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Falklands & South GeorgiaFalklands & South Georgia
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Planned to be “The ultimate Antarctica trip, visiting Falklands - South Georgia and finally Antarctica”, all onboard the vessel MS Ocean Albatros
Ended up without Antarctica due to an accident on the way to South Georgia on day 5.. Läs mer
  • 18fotavtryck
  • 20dagar
  • 216foton
  • 118gilla-markeringar
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  • Danmark
  • Södra Georgien och södra Sandwichöarna
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Lyxiga resor, Segling, Vilda djur, Arbete och resa
  • 33,6kantal resta kilometer
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FöljKalenderDelaBucket list
  • 18fotavtryck
  • 20dagar
  • 216foton
  • 118gilla-markeringar
  • 33,6kkilometer
  • 28,6kkilometer
Nyast först
  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    2
    Dag 1

    The long way down

    2 januari, Nederländerna ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Finally, the day had arrived… mixed emotions leaving the family for a full three weeks, but that was balanced out by the adventure of visiting the southernmost part of the world, with some of the most pristine and magical nature on Earth. Still, an extra long hug and kiss at the airport :)

    Packing started slowly during the Christmas days, but on the 1st of January, the thought of “this will not fit in my duffle bag” started to creep in. A quick and structured packing session showed that everything fit well in the gigantic bag and carry-on. The only items missing are the newer binoculars and new sunglasses that I bought, but both got stuck in the post-Christmas logistical bottleneck, so I’ll manage with what I have :)

    The first leg to Amsterdam is done—smooth, and it left time for coffee and a meet-up with my dear colleague Steffan, who will also join the trip for the next 19 days.

    Now, off to a looooong sleep and movie-watching across the sea to Buenos Aires, 14 hours ahead of us in the air. Estimated arrival time is 07:00 local time (11:00 DK time).    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    Dag 2

    End of the world 🏔️

    3 januari, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We had a fairly good flight and arrived in Buenos Aires 35 minutes later than scheduled, carrying the delay from Amsterdam.

    The driver who was supposed to pick us up didn’t show up, but this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We ended up driving through the magnificent city of Buenos Aires, with Miguel, accompanied by 80s hits from Bonnie Tyler, A-ha, Bon Jovi, and Metallica. What a vibe! 👌 It’s an impressive city and will definitely be a stopover priority for future trips.

    An hour later, we arrived at the next airport, only to face another chaotic scene. Thankfully, we had enough time to navigate the 5-hour transit smoothly in this bustling city of 15 million people. From the sky, the city is breathtaking. Its well-structured layout resembles a massive version of Manhattan, with clusters of skyscrapers scattered around, numerous football stadiums (of course 😅), and an overall incredible urban design.

    The area along the riverbanks where Buenos Aires is situated is remarkably flat, with the rivers’ muddy waters flowing toward the open sea.

    I even captured the name of the playlist (see the picture) and snapped a photo of the beautiful green surroundings of the domestic airport before plunging into another queue inferno for our onward journey to Ushuaia.

    Even before landing in Ushuaia, I was already in love with the place. The sight of rugged, majestic mountains as we approached this “end of the world” city was simply breathtaking. 🤩

    Our colleague Guadalupe greeted us at the airport, and after a quick stop to shower and change, we were off to a cozy afternoon. It included a hike in a small park with guide Steffan explaining the endemic trees and plants. One highlight was the “pan de indio” (Indian bread), a little round mushroom that’s edible and apparently delicious. 😋

    We visited a viewpoint to soak in the landscape and imagine the rich history of this place—once home to indigenous tribes and their fight, later a government prison city, and now the gateway to exploring Tierra del Fuego and Antarctica.

    The day wrapped up with a pre-dinner beer at The Dubliner (apparently an expedition tradition!) and a proper Argentinian steak at Restaurant Garibaldi. 👌

    This trip is a massive ✅ on the bucket list, marking the achievement of reaching the “end of the world.” 🥳    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    Dag 3

    Embarkation and Win Hof!

    4 januari, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    What a day!
    I started in the harbor around 06:30, following the team as we disembarked guests from both the Ocean Albatros and Ocean Victory. It was great to finally see the vessels and meet the team onboard. A very special morning chatting with happy guests, agents, and meeting the expeditions team and captains from both vessels.
    The plan was to return to the hotel for breakfast, but time flew by, and breakfast was forgotten. Before I knew it, we had to rush back to the hotel for an overdue checkout, drop off luggage for vessel transportation, and then hunt down a late breakfast in the city — the best croissant with ham and cheese ever!

