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  • Happy Days Travel

Solo Trip to India and Nepal

This is my first solo overseas trip since Mark died earlier this year. I'm excited to return to India and to explore Nepal for the first time, but it will be strange not to have Mark with me to share the experience with. Leggi altro
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    🇮🇳 Delhi, India

    A cooking class with Lubna

    6 aprile, India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    To get back to Lubna's, the three of us squeezed into the back of an auto. Once there, we set to work cooking several dishes for dinner. We prepared a very different type of chicken biryani which we smoked with burning charcoal, saag paneer, dal, mashed aubergine, bhuna raita, and flatbreads. During the cooking process, we were instructed by Lubna, and assisted by the two houseboys. Fiona got told off for not cutting the onions correctly 😂. Family members kept coming and going. It was all very social and enjoyable.

    Later, we were joined by Lubna's husband as we sat down to enjoy the fruits of our labours. It was all delicious.

    After dinner, we took an auto back to our hotel, passing India Gate, which looked beautiful illuminated in the colours of the Indian flag. We vowed to come back to photograph it at night when we return to Delhi after our tour.

    When we got back to Karol Bagh, we went for a walk through the chaotic market and enjoyed a pistachio lassi before returning to the hotel.
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  • Brunch and vegetable shopping

    6 aprile, India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We both slept a lot better last night. When we were up and about, we ordered a black coffee and a lemon tea on the room and made our plans for the day.

    We took an auto to Connaught Place. It was Fiona's first auto experience and she loved it! We went straight to the Flavour Factory where I went the other day with Mansi. We shared a masala dosa and a tomato and onion uttapam and we both had a sweet lassi. Fiona is getting braver with her food choices, although she's still very nervous about ice 😀. The ladies on the table next to us were celebrating a birthday, so they sent over a piece of cake for us. It was overly sweet and had more synthetic cream than cake, but we ate it to be polite 😊.

    After our brunch, we went for a walk around Connaught Place. Fiona got at least a year's worth of good luck when a pigeon pooped on her foot 😂. Being Monday, Central Park was closed, so we walked up to the street where all the state emporia are. They were just setting up a big craft and food fair, so we had some tasting samples. We bought some broccoli chips and some beetroot snacks for the train, and Fiona got some sweets to take home with her.

    We then took an auto back to our hotel, where we rested up for half an hour before taking another auto to our cooking class an hour away on the other side of the city. It was turning into a day completely about the food!

    We then took an auto back to our hotel, where we rested up for half an hour before taking another auto to our cooking class an hour away on the other side of the city. It was turning into a day completely about the food!

    Lubna, our host, welcomed us to her lovely home and garden. We had coffee and snacks, made by one of her two houseboys, in the lounge while we chatted about what we were going to cook. We then took a taxi to Lubna's favourite market to buy some missing ingredients. While we were there, we had some chaat. Fiona was very nervous about eating this street food, but she went with it and thought it was delicious. We also watched a guy making dosa dough.
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  • Fiona's first Indian biryani 😋

    5 aprile, India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We drove on to the Lotus Temple, Delhi's beautiful Bahau House of Worship. It offers a rare pocket of calm in the hectic city. It is an architectural masterpiece designed by Iranian-Canadian architect Fariborz Sahba in 1986 and, some say he based his design on tge Sydney Opera House. It is shaped like a lotus flower with 27 white marble petals. The temple was created to bring faiths together.

    When we got there, there were hundreds of people queuing to get in. They were having to stand for hours barefoot on hot tiles. We opted not to join the fray! We caught a fleeting glimpse of the temple as we passed by 😀.

    Our final stop of the afternoon wasn't on the itinerary. It was the inevitable shopping stop! We didn't linger 😂.

