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2026 Camino Portugues

Beach time in Basque Country, volunteering in France, and sauntering through Portugal. Leer más
  • Santiago-Free Day 1

    5 de junio, España ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    You learn a lot at the laundromat. I had some thoughts on museums to visit but wasn't sure which to prioritize with the time I have available. With the help of my laundry mates, I figured out my plan for today and tomorrow.

    First up, I made some changes to my plan for the next few days. I decided not to walk to Finisterre. I want to do some exploring in Santiago. There's so much to see here so I'm extending my stay by two days and then I'll take a bus to Finisterre and spend two days there and meet up with Sue and Bob again.

    So after laundry, I met up with Sue and we went to the Cathedral and hour before the Pilgrim's Mass to get good seats and then Bob caught up with us. I noticed right away that the first two rows of pews were reserved. That usually means that a tour group has made a donation to have the botafumeiro swing. The botafumeiro is an incense urn, as tall as I am, that historically was used to purify the air since the smelly pilgrims used to sleep in an upper level of the church. Now it's a symbolic purification and lifting of prayers. I didn't take much video of it because I wanted to just watch it. It reaches speed of about 40mph.

    After Mass, we went to Hotel Costa Valla to have a beverage in their garden. I learned about this place from the laundromat. It was a beautiful garden and my lemonade was delicious.

    Bob and Sue then went to the Cathedral rooftop tour, which Pat and I did three years ago, and I went to the Casa de la Troya museum. I'm staying at the hotel of the same name and my mom sent me a picture of a book she has of the same name. It turns out the book is semi-autobiographical and the events took place in a house that was turned into a museum. It's about a wealthy young man from Madrid whose father sends him to the farthest, and rainiest, university (Santiago) to get him away from bad influences. He ends up meeting, and rooming, with a bunch of guys in a rowdy boarding house. An 18th Century Animal House, if you will. The Tuna bands feature heavily in the story. It's piqued my interest so I'll have to either read the book or watch one of the movies made from the book.

    Then we shared a nice dinner and said good-bye until Finisterre.
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  • Santiago-Free Day 2

    6 de junio, España ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    I had a pretty relaxing day. I sat in the Plaza da Obradoiro for a while looking at the Cathedral's facade and watching new pilgrims arrive. Then I took a tour of the Portico de Gloria, the Cathedral's original facade. If you've watched the movie The Way, at the end of the movie they put their hands on a marble column. That is part of the portico. They don't allow you to touch it anymore but I was able to get close to it and see the hand imprint made by thousands of people. The portico was beautiful and the guide explained the cast of characters. They didn't allow photos so I don't have much to show today.

    I'm winding down the night watching a Korean drama dubbed in Spanish. It's pretty entertaining.
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  • Santiago-Free Day 3

    7 de junio, España ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    After a leisurely breakfast, I headed to the Cathedral to meet up with a free walking tour. It's not exactly free as at the end you tip the guide and it's well worth it. My guide is originally from Cuba but has been studying at the University of Santiago de Compostela for a few years and has just completed his Master's in Art History. He education added alot of details to the significance of the buildings and iconography surrounding us. He also showed us the new statue of Pelayo, the hermit who found St. James' body after following shooting stars.

    I spent the rest of the day wandering around town.
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  • Santiago to Finisterra

    8 de junio, España ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I took a bus today to catchup with Bob and Sue who continued walking to Finisterra while I took in the sights in Santiago. About an hour into the 2.5 hour journey, the bus started leaking radiator fluid and went kaput. The driver had us all get off the bus and collect our luggage to wait for a replacement. So there we were, sixty of us, sitting in the curb in a tiny town not knowing if we had enough time to run to the bar to use the bathroom. About an hour later, as I was looking up how much a taxi would cost and getting a Swiss man and Brazilian lady interested in sharing the cost, the replacement bus showed up. It was a free-for-all getting the luggage stored and getting on the bus. I guess we should be grateful for the timing because shortly after getting back on the road, the rain came in.

