Isole Falkland Isole Falkland

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  • Giorno 16

    Falkland Islands

    4 febbraio, Isole Falkland ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    We spent 3 Feb at sea. Another restful day. Always plenty to do. Tony has been joining the pickup game of pickleball in the afternoons on Deck 11. He’s now had a few games. He’s learnt the rules by chatting to people in the line awaiting their turn to play. And tactics. Sometimes there is a very strong wind. Makes the game very interesting.
    The captain isn’t the only comedian on board. A waiter at lunch. Tony ordered a glass of prosecco. “And for you, mam?” “A glass of water please.” He just stood and looked at Ursula. No expression. For a while. No words needed. She didn’t cave in.
    In the evening we attended the Rolling Stone Lounge. Tony had been devastated to find out that the BB King bar has disappeared. This replacement has a bar and very loud music so not all bad. R&B tonight. Pretty good. They do 45 minute sessions. Afterwards Tony and Rob had a quick look (Tony) at some very modern dancing in the World Stage.
    In the pickleball queue Tony had discovered that only about 50% of stops at the Falklands actually happen. Strong winds often blow up, as the ships have to anchor out. Today (Feb 4th) we visit Port Stanley. Yesterday, 35 knots of wind. Today 10 knots. Tomorrow 35 knots. How lucky can you be?
    We need to catch a tender ashore. Finally land. Tony’s plan is to catch a shuttle bus to Gypsy Cove where we can see Magellanic and Gentoo penguins. Pub lunch then historic walk using a map available at the tourism office. Rob decides to walk to Gypsy Cove. Only 6.5 km. (Whoops, was actually 6.5 miles. He still does it.)
    The bus driver’s name was Nick. “I’m a Falkland Islander. I was 19 during the Falklands war. The Argies were planning to use the civilians as human shields. Fortunately they didn’t get a chance.”
    We were told that the Argentinians at the end surrendered very quickly. The British general walked into Stanley, went straight to the pub and ordered a pint.
    Port Stanley is VERY British. Like Gibraltar. Drive on our side of the road, British pounds, red phone and letter boxes, neat vegetable gardens. Population of the Falklands is a little over 3,000. Only a few more than that of passengers and crew onboard the Oosterdam. Trevor tells us that due to the billion or so dollars the squid fishing reaps, the Falkland Islands would have a per capita income to rival Luxembourg and United Arab Emirates if it were a country in its own right. Public infrastructure in Stanley is excellent.
    Gypsy Cove has searingly white sand and a lovely outlook. Very few penguins. We saw a few among the bushes as we walked through the low scrub. Did a 40 minute walk along narrow paths through the scrub. Nice views of harbour and town. Shuttles back to town a bit sparse. Big crowd waiting. We used our subtle urging skills to ensure seats on the first one to arrive. Back in town and up the hill is the pub: Victory Bar. Tony gets the last table. Ursula checks the menu with our bar lady. “Fish and chips. Or chips and fish.” We go to a restaurant nearby (Groovy’s). Excruciatingly long wait for our pints and fish dishes. Passable.
    Tony gets the Town Trails map from the very helpful ladies at the Visitors Centre. We choose the shorter 4km History Walk. Not far into the walk it starts to rain. Stanley has over 250 rain days each year. Only light so we keep going. May not ever return here. The first part of the walk takes us through the back streets of town. We marvel at the very productive vegetable gardens. Many tunnel houses. Most gardens are extremely neat. A highlight was the Whalebone display. We see quite a few school kids going home. We pass the large Community School buildings. It has a big indoor swimming pool. Finally we turn down to the waterfront for the return to town. We pass many monuments and sights. Quick visit to the Dockyard Museum. Then a relaxing tender ride back to Oosterdam.
    Afterwards we discovered that on a previous cruise the weather blew up (to 60 knots), while the passengers were ashore. The ship had to put to sea. Couldn’t return for 3 days. Passengers were somehow accommodated in the town. We were lucky.
    Tonight on the World Stage we saw comedian Geoff Boyz. His best joke involved a 50th birthday skydive in Australia. Hilarious. 45 minutes of laughter is excellent relief from the pressures of this cruising life!!
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  • Giorno 16

