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Karen Fig
Karen Fig

Karen Fig

war bereits in 9 Ländern Weiterlesen🇺🇸Chicago
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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    Regional Flfish cake and summer chow chow (delicious local summer vegetable relish)Forgot to include this on the last post. We saw two black-backed woodpeckers hunting! Double lifer!

    Fiddling

    20. August in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Nova Scotia in general and Cape Breton Island in particular is known for having a rich fiddle culture. After the Acadians and Mi'kma'k lost rights to the land, the British settled the land with Scots, many of whom had been kicked off their own land during the Highland Clearances between the mid-1700s to the mid-1800s. "Canada" was officially founded in 1867, with Nova Scotia as one of the four founding provinces.

    Cape Breton, being an island, kept a strong and unique Scottish fiddling tradition that (according to wikipedia) is nearly lost on the mainland. Fiddlers and musicians from Nova Scotia and the rest of Canada come to Cape Breton for the music, and so we decided to spent our last night there in a historic Acadian bar that featured fiddle music. There was an open mic and in addition to the house band and local talent, there were fiddlers and musicians from Quebec and Toronto.

    Overall we were really impressed with the diversity and amount of talent and clear love of music on this small and remote island in Atlantic Canada. Andrew had a delicious seafood platter and we enjoyed a couple local beers - the first of our trip because we don't drink much these days, but the moment felt right.

    Cape Breton was a really special place and I'm going to remember it for a long time. I've been wanting to come here for a decade, but I really had no idea how unique it would be both ecologically and culturally.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    The structure of the island can result in "suetes," or gusts of wind over 100mph!There were so many blueberries around. The black bears love them!Cabot TrailScientists are running an experiment on letting plants grow without moose aroundFireweedThere were tons of cute orange-belted bumblebeesTent slug1Researchers identify whales by their dorsal fins and scars, which all look different.Pilot whale skeleton

    Highlanders

    20. August in Kanada ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    The morning after our rainy eight mile hike, we picked the slugs off our tent and peeked out at the sky. We were relieved to find that the sun had returned and used the opportunity to try and line dry our clothes (again).

    One thing that's nice about bike trips is that no matter how damp things get, your bike can't start to smell. This is not the same for a road trip.

    We took the morning easy and eventually packed up camp to move across the park to a new site. There is only one road, the Cabot Trail, that takes you from one end of the park to the other, and it's very beautiful and windy. We enjoyed some scenic lookouts, fish and chips (again), and visited the Whale Interpretation Centre, which was small and cute and also sad because modern humans have treated whales so badly. Over 30,000 blue whales were killed in a single year in the 1930s. Evolutionarily, whales are way older than humans. They experience emotions including loss and grief, have families, complex social structures, and even dialects, and though we've kind of moved past hunting them en masse, we're still literally killing them off in other ways.

    Anyway, it was good to see that this humble little building had such good programming and that it wasn't empty. Both the whale centre and the wildlife rescue were way more informative and straightforward than US zoos and aquariums are interested in being these days, and admission to the whale center was $6. No fancy screens or cafeterias, no contracted out gift shop, just a nice variety of specimens and lots of information. I'm glad we went.

    After our drive we set up at our new campground and went to hike the Skyline Trail, which is Cape Breton Island's premiere scenic destination.

    Parking required a reservation, which I loved because it meant you were guaranteed a spot and the lot wasn't congested with cars circling around. There were even helpful park rangers there to orient you. Also, it obviously limits the amount of people on the trail so it's not overcrowded. We learned that this hike was so popular for so long that the delicate boreal-taiga ecosystem was destroyed by tourists, so they built boardwalks for people to walk on that plants can still grow under and have gradually been re-wilding the area. It looks great, and I love to hear a good restoration success story.

