AustraliaVictoriaMonashGlen Waverley37°52’34” S 145°10’34” E June 20, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
We're making an escape from Melbourne on Tuesday 22nd and heading to country Victoria for a couple of weeks before crossing the border to South Australia.
AustraliaSouth AustraliaRenmark34°10’44” S 140°43’50” E
June 23, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
TOP END TRIP - MELBOURNE TO RENMARK
The journey begins…..
We finally made our escape from Melbourne on 22/6/21. Our first stop was Campbells Creek where we spent an enjoyable night with the Gissings, camping in their driveway. The next day we headed off to St. Arnaud, driving in the rain most of the way and set up camp there for the night. From St. Arnaud we headed off next morning to hit the silo art trail around the Wimmera/Mallee area. Our first stop was Rupanyup where the silos were painted in black and white portraits of two local youngsters in their sporting gear, then off we drove to Murtoa to have a look at the heritage listed Stick Shed which is a really impressive structure. The huge corrugated iron shed was built during WWII to store grain and is as big as 5 Olympic sized swimming pools and has 560 tall poles, some almost 20 metres high holding up its enormous roof. It’s a bit like an enormous cathedral inside and to think it only took four months to build back in 1941 proves how hard they must have worked. It was used to store grain until 1989. Next we headed north to Sheep Hills where the silos were painted very colourfully with portraits of four indigenous locals. Off we travelled past the Brim silos with their sepia portraits of four local farmers and on to Roseberry which also had sepia artworks of two locals.
After spending a night in Hopetoun we travelled on to see the Lascelles silos which were again painted in sepia style of local identities. The next town we headed to was Nullawil where the beautiful artwork depicted a black and tan working Kelpie dog and his master. This was my favourite as not only was it really detailed but the dog looked just like our old Kelpie, Dexter. Our next stop was Sea Lake where the immense artwork reflects the pink and orange colours of the nearby Lake Tyrrell sunsets. This one showed a young indigenous girl on a swing. Our final stop was at Patchewollock to see the local farmer nicknamed “Noodle” painted on the silos. Each of the sites was unique and well worth going out of our way to see. We spent the night at Ouyen caravan park.
On the morning of 26th June we set off towards the South Australia border and after stopping to dispose of (and eat) any fruit we were carrying we entered the fruit fly exclusion zone and the S.A. border. We had applied for and been granted our Covid border passes so when we stopped at the border checkpoint it was a relatively easy process and we didn’t even have to show proof of our access pass and found that there isn’t even a requirement to be Covid tested when entering now. We drove on to Renmark and checked in to the caravan park next to the Murray River.Read more
AustraliaSouth AustraliaPort AugustaCentral Oval32°29’28” S 137°46’24” E
June 27, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
RENMARK TO PORT AUGUSTA – 27/6/2021 to 6/7/2021
After a one night stay in Renmark we headed off through the small towns of Morgan, Burra and Peterborough to our destination at Orroroo. These small towns have some lovely old stone buildings and houses. The mountain ranges around this area are mostly treeless and weathered to a smooth looking, undulating surface and are dotted with dozens of wind turbines. We arrived in Orroroo and decided to organize our Covid tests at the small local hospital just to be on the safe side even though we were told at the border that it wasn’t compulsory. We drove to view the huge river red gum tree near town which famously has a girth of 10.6 metres – a real giant! After our night in Orroroo we decided to purchase some of the local café’s award winning pies (which were very tasty) and headed off through the pretty town of Wilmington. The road wound its way through a mountain range and down towards Port Augusta and the Spencer Gulf arriving mid afternoon. We have seen hundreds of wind turbines on mountain ranges on our trip in S.A. so far. After getting set up in camp I hit the laundry after learning that the washing machines and dryers were free – bonus!! The weather is beautiful – 18C and sunny. Frank discovered that one of the air bags which form part of the rear suspension on the Pajero is split and although it doesn’t prevent us driving, he decided it was better to get it replaced before we get onto any rough dirt roads but finding one in S.A. is harder than expected so it had to be ordered and sent over from Victoria which meant that we were to remain in Port Augusta until 6th July. We decided to do some day trips during that time. First we drove to Quorn which is north towards the Flinders Ranges and is the town that the old Ghan railway line still operates to. Called the Pichi Richi Railway it passes through the famous Pichi Richi Pass and finishes at the historic Quorn railway station. Unfortunately it wasn’t running on the day we were there and not to be seen. The