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Solo Trip to India and Nepal
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  • Happy Days Travel

Solo Trip to India and Nepal

This is my first solo overseas trip since Mark died earlier this year. I'm excited to return to India and to explore Nepal for the first time, but it will be strange not to have Mark with me to share the experience with. Читать далее
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  • Начало поездки
    3 декабря 2025 г.
    Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    The first solo adventure begins!

    3 декабря 2025 г., Англия ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    I didn't sleep very well ahead of embarking on my first overseas trip without Mark. I probably got about 4 hours, and was wide awake long before my 6am alarm. I guess it was a mixture of nerves and excitement. Not that I felt particularly worried. I was just concerned that I could successfully complete all the pre-departure tasks that Mark always did before we left on a lengthy trip - turning off the water and electricity, putting antifreeze in the toilet, locking up correctly, emptying the bin, etc., etc. 😊

    In the event, I did everything in good time and was at the bus stop at 7.09am to catch the 7.15 service to Skegvegas, only to find out that it was delayed by 16 minutes! Luckily, I'd left myself plenty of time. As I waited in the dark, cold, foggy morning, I consoled myself that I was heading for warmer climes 😀.

    I struggled getting my hold luggage on and off the bus. When I packed it one day last week, I was very proud of the fact that it only weighed 12.1kg. Between then and now, however, I have filled it with books (I still prefer the real thing to my Kindle), and it now weighs a little over 20kg 😂. I'll have to make sure I read everything in my first few weeks in India, so that, by the time I start travelling around, I'm back down to 12!

    Despite my bus being late, I still had time to have a Spoons breakfast in Skegness before my train. It became something of a tradition for Mark and I when setting off on our next adventure. It feels right to continue the habit. I wasn't tempted to have a pint of cider with it, though! 😂

    The sky lightened and the sun came out as the train wended its way south. By the time we reached Grantham, where I had to make my first change, it was glorious 🌞. Still too cold for me, though 😀. The rest of the journey to Kings Cross and then onto Gatwick via Thameslink from St Pancras International passed without incident. I checked into the Premier Inn, had a meal, and got an early night to try and catch up on some sleep I'd missed.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    London to Mumbai

    4 декабря 2025 г., Англия ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Between booking this trip and now, my flights were changed a couple of times, meaning that I'm now flying from Heathrow rather than Gatwick. This meant an earlier start than I had anticipated this morning, after another largely sleepless night! 

    I had my pre-paid breakfast and was on the National Express bus to Heathrow by 7.45am. We got caught in the inevitable rush-hour traffic on the M25, made worse by an accident caused by torrential rain, but we still arrived in plenty of time. I had already checked in online for my flight, so it was just a matter of dropping off my bag and clearing security. My carry-on bag attracted the attention of the customs guys, who confiscated my bag strap because it had metal inside it, and they felt it could be used as a weapon! That's a new one - it's the same strap we took to Africa and South America! They did suggest that I could go back and check my bag in, but I politely refused 😊.

    Once I was airside, I spent the waiting time reading and wandering around the airport, marvelling at the amount of Christmas shopping people seemed to be doing. How are they allowed to board their flights with 10 carrier bags? 😂

    My Air India flight was scheduled for 13.30. We boarded at around 12.45 and took off on time. It was a full flight. I had the window seat and was joined in my row by two ladies, both of whom were travelling solo. The cabin crew soon came round with drinks and nibbles, followed by a surprisingly good lunch! It was spicy chickpea and potato salad with mint and coriander, even spicier chicken curry with rice and beans, and chocolate and raspberry mousse for dessert. Afterwards, I watched Nomadland, which I don't think I'd seen before, and then tried to get some sleep. I failed miserably! I've never been able to sleep on planes 😊.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Arriving in Goa

    5 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The crew served us another light meal at about 1.30am India time (GMT +5.5). The captain came on to tell us that we had made good time and would be over Mumbai by 3.0am. However, the airport wouldn't open until 4.0am, so we would have to circle at a lower altitude for an hour or so. When the time came, we seemed to plummet from 37,000 feet to 17,500 feet in no time at all! We then descended again to 9,500 feet, where we remained until we were allowed to land at around 4.10am. It played havoc with my ears! I was in quite a lot of pain by the time we were on the ground!

