MATARANKA TO HOLTZE 5/8/21 to 16/8/21

MATARANKA TO HOLTZE 6/8/21 to 16/8/21
After setting up at Mataranka Homestead caravan park in a big dusty area along with lots of other caravans we walked down the boardwalk, through a forest of tall palm trees to the nearby hot springs which were quite crowded with people of all ages enjoying the warm water. The very clear pool had steps down into the water and the edges were lined with rocks so it was easily accessible and the area was lovely and shady. Nearby was a fenced off area where the water was bubbling up from beneath the earth and as the water flowed beyond the bathing area it entered a huge pond which forms part of the Roper River. The campground had a bar and restaurant and nightly entertainment including a whip cracking show by Australian champion Nathan “Whippy” Griggs which we found to be fun to watch. The next morning I went for another swim before breakfast which was superb. The mist was rising off the water in the cooler morning air and there were few people in the water. Frank walked along a track to the Roper River and spotted a fresh water croc in the water but it disappeared beneath the surface as he arrived. During the day we looked through the historic Elsey Homestead which is really a replica of the original homestead which stood several kilometres away, and was built for the film “We of the Never Never”. After two nights at Mataranka we headed north again along the Stuart Highway and stopped at Cutta Cutta caves where we joined a guided tour into the caves which are dry limestone, meaning very little water seeps down over the stalactites during the dry season. However they become flooded during the wet season. As a result there was lots of weathering of the rock in the huge caverns. The temperature inside became hotter and more humid as we walked further into the cave as there was no airflow through the system. After our tour we drove on to Katherine where we checked in to the caravan park on the eastern side of town. During our stay in Katherine we visited the hot springs near town for a dip in the natural waterholes connected by small rapids in a lovely shaded area. I visited the museum on another day where there was information on many aspects of Katherine’s history. We also made a couple of day trips during our time there. First was to Leilyn (Edith Falls) which were a 60km drive to the national park where we headed off on the loop trail walk to view the falls from the rim of the gorge. They were very picturesque with a big waterhole beneath where lots of people were swimming. We continued our walk, looking down into the gorge in various places. After a tiring day of walking in the heat we drove back to our campsite in Katherine. The following day we drove to Nitmiluk National Park where Katherine Gorge is located. First we tackled the 5km loop walk where we climbed many steps up to the lookout where we had great views down into the gorge with the Katherine River flowing through its base. The weather was hot so our walk along the loop trail was exhausting and we needed every drop of water we carried. On returning to the information centre we found a shady spot on the grass for a well earned rest. Later in the afternoon we had booked our sunset dinner cruise and boarded our vessel which cruised up the gorge where the views were stunning. The ochre coloured cliffs soared 50 metres above on either side and the guide pointed out a fresh water crocodile on the banks and gave lots of information about the area. We disembarked at the half way point and walked further along the base, past some ancient rock art and boarded a second vessel for the cruise up the next part of the gorge. Again the views were superb with the sheer cliffs on either side and small sandy beaches with green vegetation in places. Returning to the disembarkation point, we walked back to our first vessel where our dinner tables had been set up and as we slowly floated back downstream we enjoyed a lovely three course dinner while watching the changing colours on the cliffs and reflections on the water as the sun set. At one point hundreds of fruit bats flew overhead on their nightly journey up the gorge to feed. During the day they roosted in the trees near the mooring point for the cruises. After an interesting time in Katherine we headed off again passing through Pine Creek and Emerald Springs to Adelaide River where we stopped to have a look around the very well-kept WWII cemetery where there are graves of Australian Defense Force personnel who died in the northern part of Australia. Continuing, we turned off into Litchfield National Park and checked into a caravan park near the small town of Batchelor where we set up on a grassy area beneath the trees. Here we stayed for three nights and went on day trips within the park. First we visited Wangi Falls, passing lots of giant termite mounds scattered amongst the trees. These twin falls with large waterhole beneath were a popular swimming spot. We continued to Tolmer falls which we viewed from a lookout, then on to Florence falls and Buley rockhole where we cooled off in the clear water beneath the falls and also in the rockhole. We enjoyed dinner at the Batchelor Motel/Bistro in the evening. On another day we visited an area called the Lost City which has unusual, weathered rock formations which resemble old ruins and then ventured down a rough dirt track where the Pajero negotiated a half metre deep creek crossing before continuing to an old 1928 homestead ruins and old tin mine and then on to Sandy Creek Falls car park but as the temperature was already 36C we were reluctant to tackle the 5km round trip walk to see the falls which had little water flowing anyway. After an enjoyable time in Litchfield we headed out, stopping on the way to see the Cascades where we made the short but rugged walk in to the very picturesque and green, shady area with a waterfall and lots of rapids in the clear water of the creek. We drove on, passing through Berry Springs and on to Holtze which is near Palmerston. Having previously met a couple who live on a property which is 22 km from Darwin we decided to take up their offer to camp on their property in a bush setting with power and water and use of bathroom facilities. The morning after arriving we learned that the Darwin area was about to go into a three day Covid lockdown so no trips to see Darwin for a few days.Read more