    Afterwards, I had a lunch meeting (not long after breakfast) with a potential rental and merchandise partner at a restaurant in the first shop of the city, Ramos Generales. An impressive place with great empanadas!

    I then walked through the city, buying a few books from a cozy local bookshop, which also had friendly, relaxed shop dogs.

    As an afternoon treat, I had the chance to meet Wim Hof, a Dutch sportsman and motivational speaker known for his extreme beliefs in the potential of breathwork and cold-water immersion. He famously climbed Kilimanjaro in just two days wearing only minimal clothing, to demonstrate that we don’t need all our gear to survive in cold weather—just proper breathing and training the body to produce more heat. It was a fun, though slightly crazy, lecture on the Ocean Victory before disembarking and crossing the pier to embark on our other vessel, the Ocean Albatros.

    Once onboard, I got to my cabin. It’s in the mid-range category, but it’s really nice! I’ll share some pictures in the coming days.
    After the mandatory safety drill, we were ready to leave the harbor. It was fun to see a large group of guests dressed for emergency embarkation on the ship.

    I enjoyed a very nice dinner at the captain’s table, followed by a unique experience: bird and whale watching from the outdoor observation deck in the hot tub, while leaving the Beagle Channel behind us.

    What a day! I’m immensely impressed by our product, the vessels, and completely in love with Ushuaia, at the end of the world.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    Dag 4

    Sea day with the big birds :)

    5 januari, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a calm night of sleep, I woke up in my floating hotel room. 🤩
    A very nice breakfast with the captain and the head of engineering followed, where we evaluated the state of business and discussed hopes for the coming seasons. Afterward, we did a bit of bird spotting from the ship while enjoying the slow and calm rolling of the sea as we headed toward the Falklands.

    Most of the day, we were sailing through foggy weather. If we are to have foggy days, this is the perfect part of the journey for it, as the smaller and medium-sized icebergs don’t always show on the radar. They also make a rather unsatisfying noise when we hit them at 13 knots (24 km/h), though in this part of the journey, we seldom encounter these smaller icebergs.

    All day, the same birds followed us: Southern Giant Petrels and the smaller White-Chinned Petrels. Both species wait for the vessel’s rotors to stir up some food from the ocean for them, all while observing the strange “animals” taking photos of them. 😁
    The Southern Giant Petrel is not a pretty bird, but it’s massive, with a wingspan between 185–205 cm. Locals call them “stinkers” or “garbage men” because they love feasting on dead animals.

    This full day at sea has been packed with Zodiac briefings, team presentations, kayak briefings, smartphone photo training sessions, and finally a briefing about the plans for tomorrow’s landings in the Falklands, followed by the captain’s welcome.

    After a delicious dinner, the weather cleared up, and we got some evening sun and blue skies, along with our first glimpse of the Black-browed Albatross. I didn’t manage to get a great first picture of this majestic bird, but I had time to admire its beauty. We will see many more of them tomorrow, but seeing it for the first time was special. It isn’t the largest Albatross, but with a wingspan up to 240 cm, it’s still bigger than the average bird in the sky.

    Tomorrow, we have the first landings, hikes, and Zodiac cruises! Now, a bit of sleep before an early morning start. 😴    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    22
    Dag 5

    Falkland Islands - A hidden gem

    6 januari, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Fresh Start to the Day at 07:30, we were sitting in the Zodiac, ready to land on West Point Island, a small privately-owned island in the Falkland Islands. The only residents are the caretakers, Kicki and Thies. Kicki is Swedish but was raised in Austria, while Thies is half German and half Danish. Kicki joined Thies on his little wooden sailing boat 35 years ago, but at that time, Thies had already spent nine years sailing around the world’s oceans—what an impressive story and life!

    Now, they take care of the island, its sheep, and the bird enthusiasts who visit this remote paradise. We arrived early to mark the hiking route and ensure everything was safe for our guests. Thies kindly offered us a shortcut in their Land Rover, so we began the day crossing a small British island in the Southern Ocean in an iconic old Land Rover Defender 110—what a start!

    I wasn’t sure what to expect, but the albatross breeding colony on the island completely blew my mind. It was breathtaking to see these majestic birds so close, caring for their chicks. Albatrosses mate for life and return to the very place where they were hatched—a beautiful cycle of life.

    The steep cliffs where the albatrosses nest are also home to their friends, the Southern Rockhopper penguins—SOOO CUTE! The rockhoppers, though scruffier than the albatrosses, were adorable. Impressively, the adult penguins leave their chicks in the colony when they go out for food. They can do this because birds of prey avoid the sharp beaks of the albatrosses—a perfect partnership between two species.