    It was still dark when we landed, so there was nothing to see. Despite this, my neighbour insisted on leaning across constantly to take photos of the blackness!

    I had to self-transfer in Mumbai, meaning that I had to enter the country, reclaim my bag, and then check in again for my flight to Goa and pass through security again. It was chaos! Luckily, I had three hours between flights. Once I had jumped through all the hoops, I was very hot and bothered, so I was grateful for the opportunity to sit at the gate with a coffee while I chatted to a lady who teaches art at a higher education unit in Goa. She gave me lots of useful tips of things to do and places to go.

    The flight to the new airport in north Goa only took 45 minutes, but the crew still served a light meal! I was sitting in the middle seat on the back row of the plane and got my roasted vegetable sandwich thrown at me literally as the wheels touched down on the runway! I put it in my bag for later 😂.

    At Mopa airport, there was no security as we had come off an internal flight, so it was simply a matter of reclaiming my bag and going to find a taxi. This proved to be really easy, and I was soon on my way. I was revelling in the lovely warm sunshine, but I was really too tired to take much in.

    After a 30-minute drive, I was dropped off at Maya Nature Retreat, home for the next seven weeks. First impressions were good. I was warmly welcomed by Shreetle, the owner's mum. My room wasn't ready, so I waited in reception with an iced coffee and a masala omelette with cheese. Both were delicious!

    When my room was ready, there were a couple of minor things wrong, but overall, I was happy, and I was too tired to worry about it anyway! 😂 I shot a quick video and went to bed! 

    I slept for about 4 hours and then got up and unpacked. I can certainly make the space work for the next few weeks. I then went for dinner in the on-site cafe. I had chicken curry with a roti and the best jeera rice I've ever eaten. There was enough to feed a family, so the waiter offered to box it up for me. That's tomorrow's dinner sorted out! After dinner, I chatted to Niha, the resident artist, and her partner, who plays music here every Saturday.

    I took the second video in the restaurant. It has a lovely atmosphere.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Exploring Mandrem Beach

    6 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    I had a terrible night. My body clock is all over the place! I was awake for several hours between about midnight and 5am. I read an entire book! Then, I must have fallen asleep because the next thing I knew, it was 11.30am!! I got up, had a shower, and went for breakfast. Nobody batted an eyelid that I was so late. They don't start serving until 10am, anyway 😊. I had the same omelette as yesterday - this could definitely become a habit!

    After breakfast, I sat chatting to Niha for an hour or two and then set off to walk to Mandrem beach, the nearest stretch of sand to here. It took about 50 minutes, but there was so much to look at on the way that it didn't seem that long. I noted a couple of small shops to call at on the way back. As I got nearer to the beach, I saw many more white faces and a lot of signs in Russian. Clearly, there are large numbers of Russian tourists here.

    I reached the beach by crossing a bridge over an attractive lagoon. The beach itself was soft white sand, and a paddle in the Arabian Sea confirmed that it was clear and warm. It was also full of shells, which I discovered were inhabited by interesting little sea creatures 😊.

    It was a bit late in the day to make use of one of the many sunbeds laid out at the back of the beach, but I did stop for a drink in the first shack I came to. Suitably refreshed, I walked back, calling at a couple of the shops to by essentials en route.

    Back at Maya, I went for a shower, had my leftovers for dinner, and then went to the bar to check out the entertainment. There was music and some craft stalls. I spent some time talking to the makers, but I wasn't in the market to buy anything. I only stayed for about an hour. The singer had a good voice, but his repertoire was definitely made up of 'songs to slit your wrists by'! 😂    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    A work day

    7 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I had a slightly better night and woke up by 8.30am. I had intended to go for an early swim, but I just wasn't feeling it, so I pottered about until 10 when I went for breakfast. Shreetle saw me coming and had already ordered me a masala omelette with cheese and was making me an iced coffee. I guess it has already become my daily breakfast - it's a good job I like it! 😂

    BBC News this morning reported a fire in a nightclub just a few miles south of where I am. It happened at around midnight last night and left 25 people dead. Nobody here had heard about it, but when I went to the shop after breakfast, it was all the locals were talking about. They are blaming the lack of proper health and safety laws.

    When I got back from the shop, I asked if I could put a hard chair in my room to make it easier to work on my laptop. I spent the rest of the day writing and posting. I ate the last of my leftover rice, a cup-a-soup, and three small bananas for dinner. I don't need to eat out every day 😂. In between, I caught up with last night's Strictly and Friday night's Graham Norton Show.

