• BushRoos

Long Way Home

Saying goodbye to the Magnificent Seven it’s time to traverse the top end of Australia and East Coast home. Read more
  • Trip start
    July 11, 2024

    Middle Lagoon

    July 11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    From Broome we head up the Dampier Coast and get as far as this magic place called Middle Lagoon. It’s a magnificent part of this far western tip of Australia. Our home is a bush camp with some minimal facilities and a favourite amongst some campers. We can swim here! Yes we can. In the ocean too. It’s a rough and bumpy ride into this spot but the rewards did pay off. If it was handier we’d be back in a beat.Read more

  • Gibb River Road to Manning Gorge.

    July 13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    It’s only 30 degrees. Just sayin! We drive back past Boab trees and termite mounds.
    Termite mounds are
    castles of dirt and termite spit. They are of great value even as they erode over decades or even centuries into small hills. They provide sustenance, shade and lookouts for many vertebrates apparently. From snakes to lizards to mice and birds. We look at them through a different lens now.

    Into the majestic Napier Rangers we go. The Kimberly is truly a feast for the senses. The scenery is often spectacular as we drive across lush creek crossings, into gorges and all the while surrounded by wild flowers and birds. Bird lovers this is your paradise. We rise to the chorus of birds, we move to their calls during the day and lulled by their cacophony by twilight.
    Around us you can actually smell the flowers in bloom. It’s a delicious nectar kind of scent. Beautiful.
    Early morning before the sun rises we set off to hike to the Upper Manning Gorge. This starts with putting all our worldly possessions ( ie phone and hiking shoes) into a floating tub and swimming across the river to get to the walking track! Yes this was the only way to get to the track! Now the views to the gorge are gorgeous but nothing prepares us for the spectacular gorge and waterfall itself. As we were up so early, we have the gorge to ourselves. An early morning waterfall swim! My photos won’t do this place justice but every step of the 5 km is worth it!
    I might add that to do the Manning Gorge Hike it’s been a stay in yet another very crowded bush camp. I’m going to be somewhat ungenerous here and say I simply do not understand what entices people with their enormous caravans followed with their enormous loud generators to service their air conditioning, television , heating whatever and totally spoil it for those of us who wish to enjoy nature, it’s sights, it’s sounds and scents. Maybe we just need to have designated areas. The I’m travelling in my actual house and the I’m travelling with my swag! Rant over. Manning Gorge spectacular.
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  • The Heart of the Kimberly

    July 14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    From Manning Gorge we go deep into the heart of the Kimberly region. Mt Elizabeth Station is the heart of the Kimberley region in Western Australia. Located not far off the iconic Rocky, dusty bumpy, Gibb River Road. Mt Elizabeth is a half-million acre, fully operational cattle station. It also runs a tourism enterprise, offering accommodation, camping, meals and station life.
    It is owned and operated by the Burton family, who have been Kimberley pastoralists for over thirty years and runs approximately 6000 head of cattle for the Burton Beef Company, which supplies Kimberley beef to the local area!
    Andrew had his first taste of Kimberly beef here. You can buy and bbq your own. His assessment is “ I think there is nothing better than the good old grass fed poll short horn from Gamboola”! Haha. Of course he was always going to say that.
    Another great swimming hole, check out my pics. It’s well worth the visit into this station, which is a bit of an oasis after the rough and tumble dusty Gibb River road.
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  • Kununurra

    July 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    It’s 34 degrees today! The temperatures sit mainly in the 30s. Perfect.
    Today we continue along the stony, rutted Gibb River road, crossing small creek beds and stopping occasionally at a gorge, lookout or fall. Letting the road and inclination take us.
    It’s definitely croc country now with a freshie spotted at one of the falls.
    The larger ‘salties’ live in the sea, but they prefer estuaries and freshwater swamps across northern Australia and we are informed they often venture inland during the breeding season. I read somewhere these prehistoric creatures can hold their breath for up to 8 hours and travel up to 900 km. They rule the North! Most definitely. Haven’t seen one yet but we see plenty of signs warning us of their presence.
    We did come across two snakes today. As temperatures here continue to be warm, I am guessing snakes remain active all year round. We saw a beautiful shiny black headed python ( see pic) and a long thin dugite we think.
    Onward over the Durack River and then crossing the mighty and iconic Pentecost River. Looking up from here we are surrounded by the magnificent Cockburn Range that rises up 600m over the surrounding plains. It really does leave you in awe of this incredible landscape. It’s a perfect spot to camp and watch fellow travellers crossing. One poor car had a flat tyre as they started to cross. Sorted by the time we passed!
    We didn’t camp but chose to continue following the range up to Wyndham! Thinking this might be a great spot to watch the mighty rivers flow, perhaps from the balcony of an old pub! The stuff of dreams! Wyndham is closed! Full Stop ( see my pics)! Don’t bother with Wyndham.
    We had done quite a few kms today and decided to stretch it to Kununurra. Glad we did.
    Enjoyed a delicious meal at the Pump House Restaurant overlooking the Ord. Divine
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  • The Mighty Ord

