Evening Food Tour

This evening started with a short train journey across town to meet outside the Sirkeci Grand Post Office, a very grand old building and an easy meeting point.

Our group was a cosy 10 people and we were joined by our very lovely guide, Sule… who, was also a cat person. Instant approval 🐈😂

Our first stop was a little snack to get things going. We tried Çiğ köfte, a spicy paste rolled up in a lettuce leaf - fresh, punchy and surprisingly addictive.

Alongside that we had an amazing piece of proper Turkish delight (Tahinli Hürrem Sultan Lokum). Forget the dusty cubes you get in airport gift shops … this was chewy, nutty and absolutely delicious 😜

Next we stopped for a rooftop view across the city with a warming glass of Turkish tea… strong black tea served in those lovely little tulip-shaped glasses. While we were there, a Whirling Dervish appeared and began spinning gracefully in the middle of the room. It was mesmerising to watch and felt like one of those completely unexpected travel moments you don’t plan for but will always remember.

Our final stop of the evening was the wonderful Siirt Şeref Büryan, a place Sule has been visiting with her family since she was a child… always a good sign.

The food started arriving… and didn’t really stop 😂

First came a selection of meze:
• Cacık – like tzatziki
• Acılı ezme – a spicy tomato and pepper paste
• Gavurdağı salatası – a fresh salad with tomatoes, walnuts and herbs

All served with piles of fresh flatbread and an ice-cold cup of Ayran (a slightly salted yoghurt drink perfect for spicy food).

Then came a bulgur wheat salad followed by the restaurant’s specialty… büryan, slow-roasted lamb served on bread. Rich, tender and full of flavour.

Just when we thought we might be done… more food appeared.

Next were the kebabs… minced lamb and chicken… served with another local speciality, Perde pilavı (rice with onions, pine nuts, raisins and chicken, all baked inside a pastry case). Yes… rice inside pastry and yes… it was amazing 😋

And if that somehow wasn’t enough, we finished with Künefe… crispy pastry with melted cheese, pistachios and sweet syrup.

Honestly… one of the most amazing desserts ever.

One extra little historical surprise… right outside the restaurant stood part of the ancient Valens Aqueduct. Sule explained that this Roman aqueduct once helped supply water to the Basilica Cistern we had explored earlier that morning. It was one of those moments where the history of the day suddenly connected together.

Throughout the evening we chatted, ate far too much food and had a wonderfully relaxed time. Sule made a point of chatting with each of us, sharing food recommendations, local tips… and of course plenty of Istanbul cat stories 😂

A perfect evening… great food, great company and another reminder that Istanbul might just be one of the best food cities in the world.Read more