    The only photo I took today was of the famous masala omelette with cheese! 😂    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    A couple of quiet days

    9 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Yesterday, I woke up after another bad night. I don't know what is keeping me awake until the wee small hours - it's really frustrating! I must have got to sleep at about 5am and woke up again in time to go to breakfast at 10! I had my usual 😂.

    I spent most of the day in my room working. I was quite pleased with what I got done.

    I ate in the on-site café last night. I had chicken schnitzel and a green salad. It was OK, but I wouldn't order it again. The only green thing in the green salad was about half a cucumber sliced up. I hate cucumber 😂.

    I set the alarm for 8 this morning. I didn't have anywhere to go, but I thought it would get me into a better sleep pattern. After another very broken night, I forced myself to get up with the alarm, and I went for a long walk before breakfast. Hopefully, this will mean I am tired later and will sleep better tonight! 🤞

    I planned another work day today, but I couldn't get the internet to work on my laptop, so I achieved very little. It was working on my phone, though, so I spent some time doing my laundry while listening to Radio 2. Later, I booked a trip to Old Goa for a few days next week - something to look forward to 😊.

    There is a Chinese chef here at Maya, so tonight I ordered his classic fried rice with chicken. It was delicious - just how Mark used to make it 😊.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Enjoying the beach

    10 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Well, something I did yesterday worked because I had the first good night's sleep since I arrived here! 

    After breakfast, I walked to Mandrem Beach for a day on a sunbed. The colours here are just so vibrant, from a yellow scooter parked against a dazzling white wall to a vivid orange and yellow temple.

    The tide was in when I arrived at the beach and remained that way all day. I went for several dips in the lovely waters of the Arabian Sea. In between, I relaxed with my book and chatted to several of the ladies who were selling their wares to tourists. They were all bemoaning the lack of British visitors this season and the influx of Russians, who they said are very rude and never buy anything! It might just have been a sales ploy to make me feel sorry for them. If it was, it worked! I bought two bracelets and a pair of trousers that I didn't want or need!

    Later, I ate at the Mandrem Beach Shack. I had a very good chicken kebab with chips and salad. I then bought a whole pineapple, which the lady cut up for me to take back to Maya.

    Back at the retreat, Niha was painting the props for this weekend's carnival-themed night, so I chatted to her for a while before going for a swim in the on-site pool. The water was a tad chilly! I ended up looking after a six-year-old as the water was too deep for him, and his Dad was too much of a wuss to brave the water! 😂    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Monkey Business 😀

    11 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Well, yesterday was clearly an exception. I had another restless night, despite the fact that I walked 22,000 steps yesterday and did a lot of swimming!

    I spent today working. My concentration was broken only when a monkey ran across my roof and had his lunch in the tree in front of my cabin! I learned that he was a Hanuman langur, one of seven species of langur spread across Asia. They are named after the Hindu god, Hanuman, the deity of healing and worship, who is often depicted as part-man, part-monkey. They are also known as grey langurs, and are notable for their very long tails. They are leaf-eaters. That's why he was up my tree 😀.

    Apart from my usual breakfast, I catered for myself today. I had accumulated a few bits and pieces - not least a delicious pineapple! 😊    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    A trip to Mapusa market

    12 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I slept through the night, which was a blessing! I had set the alarm for 7am as I was catching a bus to Mapusa this morning. I made myself a coffee and left at 7.45 to walk the 20 minutes to where Google Maps said the bus was due to leave from at 8.15. I had asked in the hotel, but nobody had any experience of using public buses, so they couldn't tell me if Maps was right or wrong. It turns out that it was wrong!! When I got to where Maps said the bus stop was, I asked a guy if I was in the right place. He told me that no buses went from there. I needed to be an hour's walk in the opposite direction!

    As I was pondering what to do, the guy flagged down his friend who was driving past on a scooter and asked him to take me to the bus stop. I had a split second to make a decision. I have not been on a motorbike since I crashed my scooter in Paris when I was 16. I swore I never would. Mark and I lived in Vietnam for three years, where scooters were the main mode of transport, and I kept my promise - I never went on a bike! Today, I did! I was terrified, but I did it anyway! The guy got me to the bus stop in Mandrem just as the bus was arriving. He wouldn't take a penny from me. He simply waved me on my way. This is why I love travel so much! I am constantly challenging myself, and I am constantly blown away by the kindness of the people you meet along the way 😊.