    July 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today has been spectacular. We set off with Steve from Silent Tours in Kununurra to explore the mighty Ord River. It did not disappoint in its beauty and its might. We spent 6 hours just us and Steve traversing this river’s ecosystem with its rich wildlife, birdlife, flora and scenery. Early morning over Lake Kununurra and the river Ord was the perfect way to start a day.
    Spectacular gorges, cliffs and crevices surrounded us. Water lilies bloomed at first sunlight. Birds were in their paradise. From kites, kingfishers, ospreys, cormorants to my favourite new bird ‘ the Jesus bird’ which uses its three large toes to walk on lily pads! So cute.
    We saw freshwater crocs sunning themselves and then sliding silently into the river on our approach. They really are quite shy and more afraid of us I think.
    Steve took us on a gorgeous walk where we saw the tallest most majestic paper bark trees ever. I am still in awe of their majesty. On to a spectacular water fall and swimming hole. All to ourselves!!!!
    My photos do this trip no justice and as I find myself apologising for crappy photography, I yearn to become a good one with some good gear ( any tips here appreciated)!
    I would thoroughly recommend Silent tours with Steve if anyone is ever up this way.
    Kununurra is a natural beauty with a dam that seems to have only enhanced the rivers eco system.
    A late lunch at the Hootchery rum bar, some taste testing ( maybe a purchase or two) and an afternoon nap.
    Such a perfect day!
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  • The Ord

    July 17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Andrew was keen on the research of the this river system and says: “The Ord River Scheme has been a huge government experiment spanning 3 decades from 1952. It's generally failed to become Australia's northern food-basket with major initiatives to grow different crops failing due to natural pests & soil salinity. For example, attempts to grow rice resulted in Magpie Geese arriving in numbers that blackened the sky and shut the airport. As far as government blunders go however, it's been a good one that has delivered something special ecologically. The enormous dam system has created an amazingly rich man-sponsored ecosystem that seems both out-of-place in its vast arid surroundings and also as if it's somehow survived as a relic of the past from an ancient geological era.”
    And just to prove a point, this magpie goose flew into the pub last night and strutted around like he owned the joint. Super cute and friendly. Even had a drink from the bar ( of water )!
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  • NITMILUK- KATHERINE GORGE

    July 17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Today we traverse the Savannah Way through the Kimberly. Kapoch trees in flower and towering ranges surround us. Stopping to stretch and lookout over the impressive Victoria River home of the Salties and Barramundi – icon of the Kimberley.
    The Barramundi are apparently delicious eating and fishermen say quite thrilling to catch. They also live in both freshwater and saltwater, change sex and eat just about anything! We drive on to the disappointment called Timber Creek with its RAM Car specials and long large houses on wheels lining up for fuel and roadhouse staples.
    A big days drive and finding a camp was difficult with people everywhere! They were camped behind rocks, behind bushes, bull dust pits and multi corporation caravan parks, so crowded! The Nitmiluk National Park was a surprise in its quiet serenity and a grassy patch for our swag. Finished off with a cocktail by the pool. Not bad.
    Katherine Gorge now called NITMILUK ( cicada), makes sense to me as you hear them on approach. Katherine got its name after the Katherine River, which was named by explorer John McDouall Stuart in 1862 pafter his sponsor's (James Chambers) daughter.
    We are reading so much about early Australia, its ancestors and its explorers. Onto our third book Ludwig Leichhardt what a story!!!
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  • Litchfield NP

