben dem Haus bewirtschaftet. Ein Kind wurde vor dem Haus gerade in einer Wasserschale gewaschen. Alle waren sehr freundlich als wir ihre Häuser passierten. Wir liefen schmale Pfade, welche ich selbst nicht als Weg wahrgenommen hätte 😄
    Dann ging es steil berghoch bis wir den ersten Viewpoint erreichten. Eine unserer Guides ließ sich mit einem Motorrad hochfahren und bereitete schon unser lunch vor. Es gab Chapati (das einheimische Brot), Guacamole und ganz viel Obst 😊 Dann ging es weiter zum eigentlichen Highlight dem "Irente Viewpoint". Die Aussicht war atemberaubend 😍
    Danach mussten wir noch 1,5h zurück nach Lushoto laufen. Wir waren alle froh als wir endlich ankamen 😄
    Wir liefen direkt in das Restaurant vom Vortrag und gönnten uns erstmal einen Milkshake 😍 Nachdem Essen ging es dann mit einem Taxi heim und nach ein paar Runden Karten fielen wir ins Bett, da wir am nächsten Morgen um 5:45 Uhr von einem Taxi abgeholt und zum Busbahnhof gebracht werden. Nächstes Ziel ist Stone Town auf Sansibar😍
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  • Day 106

    Rangwi - the Convent stop

    November 18, 2024 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    There's no early start on this trip it seems. Breakfast at 8, cook lives off site. After we walked the first 2 km with the owner to his house, as we departed, it was likely it was him. The room was in need of a full rebuild and it was only the standard of the lodges I'd been paying $5 - 6 for. Throw in food and that's about $15 tops + $7 for the guide. At nearly $130 / day it wasn't great value. More good scenery though. The gardens continued right to the lunch stop the next day, around 40 km in length through the valley landscapes. At times no more than 500m in widths but often climbing the hills to expand that coverage. Around 2pm we arrived at the Nun's Convent our overnight stop, where we'd decided to push towards for a lunch stop as well, with the sky getting darker. They provided accommodation and meals to passing tourists. Nearly 70 nuns lived on site but many traveled to other districts to provide a range of educational and indoctrinational services. Catholicism is deeply entrenched in Tanzania, perhaps it's helpful. History will tell. Rangwi is a pretty small village which doesn't reflect the value of the surrounding agriculture. I'm not sure why. A quick loop around the village suggested the convent grounds were not much smaller. My legs were suitably tired so it may have been beneficial that the distances had been overstated despite my querying the advertised walking time. It was a bucket shower before dinner, a decent 20L pale of hot water supplied. To be diluted with the bucket of cold. Dinner and breakfast the next morning were hearty servings. The room temperature beer irresistible. A narrow single bed a real icon of the Catholic approach to sins of the flesh.Read more

  • Day 17–18

    Bushbaby Homestay-Rangwi sister convent

    November 18, 2024 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Wir sind schon um 8 uhr30 losgelaufen, um vielleicht dem Regen am Nachmittag zu entgehen. So trafen wir nach eine schönen Wanderung schon gegen 12 Uhr im Convent an. Der Regen kam nicht und wir verbrachten einen schönen Nachmittag im Convent. Die Schwestern waren von einer schönen friedvollen Stimmung umgeben.Read more

  • Day 16–17

    Müllers Lodge zum Bushbaby Homestay

    November 17, 2024 in Tanzania

    Heute bin ich ca. 20km gelaufen. Es ging durch Wälder, vorbei und durch. Felder, einen Regenwald. Die Täler und Berge sind mit Gemüseäckern überzogen. Leider liefen wir die letzten 2 Stunden durch Regen und kamen durchnässt im Bushbaby Homestay an. Dort wurden wir sehr nett empfangen. Der starke Kontrast zwischen den Unterkünften Müllers Lodge und Bushbaby Homestay konnte nicht stärker sein. So wie die Gastfamilie lebt, so lebt man halt in Tansania, größtenteils noch viel ärmer
    Mein Zimmer und Toiletten waren sauber. Nur die Wäsche wurde nicht trocken. Abends saß ich mit 3 deutschen Frauen und den Guides am Feuer und wärmten uns. 0
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  • Day 105

    Anmut Hotel to Malindi

    November 17, 2024 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After yesterday's 10 am start, I organised an 8.30 departure. So at 9 we set off from the hotel. The guide arrived after 8.30 and then photos needed to be taken for marketing. Africa. Starting off was a climb up the dirt road that took us into the mountain villages. A decent climb to 1900m included more chameleon and the Colobus monkeys. They are notoriously skittish and scarper rapidly through the treetops as you arrive. The other side of the climb is the fecund soil of the Lukozi valley. The market garden to the region. It supplies an area down the coast through to Dar es Salaam, maybe further. Dark mocha-coloured soils, either tilled or planted, as far as the eye can see and beyond. It was pleasantly temperate with a covering of clouds. We wound through the fields on narrow tracks. Jumping the drainage trenches and walking across the sturdier planked sections. A tea stop with a serve-yourself approach was had, the proprietor arriving well after tea was served. Back on the trail the anticipated 2nd uphill never materialized. The rain did, however. Light at first it increased in volume just as we located a sheltered lunch stop around 2 pm. We stayed put until just after 3 when it eased sufficiently for the final 45 minutes to tonight's stop at Milandi. Where the power was out for the whole village. It came back at 5. Then dissappeared at 5.20, before finally coming back for the rest of the evening.Read more

  • Day 104

    Usambara Mountains

    November 16, 2024 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Leaving the bike at the hostel in Moshi I jumped on the bus to Lushoto, heading back down the road I'd come up just 4 days previously. The bus was a fairly basic version, and I was a little cramped with a fairly solid Tanzanian mumma in the other seat. Arriving at Lushoto I was met by the guide and got some lunch with the other couple who I would be joining for tomorrow's walk. From there it was off to Amnut Lodge a 5 km motorbike ride from the village. It was a bit further out than I would normally stay but it was all part of the walking deal, organised by the hostel management. During the bus trip I'd been offerred the chance to do a single day walk and as I was there it seemed like a good opportunity. It turned out to be some of the more scenic fauna of the area.
    It became the warm up to the following day's longer journey from Lushoto to Mtae, about 60 km. Today took us through the local nature reserve and then a visit to the waterfall. I joined a French couple as part of a guided group. Originally intended as a pre Kilimanjaro prep after the biking, but weather for the next week not looking great above 3000m. Let's see what happens later this week.
    As I was getting organised for dinner the power went off. A tree had fallen on the house connection and taken the line down. Fortunately solar lighting was available. Dinner was a disappointing repeat of yesterday's meal, which was wholesome but lacked zing, and meat. I'd returned for it rather than stay in town with the day's group, after they said it was already underway. I was asleep before the ABs game. Thankfully.
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  • Day 15–16

    Lawns Hotel zur Müllers Lodge

    November 16, 2024 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Wir, mein Guide und ich,, sind um 9 Uhr losgelaufen. Ich war etwas aufgeregt, da ich nicht wusste was mich erwartet. Wie verkrafte ich die Aufstiege bei diesem Klima, wie ist der Untergrund, wie schnell läuft der Guide usw. Als wir nach ca. 3,5 Stunden in der Mullers Lodge ankamen, wusste ich, dass ich auch die drei anderen Tage schaffen werde. Und die Lodge mit dem gepflegten Garten und dem stilvollen Kaminzimmer waren der HitRead more

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