    The rest of day day went much more smoothly. I checked into my hotel, did laundry, and walked about town. I had a nice dinner of pasta with prawns and called it a night.
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  • Finisterre-to the End of the World

    9 de junio, España ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After breakfast of yogurt, fruit, coffee, and freshly-squeezed orange juice, I set out to meet Sue and Bob. They were walking from a town called Cee so I walked in that direction to meet them at a beautiful beach. We had a great reunion of the three amigos. Then we walked through the town of Finisterre and to the end of the cape, which the Romans described as the end of the world. The views were breath-taking. We took lots of pictures at the Kilometer 0 marker and climbed down some rocks at the end of the cape to have a snack and Tarta de Santiago.

    We went back to town and sat for a while near the marina having beverages then went to my room to relax until dinnertime. My room had a tiny balcony with a view of the marina. We went to an Argentinian Asador for dinner and had a meat feast. There was more than enough to make sandwiches for tomorrow’s trail snack. After dinner we called it a night to rest for tomorrow’s walk. Keep in mind, we don't finish dinner here until 9pm (which is early by Spanish standards).
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  • Finisterre to Lires

    10 de junio, España ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    We said our good-byes to Bob after breakfast as he is heading home. After leaving him at the bus, Sue and I headed back onto the Camino heading to Muxia. We're breaking this stage into two days to take it easy after all the 15 to 19 mile days. Our rest stop for today is a small village on an estuary called Lires, about 8 miles away. Of course, all the maps lie and it turned out to be 10 miles.

    We stopped at a couple of donativos along the way to have coffee and orange juice. At a donativo, you pay what you feel is fair for the value received. We had a nice chat with a young man from Paraguay who is trying to make this a relaxing place for pilgrims to take a break.

    Our walk today was really nice and took us through forests of eucalyptus, pine, and ferns. We also walked past beautiful beaches. We took a snack break right on the trail among nature.

    When we arrived to Lires, we found that they assigned us a corner room with an ocean view and balcony. We were in heaven and didn't want to move. But we decided to walked along the estuary to the beach since it was only a 20 minute walk. It was so worth it because there was a nearly-empty beach bar with great views. It reminded us so much of Bodega Bay. We spent most of the afternoon there before going back to the hotel to watch a new Italian film titled Buen Camino. It was a silly comedy that we both enjoyed.
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  • Lires to Muxia

    11 de junio, España ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    Today's walk was again supposed to be about 8 miles but we figured it would end up being 10 miles, and we were right.

    The first half of the walk was mainly uphill through a couple of hamlets but mostly eucalyptus forests. We were also surrounded by wind turbines. We kept climbing until we at the same level as their concrete pads.

    We chatted with a man who told us about a beautiful beach 1 kilometer before Muxia. As we approached it from the road above it, we found a trail and decided to spend a little time on the beach since it was only about noon. There were only about four people on the beach and we had a little cove to ourselves. We tested out the water and found it too cold for our taste but enjoyed sitting and looking at it.

    We walked the rest of the way into Muxia and had a fantastic late lunch at Lonxa d'Alvaro which has been mentioned in the Michelin guide.

    And this is where our Camino journey ends. It has been an incredible journey with the three amigos. We laughed, we cursed, we sang, and we nursed aching body parts but we persevered because we are pilgrims.
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  • Muxia-Free Day

    12 de junio, España ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We woke up to a glorious sunny sky and moderate breeze. So much nicer than the cold wind we were hit with last night. We would have watched the sunrise from our terrace but we were both still sleeping.

    Once we were ready to face the world, we ventured out to a little spot called Antojitos for breakfast. I had avocado toast topped with feta and smoked salmon. It was yummy. A weekly market was setting up so we took a walk through it. They had fruits, veggies, shoes, and clothing. There is only one, small clothing store here so the weekly market must really come in handy for the residents.

    Then Sue and I walked up, up, up a hill to see the historical sites. There is a church, a lighthouse, a granite cross, and the rocks where Martin Sheen's character threw ashes in the movie "The Way". The church, Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca, was interesting in that it has a seacraft motif. The legend is that Mary came to meet St. James when he was preaching Christianity here.

    The 360 degree views, of the Atlantic and Muxia from the top were amazing. We sat there for a good long time enjoying the views. Then we had lunch/dinner of fideua with scallops and prawns at A Furna. What is fideua, you ask? It's similar to paella but made with short noodles instead of rice. I prefer it this way.
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  • Muxía to A Coruña

    13 de junio, España ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Well, last night we stayed up late to watch the sunset and this morning we woke up early to watch the sunrise. Luckily, we only had to step outside our room to watch the sunrise.