    July 18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    From Nitmiluk Gorge to Edith Falls for a swim. From here it wasn’t far to Litchfield National Park where we found that all the campsites had been booked months in advance by campers much more organised than us. Following a well-established Australian precedence, we proclaimed Terra Nullius on an unoccupied site we liked at Florence Falls and then declared it ours at dark. No one turned up so no problems except for the family from hell next door: "Cooper, you know it's not nice to hit your sister with the shovel, say sorry mate. Ethan, don't light the beautiful Paper Bark trees with your fire-stick..." And so on till late at night.
    Superb morning walk to Florence Falls and Wangi Falls before a coffee at a great little Cafe in the bush and then on to Darwin avoiding a lot of wallabies wanting to play Death By Ute. So many cars, so many people, so many traffic lights! Andrew serviced the ute ready for the trip home in the Repco carpark before we arrived at our lovely apartment overlooking Darwin Harbour. A soft bed, a hot shower, cold beer, food not cooked over campfire - we will adapt for a few days I'm sure!
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  • Darwin

    Jul 19–23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Darwin and up to Shenanigans. Here we danced until 2 AM, we drank, we ate, caught up with friends, we walked and then walked until I had blisters, we scootered like a couple of teenagers, ate, drank and danced some more. We backed to backed it! We slept on a soft comfy bed with four pillows and clean sheets from the wee hours to the late morning. We watched the sun sets over the Timor Sea and the full moon rise above it. Colours of bright blue days filled with warm sunshine and green palms. Late afternoons with yellow, orange and pink hues of the northern sunsets. It WAS tinged with the sadness of missed opportunities with our girls but we made the best of it all. We love Darwin and, now it’s time to pack our bags into the dusty red Ute and continue our journey across the Savannah Way and into Kakadu.Read more

  • Kakadu

    July 23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Kakadu the language of the Gagudju!
    Jabiru is home to the Flying Foxes. The small red and larger black. Stopping by a lake to lunch in the small town of Jabiru, we were inundated by this noisy social chorus hanging about in the trees. They are actually a bat but unlike bats do not use echolocation to hunt. Rather they have astute senses of smell and sight. I’m not sure what they are saying to each other but it’s loud and it’s raucous and it sounds a lot like swearing! Jabiru seems like a peaceful town surrounded by and actually in, the vast Kakadu National Park. Our stop here was brief but beautiful.
    Today we took the sometimes graded but mostly rutted road into Jim Jim Falls over small creek crossings to eventually get to the falls walk. The name Andjimdjim comes from the word for fresh water pandanus. The walk into the falls is rugged and rocky with some pretty steep boulders to scramble over in the end. It’s all worth it though as you come to a sandy beach , with a swimming hole surrounded by enormous cliffs. A short swim and more rock scrambling gets you to the plunge pool and under the water fall. It’s a trickle in the dry season but still spectacular. We’d come in the afternoon and the crowds had dispersed. Imagine having this to ourselves (well me as Andrew doesn’t swim)! All I could see looking up was blue sky and towering rocks 200m high. Looking down the plunge pool was a deep, deep blue. High above, the water cascaded down in rivulets and the sound of birds echoed above. Sounds in this plunge pool are amplified , the sound of my breath, my gentle splashing, the water spraying. I don’t have a photo as I had to swim and climb to get here but I felt it.

    Tonight we are back camped in our swag and under the Kakadu skies at Jim Jim Falls campground. A beautiful bush camp surrounded by majestic gorge cliffs which capture the afternoon sun perfectly. We witness the display in hues of red, orange yellow and everything in between during this cascade of late afternoon sunshine reflected on the surrounding cliffs.