    The bus was, as expected, rammed, so I stood for all of the hour's journey to Mapusa. It was a bumpy journey, but there was no danger of falling over - we were too crammed in for that 😂. Some passengers were managing to sleep standing up!

    When we arrived in Mapusa, I was immediately in the middle of a wonderful, noisy, busy, colourful, chaotic Indian city. I loved it! My only reason for going there was to visit the biggest market in Goa. It's open every day of the week, but Fridays are the busiest because that's when everyone from villages from miles around comes into town to sell their produce and stock up with what they need for the week.

    The market wasn't difficult to find - the stalls spilled out into all the neighbouring streets. I didn't need to buy much. I just wandered around soaking up the atmosphere and chatting to people. Every other white face in the crowd belonged to a Russian tourist, or so it seemed. I had to keep telling people I wasn't Russian! Even a Russian woman asked me something and didn't seem to believe me when I said I didn't understand! 

    I was at the market nice and early, so I was able to take some photos before it got too manically busy. I then went to try to get an Indian SIM card for Mark's phone. This proved too problematic for the guy in the shop. He had never done one for a foreigner before and didn't know how, but he was determined not to give up! I was in there for an hour while he kept getting timed out of the website. He spoiled four SIM cards without getting me connected. In the end, he had to admit defeat! I'll try again another day 😊.

    After that, I explored more of the market before finding a local cafe, where I enjoyed Puri Bhaji and a coffee for breakfast, for the princely sum of 70 rupees (about 52p). I then went to track down a bus to get back to Mandrem. Of course, it was busy, and I stood for most of the way, but it is so worth it - 25 rupees, as opposed to 1400 rupees for a taxi!

    Back at Maya, I chatted to Neha before going for a cooling swim. For dinner, I had some delicious savoury pastries followed by yoghurt and bananas. I bought everything in the market.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Carnival night at Maya Nature Retreat

    13 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    I was up early, supposedly to get a smoothie delivery from a local company that reached out after seeing one of my posts. However, it didn't arrive! I messaged them, and they apologised and assured me that they would still deliver. So, I got on with my day and had my usual breakfast in the cafe. I did some washing and sorted things out for my trip to the state capital, Panjim, tomorrow. I was intending to go on the bus, but I have blistered my foot so badly that I won't be able to walk the 40 minutes to the bus stop, or indeed, walk around when I get to the city. So, I've decided to splash out on a taxi tomorrow afternoon to take me the whole way. Then, hopefully, by Monday, my foot will have healed sufficiently for me to get around.

    My smoothie delivery arrived late morning, along with an extra millet thali to make up for the inconvenience. The smoothie was good, but I can't say I was enamoured of the millet!

    I spent the rest of the day doing some writing and catching up on posts.

    This evening, I went to the carnival event on site. There were some interesting stalls selling handmade crafts and some good music. I really enjoyed my plate of Papri Chaat made by Sheetal. Neha gifted me one of her original works of art as thanks for me giving her a couple of books I'd finished with. It was a lovely evening.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Drive to Old Goa

    14 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    I slept better last night, which was a bonus. 

    After breakfast, I hobbled down the road in search of small bin bags for my room. Nobody had any. I do see signs everywhere saying that they discourage the use of single-use plastic. I wholeheartedly support this - BUT I see plastic everywhere! I don't know where people are getting it from - it's probably an 'under-the-counter' purchase for people who are in the know 😂. I was hoping to be able to buy biodegradable bags, but no such luck. I'll try when I get to the big city.

    I spent the rest of the morning catching up with last night's Strictly semi-final and a couple of other TV shows.

    My taxi arrived at 2.30pm to take me to Old Goa. The journey took about an hour and ten minutes and cost 1800 rupees (about £15). My driver, Omish, was very friendly. He insisted that I choose the music we listened to on the way, so he got an hour of The Beautiful South 😂. When we arrived at my homestay, we arranged that he will pick me up on Thursday morning to take me back to Mandrem via The Museum of Goa. 