original Ghan line was built in 1879 to Quorn before being extended to Marree, Oodnadatta and Alice Springs and was used extensively during WWII to carry troops bound for Darwin. Some 50 trains a day ran at that time. The town of Quorn has some lovely old buildings including some large hotels which sit prominently on street corners. We drove a loop road around the area to see Warren Gorge and a couple of lookouts which gave views over to the Flinders Ranges. On another day we drove south to Whyalla which is famous for being the first Steelworks site in Australia as well as for its ship building. We had good views of the town and the Spencer Gulf and overlooked the new circular jetty. This area of the gulf is the breeding grounds of the giant cuttlefish and there are numerous cuttlefish artworks around the town. We also took a trip another day to Port Pirie which is also an industrial town – this one has one of the largest lead smelters in the world. It is situated on the opposite side of the Spencer Gulf to Whyalla and has a lovely historic railway station in the centre of town and other well kept old buildings. On other days in Port Augusta time was spent in the arid region Botanic Garden which had some unusual species of eucalypts and acacias etc. Also the Wadlata Outback Centre which had displays of all things relevant to the Flinders Ranges area dating back to the creation of the area to the Aboriginal dreaming stories, to the history of European settlement. There was a lot information about the beginning of the Ghan railway line. It was an amazing “tunnel of time”.Read more
AustraliaSouth AustraliaCoober PedyStuart Range Bore No 128°58’30” S 134°45’15” E
July 6, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
PORT AUGUSTA to COOBER PEDY 6/7/21 – 10/7/21
After spending 8 days in Port Augusta we finally headed off on our journey north with the new airbags fitted to the car. First stop was the town of Woomera which was once the experimental rocket range used during 1960’s to 1980’s. The town is still home to A.I.F. personnel. The visitor centre had a museum with information on the rocket testing and outside displays of old aircraft and rockets. We headed off to Roxby Downs where we stayed for the night. The countryside around was mainly flat plains with typical red soil and little vegetation apart from clumping grasses and low growing bushes. There were some areas of red sand dunes dotted with spinifex grass. Roxby Downs is a neat looking town which is home to many of the mine workers from the Olympic Dam BHP mine site nearby. The dam and mine site are inaccessible to the public so we weren’t able to see the dam at all which was a bit disappointing. The following day’s drive took us back to the Stuart Highway and north towards Glendambo where we planned to spend the night. We passed plains which were flat to the horizon - either red soil or gibber stones dotted with spinifex. We stopped to view a couple of mostly dry, large lakes. One was Island lagoon and the other Lake Hart and both had a very white looking surface which I suspect was salt. Glendambo consists of a Hotel and a service station and camping is at the rear of the pub. We enjoyed a drink at the pub after tea. The next morning we headed off, bound for Coober Pedy. The weather has been gradually getting warmer during the day. As we neared Coober Pedy we saw lots of evidence of opal mining with huge areas covered with mullock heaps and the landscape became a little hillier. We camped at the Opal caravan park and during the three days we were there we visited some of the tourist sites including a couple of underground churches named the Catacomb (named after the Catacombs in Rome) and a Serbian church. Each was unique and beautiful inside. We also went to see the Old Timers Mine and Museum which also housed an opal shop. It was fascinating to learn about how the people lived and carried out their mining with mostly hand tools back in the early 1900’s. We also saw an underground home at this site complete with 1960’s furniture. We also visited a much more modern underground Desert Cave Hotel complex which also contained more history and information on the area. The Coober Pedy landscape is unique! Because of the dry climate there is no grass anywhere, just red dirt and only a few trees and the hills around the town are all excavated for underground houses or mining and the entrances are little more than a door and maybe a carport next to it. There are mullock hills and old machinery and wrecked cars rusting away everywhere and the community is made up of many different nationalities and a large community of Aboriginal people. It is the opal capital of the world, producing more than 80% of the world’s opal. We also took a half day drive out to an area called The Breakaways which is a mountain range which has been eroded away over millions of years leaving only mesas standing. The colours of these bare mountains range from the familiar reds and browns to very pale sand colour and the effect is very different. All around are gibber plains with only sparce vegetation. On our return journey we passed huge areas of mining activity on a big scale with lots of heavy equipment used to gouge out the open cut areas. On our last evening in Coober Pedy we treated ourselves to the famous John’s Pizza (which they told us was in the top five in the world!) We then drove to the drive-in and parked on the red dirt mounds to watch the movie Cruella. We hadn’t been to a drive-in movie for about fifty years!!Read more