    After breakfast, we took a three-hour bus ride to A Coruña for some beach time and to explore somewhere new. We drove through many charming towns. No more Camino walking for us even though the Camino Inglés runs through A Coruña.

    We somehow got upgraded to a top-floor, corner-suite room with a bit of ocean view. We're pretty happy about that. The funny thing about hotels here is when you request two beds, they're made up as two beds but they're pushed together.

    We enjoyed some tapas across from Playa de Riazor and then walked around. A Coruña is a big city but the old section still has a small-town feel to it. There are many, many streets full of shops and restaurants so we had a blast exploring. We noted a few spots we want to check out tomorrow.

    We had a light dinner of salad and pimientos de Padrón then walked the promenade along the beach to watch the sunset.
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  • A Coruña Free Day 1

    14 de junio, España ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    After yesterday's 85 degree heat, we decided today would be a beach day to give our bodies a rest after all of the walking. Well, we learned that the heat was an anomaly. Our beach day was cloudy and, at times, warm and cold but we ended up getting a tan and relaxing anyway. Our goal was to even out our "farmer's tan" that we got from walking for the last three weeks.

    We walked around the downtown and old town areas of A Coruña in the evening, finding several shoe and jewelry stores to keep us entertained. We found one store owned by an artist that paints on garments. I bought a shirt from her that had the famous "crystal gallery" buildings painted on the front. I asked if she would add something to the back and she obliged. It's nice to have a unique souvenir.

    We're also back on the Camino by chance. A Coruña is on a route called the Camino Inglés so we walked a few kilometers of it.

    A Coruña is a popular cruise port. There were two smaller ships in port but most of the cruisers must have taken bus tours to Santiago because we didn't notice any crowds. We did head to the port to wave as the ships departed.
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  • A Coruña Free Day 2

    15 de junio, España ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We started our day with a simple breakfast in our room—yogurt and fruit—before getting ready for a full walking tour of the city. Soon after, we met our guide at the beautiful Plaza de María Pita, the historic heart of A Coruña. We were the only two on the tour so we learned alot.

    There is so much history in this city that it is hard to absorb it all in one day, but a few stories stood out the most.

    The main plaza is named in honor of María Pita, who became a symbol of the city’s courage and resistance. During an attempted siege by the English, led by Sir Francis Drake, Maria Pita's second husband was killed. According to legend, when an English soldier breached the town walls, María Pita killed him and rallied the A Coruñans, shouting:

    “Quen teña honra, que me siga!”
    (“Whoever has honor, follow me!”)

    Her actions helped turn the tide of the battle and the English eventually withdrew, cementing her place in local history. Her skills as a butcher came in handy that day.



    From there, we walked through the Old Town visiting some of its most important churches.

    We visited the Iglesia de Santiago, the oldest church in A Coruña and one of the most significant landmarks along the Camino de Santiago route. Built in the Romanesque style, it dates back to the 12th century and has long served as a spiritual stop for pilgrims walking toward Santiago de Compostela.



    We continued to the peaceful Convento de Santa Bárbara, one of the oldest religious sites in the city. Founded in the 15th century and still home to cloistered nuns, it feels like stepping back in time. The nuns continue a centuries-old tradition of prayer and make handmade cookies that visitors can purchase by ringing a bell and speaking through a small window.



    As we explored further, we noticed one of A Coruña’s most iconic features—the glass-fronted balconies known as the Galerías de la Marina, which give the city its nickname, “The Glass City.” Built in the 19th century, these galleries were designed to protect homes from Atlantic weather while maximizing natural light and sea views. Originally part of a working fishing district, they now form one of the most distinctive waterfront skylines in Europe. The owner of the Zara empire lives in one of these galería homes.



    We also learned about a surprising connection to art history: Pablo Picasso lived in A Coruña as a child from 1891 to 1895. During this time, his father, José Ruiz Blasco, taught at the local art school, and Picasso received his earliest formal training here. He even held his first public exhibition in the city at just 13 years old, making A Coruña an important early chapter in his artistic development.



    After the tour, we stopped for a quick bite of tapas before making our way to the highlight of the afternoon—the Tower of Hercules.