    We dropped Riaz off at the metro station and Kalim then drove us back to the hotel. Once there, we went across the road to the same restaurant I went to yesterday. We ordered a chicken dum biryani and a mutton fry biryani. I thought both were delicious. Luckily, despite the spice, Fiona agreed!
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  • Humayun's Tomb

    5 aprile, India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Our next stop was the highlight of the day - Humayun's Tomb. It is thought to have inspired the Taj Mahal, which it predates by 60 years. It was built for the Mughal emperor in 1570 by Haji Begum, Humayun's Persian-born wife. The tomb has both Persian and Mughal elements. The arched facade is inlaid with bands of white marble and red sandstone, and the building follows strict rules of Islamic geometry.

    The beautiful surrounding gardens contain the tombs of the emperor's favourite barber and Haji Begum.

    The entire site is breathtakingly beautiful. As usual, I took far too many photos 😀. Fiona was starting to feel the heat at this point, but a packet of salty crisps and plenty of water helped 😊.
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  • India Gate and Lodi Gardens

    5 aprile, India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I don't think either of us slept particularly well. When we were both awake, we went down to reception to get Fiona checked in, and then up to the roof for breakfast. I ordered one of my favourites - puri bhaji - and Fiona stayed cautious and had tea and toast. She did try mine, though, and she enjoyed it, so I think she might not play it so safe next time 😂.

    After breakfast, we went out for a walk. It was much calmer than yesterday afternoon, but it's still a lot to take in when it's your first time in India. I was relieved that Fiona seemed to really enjoy the chaos 😀.

    We returned to the hotel to freshen up ahead of our tour of New Delhi. Our driver, Kalim, picked us up at 2pm and we drove through the city to collect our guide, Riaz. It was Fiona's first chance to see Delhi in daylight. We passed around Connaught Place, and decided to return tomorrow to have dosas 😀.

    The first stop on our tour was Agrasen Ki Baoli, the only place that I had been to before. It was so much busier than when I was there a few days ago. Riaz proved to be a much more knowledgeable guide than the guy who was with me last time 😀.

    Our next stop was at India Gate, formerly known as the All India War Memorial. It is a prominent monument situated on the eastern edge of the ceremonial axis of New Delhi India, officially known as Kartavya Path. It stands as a memorial commemorating the 74,187 soldiers of the Indian Army who died between 1914 and 1921 in the First World War, in France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, East Africa, Gallipoli and the Third Anglo-Afghan War. Around 13,300 servicemen’s names, including those of some British soldiers and officers, are inscribed on the gate. Designed by Edwin Lutyens, the memorial draws inspiration from ancient Roman triumphal arches such as the Arch of Constantine and is frequently compared to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

    Riaz insisted on taking several photos of us from all angles 😂. This was repeated everywhere we went - he was a proper David Bailey 😂.

    From India Gate, we visited Lodi Gardens, a city park situated spread over 90 acres. It contains Muhammad Shah's tomb, the tomb of Sikandar Lodi, the Shisha Gumbad and the Bara Gumbad. These monuments date from the late Delhi Sultanate, during the Sayyid dynasty (1414–1451) and Lodi dynasty (1451–1526). As there is little architecture still standing from these periods, Lodi Gardens is an important archaeological site, and is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.

    The park was laid out by the British around the original structures. They were respectful of what was already there, and they carried out sensitive renovations on the tombs. They did name the place Lady Willingdon Park, though, after the wife of a British dignitry 😀.

    On Sundays, the gardens are a popular spot for family picnics. It was lovely to see so many locals enjoying the space. The tombs were stunning, and the setting was very picturesque.
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  • Fiona has arrived in Delhi 😍

    4 aprile, India ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    I had a quieter day yesterday. I didn't sleep well and I was up very early to submit the content I'd agreed to create for GreetHer in exchange for the meeting with Mansi on Thursday.

    After breakfast, I popped out for bananas and snacks, and then spent the rest of the day working.