Thanks for the informative commentary. I passed through Coober Pedy in 1967 on a bus tour to Central Australia, looks much the same above ground. looking forward to the next update. Safe travel. Chris and Gordon [Perram]
I'm glad you went to the Breakaways. Spectacular views. Great trip. Keep enjoying. [Cynthia Fletcher]
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryMacDonnellNew Bore25°17’4” S 130°56’6” E
July 11, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
COOBER PEDY TO YULARA – 11/7/21 TO 17/7/21
After filling up our water tanks for $1 for 30 litres at the only place where water was available for purchase, we headed north again and turned off the Stuart Highway towards the Painted Desert along a very corrugated dirt road towards a station named Arkaringa. We paid our $20 to stay there for the night (which allowed us toilet and hot shower facilities) in a large dusty area near the homestead along with about a dozen other campers. After unhooking, we drove along more rough and corrugated road to see the Painted Hills which are similar to the Breakaways (which we saw near Coober Pedy) but these were more expansive and quite beautiful. The weather eroded ranges which have little vegetation looked spectacular in the late afternoon sun which brought out the richness of the ochre colours which were in contrast to other pale sand-coloured areas of the rocks. On our return to camp we watched the sun set over the flat plains. The next morning we drove back to the Stuart Highway passing many flat topped and weathered ranges and mesas as well as flat gibber plains covered in clumping grasses and some undulating areas where rows of trees indicated dry creek beds. We arrived at the Marla roadhouse and set up camp in the caravan area at the back which soon became packed with vans. There have been more caravans on the road than we have seen on any of our other trips. In the camp grounds Frank met by chance a chap who he knew from working days and we later enjoyed a drink and dinner in the roadhouse bar with him and his wife. The next morning saw us heading north again along the Stuart Highway’s straight stretches of road, passing more weathered mountain ranges and huge expanses of open plains. There was an endless stream of caravans heading south (we nearly got RSI from giving each one the Wave!!) We finally reached the N.T. border and with our border passes already arranged we stopped at the N.T. police checkpoint for our Covid entry to be checked. Driving on we came to another roadhouse at Erldunda, situated at the junction of the Lasseter Highway which leads to Yulara where we stopped for the night. The weather became warmer reaching 31C in the afternoon. Next morning we headed off towards Yulara passing the Mt Ebenezer roadhouse and many red sandhills covered in clumping vegetation and some areas of acacia and desert oak trees. There was no livestock or wildlife to be seen. We stopped at the Mt. Conner lookout to view the immense flat-topped mountain before continuing to Yulara. Soon the familiar shape of Uluru became visible in the distance. We arrived at the Ayers Rock Camp Ground situated within the huge Yulara resort complex. Because we were a day earlier than our booking, we stayed a night in the overflow, red dirt area at the rear of the ground before moving to our booked powered site for our three-night stay. On our first day we drove the 18km to Uluru and went on a walk part way along the base of the rock. We saw caves in places and huge curved rock overhangs, one with Aboriginal rock paintings. Higher up on the rock are huge potholes where pieces of rock have broken away and other areas where waterfalls have stained the red sandstone surface a black colour. From a distance the rock seems smooth except for the undulations which have formed from weathering over millions of years. However, on closer viewing the surface has a crusty, scaly appearance. After returning to the car we drove around the entire base of Uluru, viewing it from every direction. There are enormous valleys and folds which have eroded over time. We called in to the cultural centre which gave traditional stories about the formation from an Aboriginal perspective. We went on to a sunset viewing area where we waited and watched the rock turn vivid orange in the rays of the setting sun and finally a darker brown as twilight fell. The sky behind the rock seemed to have a subtle pinkish/mauve colour. The following day we drove 50km to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) which are just as impressive as Uluru although much taller and instead of sandstone, they’re made of conglomerate rock. The huge rounded domes have been eroded over time. There are enormous cracks in some sections which have weathered into canyons. Our first walk was into one of these canyons called Walpa Gorge and after a steep climb we entered a sheltered gorge with green vegetation and sheer red cliffs rising