Sofia & Vitosha

Started the day bright-eyed and tail-aloft, as I catapulted my way up to Aleko Hut (not really, that would be ridiculous).

The objective of the morning was to give it a good crack at Cherni Vrah, the tallest peak in Vitosha. Now, April is an awkward time for mountains in the Bulgarian calendar. Not quite ski season, but not quite hiking season either. But to hell with it, I thought, and I bulldozed up the slopes (steepness might be lost in the photos). Of the 550 m ascent, I must've made 200 m before my legs started caving through the metres-thick layer of melting snow, disappearing into unfathomable caverns and oxford-county council severity potholes. My decision to turn back was confounded by the fact I forgot to bring suncream and sunglasses even with the glare (can you believe it, I really never learn!)

So I scooted back down to the hut; I believe the technical term is glissading, except I used my bum rather than an ice axe, so you know... close enough. I did what any defeated man would - drown my sorrows with traditional chicken soup and a beer in the mountain hut before running away to go and haggle with old men over soviet badges (hell yea).

THE landmark of Sofia is the Alexander Nevsky cathedral, an awe-striking icon with golden domes and intricate guildings. But outside the cattedrale, there were all sorts of flamboyant trinkets, relics and gizmos for sale, including swastika clad bits and bobs from the Nazi-era (?!), and soviet badges (my kryptonite).

This leads flawlessly into the 'communist walking tour' I then then joined with guide Dino around the city. A touchy subject in Bulgaria it seems, but honestly super interesting to learn about. I'll spare the gory details because I'm afraid one of you reading is a soviet informant but during the walk I met three young gals, Matilda, Anna and Charlotte, from Oxfordshire of all bloody places! After the tour, they invited me out for a gyals' night with some dinner and drinks, where we clinked cocktails and sadly didn't get pedicures (or any photos?)

Fun day! The end.Read more