• The Electric City

    21. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Schenectady is a much smaller city than I was imagining, but it made up for size in it's delectable snack options. I finally got a slice of NY pizza, and we wandered into some tattoo shops to see if we could decorate our cyclist thighs. We got lucky and some artists had availability! I love my shaggy new friend and Andrew got mountains added to the goat he got during our Glacier National Park trip.

    We also wandered into a tea/lunch place where we had one of the best meals of our lives. A ratatouille crepe, red pepper tomato soup, and a forest berry scone. I had been craving fresh fruits and vegetables after trying hard to finish the oatmeal/backpacking meals we had brought - this place hit the spot.

    Schenectady is where George Westinghouse invented the rotary engine and where Thomas Edison founded General Electric, so we wandered to the Museum of Science and Innovation but it was closed. More interesting to me is that Kurt Vonnegut worked here at GE and this is where he ultimately decided to quit and become a writer.

    We got a great deal on a historic hotel that seemed to be completely empty (including staff) but no complaints here. We've spent most of the last three weeks sleeping outside on the ground so a night on the 8th floor of a potentially haunted inn was fine by me!

    We have one more ride to get in, from the Amtrak station in Chicago back to our house. Almost there!
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  • Mohawk River

    20. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Our last day was so easy it felt anti-climatic. 42 flat, paved miles on the Erie Canal/Mohawk River Trail. It almost felt like we were going downhill the whole time but I think my legs are just unused to the flatlands now.

    Neither of us have ever been into trail riding much. It's nice to be away from traffic but it gets boring quick. We played increasingly challenging games of 20 Questions (no limit on questions edition) to pass the time and suddenly we were at our lunch stop in Amsterdam, where there was one of the most beautiful sculptures I've ever seen. A quick couple hours later we made it to Schenectady. Some people just take the trail the whole way across New York. We got lucky that a fellow bike tourer friend warned us off this, because even one day on a trail is enough to make me want to jump ship.
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  • Last day in the dacks

    19. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    We had a merciful, gentle descent out of the Adirondacks: pavement so fresh it was streaming, enough hills to keep things interesting but an overall loss of elevation all the way back to regular old beautiful upstate NY.

    I always enjoy passing by cows and horses. They're generally intrigued by cyclists, and sometimes I feel like they'd be into some good nose scritches.

    The day got a little more dramatic after First Lunch (chips, Snickers, and half a cliff bar each) when clouds started rolling in. We didn't make it long in the absolute maelstrom that followed. Riding in the rain is fine, but it was objectively dangerous to be out on the road so we took shelter in the first place that appeared. Which HAPPENED to be an ice cream-snack stand-campground with a covered pavilion. Well, that was that! How could we leave?
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  • Rest

    18. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Another rainy day off! We did catch a break this time, though, because there was a picnic shelter to hang out in. Got some drawing done, played games, spent a silly amount of time balancing my camera on a rock to take a picture...All in all, just what the doctor ordered for our weary bodies.

    When the rain quieted down, we biked three hilly miles to and from the camp store, motivated by ice cream and the need to grab lunch provisions for tomorrow. Well, they had the ice cream, but lunch tomorrow is gonna be potato chips and candy....
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  • Same day, new day

    17. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Traveling by bike really distorts and stretches your sense of time. Days feel like weeks, weeks feel like years. So sometimes when you have a rough day, in the end, it can also be a pretty great one. We had planned on cooking dinner at camp, but were so exhausted we just picked up some sandwiches for the road. The rangers at Moffit Beach State Park were super nice and warned us that our chosen campsite was over two miles away, so they helped us pick a closer one and let us know where we could get wood. We munched on chips by the fire and slept very well in the first comfortable temperatures we've had in a while. Another 55 miles in the books.Læs mere

  • Rough riders

    17. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today is one of the hardest days of riding we've had so far. The climbing is average, the weather is fine, we had a great morning in Schroon Lake checking out the foggy sunrise and munched on some warm cranberry muffins. Yet we're both struggling. Tired, like we've been climbing mountains for days or something, I dunno.

    Luckily we have some trail pizza to keep us going and a day off in one last state park tomorrow.
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  • Perfection achieved

    16. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    If you go long enough, you do *eventually* end up with good riding conditions. It took us 600 miles, but here we are.