    My room in the homestay wasn't ready, despite the fact that I arrived at the time I said I would, but it wasn't an issue. After about half an hour, the owner, Shiva, and his Russian helper, Natalia, came to check me in and show me to my room. It's more than adequate for my four-night stay.

    After settling in, I went out to get some dinner. It seems that most of the restaurants here close in the afternoon, so I struggled to find somewhere that was serving at just gone 5. I didn't want to wait, though. One, I was hungry, and two, I didn't want to be out after dark. Eventually, I found somewhere that was open. I had a delicious (if rather hot!) chicken thali washed down with the saltiest lime soda I've ever tasted! It was like drinking a glass of seawater! 😂 Obviously, I miss Mark all the time, but eating out is one of the hardest times, not just because I miss his company, but also because he used to try everything and tell me if it would be too spicy for me. Now, I'm just ordering in the dark - and tonight's dinner was definitely too spicy!! 😂🤣    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Walking tour of Old Goa

    15 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I slept pretty well, despite quite a lot of noise from the street outside.

    I got up at just after 8 as I had booked a walking  tour of Old Goa this morning. I made myself a coffee and strapped my foot quite tightly. It actually felt OK as I set out.

    It was a 15-minute walk to the starting point of the walk - The Viceroy's Arch - along busy streets and past the Gandhi Memorial roundabout. I attracted quite a bit of attention, with people wanting to talk to me and take my photo. They were all very friendly. Yashasvi, my guide, told me later that, although there are Western tourists here, they tend to just arrive at the monuments by coach or taxi. They don't just walk down the streets! Even at the monuments, I was asked numerous times for a photo. Yashasvi told me that many of the local tourists are from remote rural locations and have never seen a white face before!

    At the start of the tour, Yashasvi explained all about the Portuguese colonisation of Goa. The Viceroy's Arch was built in 1599 by Governor Francisco da Gama to mark the Portuguese conquest of the city by his great grandfather, Vasco da Gama who 'discovered' it 100 years previously. One side of the arch, which was completely restored in 1954, has a stone statue of Vasco himself, and the other side has one of St. Catherine. The position of viceroy remained in place from 1599 to 1961 when Goa finally gained its independence from the Portuguese. 

    From the arch, we walked down to the Mandovi river, where regular ferries go back and forth to Divar Island.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Our walk continues

    15 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We then retraced our steps to look at the Gate of the Palace of Adil Shah. Originally, this was a magnificent building that became the residence of the Portuguese governors until 1695. From then, until it was demolished in 1820, it was used by them for festive occasions. 

    All that remains of the palace today is the outer gate, which is made of basalt and decorated with Hindu religious imagery. 

    Our next stop was at the beautiful Church of St Cajetan, designed by an Italian architect and built by local artisans in the second half of the 17th century. The church was modelled on St Peter's Basilica in Rome. The large dome on the roof was the first of its kind built in India. 

    Inside, the church has seven altars, three down each side, and the main one, which is dedicated to Our Lady of Divine Providence. These altars are all intricately carved and gilded in a baroque style.

    Yashivsa took the amazing photo of the dome from inside the church using a timer and some camera trickery. I'm clueless about how she did it 😂.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    More walkers join us

    15 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Our next stop was at Se Cathedral, the largest church among the group in Old Goa, and when it was built in the first quarter of the 17th century, the largest in the whole of Asia. Just as Yashasvi was starting to explain about the cathedral, she was interrupted by a couple asking if they could join us. They had tried unsuccessfully to book a tour of their own. So, after a quick call to her boss, Yashasvi allowed Hiren and Akal, an Indian couple, now living in New Jersey with a daughter living in Preston, to join us. They proved to be good company. 

    The entire structure of the cathedral was built on a raised plinth made of laterite, a local hard stone. Architecturally, the exterior of the building is Tuscan and the interior Corinthian. The church today looks rather odd because the tower on the right-hand side as you look from the front collapsed when it was struck by lightning. It has never been replaced. 

    The main altar in the church is dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria. The richly gilded panel depicts her martydom.

    Outside the cathedral, I was surprised to see the first transgender toilets I think I've seen anywhere! I was also struck by a modern sculpture installed around the well in the grounds, which depicts a prostitute weighed down with the faces of all the men who'd abused her on the back of her dress. She is talking to Jesus, who tells her that if she drinks the water from the well, she will be absolved of all her sins! I don't know what happens to the men!