    It was so beautiful outside and there were a lot of people around. Sometimes that bothers me but today it felt nice to be around people who appreciated and respected this unique place as well.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    Taking refuge from the rain at a goat farm. Nova Scotians really love their goat farmsEven though I don't like hiking, it was a pretty nice hikeView from the lookoutTasty looking mushroomsChutes Mary AnnHeating our meal on the wood stove (success), drying our clothes and boots (failure)A toasted muffin, an homage to my dad, who never let a muffin go untoastedWarmth after a wet day

    Soggy bottoms

    19. August in Kanada ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    The next morning, it was still raining. And now it was really raining, not just misting. Still, we had come all this way and I was looking forward to hiking. Plus, there's really not much else to do in the area.

    As soon as we started our 8-mile hike, I remembered that I don't really like hiking. The rain got harder the entire time but honestly, I didn't mind it that much. I had an umbrella and a rain jacket and a sweet vape of completely legal Canada cannabis, so we enjoyed the sound and smell of summer rain and the fact that we had the whole trail entirely to ourselves.

    Some parts of it were pretty foggy, which felt magical, though that meant the "lookout" point didn't offer much looking. And at the end, we reached the waterfall, which was beautiful and a good reminder that technically, I could be wetter. We had a really satisfying lunch of Ritz crackers, cheddar cheese, and meat sticks, and started our descent.

    Pretty soon, the rain picked up even more and we technically could not have been wetter. My feet were squelching, my backpack was saturated and leaking water onto my butt, and my legs were really tired. We were two soggy marmots when we got back to the car.

    As soon as we got back, we took hot showers, started cooking dinner and set up a fire in the wood burning stove in the kitchen shelter. I washed down some ibuprofen with a THC beverage in anticipation of the pain I had invited into my life by hiking 8 miles for the first time in a year. And honestly, that stove and that dinner REALLY hit the spot. We rotisseried ourselves for hours by the stove, letting the heat soothe our aching backs, hips, and feet. After eating our local sundried tomato sausages with tender potatoes, onions, and peppers, we toasted muffins and topped them with generous pats of Nova Scotia sea salt butter. We also finished off our berries with cream, and they were even better than the peaches, so tart and juicy.

    The day was full of highs and lows. It felt a lot like a bike trip, to be honest, and I loved that. As they say in Bulgaria, it can't all be yogurt and roses, but it can still be pretty great.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender

    Cape Breton Island

    18. August in Kanada ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    We drove across the mainland until we reached Cape Breton Island. We got to take a small ferry which doesn't have a schedule (runs on demand) and is totally funded by the province, which makes things run so smoothly compared to every ferry I've ever been on in the US. It rained most of the drive but as we approached and drove along the coast, it got foggier and foggier until I could barely see the curves in the road ahead of me. For the first time this trip, I was glad I was not riding a bike, since even the drive was pretty stressful.

    We finally made it to our campground, grumpy and hungry. It was misting still, and we walked down to the beach to stretch our legs and breathe some delicious ocean air. It was really pretty.

    Though the wet weather was a true coastal highlands Vibe, I don't love getting wet and staying like that. Luckily, the park provides cooking shelters and even super nice dishwashing stations so we didn't have to just get wet at camp. Overall, every campground we've been in has been significantly cheaper with nicer amenities than what we're used to in the US. The first place we stayed at even had free hot water, coffee, and a communal fridge with ice packs. These little things make such a big difference when you're camping for a longer stretch.

    There were some other folks in the shelter having dinner, from New Zealand and Venezuela. They seemed nice but we ended up in a longer conversation than I wanted - I was ready to have dinner, take a shower and just go to bed. I went to sleep listening to the tiny raindrops on the tent.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    View from the lighthouse
    View from the lighthouse6:13pm6:26pm: The stairs begin to appear6:50pm. The water moves fast!Almost there7:15These landmasses are called flowerpotsBeforeAfterWalking on the ocean floor!Golden hour on the seabed

    Moon cycles

    17. August in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    The Bay of Fundy has the largest recorded vertical tides in the world. Every six hours, over 100 billion tons of water whoosh in and out of bay, resulting in over 50 feet of change. In some places, you can walk out over 3 miles - as long as you're careful to leave time to come back (or at least bring floaties).

