Long Way Home

July – August 2024
  • BushRoos
Saying goodbye to the Magnificent Seven it’s time to traverse the top end of Australia and East Coast home. Read more
  • BushRoos

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  • Australia Australia
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  • 21footprints
  • 32days
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  • Middle Lagoon

    July 11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    From Broome we head up the Dampier Coast and get as far as this magic place called Middle Lagoon. It’s a magnificent part of this far western tip of Australia. Our home is a bush camp with some minimal facilities and a favourite amongst some campers. We can swim here! Yes we can. In the ocean too. It’s a rough and bumpy ride into this spot but the rewards did pay off. If it was handier we’d be back in a beat.Read more

  • Gibb River Road to Manning Gorge.

    July 13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    It’s only 30 degrees. Just sayin! We drive back past Boab trees and termite mounds.
    Termite mounds are
    castles of dirt and termite spit. They are of great value even as they erode over decades or even centuries into small hills. They provide sustenance, shade and lookouts for many vertebrates apparently. From snakes to lizards to mice and birds. We look at them through a different lens now.

    Into the majestic Napier Rangers we go. The Kimberly is truly a feast for the senses. The scenery is often spectacular as we drive across lush creek crossings, into gorges and all the while surrounded by wild flowers and birds. Bird lovers this is your paradise. We rise to the chorus of birds, we move to their calls during the day and lulled by their cacophony by twilight.
    Around us you can actually smell the flowers in bloom. It’s a delicious nectar kind of scent. Beautiful.
    Early morning before the sun rises we set off to hike to the Upper Manning Gorge. This starts with putting all our worldly possessions ( ie phone and hiking shoes) into a floating tub and swimming across the river to get to the walking track! Yes this was the only way to get to the track! Now the views to the gorge are gorgeous but nothing prepares us for the spectacular gorge and waterfall itself. As we were up so early, we have the gorge to ourselves. An early morning waterfall swim! My photos won’t do this place justice but every step of the 5 km is worth it!
    I might add that to do the Manning Gorge Hike it’s been a stay in yet another very crowded bush camp. I’m going to be somewhat ungenerous here and say I simply do not understand what entices people with their enormous caravans followed with their enormous loud generators to service their air conditioning, television , heating whatever and totally spoil it for those of us who wish to enjoy nature, it’s sights, it’s sounds and scents. Maybe we just need to have designated areas. The I’m travelling in my actual house and the I’m travelling with my swag! Rant over. Manning Gorge spectacular.
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  • The Heart of the Kimberly

    July 14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    From Manning Gorge we go deep into the heart of the Kimberly region. Mt Elizabeth Station is the heart of the Kimberley region in Western Australia. Located not far off the iconic Rocky, dusty bumpy, Gibb River Road. Mt Elizabeth is a half-million acre, fully operational cattle station. It also runs a tourism enterprise, offering accommodation, camping, meals and station life.
    It is owned and operated by the Burton family, who have been Kimberley pastoralists for over thirty years and runs approximately 6000 head of cattle for the Burton Beef Company, which supplies Kimberley beef to the local area!
    Andrew had his first taste of Kimberly beef here. You can buy and bbq your own. His assessment is “ I think there is nothing better than the good old grass fed poll short horn from Gamboola”! Haha. Of course he was always going to say that.
    Another great swimming hole, check out my pics. It’s well worth the visit into this station, which is a bit of an oasis after the rough and tumble dusty Gibb River road.
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  • Kununurra

    July 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    It’s 34 degrees today! The temperatures sit mainly in the 30s. Perfect.
    Today we continue along the stony, rutted Gibb River road, crossing small creek beds and stopping occasionally at a gorge, lookout or fall. Letting the road and inclination take us.
    It’s definitely croc country now with a freshie spotted at one of the falls.
    The larger ‘salties’ live in the sea, but they prefer estuaries and freshwater swamps across northern Australia and we are informed they often venture inland during the breeding season. I read somewhere these prehistoric creatures can hold their breath for up to 8 hours and travel up to 900 km. They rule the North! Most definitely. Haven’t seen one yet but we see plenty of signs warning us of their presence.
    We did come across two snakes today. As temperatures here continue to be warm, I am guessing snakes remain active all year round. We saw a beautiful shiny black headed python ( see pic) and a long thin dugite we think.
    Onward over the Durack River and then crossing the mighty and iconic Pentecost River. Looking up from here we are surrounded by the magnificent Cockburn Range that rises up 600m over the surrounding plains. It really does leave you in awe of this incredible landscape. It’s a perfect spot to camp and watch fellow travellers crossing. One poor car had a flat tyre as they started to cross. Sorted by the time we passed!
    We didn’t camp but chose to continue following the range up to Wyndham! Thinking this might be a great spot to watch the mighty rivers flow, perhaps from the balcony of an old pub! The stuff of dreams! Wyndham is closed! Full Stop ( see my pics)! Don’t bother with Wyndham.
    We had done quite a few kms today and decided to stretch it to Kununurra. Glad we did.
    Enjoyed a delicious meal at the Pump House Restaurant overlooking the Ord. Divine
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  • The Mighty Ord