    On our return, we were greeted with a British tea and Swedish cake buffet, lovingly prepared by Kicki and Thies. It was delicious and much needed! Life on the island is simple and old-fashioned, so we pitched in to help with the dishes afterward—190 guests generate quite a few dishes!

    After a quick lunch and repositioning aboard the vessel, we arrived at Carcass Island. Our afternoon hike here revealed an incredible variety of birds, including Brown Skua, Kelp Goose, Striated Caracara (a bird of prey), Magellanic Oystercatcher (similar to the Danish Strandskade), Austral Thrush, Steamer Duck, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Magellanic Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Upland Goose, Turkey Vultures, and many more. The 4.5-kilometer walk was relaxed and stunningly beautiful.

    Along the coast, elephant seals kept an eye on us and the Zodiacs, pretending not to be curious—but they clearly were!

    It was a perfect day. My only issue? I have far more pictures than I can upload here! Let me know if you’d like to see more.

    Sorry for geeking out about birds, but it’s impossible not to in this magical world.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    2
    Dag 6

    Stanley, Gypsy Cove and fight with a Sea

    7 januari, Falklandsöarna ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We started the day with a Zodiac shuttle to the jetty in the harbor of Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. With a population of roughly 2,000—just over half of the entire population of this remote corner of the British Empire—Stanley feels like a small, quiet town.

    The harbor was peaceful in the early morning, but that changed quickly! The local “king of the harbor”—a 300+ kg South American sea lion—decided to claim the jetty as his own. With 180 people scheduled to land within the hour, we definitely needed the space back! After a brief standoff and some strategic water hose assistance from the port authority, we managed to reclaim the jetty.

    Our first trip of the day was to Gypsy Cove just outside Stanley, an area recently reopened to the public after the last landmine was removed from the beaches. The cove was stunning, with incredible views of 400-million-year-old sandstone formations and pristine snow-white beaches.

    We spotted an amazing variety of birds, including Magellanic Penguins, Antarctic Terns, Austral Thrushes, Crested Ducks, Flightless Steamer Ducks (ironically, they can’t fly despite the name), and Rock Shags. The highlight of the day, though, was seeing breeding Black-Crowned Night Herons. We observed both their nests with bright blue eggs and their young chicks—rare and truly beautiful birds. The dramatic landscape added to the magic, though it’s hard to capture its true essence in photos (but I’ve done my best!).

    Back in Stanley, we explored the city, visited the little but great museum where impressive stories and great humour mixed well together, and had lunch at a classic British pub. They had one draft beer (a dark ale) and one item on the menu: fish and chips. It was as traditionally British—and as disappointing—as expected (though my dear Welsh colleague Steffan would agree). After an important victory in a game of pool, we wandered through the city, picking up a few books—my favorite type of souvenir, soaked in the mix of Great Britain and the remote islands vibe.

    Walking around Stanley, reminders of the Falklands War from 42 years ago are still visible. The scars remain fresh for the local British citizens, and the sentiment toward their Argentinian neighbors is noticeably cold, even today.

    In the afternoon, we returned to the vessel and began our 2.5-day journey to South Georgia. The rest of the day was spent preparing for our visit, which involved extensive biosecurity measures. To protect South Georgia’s pristine ecosystem from invasive species, we had to thoroughly clean and vacuum every item of clothing, boots, backpacks, and other gear. It’s a detailed process but entirely worth it.

    Dinner with Steffan and the captain wrapped up the day. I forgot to take pictures of the meal, but let’s just say the food on this trip is so good that I’m definitely gaining weight!    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    Dag 7

    Sea day and ship inspection/teaching

    8 januari, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Today was a full day at sea, making it the perfect opportunity to dive into the details of this beautiful ship! Gui, who has been part of our expedition staff for years, kindly volunteered to guide us around every corner of the vessel.

    For someone without an engineering background, it was mind-blowing to explore the ship and try to grasp the complexity of its machinery, handling, engines, storage, security, and more. Visiting the engine room was particularly impressive, with two of the ship’s four engines running at a casual 70% power. Together, the engines deliver a total of 7,500 bhp, providing power not just for propulsion but also for everything else onboard, including air conditioning, the watermaker, elevators, lighting, and electricity.

    The ship can accommodate up to 300 people, and for an 18-day trip like this, managing the storage and preparation of food is an incredible logistical feat (not to mention actually planning and cooking all that food!). On a typical expedition, we carry around 175 passengers and 90–100 crew members.

