More walkers join us

Our next stop was at Se Cathedral, the largest church among the group in Old Goa, and when it was built in the first quarter of the 17th century, the largest in the whole of Asia. Just as Yashasvi was starting to explain about the cathedral, she was interrupted by a couple asking if they could join us. They had tried unsuccessfully to book a tour of their own. So, after a quick call to her boss, Yashasvi allowed Hiren and Akal, an Indian couple, now living in New Jersey with a daughter living in Preston, to join us. They proved to be good company. 

The entire structure of the cathedral was built on a raised plinth made of laterite, a local hard stone. Architecturally, the exterior of the building is Tuscan and the interior Corinthian. The church today looks rather odd because the tower on the right-hand side as you look from the front collapsed when it was struck by lightning. It has never been replaced. 

The main altar in the church is dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria. The richly gilded panel depicts her martydom.

Outside the cathedral, I was surprised to see the first transgender toilets I think I've seen anywhere! I was also struck by a modern sculpture installed around the well in the grounds, which depicts a prostitute weighed down with the faces of all the men who'd abused her on the back of her dress. She is talking to Jesus, who tells her that if she drinks the water from the well, she will be absolved of all her sins! I don't know what happens to the men!

Adjoining the cathedral is a convent, now housing the Archaeological Museum of Old Goa and the Church of St Francis of Assisi. This church was built in 1661 of laterite blocks, which were then lime plastered. All of the churches in Old Goa were painted white after construction as a sign of purity. 

Inside, there is a highly decorative baroque altar with a large statue of St Francis of Assisi hugging Jesus on his cross. Sadly, no photos were allowed inside.

Next, we visited St Catherine's Chapel, striking because of the shaft of sunlight illuminating the interior. Outside, there was an impressive stepwell. Hiren told me I will see much more elaborate ones when I get to Rajasthan.Read more