    July 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today has been spectacular. We set off with Steve from Silent Tours in Kununurra to explore the mighty Ord River. It did not disappoint in its beauty and its might. We spent 6 hours just us and Steve traversing this river’s ecosystem with its rich wildlife, birdlife, flora and scenery. Early morning over Lake Kununurra and the river Ord was the perfect way to start a day.
    Spectacular gorges, cliffs and crevices surrounded us. Water lilies bloomed at first sunlight. Birds were in their paradise. From kites, kingfishers, ospreys, cormorants to my favourite new bird ‘ the Jesus bird’ which uses its three large toes to walk on lily pads! So cute.
    We saw freshwater crocs sunning themselves and then sliding silently into the river on our approach. They really are quite shy and more afraid of us I think.
    Steve took us on a gorgeous walk where we saw the tallest most majestic paper bark trees ever. I am still in awe of their majesty. On to a spectacular water fall and swimming hole. All to ourselves!!!!
    My photos do this trip no justice and as I find myself apologising for crappy photography, I yearn to become a good one with some good gear ( any tips here appreciated)!
    I would thoroughly recommend Silent tours with Steve if anyone is ever up this way.
    Kununurra is a natural beauty with a dam that seems to have only enhanced the rivers eco system.
    A late lunch at the Hootchery rum bar, some taste testing ( maybe a purchase or two) and an afternoon nap.
    Such a perfect day!
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  • The Ord

    July 17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Andrew was keen on the research of the this river system and says: “The Ord River Scheme has been a huge government experiment spanning 3 decades from 1952. It's generally failed to become Australia's northern food-basket with major initiatives to grow different crops failing due to natural pests & soil salinity. For example, attempts to grow rice resulted in Magpie Geese arriving in numbers that blackened the sky and shut the airport. As far as government blunders go however, it's been a good one that has delivered something special ecologically. The enormous dam system has created an amazingly rich man-sponsored ecosystem that seems both out-of-place in its vast arid surroundings and also as if it's somehow survived as a relic of the past from an ancient geological era.”
    And just to prove a point, this magpie goose flew into the pub last night and strutted around like he owned the joint. Super cute and friendly. Even had a drink from the bar ( of water )!
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  • NITMILUK- KATHERINE GORGE

    July 17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Today we traverse the Savannah Way through the Kimberly. Kapoch trees in flower and towering ranges surround us. Stopping to stretch and lookout over the impressive Victoria River home of the Salties and Barramundi – icon of the Kimberley.
    The Barramundi are apparently delicious eating and fishermen say quite thrilling to catch. They also live in both freshwater and saltwater, change sex and eat just about anything! We drive on to the disappointment called Timber Creek with its RAM Car specials and long large houses on wheels lining up for fuel and roadhouse staples.
    A big days drive and finding a camp was difficult with people everywhere! They were camped behind rocks, behind bushes, bull dust pits and multi corporation caravan parks, so crowded! The Nitmiluk National Park was a surprise in its quiet serenity and a grassy patch for our swag. Finished off with a cocktail by the pool. Not bad.
    Katherine Gorge now called NITMILUK ( cicada), makes sense to me as you hear them on approach. Katherine got its name after the Katherine River, which was named by explorer John McDouall Stuart in 1862 pafter his sponsor's (James Chambers) daughter.
    We are reading so much about early Australia, its ancestors and its explorers. Onto our third book Ludwig Leichhardt what a story!!!
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  • Litchfield NP