    This morning, I had breakfast and then got myself organised to check out and move over to Hotel Perfect in Karol Bagh, the starting hotel for our Intrepid tour. I booked a taxi through Uber, as I had my luggage with me. The hotel porter put my big case on the back seat of the taxi. I wondered why he hadn't put it in the boot, but as it turned out, it was a good decision 😀. My driver had serious road rage from the start. He drove with his hand permanently on the horn and loudly berated every other person on the road. He was an accident waiting to happen! And so it proved. We crashed into an auto alongside us! The side of the taxi was damaged, as was the boot which sprang open and wouldn't close again. Both drivers and the two young male passengers from the auto got out and started having a major argument in the middle of the street. I stayed in the car 😀. After about ten minutes shouting, both drivers got back in their vehicles and continued their journeys 😂.

    I checked into the Hotel Perfect. I was a bit worried, but the staff were very friendly and the room was perfectly fine. I settled in and sorted out the stuff I'm leaving here when we go off on tour.

    Later, I went out to explore the local area, all the while checking on the status of Fiona's flight. It took off from Heathrow an hour late, but was making up time on route.

    I found that our hotel is in the middle of a local commercial area, mainly filled with wedding shops. It was really busy. I ended up having a late lunch in a local restaurant just across the road from our hotel. It was packed, so I took the only free seat - at a table occupied by a group of young Indians. I ordered chicken dum biryani which was delicious, and only cost around £2.40.

    Back at the hotel, I decided to try to sleep for a while before heading to the airport to meet Fiona. I think I managed to get a couple of hours. At around 11pm, I took an Uber to the airport, where I had a strong black coffee to keep me awake. Fiona's flight landed at 12.06, just one minute later than originally scheduled. She got through security and baggage reclaim without incident and I met her at around 1am. We took a taxi back to the Hotel Perfect, arriving at 1.45am. We were both extremely tired, so it wasn't long before we turned it in.
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  • Meeting with Mansi

    2 aprile, India ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Later, I met with Mansi and we visited Gandhi Darshan Park, peaceful landscaped gardens with a pavillion that houses photos relating to Gandhi and the boat he used to cross the Mahi River at Kanapur during the salt march.

    We then crossed the road to visit Raj Ghat, where a simple black marble platform topped with an eternal flame marks the spot where Gandhi was cremated.

    Afterwards, we took an auto to Connaught Place and had masala dosa and tomato and onion uttapam for lunch.

    It was extremely hot today. By the time I'd walked back to the hotel, I'd done nearly 20,000 steps and I was completely knackered!
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  • National Gandhi Museum

    2 aprile, India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today, I had a GreetHer ambassador experience with Mansi. I arranged to meet her at the National Gandhi Museum at 11am. I decided to get there for 10, so I could go in before she arrived, and then we could use our time for other things.

    On arrival, I really liked the art on the outer walls, and the beautiful gardens. The museum itself was really interesting and well laid out. It was all done with a great deal of respect and admiration for Mahatma Gandhi. I was interested to see all the exhibits relating to his years in South Africa. I had seen the same photos displayed in the museum in Johannesburg.
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  • Purana Qila

    1 aprile, India ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Afterwards, I walked to Purana Qila, Delhi's 'Old Fort'. This was a haven of calm and tranquility away from the craziness of the city's traffic. I was amazed at the serenity of the place as soon as I entered through the majestically imposing Bada Darwaza gateway. All I could hear was birdsong. The tree-shaded landscaped gardens were lush, green, and beautiful.

    The fort was built by Afghan ruler Sher Shah (1538 - 1545) during his brief ascendancy over Humayun. Just a few years later, in 1556, Mughal Emperor Humayun died here when he fell down the steps of his library.
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  • The National Crafts Museum

    1 aprile, India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After breakfast (no eggs again 😃), I booked an auto on Uber to take me to the National Crafts Museum. The museum is a combination of galleries displaying traditional art and crafts from every region of India, and a village complex made up of 15 huts built in the style of various Indian states, where artists and craftspeople demonstrate their skills to the public. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit. Before I even went in, I photographed all the different styles of painting decorating the outer walls of the museum.Leggi altro

  • Government-run emporiums

    31 marzo, India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After breakfast (no eggs on the buffet, so I just had a banana and a coffee), I walked over to Connaught Place to visit a whole street of government-run emporiums, each one representing the textiles and handicrafts of a different state of India. Online, it said that they opened at 10am. When I got there at 9.50, I discovered that they don't open until 11! So, I used my unexpected free time to have a second breakfast/early lunch. I had a delucious tomato and onion uttapam that set me up for the rest of the day.

