Another day in Mires

The mission sounded simple: before Miri headed home, we wanted to pick up some authentic Cretan mountain tea (malotira) at the market in Mires. I had two other goals of my own, though: I wanted to scout out a good fishmonger that stays open during the week - and I absolutely had to get my hands on a kilo of klossaki, a rare type of Cretan cucumber-melon that you can usually only find at local farmers' markets.

As we strolled through the vibrant, colorful lanes, the sensory overload was total. Sweet grapes, priced at two euros a kilo, sat alongside jars of Cretan thyme honey. Parked right by the roadside was a mobile cheese stall, stocked with blocks of feta and wheels of graviera. And Loukaniko! I couldn't resist - I snapped some up immediately. It would make a perfect welcome gift for Rainer, who is arriving the day after Miri leaves. Well well, as he also loves graviera 🙄🧀💸.

Amidst the hustle and bustle, we witnessed the quintessential Cretan sense of calm: an elderly man, completely unperturbed, puttered through the dense crowd of shoppers on his moped! Something that would be absolutely unthinkable at a market back in Germany. He managed to keep his balance right next to a stall, left the engine running, and simply draped his shopping bags over the seat. Market shopping - true drive-in style!

After successfully securing those coveted klossaki cucumber-melons from one of the farmers, I managed to complete my second mission just off the main street: we stumbled upon a traditional, turquoise-painted fish shop. On massive stainless-steel counters, fresh-caught fish lay bedded on crushed ice - everything from sea bream to tiny atherina (sand smelt) perfect for the frying pan. Jackpot! Now I know exactly where we’ll be getting our fish during the week.

After our shopping marathon, our stomachs were growling. Anyone familiar with the market in Mires knows to simply follow the scent of charcoal. I head to the same little side alley every single time - it’s my absolute favorite spot for souvlaki. Right next to the massive street-side grill, we managed to snag some seats under the umbrellas of a kafenio. Amidst the thick smoke, souvlaki and sausages were sizzling away by by the second. Surrounded by Cretan families and a lively, boisterous hum of conversation, we tucked into our skewers. This is Crete in a nutshell: smoky, unpretentious, and incredibly delicious.

Mires - you were loud, bustling, and absolutely delectable. Miri’s suitcase now smells of mountain tea, Rainer has some loukaniko and graviera to look forward to, we’ve secured some klossaki, and our fish menu for the coming weeks is all set!Read more