on either side. At the head of the gorge was a small fresh water spring. Our next walk took us to an area called the Valley of the Winds where we tackled another steep rocky climb past more rugged soaring red cliffs to a lookout. After our return to Uluru in the evening we went on a bus tour to the Uluru Field of Light display. On disembarking we were amazed at the enormity and beauty of the Field of Light. We made our way in the darkness along pathways out into the field where slender stems topped with a frosted glass sphere were illuminated in different subtle colours. The 50,000 lights seemed to stretch to the horizon. We were lucky to be allowed to climb to a sand dune for a better view and it was stunning. We could see that the lights had circular patterns of different colours and the dark shape of Uluru could just be seen in the distance beyond the lights. Our last day at Yulara was spent catching up on chores and maintenance in readiness for our drive to Kings Canyon.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryAlice SpringsBraitlingAlice Springs Telegraph Station Historical Reserve23°40’36” S 133°53’7” E
July 18, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C
YULARA TO ALICE SPRINGS 18/7/2021 to 24/7/2021
After our four night stay at Yulara we headed off towards Kings Canyon, backtracking 136 km along the Lasseter Hwy and then turning north. The countryside became greener with areas of scrubland as well as red sand dunes. On the way we saw a dingo, a few camels and some wedge-tailed eagles. After setting up at the Kings Canyon Resort camp ground which was very dry and dusty we walked to a sunset viewing platform nearby to watch the changing colours on the rocky George Gill Range. Next morning we headed off about 9am for the short drive to the canyon car park where we began our 6km Rim Walk. After a steep climb up many stone steps we reached an area 100 metres above the carpark where we had great views of the rugged range and the plains beyond, before continuing on the circuit over rocky and uneven surfaces which required us to constantly watch our step but the views were worth it. At one lookout point was a deep gorge with sheer flat sandstone cliffs on either side. At another section we descended a staircase to a bridge over a ravine with a waterhole and lots of green vegetation beneath us. After a tiring day we enjoyed a meal at the Outback BBQ within the resort. The next day we drove to nearby Kathleen Springs Gorge and headed off on an easy 2.6km flat walk through an area of grassland and small shrubs with a row of river red gums indicating the course of the dry Kathleen Creek. Because of rain some weeks before our visit, there are a lot of wildflowers, mainly mauve coloured, hairy flowers on low growing shrubs and seed heads on some grasses. At the head of the gorge was a lovely tranquil area of shaded green vegetation and a waterhole fed by a permanent spring with the red cliffs rising on either side. The next day, the decision having been made, we headed off on the Mereenie Loop dirt road from Kings Canyon to the MacDonnell Ranges and after letting down the tyre pressures we tackled what turned out to be one of the roughest dirt roads we’ve ever encountered. It was punishing on both the car and caravan, not to mention US!! The MacDonnell Ranges became visible in the distance and soon we were driving between two arms of the range. Finally, after about four grueling hours we came to the sealed road again and after a short stop at Tylers Pass lookout where we had views of Gosse Bluff and other parts of the West MacDonnell Ranges we drove on. We found the access road to a free-camp at Finke River 2 Mile (opposite the closed Glen Helen Resort) which had been recommended by fellow travellers. Unfortunately, in maneuvering the car and van in a tight turn, we got bogged up to the axles in the soft river sand but fortunately there were other helpful campers who came to lend a hand and we were successfully pulled out. We set up on the harder surface of river pebbles with a view across the Finke River where some brave souls were swimming. On inspecting the van for damage from the extreme vibrations on the dirt road, I found that I had forgotten to put rubber bands on every container in the fridge and many jars had lost their lids including a jar of minced garlic which had emptied its contents all over the fridge and the stench was something to behold!!! IT WAS NOT A GOOD DAY. To cap it off the fridge would not run on gas and running it on our batteries meant that our battery power expired about midnight so we had no power for even running the water pump. Fortunately, next day Frank discovered a couple of wires had become disconnected at the back of the fridge and fixed it and the sun allowed our solar panels to recharge the batteries. Over the next three days we made our way along Larapinta Drive, stopping overnight at campsites within the national parks. During the days we visited Glen Helen Gorge, Ormiston Gorge, the Ochre Pits, Ellery Creek Big Hole, Serpentine Gorge, Standley Chasm and Simpsons Gap. All the gorges were stunningly beautiful and different, some requiring more steep climbing of rock steps or rock-hopping over river boulders but it