    It's recommended that you visit at low tide for peak ocean floor walking, but the way the day worked out we couldn't make it until just after high tide. I was disappointed and to be honest almost didn't go because it was over an hour drive just to get to this park. As expected, when we got there it was just a body of water. Still, it was very pretty and I enjoyed the peaceful breeze and rare lack of mosquitoes. We had it all to ourselves because people leave when the tide is high.

    After only half an hour or so, we noticed that there seemed to be one more stair leading down to the ocean floor than we had noticed before. And soon, there were DEFINITELY more stairs. It felt like we were in an adventure movie, with a secret passage appearing before our eyes.

    Over the course of a couple hours, what was an island when we arrived was completely accessible by land. There were little hermit crabs in tide pools and the red sandstone made me feel like I was on another planet. It was really beautiful and one of the most amazing things I've ever experienced. The craziest part was that when we left, low tide was still several hours away but the whole area we were in was already empty of water. This was one of the things I was most looking forward to on this trip and it was even cooler than I imagined.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    1Statue of Glooscap, a literal giant and the first human: https://nble.lib.unb.ca/browse
    1Statue of Glooscap, a literal giant and the first human: https://nble.lib.unb.ca/browseBeadworkBasketsA quilt commemorating the Witness Blanket passing through this cultural center. Link in comments

    Mi'kma'ki

    17. August in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    We really wanted to hear the Mi'kmaq side of the story after spending so much time learning about the Acadiens so we headed to a local cultural center.

    Regarding the peacefulness of the Acadian-Mi'kmaq relationship, both sides agree: they got along. Weird!

    However, contact with Europeans wasn't GOOD for the Mi'kmaq. They died in huge numbers due to disease exposure, and access to things like guns and agricultural products caused a major change in a way of life that had sustained First Nations societies for at least 4,000 years in the area (and possibly up to 10,000), derailing the self-sufficiency and sustainability that defined Mi'kmaq culture.

    From the exhibit: "When the first Europeans arrived, they were warmly welcomed and encouraged to trade. At the time of contact it was evident that the Mi'kmaq were a people accustomed to peace. Their system of governance and social organization was inclusive of communities and both genders. Europeans often misinterpreted it as disorganised and slow because decisions in Mi'kmaw communities was based on consensus and took longer. This form of government developed out of a desire to share with and respect each other."

    Damn, what a concept.

    After the Acadiens were deported in the mid-1700s the Mi'kmaq people had to fend for themselves while the British established increasingly resource-extractive colonies and despite "treaties" that supposedly left them with reasonable shares of land, Mi'kma'ki was so overfished and deforested that the old ways of life were no longer possible. The Mi'kmaq suffered starvation, disease, and poverty for generations.

    Eventually, "public education" for First Nations people was established....in the form of residential schools, a system which lasted for over 150 years.

    In the early 1980s, court cases started setting precedent for First Nations to start having some actual rights and land again, but it's an ongoing process. The last residential school in Canada closed in 1996.

    As I was reading the exhibits, it occured to me that this is the first time I've learned about North American Indigenous history in a museum actually created by the people themselves. It was really great and I hope more are built in the future.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    A very rotund black bear
    A very rotund black bearBeaver breakfastEvery animal name was included in Mi'kmaqiCanadians love to have a few goats around apparentlyTIL that emus make very intimidating dinosaur like growls 😳 And that Andrew speaks their languageArctic foxes. These turn white in the winter!

    Wildlife

    17. August in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Last night when we were going to sleep we heard what we thought were wolves howling. It was so beautiful but we were a little skeptical. Turns out we are camping next door to a wildlife rescue that has wolves, and they like to howl when the trains go by.