    Adjoining the cathedral is a convent, now housing the Archaeological Museum of Old Goa and the Church of St Francis of Assisi. This church was built in 1661 of laterite blocks, which were then lime plastered. All of the churches in Old Goa were painted white after construction as a sign of purity. 

    Inside, there is a highly decorative baroque altar with a large statue of St Francis of Assisi hugging Jesus on his cross. Sadly, no photos were allowed inside.

    Next, we visited St Catherine's Chapel, striking because of the shaft of sunlight illuminating the interior. Outside, there was an impressive stepwell. Hiren told me I will see much more elaborate ones when I get to Rajasthan.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Our walk ends

    15 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Our last stop on our heritage walk was at the Basilica of Bom Jesus. Construction began in 1594 and was completed in 1605. This Jesuit church is simple in style and has had its white exterior paint removed to reveal the original stonework. The church purportedly holds the perfectly preserved body of St Francis Xavier and thousands of pilgrims flock here every year to see him. The body is displayed in a silver casket with glass sides and top. This is now raised high above the heads of the pilgrims as apparently it was getting damaged by all of the touching and kissing!

    No photos are allowed inside the church. 

    Outside, a family insisted on having their photo taken with me. The kid doesn't look too impressed! 😂

    We then found a place to sit so that Yashasvi could finish her fascinating story of the history of Goa. She was an excellent guide and very passionate about her subject. 

    I then said my farewells. Yashasvi was going back to the starting point with the other couple to fill them in on what they had missed before they joined us. I asked Yashasvi for a restaurant recommendation for a late lunch. She suggested Adlem Goi which proved to be very good, if a bit more expensive than I have got used to. I had a delicious kingfish curry, but I resisted the temptation to ring the bell when I left 😂.

    Later, I returned to my homestay and asked Shiva to organise a taxi to take me to Panjari tomorrow.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник
    1

    A walk in Panaji

    16 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I set the alarm for 7.30am so that I could have a shower and sort myself out before my 9am taxi pickup to Panaji. I have hot water here, which is a bit of a luxury. At Maya, there is only cold water. Even when the weather is boiling hot, I'm still not keen on cold showers! 😂.

    My taxi arrived on time, but the driver didn't seem to know where he was taking me, and didn't speak enough English to tell me how much it would be! We sorted out my destination in the end and set off for the 15-minute drive. When we arrived, he suddenly knew how to speak English and demanded 800 rupees, not a fortune, but extortionate by Indian standards! I argued, but he was adamant. I didn't have the right money and, surprise, surprise, he didn't have any change, so I ended up giving him 1000 rupees. I was not best pleased and told him not to bother coming to pick me up later! 😀

    I was too early for my heritage walk, so I found a coffee shop to sit and calm down for a while! I had some messages from Dimple, my Greeter in Mumbai. This is the female only company I learned about at WTM. They match up solo female travellers with female residents of the city they are visiting. Dimple will be my first experience of this service. She sounds very excitable in her messages!

    Panaji, formerly known as Panjim (and still referred to as that name by everyone I've spoken to), is the state capital of Goa and has a population of around 114,000.

    At the appointed time, I walked to Panjim's main post office to meet my guide, Divya. There were another 4 people joining us for the tour - a guy from Singapore, a lady from Bangalore, and a couple from Mumbai. We all introduced ourselves, and then Divya gave us an introduction to the history of the city.

    Our walk took us through Fontainhas, the Latin Quarter of the city with plenty of examples of Portuguese colonial architecture and brightly painted houses. It was all very picturesque. In many of the narrow streets, photography was banned. I found this rather puzzling until I saw the number of Indian tourists posing in front of people's front doors or open windows and completely blocking the roads. They were ignoring all the No Photography signs. I could see why the residents might be upset!    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro

    16 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    About half way through our walk, we stopped at the Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro, a gorgeous bakery with flowers and colourful tiles on the tables. It was the perfect photo opportunity for all the Grammers! We sat inside and tasted three different types of Christmas sweets. We tried Doce (pronounced dosh) made from chickpeas, Perad, a guava jelly, and Beninca, a layered 'cake' made of egg yolks. The predominant flavour of all of them was sugar - I wasn't fond of any of them! 😂

    Outside, I watched an artist pecilling some guidelines onto a cup so that he could sign write it by hand. By the time we came back past the café about an hour later, it was completely finished. Very impressive!