    The full moon rose at about 8pm & made for very effective daylight right through to morning - incredibly bright & a most excellent night for cattle duffing as Andrew’s father would say.
    On a side note people who know Andrew would know the great value he places on hard gotten firewood. Often we collect prior to entering parks or camps. He bought a brand new you beaut mini chainsaw for our trip just for the job. Sometimes we drive into a camp racked and stacked like some local wood suppliers! Anyway on this occasion we’d dropped our wood at our campsite prior to our walk to the falls. Imagine the consternation, the indignation and the exasperation of the wood collector upon returning to camp to find most of it stolen! Yes stolen. Non other than by the people camped next to us! Andrew could not help himself. He conoitered ( it’s not a word but sounds just like what he did) about close to their fire and immediately recognised his logs! He told them so too! Poor campers thought it was a free for all. And I don’t blame them as we do look like the local wood suppliers after all!
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  • Yellow River Billabong Kakadu

    July 24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We made the mistake of thinking Kakadu was going to be all that those images on tv and glossy travel brochures. In fact we discovered that Kakadu is world heritage due to its diversity rather than its beauty. It’s the Dry season and the only time we can get vehicles in and around Kakadu. Around 80% of the park is considered lowlands and this means lots of scrubby vegetation and rocky hills. There is some major off road navigation required to get to those glossy magazine covers! Just sayin.
    Anyway today without too much effort we happened upon the Yellow River Billabong. Now this is glossy! It’s a massive billabong which offers scenic boat rides and walking platforms to view the myriad of bird and aquatic life. From dancing brolgas to whirling hawks, whistling kites, magpie geese, ducks, water hens , fish and crocs ( although didn’t see the latter). It lifted our already lifted spirits somewhat more to just sit and watch and listen. Spectacular.
    We continued down the Stuart Highway to Mataranka only to find the roadhouse (where Andrew had a great stay in 2007 while cycling with Craig) has been reduced to a run-down, dirty dump. We needed somewhere to stay for the night so we drove out to the spring which was also a big disappointment. It’s been completely overtaken by tourism and here you meet the Vans and the kids and the RAMs and the nomads and the karaoke and the music and the crowds all mixed up into one big uninspiring commercial venture. Poor Mataranka and what was once its pristine natural springs.
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  • Roper Bar and The Lost City

    July 25, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    The Roper river is majestic! When you make your way through hot dry country and you come across an expansive river seemingly out of nowhere, it’s truly amazing. Imagine how those explorers felt crossing this river right here at Roper Bar! Imagine how they felt afterwards getting to the escarpments some 200 metres high with no obvious way down. It is the stuff of legends back in the day of expeditions and early exploration and we’ve become fascinated by it all.
    Another 150km on rough roads took us to the Southern Lost City in Limmen National Park. The camp facilities have been burnt out by an out-of.control ‘environmental’ burn it seemed but that’s good because no campers either. The walk around this natural rock formation is phenomenal. Andrew says in fact the best walk he’s ever done. Huge rock formations have been created by the weather over time and we walk amongst great towering pillars , majestic flowering gums, rocky outcrops with views to distant lost cities. We camp under the stars, by the light of the moon and wake to the first bird calls and slivers of light. Perfect. No vans. No buses. Nobody! Bliss
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  • Boorooloola

    July 26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    The Savannah Way is a long dusty, rutted stoney stretch of road to some of the furthest outreaches of the top end. As is our custom, we are up early and packed for travels which means we get to hit the road without many vehicles and hopefully we get to see the fauna before it rests in the heat of the day. Today we were pleasantly surprised. The Australian Bustard bird was active, we saw our first wild buffalo (with me getting a tad too close and having to run for cover), a beautiful monitor lizard, wallabies, wedge tail eagles and our very first Salty! Yes! Coming over one of the creek crossings and bigger than the 6”1 giant I live with, was a croc. He silently slipped away but kept his watchful eyes upon us and looked for all its worth a large log.
    We reach Boorooloola a once lawless town with high crime including duffing, murder and robbery. It’s seen some characters come and go. It’s now resigned to its quiet place as a gateway to the McArthur river and fishing adventures in the gulf. Upon reaching the tiny township of Boorooloola we were invited to the local NAIDOC ball! Not only were we invited but we were asked to judge the best dressed in all categories. What a night! I’m not sure how it happened but we were in for an interesting night with locals. Made to feel very welcome and felt like part of the mob. Andrew a tad out of his comfort zone judging best dressed, but his dedication and commitment to the job was stellar.
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  • Hells Gate, Burketown and Karumba