    Obviously we had to go, especially after I found out that they also have moose! Andrew and I have traveled thousands of miles in moose country over the years and I've still never seen one.

    For $4.75 CAD (like $3.50 USD), we saw a fat black bear, a very active mink, great horned owls, bald eagles, a one-eyed barred owl, arctic foxes, a red fox playing with an apple, porcupines (which it turns out are just Spiky Beavers?), a bobcat, timber wolves, some messed up raccoons, and a lynx..... But the moose? "Oh unfortunately we just lost our moose."

    YEAH RIGHT, you can't fool me anymore, Canada. #moosearen'treal    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    Shubanacadie means land of the potato/ground nut. True fish'n'chip territoryFarmstand/grocery store goats (not for sale)1Today we ate better than the mosquitoes (and they ate pretty well)Peaches and cream by the fire

    Fish: its what's for dinner (and lunch)

    16. August in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Right before I left on this trip, I finished listening to Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential. I was feeling very inspired, especially after stopping at several grocery stores through the day and seeing how much locally sourced produce, fish, and dairy there is here. At camp, I made pan-fried halibut with shitake mushrooms and asparagus, topped with garlic-dill butter, washed it down with local Nova Scotia non-alcoholic cider, and had peaches and cream for dessert. Nova Scotia cream is the most delicious I've ever had, and by some miracle ice cream inflation hasn't hit here so we're taking full advantage.Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    Smugglers Cove was used to load up on alcohol to sell in the US during prohibition
    Smugglers Cove was used to load up on alcohol to sell in the US during prohibitionThe lobsterman also carves and paints the buoysThat's a NICE rockThe One Rock Policy lasted about three minutesSea kelp at low tideBleached seaweedLe Petit BoisThe photos people include fade, but I think that made it all the more lovelyThis savvy chipmunk was not impressed by our snacklessnessLook at the cheeks on dis guyPitcher plant flowerWe found a whole grove of pitcher plants in the wetland!1

    Baie St Marie

    16. August in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We drove the coast of Clare on the Baie St Marie. August is peak whale watching season in Nova Scotia and I want to take all the opportunities I can get to see one. Technically we are in a bay within a much bigger bay (Fundy) but finback and minke whales are known to come inland when the krill and squid getting is good this time of year.

    We didn't see any whales but it was a lovely day anyway. One thing about bike trips is it's hard to carry anything heavy home, so we spent some time beachcombing for garden decor. I thought maybe since we're going to have so much coastal time we should just try to pick one rock for each spot so we don't end up with a trunk full of rocks. Based on our first day of rock hounding, we're going to end up with a trunk full of rocks, each special in its own way.

    We also stopped at what looked like a little kids seaside seashell stand, but it was a lobster fisherman's with a real weird accent, so now we have some shells competing for trunk space too.

    Finally, we went to Le Petit Bois (The Little Woods), a small but magical piece of land maintained by the local university. It includes several ecosystems, including marshland, coast, and intertidal zone, but the Acadian forest, a melange of boreal and deciduous, was the most charming. The chickadees and chipmunks are used to getting fed by the college students and they're VERY friendly. We saw bluejays and goldfinches and crows and locals use the forest as a kind of art gallery and memorial by painting birdhouses and rocks and putting pictures of people that they loved who have died. I teared up at the community display of grief and love, one which exists year round in a beautiful and quiet place.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    Acadian dancing has influences from French, Mi'kmaq, and Celtic traditions
    Acadian dancing has influences from French, Mi'kmaq, and Celtic traditionsLumberjack competitionThe tallest wood church in North America. Another reason England didn't like Acadians is CatholicismOn Aug 15, Acadians walk and drive around making as much noise as they can so you don't forget themIt's called a tintamarre, which means "discordant noise."Acadian electricians.Rappie pie. A gluey potato/meat casserole that's probably great after a long cold day of fishing...Luckily Acadians also eat poutineThere were Acadian musicians from all over playing a concert in the local hockey arena, obviouslyExtreme talented Acadian music legend Kenneth Saulnier and singer-songwriter Vicki DeveauxCajun fiddling prodigy Waylon Thibodeaux, view from behind the net

    National Acadian Day

    15. August in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    In 2017, Andrew and I rode bikes from Montreal to Quebec City, then down to Acadian National Park. During that trip, we learned all about Acadian history, the rich and fascinating story of a resilient and talented people. Then we forgot it all so we're learning it all again on this trip.