    When the shops opened, I retraced my steps. I went to Khadi first, a shop selling the hand-spun and woven natural fibre cloth promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as a symbol of the homeland in the struggle for Indian independence from the British. The term is used throughout the Indian subcontinent. The first piece of the hand-woven cloth was made in the Sabarmati Ashram of Gandhi in 1917. The coarseness of the cloth led Gandhi to call it khadi. The cloth is made from cotton, but it may also include silk or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a charkha. It is a versatile fabric that remains cool in summer and warm in winter. To improve its appearance, khadi is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. I've been looking for khadi all over India as a suitable fabric for doing sashiko on, so when I was faced with a whole shopful of it, I couldn't resist! I ended up buying 8 metres of it in shades of blue and purple. It was only £1.50/metre!

    I didn't go in all of the shops, but I did visit Gujarat ahead of my November trip, and I did go into tge Rajasthan outlet. There, I bought four block-printed cotton stoles, the type I had refrained from buying all the time I was in Rajasthan 😄.

    Later, I wandered back to the hotel, taking photos of street art along the way. I just made it back before the heavens opened and there was an almighty storm!
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  • Exploring Paharganj

    30 marzo, India ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    I worked on some blog posts about dark tourism this morning. Later, I went out to explore my local neighbourhood. There are so many shops around here, catering for every local and traveller's needs. I bought two shirts and some basics like fruit and some flattened rice so that I can make authentic poha at home. I had lunch in Madan Cafe, which was recommended in Lonely Planet. I knew I was in the right place as soon as I walked in. All the other customers were white tourists! I hadn't seen any up to this point - they were all clearly LP readers 😂.Leggi altro

  • The end of the tour

    29 marzo, India ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    The final food stop was for a mango lassi. It was delicious, and Zubair assured me it would help with my digestion. I was definitely full, and wouldn't need to eat again for the rest of the day!

    We also visited Khari Baoli, Asia's largest spice market. We only went to one stall, where a staff member gave me a quick overview of the spices on sale. I bought some powdered mint and a ground biryani spice mix, but it all felt a bit rushed. I'd love to go back and explore further.

    After the spices, we visited the 17th-century Fatehpuri Masjid, built by Fatehpuri Begum, one of Shah Jahan's wives. It is a haven of tranquillity after the frantic streets outside. After the First War of Independence in 1857, the British sold the mosque to a Hindu nobleman for 19,000 rupees. It was returned to Muslim worship 20 years later in exchange for four villages. Obviously, we had to remove our shoes before entering the mosque, but the floor tiles were burning my feet, so we didn't linger for too long. I was very tempted to go for a paddle in the ornamental pond!

    We then got back in the cyclo and returned to where we'd left our car. We went on the wrong side of the road, directly into oncoming traffic - hair-raising, to say the least! Zubair left me at this point to return home, and Ali drove me back to my hotel. I had enjoyed the tour, though it wasn't as long as I expected (just over two hours, rather than the four hours stated in the description).

    I didn't do much else for the rest of the day 😂.
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  • Food tour in Old Delhi

    29 marzo, India ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    I can't believe I'll be home three weeks today. This epic adventure is coming to an end. There's still lots to look forward to, though, not least the Intrepid Golden Triangle Tour I'm doing with Fiona 😄.

    For today, I had breakfast, which included poha (my favourite!), and then did some work ahead of my 12 noon pick-up for a food tour of Old Delhi. I had my fingers crossed that this would work out better than yesterday's 'tour' 😂.

    Old Delhi is the anarchic, charming, and unmissable heart of the city. Wandering through the tangled lanes is said to give you the sense of going backstage to where Delhi's real life takes place. We will be doing a walking tour here on the first day of our Intrepid trip, but I wanted to visit before then to get an idea of what it's like.

