France
Roche d'Offre

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    • Day 4

      Le Puy to Saint-Privat d'Allier

      April 22 in France ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

      That was cold!

      The time zone doesn't feel quite right, but close. We waited a little in the hope that a bag might turn up by 830, but that was not to be, so we joined the trickle of people going past our room and on to Spain (in some cases). I was cold, but not too bad. We were out of the town in no time, then walking on country paths and tracks most of the day. The was the odd flurry of tiny snow-flakes, as for the night before, and a cold wind when we were on open ground. Mostly through farms and fields, one or two little forests or nature reserves, and three little towns. Had it been sunny, warm and pleasant outside we would have stopped and taken a few long breaks, but it wasn't, so we didn't. Being so "bracing", it felt better to keep moving.

      Around 12;30 it seemed to be colder - although we were also up to around 1200m high - and the wind and snow flurries picked up. We decided it was cold when we walked past a few path-side puddles that had thick ice on them. By the time we reached Saint-Privat we had very cold hands. Also felt a bit cheated: having gone from 650m to 1210m quite smoothly, we went down a long, steep hill and lost a good few 100m in altitude. Cheated of all that effort in such a short time!

      Saint-Privat is a small and pretty village ( pop 400) which seems to be funded by pilgrims/tourist walkers. It has an 11th C church, and almost all the buildings are stone. It is very French, in that we arrived here around 2:15 but everything - even the hotel - was closed until 3pm. The hotel is very basic, but it has intermittent wifi, and one hopes the heaters work once turned on.

      Still no bag. Frequent expressions of empathy from Air France, but they say they have given it to someone to deliver, and they have no control over anything after that, so could be any time and any place on any day. Soon, and a place we are at would be helpful, but we do not have high expectations. Being cold has been good in one way - no sweaty clothes - but a few extra layers would be appreciated. Air France suggested buying them, which would be fine if the shops weren't shut on Sundays in Le Puy, and if Saint-Privat had one other than the garage, the bakery and the butcher!

      Dinner in the hotel tonight. They had a choice of two for each course, so we took each one. Anne's bacon and mushroom vol-a-vente was good.

      Hotel: La Vielle Auberge: 1. standing out in the snow until they opened at 3 with a group, including a man who did 6 months as an exchange student in Bankstown, 2 the creaky Caves House 1990 style stairs, 3. the wifi that worked only with an open door. 4 View across the valley to the church, 5 lovely wide bread, less so the baguette, 6 very rustic, but huge double basin in the bathroom, and no soap.

      Count so far is 32,200 steps and 24.3km/ 83 flights. As the distance we did today (so far) is almost universally set at 24km, and we did a few little extra excursions, the app measuring distance is around 10% out as it showed 22.3 kms when we were first here. It also says Anne’s steps are c 50 % longer than mine. Just saying.
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    Roche d'Offre

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