    The Acadians came from France and settled the land First Nations people call Mi'kma'ki - today known as Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Maine - in 1605. Despite being settlers, they apparently got along quite nicely with the local Mi'kmaq. I was HIGHLY skeptical of this fact but I spent a good chunk of a car ride trying to find anything contradictory and I couldn't. To my best understanding, the Acadians were technically French (western French marshland folk, specifically) but politically abandoned by their government, which was more interested in colonizing and pillaging further inland, so they just made it work, trading with the Mi'kmaq and farming the local wetlands while the Mi'kmaq primarily fished and hunted. Then Great Britain decided to try to (re)claim the territory as their own and the Mi'kmaq and Acadians fought against the crown together, but eventually lost. During a time called the the Great Upheaval (1755-1864), England forcibly removed over 10,000 Acadians and killed a bunch of them too and, well, made no efforts to get along with the Mi'kmaq. When I was researching this, I found an article using the Acadian-Mi'kmaq relationship as a case study to show that it was possible for settlers and indigenous groups to actually live in harmony, but Great Britain fucked it all up as usual. Thousands and thousands of Acadians were deported all over the world - and many ended up in French-friendly Louisiana, where they once again saw some wetlands and were like, "oh, we can do this," and eventually came to be known as the Cajuns (from Acadiennes).

    About 2,600 Acadians managed to stay in the area but overall it's a diasporic culture now. In 2003, the Canadian government officially recognized that the Acadians were treated badly and established National Acadian Day to celebrate and promote Acadian culture. Indigenous People's Day was established in Canada in 1996 and followed by a few statements of regret/apologies.

    Anyway, we came to Clare, Nova Scotia for National Acadian Day because in addition to Cajun influence, Acadian music and fiddling was also influenced by Celtic fiddling (more on that later) so going to the oldest continuously running Acadian Day festival in Nova Scotia's only francophone county sounded like a cool thing to do, and here we are. Maybe this time we won't forget everything that I just told you. Here are some pictures of Acadian stuff on National Acadian Day in the land of the Acadians. It was pretty cool.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    🦫 🦫 🪵 🪵

    A soft landing

    14. August in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Finally, after 48 hours (including 3 hours of time change - we're in a time zone we literally did not know existed: Atlantic Daylight Time), we made it to our campground just in time for a low tide sunset. It's run by a lovely couple who turned their property into a very small and very nice campground. One of them finds driftwood and turns it into animals to decorate the camp common areas with.

    The grass is soft and plush and after some much appreciated showers and the requisite nightly offering to the Canadian mosquitoes, we finally got to sleep in our tent, limbs full extended and all.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender

    5am, 3pm, 7pm

    14. August in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We did not make it to Nova Scotia by the next morning. We spent all night driving across Quebec and all day driving across New Brunswick, both of which are a lot bigger than we thought and maybe that's what the border patrol guy tried to warn us about. There were signs every couple kilometers warning us to scan for moose, but no luck (good or bad).

    We did finally, mercifully reach Nova Scotia, our backs and butts' aches and pains rivaling those of an endurance bike trip. But even then, we still had another six hours to go.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    Obligatory sleepy Tim Horton's stopRoadside picnic with Andrew's homemade baba ghanoush, hummus, and our garden vegetables

    Canada

    13. August in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We crossed the Detroit River into Canada at the Gordie Howe International Bridge. Andrew and I marveled at the engineering as we crossed it. "Maybe we CAN have nice things," I thought.