    July 27, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Hells gate heading west is defined by two large boulders which at one time was the gateway to wild and lawless territory. It was a fend for yourself rather than be protected by the law kind of outpost. Of course in early Australian history many of the outback regions were filled with wild frontier adventurers, vagabonds, thieves and rebels. Glad to say that Hells Gate today is somewhat an oasis after a long dirt road from Borroloola. There we perched on the grass overlooking a billabong and watching the water birds in their evening tadpole feeding frenzy. The most beautiful & agile Kingfishers held the show. It’s place to have a cold beer and enjoy the solitude of the outback and plan our next few days.
    Having read Burke and Wills (Sarah Murgartroyd - absolutely brilliant) we were fascinated by the idea of going to Burketown. Fascination resolved with not much to say! In fact Burke did not even go within 100km of there. The town decided to bathe in the expeditions glory regardless! We did actually get to the actual spot of Camp 119 which was the northern most camp 30 miles south of where they capitulated & retreated. Say what you like about the buffoon Robert Burke but he (with Wills, Gray & King) walked from Innaminka to the Gulf & back in 3 and a half months. Yes, they walked 60km per day leading camels through 50 kinds of bloody hard country.
    On the way however we came across the majestic Leichhardt River and falls. ( He didn’t name it, rather I think it was Gregory named it for him. As a general rule explorers did not name places after themselves). Beautiful spot to admire one of these amazing northern rivers which included the Nicholson River crossing. Our deepest and longest crossing yet.
    Now, the sea is a difficult place to get to on the Gulf ( as Burke discovered) so Andrew suggested destination Karumba! It is the only place you can get right to the sea edge in the gulf country. What better way to do this than at the Sunset Tavern watching the sun set over the Arafura Sea in the Gulf of Carpentaria. How amazing.
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  • Queensland

    July 30, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Imagine our surprise to hit the tropical north and it’s freezing cold! Yep. We both reached immediately for our long sleeves. No amount of rainforests, waterfalls or rolling green hills could quell our shock at this temperature drop. What is seriously going on?
    Arriving in the old township of Ravenshoe we found the fire going in this big old iconic Aussie pub and that would do us for the night. The Ravenshoe Hotel in the Atherton Tablelands is the highest pub in QLD standing at an elevation of 916m. Andrew just loves these old establishments and I must admit I’ve grown quite fond of the stories they tell of times long ago and characters who visit them. The Ravenshoe has maintained some of its old world charm with a great wooden staircase, original floorboards ( now sagging a bit) , French doors and extensive wide verandah. The old dining room had a roaring fire, tables set with silver, curtains that look for all the world like elaborate bedspreads and some charming restauranters. Still in shock from the cold we snuggled up together in the quaint old tv room with its antique sideboards and beveled mirrors and watched a movie for the first time in five weeks!
    From Ravenshoe the country was picturesque but as we drive through rainforests the next day, clouds descended, it started to rain and the thermometer continued to plummet. Time to cover the swag and head for the comfort of a beach cabin in Cardwell and watch clouds roll in over the islands. Life is tough.
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  • Cardwell and the Cassowary Coast

    July 31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    Time to park the old red Ute under cover and take a break from driving. Andrew remembered Cardwell as a picturesque little place not as busy as Mission Beach ( up the road )! It IS a picturesque little place with gorgeous views to Hitchinbrook Island. Here although we were cold , we were able to dodge some rain, drink some margaritas, walk and just relax ( isn’t that what holidays are about?? ). Except if you are woken up by the Curly Curlew Call. Anyone who has heard this bird shrill in the dead of night knows what I’m talking about here. Like a piercing continuous screeching at 12 am, 1 am, 2 am and finally maybe stopped around 3 am or were we so dog tired that we blocked it out and fitfully slept!
    Surrounding this area is sugar cane country. Stretching almost 6km out to sea from Lucinda is the Offshore Sugar loading jetty. We did go for a drive to check it out. Apparently longest jetty in the southern hemisphere. I’m sure it’s an amazing engineering feat!
    From sugar cane country we drive high into the world heritage listed rainforest country. On this drive, lazy cattle sleep on roads and give way to bush turkeys darting into thickets and lush forests hiding the elusive cassowary ( which sadly we didn’t see).
    Wallaman Falls are the highest, permanent, single-drop waterfall in Australia. This is part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, home to some of the oldest rainforests on earth and many endangered plants and animals. It literally takes ones breath away when you see it and I could not resist the temptation to walk down it ( the walk back up is a killer ) and it was worth every step. Just spectacular.
    A quick stop for a beer at the pub with no beer and check out the inspirational mosaic mural. 42 metres of it.
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  • Townsville and a hidden treasure!