    July 18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    From Nitmiluk Gorge to Edith Falls for a swim. From here it wasn’t far to Litchfield National Park where we found that all the campsites had been booked months in advance by campers much more organised than us. Following a well-established Australian precedence, we proclaimed Terra Nullius on an unoccupied site we liked at Florence Falls and then declared it ours at dark. No one turned up so no problems except for the family from hell next door: "Cooper, you know it's not nice to hit your sister with the shovel, say sorry mate. Ethan, don't light the beautiful Paper Bark trees with your fire-stick..." And so on till late at night.
    Superb morning walk to Florence Falls and Wangi Falls before a coffee at a great little Cafe in the bush and then on to Darwin avoiding a lot of wallabies wanting to play Death By Ute. So many cars, so many people, so many traffic lights! Andrew serviced the ute ready for the trip home in the Repco carpark before we arrived at our lovely apartment overlooking Darwin Harbour. A soft bed, a hot shower, cold beer, food not cooked over campfire - we will adapt for a few days I'm sure!
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  • Darwin

    Jul 19–23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Darwin and up to Shenanigans. Here we danced until 2 AM, we drank, we ate, caught up with friends, we walked and then walked until I had blisters, we scootered like a couple of teenagers, ate, drank and danced some more. We backed to backed it! We slept on a soft comfy bed with four pillows and clean sheets from the wee hours to the late morning. We watched the sun sets over the Timor Sea and the full moon rise above it. Colours of bright blue days filled with warm sunshine and green palms. Late afternoons with yellow, orange and pink hues of the northern sunsets. It WAS tinged with the sadness of missed opportunities with our girls but we made the best of it all. We love Darwin and, now it’s time to pack our bags into the dusty red Ute and continue our journey across the Savannah Way and into Kakadu.Read more

  • Kakadu

    July 23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Kakadu the language of the Gagudju!
    Jabiru is home to the Flying Foxes. The small red and larger black. Stopping by a lake to lunch in the small town of Jabiru, we were inundated by this noisy social chorus hanging about in the trees. They are actually a bat but unlike bats do not use echolocation to hunt. Rather they have astute senses of smell and sight. I’m not sure what they are saying to each other but it’s loud and it’s raucous and it sounds a lot like swearing! Jabiru seems like a peaceful town surrounded by and actually in, the vast Kakadu National Park. Our stop here was brief but beautiful.
    Today we took the sometimes graded but mostly rutted road into Jim Jim Falls over small creek crossings to eventually get to the falls walk. The name Andjimdjim comes from the word for fresh water pandanus. The walk into the falls is rugged and rocky with some pretty steep boulders to scramble over in the end. It’s all worth it though as you come to a sandy beach , with a swimming hole surrounded by enormous cliffs. A short swim and more rock scrambling gets you to the plunge pool and under the water fall. It’s a trickle in the dry season but still spectacular. We’d come in the afternoon and the crowds had dispersed. Imagine having this to ourselves (well me as Andrew doesn’t swim)! All I could see looking up was blue sky and towering rocks 200m high. Looking down the plunge pool was a deep, deep blue. High above, the water cascaded down in rivulets and the sound of birds echoed above. Sounds in this plunge pool are amplified , the sound of my breath, my gentle splashing, the water spraying. I don’t have a photo as I had to swim and climb to get here but I felt it.

    Tonight we are back camped in our swag and under the Kakadu skies at Jim Jim Falls campground. A beautiful bush camp surrounded by majestic gorge cliffs which capture the afternoon sun perfectly. We witness the display in hues of red, orange yellow and everything in between during this cascade of late afternoon sunshine reflected on the surrounding cliffs.

    The full moon rose at about 8pm & made for very effective daylight right through to morning - incredibly bright & a most excellent night for cattle duffing as Andrew’s father would say.
    On a side note people who know Andrew would know the great value he places on hard gotten firewood. Often we collect prior to entering parks or camps. He bought a brand new you beaut mini chainsaw for our trip just for the job. Sometimes we drive into a camp racked and stacked like some local wood suppliers! Anyway on this occasion we’d dropped our wood at our campsite prior to our walk to the falls. Imagine the consternation, the indignation and the exasperation of the wood collector upon returning to camp to find most of it stolen! Yes stolen. Non other than by the people camped next to us! Andrew could not help himself. He conoitered ( it’s not a word but sounds just like what he did) about close to their fire and immediately recognised his logs! He told them so too! Poor campers thought it was a free for all. And I don’t blame them as we do look like the local wood suppliers after all!
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