    Later I learned that the project was fully funded by the Canadian government, so that explains why it's so nice.

    The Canadian border agent asked where we were headed, what our route was, and why, all questions I answered poorly. I was nervous they would confiscate the garden produce we were traveling with but he only inquired about guns, cannabis, and alcohol. Incidentally, I've learned since then that Canada also regulates its energy drinks so Celsius doesn't have as much caffeine here and they don't allow it to be imported, but he also didn't ask about American-grade caffeinated beverages, stored in our cooler with the illegal cucumbers and tomatoes.

    When we told him we were driving to Nova Scotia and planning on taking the scenic route, he responded "that's the other side of the country, you know that right?!"

    Cheerfully and full of optimism, we said yes! And told him we wanted to bike it but couldn't make it work, which probably didn't make us seem any less crazy. Later we would learn just how Across the Country we were really going, but for now we were happy to be on our way.

    Drivers in Ontario are predictably and shockingly Nice, only using the left lane to pass. We also had plenty of beautiful Canadian rest stops with nice picnic areas. At this point we're a little sleep deprived and tired but excited to pass the sub-24 hour mark for the remainder of our trip, thinking we'd be seeing the Nova Scotia Coast the following morning.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigAndrew and Karen's Great Canadian Road TripReisender
    This is where the bog chupacabra and 4 billion mosquitoes live
    This is where the bog chupacabra and 4 billion mosquitoes liveThe darkest gas station

    Meteor Shower

    13. August in den USA ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    It turns out that whether by bike or car, Andrew and I have a near-pathological desire to squeeze every bit of fun out of a trip we can. One wild and precious vacation and all.

    So instead of getting a good night's sleep and leaving at 4am the next day, an already ambitious plan), I hustled after work to finish packing, load the car, and get the hell out of Chicago so we could experience the Perseids meteor shower on a historic year - when it aligned with a new moon on a dark night!

    Even though it was 8:30pm on a Wednesday, we immediately hit Chicago traffic. That's ok, we thought, it's going to be worth it when the sky rains shooting stars. We waved to Sonja at the White Sox game as we passed Comiskey Park and I fell asleep as Andrew crawled to Indiana for cheap gas, one of the state's few redeeming qualities right now. I woke up when the car stopped, in complete darkness.

    "Where are we?" I mumbled as I tried to wake up and orient myself.
    "A gas station?"

    I looked out the window. Pitch black except for some electricians pulling cable across the street with some work lights. Why did THAT have to be my first vacation sight??

    As my eyes adjusted, I saw cars and trucks parked haphazardly around, and we were in what looked like a dark abandoned gas station. It was so quiet. I remembered that just 24 hours ago tornados had ripped through the area and left it without power. We drove slowly through the dark and back onto the highway. It was an eerie experience.

    We found a Speedway with the lights on down the road and I fell back asleep, hoping to be able to help drive later that night.

    When I woke up again, we were, once again, in total darkness. Andrew told me we were in a natural area to see the stars, but the directions hadn't led him to a parking area, just the middle of a road. It was dark and empty, and besides the fact that there was nowhere to pull over it seemed like a great stargazing area. Eventually he pulled into a parking area. We got out and were greeted by the local mosquitoes. We tried to see the sky but there were a lot of trees in the way and the air was thick with fog, which got thicker the longer we waited. It was also past 2am and we were both fighting sleep. We tried walking out to what looked like a clearing but it was dark and hard to see and almost walked straight into the aptly named Mud Lake.

    Well, seeing the Perseids was a bust. At least we got a few hours of driving in and didn't have to start in Chicago the next morning. We went to sleep in the humid car with the peaceful thought that we were ahead of "schedule." We probably could have seen the meteors really well in that dark Indiana gas station, but you live you learn.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender
    Picture from a 2019 Saratoga Times article

    The Electric City

    21. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Schenectady is a much smaller city than I was imagining, but it made up for size in it's delectable snack options. I finally got a slice of NY pizza, and we wandered into some tattoo shops to see if we could decorate our cyclist thighs. We got lucky and some artists had availability! I love my shaggy new friend and Andrew got mountains added to the goat he got during our Glacier National Park trip.