    The ship is like a floating hotel, but far more complex. It has laundry facilities, a bakery, several kitchens, 15 Zodiacs, a fitness center, a sauna, kayaks, a shop, and a lecture room. It’s fascinating to think about all the intricate technology required to keep everything running smoothly.

    The rest of the day was a mix of work—emails, one-on-one meetings with expedition staff, and attending lectures.

    The first lecture was about the geology of the world, focusing on the story of Pangaea, the supercontinent when all landmasses were united. It explored how geological evidence of this ancient formation can still be seen today and explained how the movements of tectonic plates have shaped the mountains and earthquakes we see across the globe.

    This was followed by a fascinating and enlightening lecture on whales. It traced the evolution of whales from four-legged terrestrial animals to fully marine mammals. Over time, these creatures adapted to life in the water, eventually splitting into two main families: baleen whales (which filter-feed on small organisms) and toothed whales (hunters like orcas).

    Whales are incredible animals, and the lecture was made even more special when a pod of dolphins decided to follow the ship for a while, putting on a little show for us.

    Apart from the dolphins, it was a relatively quiet day for wildlife, but I did spot a Wandering Albatross! With the largest wingspan of any bird, this one was enormous and absolutely stunning. Watching it glide effortlessly on the wind was mesmerizing. Fun fact: Wandering Albatrosses typically don’t touch land again until they’re about 8–9 years old, after leaving the nest as juveniles. I’m hoping to capture the perfect photo of this majestic bird tomorrow.

    Tomorrow evening, we arrive in South Georgia. If you have 20 minutes to spare, I highly recommend watching a short film by the esteemed Sir David Attenborough here: South Georgia Visitor’s Guide. I’m beyond excited for what lies ahead!    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    Dag 8

    Damaged ship and changed plan!

    9 januari, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    This Day Changed the Voyage

    The day started slow and rainy. After a great lecture on seabirds, we passed our first major iceberg—an impressive sight, even in bad weather.

    Around 11:30, we approached Shag Rocks, two small rock islands in the middle of the ocean, about 120 nautical miles from South Georgia. As we neared the islands, the captain slowed the ship, and we got closer to the ominous-looking rocks. They’re called Shag Rocks because many shags (seabirds) live and breed on these remote outcrops. Most of the guests, including me, went out on deck to photograph the islands and the birds.

    After a few minutes, the ship suddenly turned sharply and made abrupt contact with something. This was followed almost immediately by a second bump. The ship’s alarm sounded, and a “Code Bravo” was announced—indicating a fire on board. Fire wasn’t the main problem but I’ll get back to that.

    I quickly left the outer deck and headed back to my cabin, meeting my colleague Steffan on the way. He simply and calmly said, “Pack the most necessary items in a dry bag and be ready.” A few minutes later, the emergency alarm sounded, and we were instructed to gather in the lecture room with warm jackets and life vests—just like in the drill at the start of the trip, but this time it was real 😳

    I had expected some panic, but things remained fairly calm overall. Of course, there was anxiety among the guests about what might happen next, and the alarm sound itself created a nervous atmosphere. The crew systematically ensured everyone was accounted for in the lecture room. We were then divided into lifeboat groups and waited for the decision on whether we needed to evacuate the vessel.

    Those 15 minutes felt very long. Eventually, we received word that another expedition ship had responded to our emergency call and was en route to assist us if an evacuation became necessary. That was a huge relief, especially considering we were about 2,000 kilometers from the mainland.

    After 15–20 minutes, the captain called me to the bridge. We had a brief discussion about the situation and our options. Since the ship was still stable, we decided to continue toward South Georgia. This decision was partly influenced by a major storm approaching as I write this, making South Georgia the best option for shelter.

    The bottom of the ship is partly flooded, and one of the ship’s stabilizer wings is broken. The other stabilizer cannot be used due to flooded electrical systems. For now, the plan is to proceed east to South Georgia, wait out the storm over the next 3–4 days, and then hope for a safe weather window to sail back to Argentina. Unfortunately, this means no Antarctica for us on this voyage. Hopefully the weather over the coming days still allows us to visit the impressive place, we will know tomorrow.

    As expected, the guests are frustrated and disappointed. There’s a lot of work ahead for us in the coming days and weeks, but I’m grateful to be here and able to contribute to managing this situation.

    I’ll update my travel diary in the coming days and hope for some incredible wildlife sightings before we head back to Argentina. For now, I’m simply relieved not to be sitting in a lifeboat in 3–4 meter waves waiting to be rescued. It’s been an emotional and somewhat stressful day, but we’ll make it through.