was all worth the effort to see such amazing places. Nearly all the gorges had a waterhole and some had big river-sand beaches with majestic river red gums growing. The soaring red and rugged cliffs rising 50 to 80 metres on either side made them cool and shady places. In some gorges there were flocks of bright green budgerigars which would fly through the chasm, land briefly to drink and then take off in a flurry of wings and fly straight towards us, rising at the last moment to avoid us. We drove on to Alice Springs where we had booked a site for a week at a caravan park, passing more of the rugged MacDonnell Ranges as we proceeded. The undulating ranges are mostly topped with a “spine” of exposed rugged red rock making them look like a giant serpent has been buried in the earth and just its spiky spine is visible.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryRoper GulfMoray Hill14°50’14” S 133°3’54” E
July 26, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
ALICE SPRINGS TO MATARANKA 25/7 to 6/8/21
During our stay in Alice Springs we strolled along Todd Mall where we bought a painting from an Aboriginal woman who was displaying her artwork on a grassed area in the mall, and walked down to the dry, sandy bed of the Todd River nearby. The weather was becoming a lot warmer with temperatures in the low 30’s. We did a day trip to Hermannsburg where there is an old Lutheran mission which was established in 1877. The mission was a refuge for local Arranta Aboriginal people until the mid 1900’s. We looked through the old whitewashed buildings including the church, residences, dormitories and a tannery and also enjoyed morning tea of apple strudel and scones on a verandah of one of the old residences which had been coverted into tea rooms. On another day trip we drove to Ross River resort, stopping at Trephina Gorge on the way where we walked along the sandy creekbed and climbed the rocky steps to the rim of the gorge where we had views down into the base. After driving on we stopped at the Ross River Homestead hotel for lunch. On our return journey we stopped at Corroboree Rock which is a tall, narrow dolomite rock formation which stands alone in the landscape and was formed 800 million years ago when the area was a salt lake. We also stopped at Jessie Gap for a short walk along the sandy base before continuing to Alice Springs. Before leaving Alice Springs we took advantage of a local carwash where we were able to remove most of the outback dust from the car and van. After an enjoyable few days in Alice Springs we headed north and stopped briefly at Aileron where there is a 17 metre tall sculpture of an Aboriginal man on top of a hill at the rear of the roadhouse. Continuing, we stopped briefly at Barrow Creek roadhouse hotel where we looked inside the quirky old pub before driving on to Wycliffe Well where we camped beside the roadhouse in an area which was once a big outback resort complete with disused indoor pool, miniature train track, function room and restaurant. Most of the disused buildings were adorned with murals of aliens etc. as Wycliffe is claimed to be the UFO capital of Australia. Next day our drive took us north along more long, straight stretches of the Stuart Highway until we stopped to have a look around the Devils Marbles. Here we saw the enormous rounded granite boulders which appear to be stacked on top of one another over a huge area. Erosion over millions of years has caused this unique effect. We then drove on to Tennant Creek where we set up camp for a couple of days. During our stay we drove a short distance from town to see the old telegraph station historic stone buildings which were erected in the 1870’s when the telegraph line was built between Adelaide and Darwin. On another day we looked through the old Battery Hill Mining Centre and museum with information on the old gold mine. After leaving Tennant Creek we again headed north, passing through Elliot and camping at a roadside stop near Newcastle Waters where a lot of other caravans had also parked. The daytime temperature was steadily climbing into the mid-thirties. The next day we drove on to the Hi-Way Inn Roadhouse near Daly Waters. We were pleased to see our site was on green grass which we hadn’t seen for weeks and the rates were a very reasonable $28 per night with a free drink voucher for each of us in the pub! After unhitching our van we drove about 5km to the historic Daly Waters Pub for lunch and what a wacky place it was! It was very old and quite dilapidated but extremely well patronized. Every available wall was covered in signatures and the rafters were hung with caps, t-shirts and even bras and undies. After our lunch we drove back to our campsite at the Hi-Way Inn and enjoyed our complimentary drinks at the bar. The next day we drove on to Mataranka.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryPalmerston12°33’50” S 130°59’31” E
August 6, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
MATARANKA TO HOLTZE 6/8/21 to 16/8/21