    August 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Townsville is where a little bit of city meets a lot of country and makes for a gorgeous laid back place for a day or two. We experienced the BEST margaritas EVER at the tequila bar overlooking the ocean on The Strand. I discovered that Townsville folk are up early ( before 6) and everyone is moving to the rhythm of the sea. Walking dogs, walking, running, swimming and generally just moving about. A walk to Kissing Point to discover Townsville’s history in the wars and it is beautifully preserved and presented. Then to the dizzy heights of The Castle ( next time we will walk it), with 360 degree views of Townsville and surrounds. Pretty stunning. Definitely coming back to laid back Townsville and those ‘tekilla’ drinks.
    Heading south we stop at Bowen which has sprawled as a coastal development since Andrew was here last ( 10 years ago). The big old beautiful pub is still there and we had a beer for old times sake. But, we’ve discovered that many of these big old pubs don’t provide accommodation and frankly both of us are swagged out!
    Later that day we stumble into a hidden gem just a little further south at a place called Hideaway Bay. This is where the forest meets the sea surrounded by a back drop of green hills and mountains. This is where palms reach out to kiss the ocean and sun sets wrap you up in their splendour. It’s just breathtakingly gorgeous…
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  • Paradise Lost

    August 4, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Not every day was bliss on our travels. On this particular day, Andrew promised that if we left paradise hideaway, he’d take me to paradise Clareview beach! Hmmmmm! With great anticipation we made our way to this ‘ paradise ‘ beach. It’s no exaggeration to say the camping area was crowded over with caravans so thick I couldn’t see the sea!!!!!
    “Oh not quite how I remember it “ said Andrew.
    “ Never mind. I’ll take you to this beautiful outback town with a majestic pub”.
    I’m a little nervous at this stage but when you are with someone who moves as fast as Andrew, you quickly learn to go with the flow.
    PLEASE check out the photo marked majestic outback hotel! No further explanation needed. That may have been the end of this story. But, it wasn’t !
    Andrew decided that a $ 5 swag camp out back was our best option, given the late afternoon and the great stretch of nothingness ahead.
    Apart from the ‘ majestic’ pub, all looked ok. Nice grassy patch. Toilets and hot showers!
    About 10 PM the first freight train roared by giving the pub a loud couple of train whistle blowing sounds! Hmmm. Railway line about 10 feet from camp! That’s ok. Shouldn’t be anymore!
    About 10:30 PM the waft began. I don’t mean the sweet scent of frangipani! I mean the smell of sewer. Stinking, fetid, fusty, malodorous, musty, noisome, putrid, and rank. This smell permeated the entire camp area making one nauseous and bilious. Doonas quickly over noses. It might disappear. It did not. It got worse! It persisted all through the damp dewy night.
    At around midnight the second freight train came rumbling through giving another almighty train whistle blowing! As if that was not enough a THIRD freight train came through around 4 AM. Andrew insists that there really was a majestic hotel in the town. I don’t think so. If anyone has ever had the misfortune of visiting Marlborough, you will know exactly what I mean.
    Anyway, Andrew got his just desserts. On a midnight run to the toilet that fateful night, he tripped over a barbed wire fence (as is his custom) and received a nasty gash to the knee.
    Needless to say we were away early next day and no more promises of paradise or anything majestic!

    But,wait until you see the beautiful Criterion Hotel we stayed at in Rocky! Truly majestic.
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  • Rockhampton to Hervey Bay