    Nachschlag Rockhoppers und so😉

    30 marzo 2024, Isole Falkland ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Man kann nie genug Rockhopper Pinguine und Albatrosse angucken😉🤗

    Die Albatross Jungen sind zum Großteil im Dezember geschlüpft und werde frühestens Ende April flügge,gefüttert werden sie 1-2x pro Woche,ansonsten sitzen die da so rum trainieren die Flügel und warten auf Futter ihrer Eltern.

    Die Caracaras, ein Raubvogel , so eine Mischung aus Rabe /Krähe und Jungsdler wie sage 😉,sind immer auf Beute aus.

    Wir starten am frühen Nachmittag wieder,es geht weiter mit einem Seetag nach Puerto Madryn / Argentinien .
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  • Giorno 11

    Baia Yorke

    14 febbraio 2024, Isole Falkland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    A Baía de Yorke é um excelente local para se avistar os pinguins em seu habitat sem perturba-los. No local também pode-se observar leões marinhos e tres diferentes tipos de pinguins, incluindo o pinguim rei.Leggi altro

  • Giorno 44

    Port Stanley Falkland Islands

    23 dicembre 2023, Isole Falkland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Heute haben wir in Port Stanley auf den Falkland Inseln (britisches Überseegebiet) Halt gemacht. Da die Hafeneinfahrt zu klein/eng für unser Schiff ist, wurden wir mit den Rettungsbooten „getendert“, also vom Schiff in die Stadt gebracht, von wo aus wir auf die Wanderung zu Gipsy Cove gegangen sind. Wir waren ca. 5,5h unterwegs. Vorbei am Schiffswrack „Lady Elisabeth“ haben wir am Strand viele Pinguine beobachtet. Es war super stürmisch 🌬️.Leggi altro

  • Giorno 52

    Falkland Islands (2)

    7 marzo, Isole Falkland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Enjoyed walking in Port Stanley.
    How could I leave without buying a penguin cap.
    ポートスタンレーでの散歩を楽しみました。
    ペンギンの帽子を買わずに帰るなんて無理でした。

  • Giorno 9

    Plan B+ - Kidney Cove

    4 febbraio, Isole Falkland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Well the weather is moving eastwards from us but still the centre is before South Georgia with waves 5-6 metres so we stayed until midday at the Falklands before setting sail after lunch expecting to have some rougher seas over the next 36 - 48 hours.
    So we spent the morning at Kidney Cove - plenty of Gentoo and Magellanic penguins plus a couple more King penguins.
    The procedure for getting on the zodiacs to land is very slick - the "mudroom" is at the stern with our gear in personal lockers - wet weather gear and muck boots which we have to dip in disinfectant before and after landing. Also we keep 5m minimum from wildlife and we don't kneel, sit or put bags etc on the ground. Avian flu has reached Antarctica and has jumped from birds to mammals causing widespread wildlife deaths recently which is very sad.
    On board we have lectures every day about wildlife, photography, geology etc. Food is fantastic - both buffet and a la carte with two restaurants. And I found a guitar on board! So plenty to keep us amused for the next 2 days before reaching landfall again.
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  • Giorno 7

    Falkland Islands

    2 febbraio, Isole Falkland ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    We spent a full day and night steaming from Ushuaia to the Falkland Islands. First confirmed sighting was in 1592 and it was a base for whalers, sealers and penguin hunters over the years until in 1833 Britain claimed sovereignty (as they did). It has one settlement Stanley and continues to be a self governing Overseas Territory of the United Kingdom despite the attempted invasion by Argentina in 1982 which Maggie Thatcher put an end to (and consequently has a memorial dedicated to her in the main street). It is mainly a sheep farming economy (there are ~ 550,000 sheep on the islands - 125 per human) and now also includes tourism and sale of fishing licences (there is currently a small fleet of Taiwanese longline squid trawlers here).
    It is a rather windswept and bleak looking place but the main reason we came was to see the Magellanic penguins which we won't see after this. That and a meal of traditional British fish and chips and warm flat ale in the hotel! We got to test out our waterproof gear as well with several rain storms.
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  • Giorno 6