After setting up at Mataranka Homestead caravan park in a big dusty area along with lots of other caravans we walked down the boardwalk, through a forest of tall palm trees to the nearby hot springs which were quite crowded with people of all ages enjoying the warm water. The very clear pool had steps down into the water and the edges were lined with rocks so it was easily accessible and the area was lovely and shady. Nearby was a fenced off area where the water was bubbling up from beneath the earth and as the water flowed beyond the bathing area it entered a huge pond which forms part of the Roper River. The campground had a bar and restaurant and nightly entertainment including a whip cracking show by Australian champion Nathan “Whippy” Griggs which we found to be fun to watch. The next morning I went for another swim before breakfast which was superb. The mist was rising off the water in the cooler morning air and there were few people in the water. Frank walked along a track to the Roper River and spotted a fresh water croc in the water but it disappeared beneath the surface as he arrived. During the day we looked through the historic Elsey Homestead which is really a replica of the original homestead which stood several kilometres away, and was built for the film “We of the Never Never”. After two nights at Mataranka we headed north again along the Stuart Highway and stopped at Cutta Cutta caves where we joined a guided tour into the caves which are dry limestone, meaning very little water seeps down over the stalactites during the dry season. However they become flooded during the wet season. As a result there was lots of weathering of the rock in the huge caverns. The temperature inside became hotter and more humid as we walked further into the cave as there was no airflow through the system. After our tour we drove on to Katherine where we checked in to the caravan park on the eastern side of town. During our stay in Katherine we visited the hot springs near town for a dip in the natural waterholes connected by small rapids in a lovely shaded area. I visited the museum on another day where there was information on many aspects of Katherine’s history. We also made a couple of day trips during our time there. First was to Leilyn (Edith Falls) which were a 60km drive to the national park where we headed off on the loop trail walk to view the falls from the rim of the gorge. They were very picturesque with a big waterhole beneath where lots of people were swimming. We continued our walk, looking down into the gorge in various places. After a tiring day of walking in the heat we drove back to our campsite in Katherine. The following day we drove to Nitmiluk National Park where Katherine Gorge is located. First we tackled the 5km loop walk where we climbed many steps up to the lookout where we had great views down into the gorge with the Katherine River flowing through its base. The weather was hot so our walk along the loop trail was exhausting and we needed every drop of water we carried. On returning to the information centre we found a shady spot on the grass for a well earned rest. Later in the afternoon we had booked our sunset dinner cruise and boarded our vessel which cruised up the gorge where the views were stunning. The ochre coloured cliffs soared 50 metres above on either side and the guide pointed out a fresh water crocodile on the banks and gave lots of information about the area. We disembarked at the half way point and walked further along the base, past some ancient rock art and boarded a second vessel for the cruise up the next part of the gorge. Again the views were superb with the sheer cliffs on either side and small sandy beaches with green vegetation in places. Returning to the disembarkation point, we walked back to our first vessel where our dinner tables had been set up and as we slowly floated back downstream we enjoyed a lovely three course dinner while watching the changing colours on the cliffs and reflections on the water as the sun set. At one point hundreds of fruit bats flew overhead on their nightly journey up the gorge to feed. During the day they roosted in the trees near the mooring point for the cruises. After an interesting time in Katherine we headed off again passing through Pine Creek and Emerald Springs to Adelaide River where we stopped to have a look around the very well-kept WWII cemetery where there are graves of Australian Defense Force personnel who died in the northern part of Australia. Continuing, we turned off into Litchfield National Park and checked into a caravan park near the small town of Batchelor where we set up on a grassy area beneath the trees. Here we stayed for three nights and went on day trips within the park. First we visited Wangi Falls, passing lots of giant termite mounds scattered amongst the trees. These twin falls with large waterhole beneath were a popular swimming spot. We continued to Tolmer falls which we viewed from a lookout, then on to Florence falls and Buley rockhole where we cooled off in the clear water beneath the falls and also in the rockhole. We enjoyed dinner at the Batchelor Motel/Bistro in the evening. On another day we visited an area called the Lost City which has unusual, weathered rock formations which resemble old ruins and then ventured down a rough dirt track where the Pajero negotiated a half metre deep creek crossing before continuing to an old 1928 homestead ruins and old tin mine and