Hells Gate, Burketown and Karumba

Hells gate heading west is defined by two large boulders which at one time was the gateway to wild and lawless territory. It was a fend for yourself rather than be protected by the law kind of outpost. Of course in early Australian history many of the outback regions were filled with wild frontier adventurers, vagabonds, thieves and rebels. Glad to say that Hells Gate today is somewhat an oasis after a long dirt road from Borroloola. There we perched on the grass overlooking a billabong and watching the water birds in their evening tadpole feeding frenzy. The most beautiful & agile Kingfishers held the show. It’s place to have a cold beer and enjoy the solitude of the outback and plan our next few days.
Having read Burke and Wills (Sarah Murgartroyd - absolutely brilliant) we were fascinated by the idea of going to Burketown. Fascination resolved with not much to say! In fact Burke did not even go within 100km of there. The town decided to bathe in the expeditions glory regardless! We did actually get to the actual spot of Camp 119 which was the northern most camp 30 miles south of where they capitulated & retreated. Say what you like about the buffoon Robert Burke but he (with Wills, Gray & King) walked from Innaminka to the Gulf & back in 3 and a half months. Yes, they walked 60km per day leading camels through 50 kinds of bloody hard country.
On the way however we came across the majestic Leichhardt River and falls. ( He didn’t name it, rather I think it was Gregory named it for him. As a general rule explorers did not name places after themselves). Beautiful spot to admire one of these amazing northern rivers which included the Nicholson River crossing. Our deepest and longest crossing yet.
Now, the sea is a difficult place to get to on the Gulf ( as Burke discovered) so Andrew suggested destination Karumba! It is the only place you can get right to the sea edge in the gulf country. What better way to do this than at the Sunset Tavern watching the sun set over the Arafura Sea in the Gulf of Carpentaria. How amazing.Read more