    This ancient Roman lighthouse, built in the 1st century AD, is the oldest working lighthouse in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has guided ships for nearly 2,000 years and is surrounded by legend, including the myth of Hercules defeating the giant Geryon, which gives the tower its name. The facade has been reconstructed but the interior Roman structure remains.  We climbed the 300 interior Roman steps to take in the views.

    We also explored the surrounding Parque Escultórico de la Torre de Hércules, a dramatic coastal park filled with walking paths, ocean views, and modern sculptures inspired by Celtic mythology and the sea. It was the perfect blend of nature, art, and history, especially with the Atlantic stretching endlessly beyond the cliffs.



    After finishing our visit, we walked the long promenade back to our hotel—about 12 miles in total for the day. Our feet were sore, but it was worth every step.

    We rested for a bit and then headed out again for a nice dinner, ending a long but incredible day filled with history, scenery, and the unique charm of A Coruña.
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  • A Coruña Free Day 3

    16 de junio, España ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We wandered around old town a bit this morning and then had lunch at Comarea Marina, a lovely restaurant on the harbour. We ordered the fideuá which came with mussels, clams, and razor clams but we forgot to take a picture. It was enough food for four people so we gave the leftovers to a lady who sells knick knacks on the street.

    Then we took a long walk to the Estella Galicia museum. Estella Galicia is one of the most popular beers in Spain, especially in northern Spain. We learned about the ingredients and processing and watched the automated bottling process. Then we learned how to properly pour a glass from the tap. The tour was topped off with a sampling of five beers, plus the glass we poured, paired with local cheeses. It was alot of fun even though I'm not much of a beer-drinker. They have a pretty extensive product line, including three or four non-alcoholic beers.
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  • A Coruña Free Day 4

    17 de junio, España ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    We had a easy day today of doing a little shopping in the morning and then spent a couple if hours on the beach after the sun came out.

    Both Sue and I noticed that there are some areas of A Coruña that remind us very much of San Francisco. A Coruña is a pretty modern city compared to other Spanish cities we've seen. Some areas have Neo-Classical architecture next to mid-century modern buildings, just like San Francisco. The climate is pretty similar as well. Overcast, foggy, and windy in some areas...warm and sunny in others.

    Dinner hit the spot tonight. We found a spot that had tomatoes with basil oil and grilled octopus. The traditional preparation in this area is to boil the octopus but we really wanted it grilled. It was very tasty.

    We had to dedicate some time to re-packing our things since we're heading to Madrid tomorrow for one night before heading back to the States.

    Now we're settling in to watch the World Cup.
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  • Adios, España!

    18 de junio, España ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    The last two days have been all about slowing down, picking up those last few souvenirs, and beginning our journey home.
    We enjoyed a final, quiet morning in A Coruña, packing our bags and leaving around 11:00 a.m. for the airport to catch our flight to Madrid. Our flight ended up being about an hour and a half late, but thankfully we had access to the VIP lounge, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch and a few beverages while we waited.

    Once we arrived in Madrid, we took a taxi to our hotel for our final night in Spain. We toasted an incredible journey with a glass of wine and a delicious pizza topped with tuna, tomatoes, onions, and olive oil. It sounds strange but the tuna in Spain is so good.

    We set an early alarm, and by 6:00 a.m. we were on our way back to the airport. Once again, we were able to relax in the VIP lounge, enjoying breakfast before boarding our flight. I enjoyed my last hurrah of jamón, cheese, and bread. Around 10:00 a.m. we departed Madrid for our nine-hour flight to Atlanta. As an added bonus, we happened to be on the Team USA plane, which made the trip feel even more special. Now I'm just waiting for my next flight which is delayed.

    The last 48 days have been an incredible journey.  First, vacationing in San Sebastian and Biarritz with Sue and Kerri. Then volunteering in the Pilgrim Office in SJPP with Sue, Kerri, Isabelle, and Martín.  Followed by walking the Camino Portugues with Sue and Bob, which really challenged me with longer distances than I was accustomed to.  And finally, exploring A Coruña with Sue, a new location for both of us and we learned so much about the area.

    Thanks to everyone who followed along, encouraged me, and shared this adventure with me.

    Until the next Camino…
    ¡Buen Camino, Peregrinos! ❤️❤️❤️
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    Fin del viaje
    19 de junio de 2026