then on to Sandy Creek Falls car park but as the temperature was already 36C we were reluctant to tackle the 5km round trip walk to see the falls which had little water flowing anyway. After an enjoyable time in Litchfield we headed out, stopping on the way to see the Cascades where we made the short but rugged walk in to the very picturesque and green, shady area with a waterfall and lots of rapids in the clear water of the creek. We drove on, passing through Berry Springs and on to Holtze which is near Palmerston. Having previously met a couple who live on a property which is 22 km from Darwin we decided to take up their offer to camp on their property in a bush setting with power and water and use of bathroom facilities. The morning after arriving we learned that the Darwin area was about to go into a three day Covid lockdown so no trips to see Darwin for a few days.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemJabiru12°39’57” S 132°49’55” E
August 17, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
DARWIN & KAKADU TO PINE CREEK 17/8-27/8/21
After waiting out our three day Darwin area lockdown at our camp at Holtze in very hot and humid conditions (thank heavens for our air-conditioner in the van) we were preparing to make a trip to the local supermarket for supplies when we noticed a lot of smoke around the area. We then noticed flames and fire racing through grassland at the back of the house on the property. It moved very quickly and came within about 30 metres of the house and we had the van prepared to hook up and move out but fortunately a number of fire appliances arrived and began to control the bushfire. There were also two helicopters and a fire-bombing plane at work. It was a bit too close for comfort!! Fires continued to burn in various areas during our stay in Darwin. We spent another three days exploring Darwin visiting various sites including the WWII oil storage tunnels, Stokes Hill Wharf and RFDS information centre, the Military Museum, the Museum and Art Gallery of N.T. and the Cullen Bay marina area. Unfortunately we weren’t able to visit the Mindle Beach Markets as they were closed due to the recent Covid lockdown. After enjoying our days in Darwin we headed off towards Kakadu, past Humpty Doo to the Adelaide River where we had booked a river cruise. This was the jumping crocodile cruise which I don’t really agree is a great idea but I must admit it was interesting to see such huge reptiles in such close proximity. The guide on the boat also pointed out many other interesting facts about the river environment and at one point there were lots of whistling kites flying overhead. After disembarking we continued our drive along the Arnhem Highway to the Bark Hut caravan park where we set up for the night and enjoyed a swim in their pool to cool off. The next day we drove on, crossing many rivers including the McKinley, Mary, Wildman, West Alligator and South Alligator and arrived at the Kakadu Lodge caravan park in Jabiru and after settling on our site we again hit the pool for a swim. The daytime temperatures have been mostly in the high 30’s and nights in the mid 20’s with high humidity throughout. During our time in Jabiru we made a couple of day trips. First was to Cooinda where we went on a Yellow Waters boat cruise on the billabong and East Alligator River which we found very interesting. Unlike the jumping crocodile cruise, this guide took us within metres of many big saltwater crocodiles which weren’t disturbed by the boat at all. We saw lots of birdlife including Jabirus, Egrets, Kingfishers, different types of ducks and a sea eagle. After a very enjoyable cruise and lunch at the Cooinda Lodge we returned to Jabiru. On another day we drove to Ubirr and walked around the various Aboriginal rock art sites, some dating back 5,000 years or more. We climbed to the lookout nearby where we had 360 degree views across Arnhemland’s very flat and green floodplains, and in the opposite direction to Kakadu”s rugged, rocky mountain ranges. We drove on to nearby Cahills Crossing where we waited to watch the daily spectacle of crocodiles waiting for the incoming tide to bring the barramundi and other fish over the causeway. We counted at least 20 big crocs in the river, some waiting with mouths open in readiness. A couple of vehicles with very brave occupants even drove across the causeway at the highest point of the tide with water rushing across, half a metre deep! After an interesting time at Jabiru we drove out along the Kakadu Highway to Pine Creek where we stayed at the Lazy Lizard caravan park for the night. The amenities at this site were quite unique with solid timber doors and benches and cut down beer kegs for wash basins and cisterns. We enjoyed dinner at the onsite hotel with its carved timber poles and timber slab tables and chairs. It had plenty of character!Read more
AustraliaSouth AustraliaCoober Pedy28°48’30” S 136°27’22” E
August 28, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
PINE CREEK TO COPLEY – 28/8 to 8/9/21