    Today: 45 miles. The perfect distance. No rain, no dirt road or single-track trails, partly sunny but not too hot. Wide shoulders and smooth asphalt, markets with fresh homemade blueberry muffins, climbs steep enough to make you feel accomplished but not so steep you have to walk, and long, gentle descents through the alpine forest to beautiful Lake Schroon, where we got some KILLER anchovy artichoke pizza.

    You know that amazing Ticonderoga pencil smell? This whole place smells like that.
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  • Winter is (also) here

    15. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    After a beautiful day of climbing several thousand feet up to and past Lake Placid, we spent a day off considering hiking up a mountain, noping out after a mile, and literally standing in the sun all afternoon basking in the gloriousness of doing nothing but trying to stay warm. Consecutive nights in the 30s aren't what I signed up for, but that's how mountains do, and I'm just happy to be here (and by "here" I mean "right next to the fire").Læs mere

  • Do or donut. There is no try

    15. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    It's been a bit chilly for ice cream, so Andrew and I have been collecting coffee and donut samples across the Adirondacks. For science! After much research and despite claims to the contrary and more appealing marketing at Glazing Saddles, we decided that the BEST donuts in the Adirondacks are found high up in Lake Tupper at Washboard Donuts and Laundromat (yes seriously). Now you know!Læs mere

  • Soggy bottom

    15. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Lake Eaton stayed rainy as we left so we made and ate breakfast in the recycling center, like a couple hi-vis raccoons. It was literally the only shelter in the whole park besides the bathrooms.

    The whole place is guarded by an electric fence at night to keep bears out. Reminds me of a quote from a documentary (or something) I saw on the topic: The hardest part about designing bear-proof infrastructure is that there's a lot of overlap between the smartest bears and the dumbest humans. As a dumb human, I can confirm that recycling is hard sometimes, so I'm glad this park made it so easy!

    Anyway, the rain didn't stop us from enjoying another great mountain ride, and when the sun FINALLY came out we were rewarded with a gorgeous view of a mountaintop wetland
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  • First day off

    13. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    First REAL day off, I mean, like we rode zero miles on our bikes, didn't even look at the things

    ...It rained most of the day. Typical

    We made the best of it and went for a hike with the cheap emergency umbrellas we bought for our first day "off" in Ithaca. Man these things have come in handy! We also played a lot of dice in the tent and treated ourselves to some tasty sodas for dinner (carried uphill in glass bottles - not an insignifcant task!).

    All in all, not a bad day, and my body needed it - we rode for 14 consecutive days!
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  • Adirondacks ho!

    11. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Folks, we have liftoff! We have climbed THOUSANDS of feet (literally) and are in the MOUNTAINS. Look at those trees! Smell that delicious alpiney oxygen! Is it better than regular oxygen? Yes!

    We scheduled a "day off" after our first big climbing day during which we were simply going to move from one campground to another, but one thing led to another and we ended up biking 8 miles through some steep hills. AGAIN. Our second day off in a row which turned out to be fake news. We did eventually find some time to look at a pretty lake in some Adirondack chairs, which aren't like, the most comfortable, but are everywhere around here (weird). We also already saw one bear in our first campground, which was a little disconcerting. The conversation with the ranger at our second campground wasn't heartening:

    Ranger: this is BEAR country. We DEFINITELY have bears. Put your food in your CAR. LOCK your car.

    Us: um, we don't have a car.

    Ranger: oh, well, I wouldn't worry about it then.

    Us: We saw one last night at the campground 5 miles away.

    Ranger: oh...yeah...I mean, they don't come HERE too much...

    🤔
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  • Cobblestone Castle

    10. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    On our way up a mountain we came across "Cobblestone Castle," a delightful and imaginative playground/art installation/repurposed junk world among the trees. The artist, Mike, was there, a really nice guy, doing his best to just create. I thought it was pretty cool. If you ever head into the Adirondacks, stop by!

    I had seen a road killed raccoon with a fairly intact sun bleached skeleton down the road and lamented having to leave it behind. I thought Mike might be able to make some use of it - someone should! He thanked me for the tip :-)
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  • Have a beautiful now

    9. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Somehow on most of my bike trips I end up staying at some sort of community house at least once and it is always a delight. An acquaintance from long ago (and fellow bike tourer) hosted us at his beautiful artist/activist shared house in Syracuse and it was so wonderful. To sleep in a bed, to use a kitchen, to have a conversation over coffee on a lovely porch and admire the murals. We walked a block to the local Korean joint and impressed the owner with how much food we ordered (and finished).