    Stanley, Gypsy Cove and fight with a Sea

    7 gennaio, Isole Falkland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We started the day with a Zodiac shuttle to the jetty in the harbor of Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. With a population of roughly 2,000—just over half of the entire population of this remote corner of the British Empire—Stanley feels like a small, quiet town.

    The harbor was peaceful in the early morning, but that changed quickly! The local “king of the harbor”—a 300+ kg South American sea lion—decided to claim the jetty as his own. With 180 people scheduled to land within the hour, we definitely needed the space back! After a brief standoff and some strategic water hose assistance from the port authority, we managed to reclaim the jetty.

    Our first trip of the day was to Gypsy Cove just outside Stanley, an area recently reopened to the public after the last landmine was removed from the beaches. The cove was stunning, with incredible views of 400-million-year-old sandstone formations and pristine snow-white beaches.

    We spotted an amazing variety of birds, including Magellanic Penguins, Antarctic Terns, Austral Thrushes, Crested Ducks, Flightless Steamer Ducks (ironically, they can’t fly despite the name), and Rock Shags. The highlight of the day, though, was seeing breeding Black-Crowned Night Herons. We observed both their nests with bright blue eggs and their young chicks—rare and truly beautiful birds. The dramatic landscape added to the magic, though it’s hard to capture its true essence in photos (but I’ve done my best!).

    Back in Stanley, we explored the city, visited the little but great museum where impressive stories and great humour mixed well together, and had lunch at a classic British pub. They had one draft beer (a dark ale) and one item on the menu: fish and chips. It was as traditionally British—and as disappointing—as expected (though my dear Welsh colleague Steffan would agree). After an important victory in a game of pool, we wandered through the city, picking up a few books—my favorite type of souvenir, soaked in the mix of Great Britain and the remote islands vibe.

    Walking around Stanley, reminders of the Falklands War from 42 years ago are still visible. The scars remain fresh for the local British citizens, and the sentiment toward their Argentinian neighbors is noticeably cold, even today.

    In the afternoon, we returned to the vessel and began our 2.5-day journey to South Georgia. The rest of the day was spent preparing for our visit, which involved extensive biosecurity measures. To protect South Georgia’s pristine ecosystem from invasive species, we had to thoroughly clean and vacuum every item of clothing, boots, backpacks, and other gear. It’s a detailed process but entirely worth it.

    Dinner with Steffan and the captain wrapped up the day. I forgot to take pictures of the meal, but let’s just say the food on this trip is so good that I’m definitely gaining weight!
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  • Giorno 18

    Falkland Islands 🇫🇰 - Penguin Paradise

    14 dicembre 2024, Isole Falkland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After our Antarctic adventure and a surprisingly smooth Drake Passage crossing (yes, it happened twice for us!), we arrived at the Falkland Islands – greeted by clear skies and sunshine. No rain, no wind, just perfect weather. It’s not what the Falklands are known for, but we weren’t complaining. Honestly, we didn’t expect the islands to even come close to Antarctica, but we were pleasantly proven wrong.

    We hopped off the ship via water taxi and decided to hike to Gypsy Cove. Originally, we’d dreamed of heading to Volunteer Point to see the famous king penguins, but most of the tours were sold out and cost usually around £160 per person (~190€) or if you feel like overpaying $660 (~636€) with the cruise excursion team, that dream stayed a dream. So, Gypsy Cove became Plan B.

    One thing to note about the Falklands: no public Wi-Fi. At all. Even restaurants and cafés are off the grid. The tourist info center informed us that buses to Gypsy Cove (£20 per person) wouldn’t run until 9:30 a.m., and since we are Germans and we’d landed bright and early at 8:00 a.m., we thought, “Why not walk the 12 kilometers along the coast instead?”

