Marble Bar to Wallal Downs Station

Red Dust, Jasper Rocks & Ocean Breezes.
Today we did our best to pack up camp early at Marble Bar and set out to see the actual Marble Bar—the fascinating rock formation that gave the town its name. Though originally thought to be marble, it’s actually jasper, a beautifully patterned rock. Recent cyclones and floods have devastated the region, uprooting tall gum trees and depositing sand across the landscape. Despite the changes, we managed to find some jasper samples with Zoe’s help and admired their intricate patterns.

We chose an alternate route out via Bore Line Road, heading into Coppin’s Gap. The road turned to dirt, and the final stretch required a 4WD—complete with a tricky little creek crossing. The gorge itself felt wonderfully remote, although a few tourists with drones broke the stillness.I took a beautiful, crisp, and refreshing swim in the clear water. It was cool but invigorating.

Leaving Coppin’s Gap, we continued along Bore Line Road in search of the old township of Shay Gap. We’d just met a policewoman who had worked there in the 1990s. Now, there’s barely a trace—just remnants of a bitumen road hinting that a mining town once stood here. We were astonished by how completely these mining settlements are dismantled, leaving little more than memories behind. It’s a lovely spot nonetheless, ringed by rocky hills and great views—perfect for lunch (yet another of our trusty salad-and-tuna wraps, a consistent and appreciated staple!). I don’t usually write much about our meals, but today reminded me how yummy even the simplest lunches shared in stunning locations can be.

From here, we pushed on toward the coast. Our fellow traveller Zoe had secured us a night at Wallal Station, just behind the dunes of Eighty Mile Beach. It’s a free camp on station land, and you can hear the ocean from our tents. A quick stroll over the dunes brought us to the beach—a truly breathtaking stretch of coastline.

Later, we drove up to the caravan park at Eighty Mile to meet Zoe’s friend Jacqui for sunset drinks overlooking the Indian Ocean. She shared fascinating insights into BHP’s current desert wind farm and hydrogen power projects, and even gave us a little tour of the mining workers’ accommodation.

Back at our station camp, we rustled up a delicious Mexican-style feast—complete with fresh avocado, cheese, salad and sour cream. A delicious end to the day.

As night began to fall, a strong dew set in and the temperature dropped quickly. We snuggled into our respective sleeping spaces for an early night, lulled to sleep by the sound of ocean waves. This is our last night camping. While there’s a touch of sadness in that, I’m definitely looking forward to a real bed that doesn’t need setting up and packing down every morning.Read more