We began making our way south on the Stuart Highway’s straight stretches of road through flat countryside with eucalypt forests, dry grass and termite mounds. First night was at the Pink Panther Caravan Park in the small town of Larrimah. Next day we drove further to Renner Springs where we joined many other caravans at the back of the Roadhouse. Then on to Wycliffe Well where we had stopped on the way north. The weather was still hot during the day but less humid and the nights more comfortable for sleeping. We continued to Alice Springs where we were lucky to get a booking at a caravan park as many car enthusiasts had taken up accommodation for the upcoming Red Centre Nats car events. Frank was looking forward to going to a sprint car meeting but unfortunately it was cancelled because many entries from eastern states couldn’t cross borders due to Covid restrictions. After a couple of days we continued southbound, stopping at Erldunda before crossing the border into South Australia. Strangely there was no border checkpoint for either Covid border checks or fruit quarantine as there had been on all our previous border crossings. The road was still very busy with caravans heading north and south. We drove on to Marla where we stopped again at the roadhouse for the night and prepared for our trip on the gravel roads in the days ahead. Back on dirt roads with all containers secured with rubber bands this time! The 200km drive to Oodnadatta took us through mostly flat countryside with huge expanses of gibber plains. The road was in reasonable condition but very dusty. We pulled in to the famous Pink Roadhouse and camped at the back with a few other vans. We found that a lot of dust had leaked into the van despite all Frank’s preventative efforts. We looked around the town which was once a busy railhead on the old Ghan rail line and the old station building, some of the disused railway line and siding were still visible. We talked to a nurse who had come to work for a while at the Oodnadatta Medical Clinic and learned that most of the staff there were Aboriginal. The indigenous community is self managed and there is a low crime rate compared to other outback towns. The next day our journey took us further south on the Oodnadatta Track. The road conditions became rougher with some sections of deep corrugations, some stony and some relatively smooth. Most of the time we drove adjacent to the Old Ghan railway line across huge gibber plains and areas of red sand dunes dotted with spinifex and saltbush. We stopped to see a couple of the old disused steel rail bridges, one of which was Algebuckina which was very high and long with a waterhole beneath. There were the ruins of old stone buildings in some areas and the rusty water towers which were used for the steam trains in years gone by. We arrived at William Creek early afternoon where we set up at the caravan park opposite the hotel where we later enjoyed a drink and a delicious goat curry for dinner. Next day we headed off again on the gravel but the road conditions were even worse than previous days. The countryside was similar and we spotted a few emus and some cattle and the old Ghan line was always in view although not much more than a mound of earth with a few rotting sleepers scattered about. We turned in to Coward Springs and walked around to see the hot spring which had been set up as a natural spa. We also looked through an old restored stone cottage which was once one of the railway buildings at Coward Springs railhead. There was once a big hotel nearby but now only ruins. We drove a little further down the track and turned in to see Mound Springs. The access road was so badly corrugated that previous vehicles had made a side track beside the road and we found it a much smoother drive. In this area the natural springs have forced the sandy soil up into huge mounds where the water bubbles slowly to the surface and flows down to the flat plain. The area is dotted with many other mounds, some inactive and the surrounding soil is white with salt deposits. We continued our drive towards Marree, stopping at the Lake Eyre South lookout where we viewed the enormous, dry white salt lake which stretched to the horizon. Further down the track we spotted some outback art which was set up beside the road in the middle of nowhere. It included a couple of old planes standing up on their tails, a man made of bits of old machinery and an old windmill that looked like a huge flower. Very eye-catching! After arriving in Marree we looked around the small town and the old restored railway station which was set up as a museum with nearby diesel locomotives which once travelled on the old Ghan line. Next day we continued south on sealed road which was a relief after the bone shaking gravel of the past few days. We stopped at the old town of Farina which was once fairly large and a major stop on the old Ghan line. Now all the stone buildings are in ruins but some are slowly being restored. The well-known Farina bakery is the only newly built building but unfortunately it was closed due to Covid restrictions. There were lots of historical information boards along the streets of the old town which once had two or three big hotels and numerous businesses. We drove on to the small town of Copley where we checked in to the caravan park at the back of the Quandong Bakery which is well known for its pies. We made sure we sampled a few!!Read more