    (A few pictures from the day, lectures, Black Browed Albatross, Antarctic Shag and the Shag Rocks.. pictures 2-3 mins before impact)    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    22
    Dag 9

    South Georgia Galore!

    10 januari, Södra Georgien och södra Sandwichöarna ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    After a scary and less-than-pleasant day yesterday—and with still some disappointed guests at breakfast—the view from the windows gave hope for a magical day in the stunning South Georgia.

    We landed on the beach at Fortuna Bay. There were a few waves, and sadly, some dead seals along the shoreline. South Georgia has been heavily affected by bird flu, which originated in Asia years ago and has since spread worldwide. Some birds get sick while others don’t, but unfortunately, quite a few mammals succumb to it, with seals suffering particularly badly.

    Despite the carcasses—which some of nature's “cleaners,” like Southern Giant Petrels, treated as a buffet—the place is breathtakingly beautiful. It's the perfect combination of mountains, glaciers, beaches, wildlife, greenery, and raw, untamed beauty. I was incredibly impressed. Though I haven’t seen New Zealand yet, guests who have been there said it compares to this.

    We encountered large groups of King Penguins—so incredibly beautiful! Just enjoy the pictures :) There were also seals, fur seals, elephant seals, and the aforementioned "cleaners" like petrels. A lot of fur seal pups were running around on the beach, super curious about the funny-looking animals (us)! I took plenty of photos but also gave myself time to just soak in the scenery. The sheer beauty of this place is truly moving.

    After lunch, we repositioned the vessel to the neighboring bay, Stromness, where a couple of old whaling stations still stand as ruins—a haunting reminder of a dark time. In this remote corner of the world, 175,000 whales were slaughtered, and their fat (blubber) was boiled down into whale oil. The stations, mainly manned by Norwegians, were in operation until 1935.

    Despite its grim history, the place is astonishing. I thought the morning had been fantastic, but this just topped it. The beauty here is impossible to capture fully in pictures—you simply have to visit!

    We walked a bit inland to see a small Gentoo Penguin colony. The penguins were super cute, and the chicks were chasing their parents for food. However, as soon as a Brown Skua (which preys on small penguins) appeared in the air, the chicks huddled together in a tight group, making it harder for the skuas to grab any of them. It was adorable and impressive to see their survival instincts in action.

    We also spotted the elusive South Georgia Pintail Duck, the world’s only carnivorous duck.

    A final detail worth mentioning is that Stromness is most famous as the whaling station where Sir Ernest Shackleton and his two men arrived after being lost and presumed dead for two years. Their epic survival story, and rescue of their 21 friends stuck on elephant island is one you must read about—or wait for me to tell you another day :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernest_Shackleton
    
Today was an amazing day! Plus, with a few flu-stricken guides out of commission, I had the chance to step in as a proper expedition guide 🥳    Läs mer

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  • ResenärFalklands & South Georgia
    22
    Dag 10

    South Georgia in sunshine ☀️

    11 januari, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Today was, once again, a magical day—with a slightly challenging evening (#cliffhanger)!

    We started the morning with a landing at Saint Andrews Bay, a stunning location showcasing all the best of South Georgia, including the largest King Penguin colony in the world. There were countless examples of these magnificent birds. Although we couldn’t reach the part of the colony where the small brown and super cute chicks are located, we knew we would see them later in the day.

    We did, however, see many King Penguins going through the “molting phase”—a time of year when they shed and replace their feathers. This means no swimming and, therefore, no food. For about two weeks, they are hungry and cold, enduring a challenging period (almost like everyone else in January ;)).

    There were also plenty of Elephant Seals, Fur Seals, Giant Petrels, and Brown Skuas, but the King Penguins definitely stole the show.

    In the afternoon, we anchored in the neighboring bay, Royal Bay. The sun was still shining, and we had arranged a two-hour zodiac cruise to see Macaroni Penguins (the ones with colorful feathers on their heads that look like a Disney creation), icebergs, and a King Penguin colony with small, fluffy brown chicks.
    It was a fantastic afternoon, and once again, the landscape was indescribably beautiful. I’m continually amazed by this place.

    Before dinner, we had our daily recap session, during which I decided to take the stage and address the situation regarding the ship damage, the changes to the trip, and all the practical implications (at least, what we know so far). As expected, it was a challenging discussion, but it went fairly well.

    Afterward, we enjoyed dinner, and now it’s time for bed after another incredible day!    Läs mer

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