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Combined sightseeing, pilgrimage, and volunteer trip Leer más

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  • España
  • Italia
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Mochilero*a, Cultura
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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Tapas crawl in Logroño

    8 de marzo, España ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    This morning, I washed our "evening clothes" at the laundromat. They don't get worn but a couple of hours each night and haven't been washed since Italy!

    Yesterday we went and bought Phil a new pack so he stayed back and worked on it while I washed clothes. He thinks he will keep it, so we'll donate his old pack before we leave Logroño at one of the albergues.

    After chores, we took the bus to Calle San Juan (St John Street). This is a very narrow pedestrian street with little bars and restaurants on either side. A man walking his dog told us it was a "locals" hangout, and the other popular Calle Laurel (Laurel Street) was more for tourists.

    We walked to the far end and stopped in places that looked good. In our first place, Phil had a grilled sausage sandwich, and I had a scallop grilled on the flat top. In our second place, we ordered the winners of the tapas contests in 2023 and 2024. Both were cooked to order while we waited. In our third place, Phil had a fried cod and pepper sandwich, and I had bread topped with pickled peppers and anchovies. At the 4th place, we had tacos. The 5th place had a bunch of Michelin Star stickers out front and was packed, so we elbowed our way up to the bar. I had "tears of ribs with rice in gravy". Phil had tempura fried cod and lobster on a stick.

    Our last stop was dessert. You could watch the pastry chef through a glass wall. Phil picked me out some kind of chocolate thing, and he had cheesecake made with cambebert cheese. We both had coffee.

    It was raining by the time we finished dessert, so we headed to a grocery store to get some provisions for the next two days. Then we ride the bus back.

    Sorry, but everything was so yummy that we forgot to take pictures of most of it, but I have posted what we did remember to snap before eating.

    Tomorrow, we will try to go to church since it is Sunday.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Rest day 2 in Logroño

    9 de marzo, España ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    This morning, we had the AC Hotel breakfast. A huge buffet spread with hot and cold items, fruit, pastries, cereal, but sorry Matthew, no biscuits (or gravy). Afterward, we walked to church at the Church of Santiago Real. On our way, we donated Phil's old pack at the albergue associated with the church.

    It was a nice service. Today's homily was about Christ being temped by Satan in the desert. There was a youth group visiting which sang for the congregation after the service.

    Then we walked back toward the hotel and stopped for lunch at the same place as 2 days ago. Lots of large, multigenerational families dining together. The waitress had to check to make sure there was room for us since we had no reservation. We were at a tiny table in a back room!

    Today, I actually chose the bean soup (not tripe by mistake as I did the other day). Then I had a stewed rabbit for my main course. We had apples for dessert. We cut up and split one and took the other with us for tomorrow's walk.

    Now we are at the laundromat again washing our walking clothes so we can start fresh tomorrow. I know it seems we talk about laundry a lot, but when you only have two outfits and 3 changes of undies, laundry is an important and necessary task.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    1

    Navarette

    10 de marzo, España ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    This morning , we took the bus across town and out near a park that is about halfway between Logroño and Navarette. There were a few tense moments as I tried to figure out the bus transfer from Bus 1 to Bus M1, but a nice lady pointed out the correct bus shelter for us.

    It was kind of a cool, dreary day, but not raining. We are walking now in Rioja, which is a state in Spain and also a well-known wine region.

    We passed the site of a 12th century pilgrim albergue. In the Middle Ages, they were often called hospitals because lots of pilgrims got sick on the journey.

    Tonight, we are staying at El Cantaro. The last syllable has an accent mark that I can't figure out with my phone. Anyway, a cantaro is some kind of water pitcher or clay jug.

    We are cleaning up, and then we'll walk around town a little. Tomorrow we walk to Najera.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Najera

    11 de marzo, España ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    We had a nice evening talking with a Spanish couple and a girl from Ukraine. We slept well.

    We were out walking by 8 am. It was cool but initially not raining. We stopped for a coffee in Ventosa and then walked on. We had sandwiches about halfway and it was time for the rain ponchos after that.

    In Najera, we have about 30 pilgrims total which is a lot for winter. Phil and I could volunteer here in the future as they are also run by volunteers.

    Tomorrow we go about 8 miles. We have a private room booked as there really isn't much open for pilgrims for the next 12 to 15 miles tomorrow.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Alesenco

    12 de marzo, España ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Today, we are in a town a short distance from the Camino. It was too far to walk to some of the other towns, but this one was the right distance. It was a beautiful but chilly walk today.

    We are surrounded by vineyards here, and even in the cold, damp air, the farmers are out tending their vines in anticipation of spring.

    We also saw several chukars today. That is a game bird, smaller than a pheasant, but larger than a quail. We've seen some here other years, too, so the habitat must be good.

    Tomorrow, we walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The town is named after a saint who built roads and bridges for pilgrims on this route.

    It is supposed to be raining in the morning and might snow a little tomorrow night.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    13 de marzo, España ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    We have had a long, cold, wet day, but we are finally here! We are in a nice apartment for 2 nights.

    It was lightly raining when we left this morning, and we dropped pur ponchos over our packs. Soon, it was raining harder, so we put them on properly and wore them the rest of the day.

    Today's walk was muddy and hilly. We saw a lot of pilgrims, including one who had apparently adopted Phil's old pack in Logroño. We are glad the pack has a new owner . We also stopped at a golf course club house bar that was about halfway on the journey. It was packed with pilgrims, but not a golfer in sight in this rain!

    Phil's resting, and I am doing some washing (again). We have a nice kitchen, so I will go out in a little bit and get something to cook for supper.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Rest day in Santo Domingo

    14 de marzo, España ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    It's a quiet day for us. We are resting up and taking care of chores as we begin our volunteer work tomorrow. We are in a nice comfortable apartment with 2 bedrooms. It allows us to cook in instead of eating out.

    Today, we made appointments at a local salon for me to get a haircut and Phil to get his toenails trimmed. They could not work us in until 6:30 pm, though! In Spain, businesses often close in the middle of the day for a few hours, and workers often work until 7 or later. That means stores are often closed in the afternoon and then reopen in the evening.

    Tomorrow we will decide if we will walk to Grañón or take the bus. The weather has turned cold again, but as long as it isn't raining, we will probably walk.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Grañón Handoff

    15 de marzo, España ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    We walked about 4 miles to our albergue today. It was cold and spitting snow. We stopped for a Spanish Hamburgesa before heading to the church/albergue.

    Chose and Inaki are two Spanish men finishing their volunteer time. Chose will leave tonight and Inaki tomorrow.

    More about the albergue later. Phil and I are hearing of storms back home, and a report of 3 killed in our county.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Hospitalero Day 1

    16 de marzo, España ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Well, it's been a very interesting day. Two pilgrims got up and left before dawn. We said goodbye to our pilgrims and then met the new priest.

    We attended Mass, and then our mentor took us to a late lunch. When we came back, we had 20 pilgrims in the house!

    Right now, pilgrims are cooking supper. They have made a salad. We are going to have Spanish tortilla and a Spanish pilgrims have stepped in and taken charge. I can tell that they are worried that it won't be enough. Usually it is...we will see.

    Pilgrims are playing the guitar and the piano. It's a festive atmosphere.    Leer más

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Hospitalero day 2

    17 de marzo, España ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We said goodbye to our 20 pilgrims and set into cleaning. We have already. Who knows how many we will eventually have tonight.

    We have a plumber coming tonight and there will be a 3 day project to update the showers. We hope we will have water. There another shower system downstairs, but it is less convenient. The priest will let us know what we are to do.Leer más

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