    Further along our walk, we came across a craftsman who was recaning a chair, a very highly skilled task. Even Divya was impressed. She said it is very much a dying art in Goa.    Читать далее

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    2

    The end of the walk and lunch 😊

    16 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Our final stop on our heritage walk was at the Balcao Café, where we had a drink (again, it was something very sugary so I only had a sip) and listened to Maxie Miranda, a local muscian who played the ukulele and sang Over the Rainbow, White Christmas, and Yesterday! He told us the story of how he met George Harrison in 1992 when he came to Goa. They played music together. I was impressed. Divya - not so much! She was born in 1998 and had never heard of the Beatles! 😂

    We then returned to our starting point and went our separate ways. I went with the lady from Bangalore to visit the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. It was very impressive from the outside but, sadly, it was closed so we couldn't go in.

    She headed back to her hotel, and I went to the  Kokum Curry restaurant for lunch. Divya had recommended it. I had a very good chicken thali. It was delicious, but I don't think the carbs on carbs on carbs are doing me much good!

    Afterwards, I took a taxi back to Old Goa for considerably less than I paid this morning! While I'd been out, giant Christmas inflatables had appeared on the balconies of the house next door 😂.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    A chilled day

    17 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I didn't have anything to get up for this morning, so obviously, I was wide awake at 6.30am! I made myself a coffee and pottered about before venturing out for a late breakfast. I had a cheese and mushroom omelette and an onion uttapam, a popular, healthy South Indian savoury pancake made from a fermented batter of rice and lentils, topped generously with finely chopped onions and coriander and served with a small portion of vegetable curry, washed down with two beakers of black coffee. I didn't need to eat again all day!

    I then wandered around the souvenir shops and stalls before finding a bench in a shady spot under a tree, where I spent the afternoon reading my book. Sometimes, it's just nice to do nothing 😊.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник
    3

    The Museum of Goa

    18 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I got up, showered, had black coffee and bananas for breakfast, and packed, ready for Umesh to pick me up at 10. He arrived a few minutes early, and we set off for the 30-minute drive to The Museum of Goa. Bizarrely, it is located in the middle of an industrial area. Umesh was as surprised as I was - he had never been there before.

    The Museum of Goa (MOG) is a museum of contemporary art. It was conceived in 2015 by Goan artist Dr. Subodh Kerkar, who transformed his existing studio into an art space with the expertise of renowned architect Dean D'Cruz. The lack of cultural spaces in Goa, particularly those dedicated to contemporary art, led Kerkar to envision an institution that would democratise art and make it accessible to a larger audience. 

    The first thing I did after entering the museum was to watch a film narrated by Dr. Kerkar. He explained his thinking behind setting up the space and described some of the pieces on display. He related a story his father told him when he was a child. He said that when you watch waves lapping on a beach, you see that most of them wet the sand that has already been wet by past waves. Then, every so often, a bigger wave hits the shore and wets some different sand. His message was that it is important that you wet new sand and also, that you witness new sand being wet. I love this sentiment!

    When I began to look around the museum, one of the first exhibits to catch my eye was Chillies by Subodh Kerkar himself. No other commodity imported to India has affected the lives of Indians as much as chillies have. Before the Portuguese brought chillies to Goa from South America sometime in the early 16th century, local cuisine was flavoured with pepper and other spices. Now, there is hardly an Indian dish that doesn't contain chillies.

    Here, the chilli sculptures are clad with Indian textiles to suggest the Indianisation of chillies. Today, India is the world's largest producer and consumer of chillies, with the average Indian eating 543 grams of dry chilli per year. India now produces around 2 million tonnes of chilli per year and even exports it to South America.

    Another striking piece by Subodh Kerkar is Goa's Ark, inspired by Goa's history. When the Portuguese colonised the area in the 16th century, they demolished Hindu temples and built churches to spread Christianity. In response, Hindus moved their religious icons in canoes to places like Ponda in South Goa, beyond Portuguese control. As a result, most temples are now located in and around Ponda.