    Today we're back on the canal. It's undeniably great for turtle and heron watching, and seeing a lock in action was pretty cool, but I'm ready for the mountains ahead
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  • Harriet Tubman

    7. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Harriet Tubman escaped slavery and purchased a home in Auburn, NY, which she shared with her parents, husband, and cared for others needing safety. She eventually purchased land attached to the property and opened a home for the aged, which she ran and funded herself. Despite serving as a spy, nurse, and commander during the American Civil War, she only ever received a partial military pension over two decades after her service.

    Her home is currently being restored and maintained by one of the families that lived there after she passed. Despite being a "partner" of the National Park Service, the site receives no federal funding. The programming there is excellent and important. I left inspired and amazed at her commitment to justice and freedom. Lincoln gets way too much credit for what a community of abolitionists worked for years to accomplish.
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  • Ithaca

    6. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Our day off was also very wet. We visited Cornell, hoping to see their ornithology lab and botanic gardens, but the weather didn't co-operate. At least we got a nice view at the top of the super steep hill it lives on (so steep I wouldn't bike up OR down it)...

    Ithaca is truly beautiful, you can't shake a stick without seeing a waterfall and they had really great local bread, but after a week on the road my tolerance for urban life is low and I'll be glad to move on.

    The hotel within our budget wasn't a whole lot less damp than our tent anyway and at least our tent isn't haunted
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  • Drenched

    5. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    Yep, called it. We were downright dripping through most of our ride today. It would have been an easy straight-shot 25 miles from our campground to Ithaca today, but we figured, hey, let's go see Finger Lakes National Forest on our way. What's another 10 miles?

    Reader, those ten miles were uphill in pouring rain and dirt road. I could barely see. And for some strange reason, both of us were tired. Like we had biked 60 miles the day before or something. We turned off at the first sign of pavement and sought much appreciated refuge at a coffee shop. Decided we had seen enough of the forest and to go see Taughannock Falls instead (only 3 miles out of the way - at this point more our speed).

    This was a good decision because there was a beautiful 10 mile downhill trail into town after that - a welcome change for the last of our riding.

    The second cheapest hotel in Ithaca is nestled between a Walmart and two oil change shops in the most cyclist-unfriendly spot possible. We were only a couple miles from downtown but decided not to bike since even our rain gear was saturated and it was still raining. The only Lyft driver in the city was unavailable and the bus wasn't for an hour, so we got umbrellas and walked, only to get drenched (again) in our clean dry clothes by a passing car. Then, the restaurant we were heading to, one of the only ones open in town, turned us away because they were too busy. The journey to our 250 mile celebration dinner was turning into a comedy of errors. We ducked into the next open spot and our luck changed. They had two seats outside (well covered). The food was a bit fancy but extremely fairly priced. We feasted on pickled beets, fish sauce glazed brussels sprouts (some of the best I've ever had), brisket and fried chicken sandwiches, and an entire bottle of local wine, from the year of our last bike trip together (2017). The Finger Lakes are apparently the top wine producing region in the country. Given my complete lack of expertise and sample size of 1, I can confirm this!

    After dinner we walked around to look at more waterfalls but it was too dark, so we just listened to them roar. It was nice. The geography of this place seems kind of dangerous for anyone in a drunken condition (lots of gorges right next to the sidewalk! The Ithaca is Gorges people weren't kidding!!) but we survived (I was the only one in danger -half a bottle of wine while tired and dehydrated took it's toll...)

    By 10:30, the Only Lyft Driver in Ithaca was finally available to take us back to our comfy bed (!!) so we didn't have to brave the puddle showers again. Overall, a long but rewarding adventure of a day. More rain tomorrow. We'll see what the day off brings
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  • Finger Lakes

    4. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Whew! I struggled today. 58 miles of rolling hills. Andrew stayed with me the whole time despite my whining about my swollen wasp-stung leg and generally tired body. We had lunch at a vineyard on Seneca Lake and are spending a rainy night in Cayuga Lake. I think this might be the middle finger??

    Kung Pao Chicken from a bag for dinner, banana nut cake from our RV neighbor Jean who begged us to take it. I'll never turn down free cake on a bike trip. A couple days ago some Seattleites gifted us some gummies. Again, twist my arm! We must really look the part of sore hungry cyclists.
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