    Best decision ever. Just a few kilometers in, we spotted some Magellanic penguins chilling only a few meters away. 🐧 Nothing like a close encounter with penguins to keep your spirits high.

    By the time we reached Gypsy Cove, we were greeted by a picture-perfect scene: soft white sand, penguins waddling around, and dolphins leaping in the waves.

    Then came the unexpected highlight. On our way along Yorke Bay, we overheard some hikers talking about king penguins spotted nearby. Naturally, we had to check it out. After another 30 minutes of walking, we arrived behind the dunes to find colonies of gentoo penguins with their fluffy babies – and three stunning king penguins, including one awkward teenager still losing its baby feathers. It was an incredible moment, one we hadn’t even planned for.

    By the end of the day, our watch told the full story: 36,000 steps, or about 25 kilometers. Enough said, we hit the buffet that evening with zero shame (and maybe went back for seconds). 🙃

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    Nach unserem Antarktis-Abenteuer und einer erstaunlich ruhigen Rückfahrt durch die Drake-Passage erreichten wir die Falkland-Inseln – bei strahlendem Sonnenschein! Kein Regen, kein Wind – dafür sind die Falklands ja eigentlich bekannt. Stattdessen begrüßte uns perfektes Wetter. 🥰 Wir hätten nicht gedacht, dass die Inseln an die Antarktis anknüpfen können, aber wir wurden im positiven Sinne vom Gegenteil überzeugt!

    Mit einem Wassertaxi ging es an Land, wo wir eine „kleine Wanderung“ zur Gypsy Cove planten. Die Tour zum Volunteer Point mit den Königspinguinen waren größtenteils ausgebucht und mit £160 pro Person (190€) leider etwas zu viel für unser Budget. Wenn man zu viel Geld übrig hat, kann man das gleiche auch direkt auf dem Schiff für $660 (~636€) buchen. 🙃💸

    Auf den Falkland Inseln gibt es kein öffentliches WLAN und auch die Restaurants und Cafés bieten keinen Hotspot an. Bei der Touristeninformation haben wir die Info bekommen, dass die Busse (20 britische Pfund) erst ab 9:30 Uhr fahren. Da wir mit 8 Uhr recht früh dran waren und wir es als Deutsche ja nicht anders gewohnt sind, entschieden wir uns, die 12 Kilometer zur Gypsy Cove einfach entlang der Küste zu laufen. Dafür wurden wir auch mehr als belohnt, da uns unterwegs bereits ein paar Magellan-Pinguine aus wenigen Metern Entfernung begegneten. 🐧🥰

    An der Gypsy Cove angekommen, wurden wir mit einer Kulisse wie aus dem Bilderbuch belohnt: ein strahlend weißer Sandstrand, eine Pinguinkolonie direkt vor uns, und im Meer sprangen Delfine. Einfach Traum!

    Doch das war noch nicht alles: Auf dem Weg weiter zur Yorke Bay hörten wir von anderen Wanderern, dass dort Königspinguine gesichtet wurden. Nach einer halben Stunde erreichten wir das Highlight des Tages hinter den Dünen: mehrere Kolonien von Pinguinen mit ihren flauschigen Babys und – tatsächlich – drei majestätische Königspinguine u.a. ein Teenage Königspinguin, der noch seine Babyfedern verliert. Aber die Bilder sprechen für sich...

    Am Ende des Tages hatten wir 36.000 Schritte (25 Kilometer) auf der Uhr. Das Buffet wurde an dem Abend nicht nur einmal aufgesucht. 🫠🤤
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  • Giorno 16

    New Island - Falkland Inseln

    30 marzo 2024, Isole Falkland ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Die Nacht war ruhig, das Schiff war in einer Bucht der New Island sehr geschützt „geparkt“.👍

    Ansonsten, nicht viel zu sagen😉

    Eine WAHNSINNS Umgebung und Albatrosse sowie Rockhopper Pinguine satt.😍😍

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