    Shah Jahan moved his capital here from Agra in 1648, the same year that work was completed on the Taj Mahal, his wife's mausoleum. He named the city Shahjahanabad and built the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, while his daughter Jahanara Begum designed Chandni Chowk. The half-moon-shaped walled city had 14 gates, including Kashmiri Gate and Ajmeri Gate, which are still important city landmarks.

    At the appointed time, I was waiting in my hotel lobby for my guide, Zubair, and my driver, Ali. I was fascinated to see cars driving through my hotel past reception! I managed not to fall for the scam a dodgy tuk-tuk driver tried to do on me, and made it to the correct transport! We drove to Old Delhi, where Zubair and I transferred to a cycle rickshaw, as no motorised transport is allowed in the Chandni Chowk area. I felt very sorry for the driver who had to pedal hard to keep us moving through the traffic.

    Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi's main drag, is lined by Jain, Hindu, and Sikh temples, plus a church, and bookended by the Red Fort and Fatehpuri Masjid. In Mughal times, the street was tree-lined and elegant. Now, it is chaotic with numerous tiny bazaars leading off it.

    We got on and off the cyclo as we went from one food stop to the next. The first was to try jalebi at a shop that's been open since 1884! Jalebi is a common sweet snack made from deep-fried batter soaked in sugar syrup. It is ridiculously sweet and not something I should be eating. I had a small taste to be polite. I'm afraid the rest went in the bin!

    Our next stop was to have aloo paratha and chole bhature upstairs in a tiny restaurant tucked away down a back alley. Both were delicious, although one of the side curries was far too spicy for me! There was just too much food for one person. I did my best, but I had to leave some on the plate.

    We then crossed the road to have kulfi, Indian ice cream flavoured with vanilla, saffron, and almonds, and served on a long stick. It was just what I needed to cool me down after the spicy curry!

    The next tasting was golgappa, a popular North Indian street food snack made with crisp hollow puris filled with spiced potatoes, chickpeas and tangy mint-flavoured water. It is especially famous in Delhi. The spicy, tangy pani, along with sweet tamarind chutney, gives golgappa its signature burst of flavour in every bite. Zubair told me he doesn't usually offer his clients this, as the mint water can be a bit dodgy for people who are new to India. He was happy for me to try it, though, as I have been here for months! So, I tried it. It was delicious, and no, I didn't suffer any bad effects from it!

    We then went for a masala chai. It's never been my favourite, and this one was particularly sweet and sickly. I would have much preferred a black coffee!
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  • Markets and lunch

    28 marzo, India ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    From Jantar Mantar, I walked down the road to Janpath Market. I'm not sure that I found the main market, but I certainly found some interesting local stalls, including one selling Punjabi outfits. I got talking to the owner, who insisted on having a selfie with me 😄. Everyone in the market was very friendly without being pushy. Outside, however, it was a different story. I was constantly hassled for the first time since arriving in India 5 months ago! When polite, friendly but firm responses didn't dissuade them, I just had to be rude! 😂

    My plan to visit Central Park was thwarted because it was closed for lunch, so I headed back towards Connaught Place. I will return to the area another day. On my way back to my hotel, I stopped at a little cafe and had a delicious masala dosa and a black coffee. The total bill was less than £1!

    The area around my hotel is full of local shops and stalls, so I bought some fruit (including a variety of musk melon I hadn't seen before) and some Diet Cokes before going back to my room to work and watch some TV. I was feeling knackered after the tribulations of yesterday and today, and the fact that it was 35 degrees outside today!
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  • Jantar Mantar

    28 marzo, India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    A few minutes later, we arrived at Jantar Mantar. This time, Pau got out with me, and his mate drove off, obviously having arranged to pick us up later. We crossed the road and Pau asked me if I wanted to go in. I said, 'Of course, entrance is included in what I paid for the tour.' Again, Pau was surprised. He wanted proof, so I showed him all the details of the tour I'd booked and he took screen shots to show his boss. He still wasn't going to pay for my ticket, and said he would wait for me outside. At this point, I'd had enough. I told him I would continue by myself. I firmly refused his request for a tip. What a cheek!