    August 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Rockhampton with its big, bold, majestic buildings was a treat. An easy afternoon walking along yet another Fitzroy River ( three in Australia. Popular bloke)named after the governor of NSW. Rockhampton itself is a name chosen in reference to rock formations in the river and to Hampton, England. Copper, tin and other minerals were the start of this towns growth and later came to include grain, sheep and cattle. Here we found the elusive majestic hotel Criterion. Staying here we were swept back in time to big wide verandahs, lace iron work , sweeping staircases, lead light windows, long window drapes and ornate old furniture. Rocky is a big beautiful country town and a great place to take a break before we head back to the coast.
    Andrew had heard that Stanage Bay was worth a look and it was quite beautiful. Some 80 kms from the main highway and dirt road into a tiny fishing space surrounded by sweeping ocean vistas. Not great for camping though. To be honest we’d had enough of swagging it.
    Thirty five years ago I had camped at a place called 1770 ( named after the year that rogue Cook landed ashore there). How the place had changed. From dirt road and fishing shacks to highway, shopping centres, van parks, people ( lots of them) and boats. It was still beautiful but busy! We had a gorgeous night at a fantastic airbnb overlooking the river. Here we tasted the best homemade tortilla chips with Mexican burritos as we watched sunset once again over the ocean. Divine. Breakfast the next day … three shots of Bundy Rum at the Bundaberg Brewery!! Yum
    Hervey Bay was a little treat catching up with old friends and sharing laughs and stories of times gone by, walking the esplanade and the big old jetty.
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  • Rainbow Beach to Brunswick Heads

    August 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Rainbow Beach just south of Hervey Bay seemed like a great place to stop for coffee and a stretch. It’s beautiful. It’s low key. It’s still a little unspoilt. We’d definitely consider coming back here.
    Andrew and I have two favourite places and both begin with B! Brunswick Heads is a quaint picturesque little seaside town with stunning beaches and a gorgeous river. Locally referred to as Bruns’, we’ve had many great times here and once considered buying and moving here. Way out of our price range now but will remain a definite favourite place to holiday. We now feel like we are coming home. The comfort of the known saw us spend a couple of nights here. Walking, swimming, eating, drinking, whale watching and catching up with family friends. It sparkled like a jewel with its bright blue sky, sunshine, and turquoise clear waters. Love it.
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  • Half Moon Station to Home

    August 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Half Moon Station is a large cattle property belonging to a friend located near Tenterfield in the Great Dividing Range, Think of the Lost World meets Jurassic Park and you have an idea of where we are. Some time ago, our horses were sent to a family friend on Half Moon Station for breeding. It’s wild, it’s mountainous, it’s remote and it is breathtakingly beautiful and rugged. The drive in is quite bizarre and moves from scrubby gum forest on a deeply winding road, to lush tall tree ferns and rainforest gullies. It was such a pleasure to have all horses including a new foal ( Billie) run to meet us. We spent the day touring the station , admiring the view and sharing the best afternoon tea surrounded by all horses.

    From Half Moon we decided to continue on the direct mountain road for the (very long) 80 kms to Tenterfield. What a spectacular drive it was. Winding its way along the stunning Rocky River and majestic gums (which sadly are being choked to death by an invasive fast growing vine).

    On our last night we stopped at the Old Bank Bed and Breakfast in Glen Innes. Getting out of the car, we instantly felt the cold change in temperature and thankfully we had a delicious fire going to greet us. Perfect place to stay.

    The final day's drive from Glen Innes to Molong was spent finishing our latest book (we read 4 books during the trip) on early exploration of Australia. It was such a pleasure to read to Andrew and share in the stories of our history. As we neared home, we saw the lush green hills and paddocks of the surrounding countryside as there had been 60mm of rain during our absence which has had good effect despite the very low temperatures.

    We have had an absolutely amazing adventure traversing this gorgeous continent of ours. We’ve met some great characters, we swam in spectacular gorges, slept under vast skies watching the stars and the moon shine over us, explored dirt tracks, spotted wildlifes, visited some gorgeous historic pubs, drank too much, ate too much, read, drove and loved it so much we are already planning our next trip!

    Find Penguins has been a great way to share our adventures and importantly record and remember our trip. If you have followed us, thank you. It’s been a pleasure. For now we are home. Farm looking green and lush. Cattle looking fat and happy.

    Our thanks to Belinda & Tim for looking after the place while we were away.

    The old 2012 diesel Navara farm ute did the 15,000km (9,000km on dirt) without missing a beat. She set the pace on all surfaces and overtook 1000's of caravans, Toyotas and RAMs with style! She received some basic maintenance (brakes, belts, fluids, new rear springs, new front hubs) before we left as well as 4 air filters and an oil change in the Repco carpark at Darwin. She carried a 750kg load and consumed less than 10.5L per 100km all the way.

    This is Red Rover over and out until next time ...
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    Trip end
    August 11, 2024