    We also wandered into a tea/lunch place where we had one of the best meals of our lives. A ratatouille crepe, red pepper tomato soup, and a forest berry scone. I had been craving fresh fruits and vegetables after trying hard to finish the oatmeal/backpacking meals we had brought - this place hit the spot.

    Schenectady is where George Westinghouse invented the rotary engine and where Thomas Edison founded General Electric, so we wandered to the Museum of Science and Innovation but it was closed. More interesting to me is that Kurt Vonnegut worked here at GE and this is where he ultimately decided to quit and become a writer.

    We got a great deal on a historic hotel that seemed to be completely empty (including staff) but no complaints here. We've spent most of the last three weeks sleeping outside on the ground so a night on the 8th floor of a potentially haunted inn was fine by me!

    We have one more ride to get in, from the Amtrak station in Chicago back to our house. Almost there!    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender
    I searched for an apple cider donut this whole time and squeaked in in the nick of time. Yum!!

    Mohawk River

    20. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Our last day was so easy it felt anti-climatic. 42 flat, paved miles on the Erie Canal/Mohawk River Trail. It almost felt like we were going downhill the whole time but I think my legs are just unused to the flatlands now.

    Neither of us have ever been into trail riding much. It's nice to be away from traffic but it gets boring quick. We played increasingly challenging games of 20 Questions (no limit on questions edition) to pass the time and suddenly we were at our lunch stop in Amsterdam, where there was one of the most beautiful sculptures I've ever seen. A quick couple hours later we made it to Schenectady. Some people just take the trail the whole way across New York. We got lucky that a fellow bike tourer friend warned us off this, because even one day on a trail is enough to make me want to jump ship.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender
    Lunch of champions. Did you know the potato chip was invented here?
    Lunch of champions. Did you know the potato chip was invented here?I remember taking this picture and being glad the clouds were behind us 😆RefugrAndrew channeling his inner camp counselorAm I ever as happy as when I'm in the mountains? I don't know.

    Last day in the dacks

    19. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    We had a merciful, gentle descent out of the Adirondacks: pavement so fresh it was streaming, enough hills to keep things interesting but an overall loss of elevation all the way back to regular old beautiful upstate NY.

     I always enjoy passing by cows and horses. They're generally intrigued by cyclists, and sometimes I feel like they'd be into some good nose scritches.

    The day got a little more dramatic after First Lunch (chips, Snickers, and half a cliff bar each) when clouds started rolling in. We didn't make it long in the absolute maelstrom that followed. Riding in the rain is fine, but it was objectively dangerous to be out on the road so we took shelter in the first place that appeared. Which HAPPENED to be an ice cream-snack stand-campground with a covered pavilion. Well, that was that! How could we leave?    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender
    One of my hobbies is figuring out how to stand my bike up in unlikely places
    One of my hobbies is figuring out how to stand my bike up in unlikely placesSome very dramatic games of golf were played todayThese squirrels were cute but they loved to screamSnack runThere was no one around to take our picture. Had to channel my dad's tripod skillz

    Rest

    18. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Another rainy day off! We did catch a break this time, though, because there was a picnic shelter to hang out in. Got some drawing done, played games, spent a silly amount of time balancing my camera on a rock to take a picture...All in all, just what the doctor ordered for our weary bodies.