    Once he'd left, I calmed myself down, bought my ticket, and went to visit Jantar Mantar, one of five observatories built by Maharaja Jai Singh II, ruler of Jaipur. Built in 1725, Jantar Mantar is a well-maintained park containing a collection of curving geometric structures carefully calibrated to monitor the movement of the stars and planets. The eccentric shapes include the Samrat Yantra, a giant sundial, the Misra Yantra, an upside-down heart which is a world-time clock, and the Ram Yantra, circular buildings with rows of windows to observe the positions of celestial bodies. I didn't fully understand what I was looking at, but it was a calm and peaceful place to spend an hour - just what I needed after the morning I'd had.
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  • The walking tour that wasn't 😃

    28 marzo, India ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I had booked a walking tour of Connaught Place, New Delhi, and some local markets this morning, so I got up fairly early and went for breakfast on the roof (it's included in the room rate). I passed on the curries and the pasta and chose to have boiled eggs, toast, fruit, and coffee to set me up for the day.

    The British moved their capital to New Delhi from Calcutta in 1911. They set about building grand imperial buildings and spacious boulevards. Architect Edwin Lutyens was behind much of the design. The landmark Connaught Place was fashioned after the Palladian colonnades of Bath in England. When the British were thrown out in 1948, New Delhi remained the seat of national power, as it is today.

    The starting point for the tour was a twenty-minute walk from my hotel, so I set off in plenty of time to get there for the 9.40am start time. On the way, I found a chemist and bought some repellent to replace the one that was confiscated yesterday. Then, I started getting messages asking where I was and why I was late. It was 9.15! I messaged back to say I was on my way, but it didn't feel like a good start to the tour. My feelings were correct!

    When I got to the meeting point, I was greeted by my guide and tuk-tuk driver, Pau, and another guy. We all got in the tuk-tuk and did a circle around Connaught Place. There was very little explanation about what I was seeing. We stopped to see Agrasen Ki Baoli, a 14th century stepwell built to solve the problem of low water levels in Delhi's plain. Pau's mate, who came with me, couldn't answer any of my questions, so I did my own research later. This baoli was once in the countryside until the city grew up around it. There are 103 steps to the bottom, flanked by arched niches. Delhi one had over 100 baolis. Only 30 survive today.

    Back in the tuk-tuk, we drove to Central Park and straight past it, despite the fact that a walk around it was on the itinerary. We drove to Jhandewalan Hanuman Temple. Pau wasn't going to stop, but I asked him to and I went inside. The temple is famous for its 34-metre-tall Hanuman statue. You enter through a demon's mouth into a fake cave filled with tacky deities and gurus wanting to bless you for payment. I had the obligatory blessing and cord tied around my wrist, took some photos, and left. 

    We drove on to a textile emporium, where I was subjected to the usual hard sell. I was really angry by this point. When I escaped, I confronted Pau and told him that this is not what I'd booked. I had booked a guided walking tour from Connaught Place. It was sold as 'a heritage walk with local markets'. So far, it had been none of those things. Pau seemed surprised by what I was telling him. I said I still needed to see Jantar Mantar and Janpath Market, both places on the itinerary that I wanted to visit. He said, 'OK, we'll drive to Jantar Mantar and then we'll walk.'
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  • Arriving at the Grand Uddhav

    27 marzo, India ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    It quickly became apparent that the driver had no idea where it was, despite saying otherwise! However, for once, my wifi was working, so I used Maps to direct him 😄. At least, when I eventually got there, my hotel was nice, and my room was comfortable. I didn't fancy going out again, so I went to the rooftop restaurant for a bite to eat. It wasn't the best, but it was OK. I'm happy to be here for the next eight nights.Leggi altro