    When the rain quieted down, we biked three hilly miles to and from the camp store, motivated by ice cream and the need to grab lunch provisions for tomorrow. Well, they had the ice cream, but lunch tomorrow is gonna be potato chips and candy....    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender
    Andrew carrying wood through the woodsToasty

    Same day, new day

    17. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Traveling by bike really distorts and stretches your sense of time. Days feel like weeks, weeks feel like years. So sometimes when you have a rough day, in the end, it can also be a pretty great one. We had planned on cooking dinner at camp, but were so exhausted we just picked up some sandwiches for the road. The rangers at Moffit Beach State Park were super nice and warned us that our chosen campsite was over two miles away, so they helped us pick a closer one and let us know where we could get wood. We munched on chips by the fire and slept very well in the first comfortable temperatures we've had in a while. Another 55 miles in the books.Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender

    Rough riders

    17. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today is one of the hardest days of riding we've had so far. The climbing is average, the weather is fine, we had a great morning in Schroon Lake checking out the foggy sunrise and munched on some warm cranberry muffins. Yet we're both struggling. Tired, like we've been climbing mountains for days or something, I dunno.

    Luckily we have some trail pizza to keep us going and a day off in one last state park tomorrow.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender
    Action shot

    Perfection achieved

    16. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    If you go long enough, you do *eventually* end up with good riding conditions. It took us 600 miles, but here we are.

    Today: 45 miles. The perfect distance. No rain, no dirt road or single-track trails, partly sunny but not too hot. Wide shoulders and smooth asphalt, markets with fresh homemade blueberry muffins, climbs steep enough to make you feel accomplished but not so steep you have to walk, and long, gentle descents through the alpine forest to beautiful Lake Schroon, where we got some KILLER anchovy artichoke pizza.

    You know that amazing Ticonderoga pencil smell? This whole place smells like that.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender

    Winter is (also) here

    15. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    After a beautiful day of climbing several thousand feet up to and past Lake Placid, we spent a day off considering hiking up a mountain, noping out after a mile, and literally standing in the sun all afternoon basking in the gloriousness of doing nothing but trying to stay warm. Consecutive nights in the 30s aren't what I signed up for, but that's how mountains do, and I'm just happy to be here (and by "here" I mean "right next to the fire").Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender
    My face every day when we finally reach an unexpected donut shop
    My face every day when we finally reach an unexpected donut shopGlazing Saddles won points for this logo but lost points because they're closed Sundays?!A solid contender. Second place.So good we went back for thirds. They really did come from a laundromat!

    Do or donut. There is no try

    15. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    It's been a bit chilly for ice cream, so Andrew and I have been collecting coffee and donut samples across the Adirondacks. For science! After much research and despite claims to the contrary and more appealing marketing at Glazing Saddles, we decided that the BEST donuts in the Adirondacks are found high up in Lake Tupper at Washboard Donuts and Laundromat (yes seriously). Now you know!Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender

    Soggy bottom

    15. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Lake Eaton stayed rainy as we left so we made and ate breakfast in the recycling center, like a couple hi-vis raccoons. It was literally the only shelter in the whole park besides the bathrooms.

    The whole place is guarded by an electric fence at night to keep bears out. Reminds me of a quote from a documentary (or something) I saw on the topic: The hardest part about designing bear-proof infrastructure is that there's a lot of overlap between the smartest bears and the dumbest humans. As a dumb human, I can confirm that recycling is hard sometimes, so I'm glad this park made it so easy!

    Anyway, the rain didn't stop us from enjoying another great mountain ride, and when the sun FINALLY came out we were rewarded with a gorgeous view of a mountaintop wetland    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen FigUpstate New YorkReisender

    First day off

    13. September 2022 in den USA ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    First REAL day off, I mean, like we rode zero miles on our bikes, didn't even look at the things

    ...It rained most of the day. Typical

    We made the best of it and went for a hike with the cheap emergency umbrellas we bought for our first day "off" in Ithaca. Man these things have come in handy! We also played a lot of dice in the tent and treated ourselves to some tasty sodas for dinner (carried uphill in glass bottles - not an insignifcant task!).

    All in all, not a bad day, and my body needed it - we rode for 14 consecutive days!    Weiterlesen

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