    In the bible story of Noah's Ark, God saved mankind. In Goa, man saved God, inspiring the name Goa's Ark. Today, multiple religions coexist in harmony in Goa.    Читать далее

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    Exhibits in the Museum of Goa

    18 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    One of the most impressive pieces in the Museum of Goa is a 22-foot-tall model of Narakasur. In Goa, the making of Narakasur marks the coming of Divali. Groups of friends, families, and neighbours get together to build their versions. On the night before Divali, these towering figures take over the streets, their makers dancing and celebrating before setting them on fire. When the flames die out, Divali begins. Light wins over darkness, and a new cycle of hope dawns.

    For many Goan children, making a Narakasur is their first encounter with art. It is where they learn to sculpt, paint, and collaborate.

    Over time, Narakasur figures have evolved. Some now feature mechanical movements, pyrotechnics, and new creative forms. In North Goa, they often appear muscular, fierce, and monster-like, while in the south, they take on more human-looking, round-bellied forms. The Narakasur in the museum is a collaborative piece that brings these two perceptions together - combining the stance of the north with the body of the south.

    One of my favourite pieces in the museum is the Crochet Christmas Tree, an initiative by The Crochet Collective, Goa. Christmas and crochet arrived in Goa together, brought by the Portuguese. Over time, both have become part of Goan life. Christmas is a time for people to come together. In contrast, crochet has long been a solitary craft, done mainly by women working alone in silence and reflection. This project has brought 25 women together to plan, create, and support each other. Conversations began over colour and stitches, and slowly, a community formed. They shared stories, ideas, and laughter while creating something larger than any one of them could make alone.

    C S Kerkar (1924 - 2006), father of the founder of the Museum of Goa, was a renowned Goan artist, too. The majority of his works depict fishing and fish markets, which form a major part of Goa's cultural ethos. He once said that the state of Goa without fish is like the state of fish without water.

    The piece Pao by Pradeep Naik represents how important bread is to Goan life. Traditionally, Indians ate chapattis, flatbreads made with freshly kneaded yeastless dough. The Portuguese introduced the idea of bread made with yeast. Today, poders, bread sellers on bicycles, deliver freshly baked bread to every household in Goa twice a day. They announce their arrival with a distinctive horn sound. I'm getting used to that noise being what wakes me up each morning 😊.    Читать далее

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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalПутешественник

    More from the Museum of Goa

    18 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Another eye-catching exhibit is Matoli, the canopy held above Lord Ganesha that is created during Chawath, the festival of Ganesh Chaturthi. The making of it is a deeply collaborative act rooted in community, ecology, and respect for the land. It's filled with seasonal fruits, grains, vegetables, and forest plants. Preparation begins just a few days before the festival so that everything remains fresh.

    The example in the museum is a collaborative work made with dried and preserved edible, non-edible, and medicinal plants. It is the largest and longest-lasting Matoli ever created in India.

    Fhatiyo by Chaitali Morajkar reflects on the everyday presence of flowers in women's lives - not as elements of beauty or romance, but as part of habit, care, and expression. Flowers are offerings at a shrine, hair adornments, or gifts exchanged between neighbours. They start conversations and remind us of the beauty that exists in the ordinary.    Читать далее

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    Textiles at the Museum of Goa

    18 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Mhammai Zatra by Savia Viegas is a mixed media piece on khadi, a hand-spun, hand-woven fabric promoted by Gandhi and symbolising India’s self-reliance and resistance to British colonial rule. It has handmade lace, embroidery, and cloth patchwork, and celebrates how food brings people together across Goa's many zatras or pilgrimage festivals, from temple fairs to church feasts. In these gatherings, stalls overflow with sweets and snacks like Kaddio Boddo, finger-sized, deep-fried sticks of dough tossed in melted jaggery infused with ginger and sprinkled with sesame seeds. These foods cross boundaries of religion and identity. They are also the souvenirs from the festival - what the goddess eats, the people eat, too.Читать далее

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    Back to Maya

    18 декабря 2025 г., Индия ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The last work I want to highlight is Rooster by Subodh Kerkar. This 11-foot-tall rooster is made of fibreglass and covered in rubber tyres in the typical style of the Portuguese symbol, usually made in ceramic or wood, which is seen all over the streets of Goa. It comes from a Portuguese folktale, the Barcelos Rooster, about a pilgrim who was wrongly accused and sentenced to death. Before his execution, he said that a roasted rooster on the judge's dinner table would come back to life and crow three times if he were innocent. Just as he was about to die, the rooster crowed!

    Rooster is in the sculpture garden at the back of the museum. At first glance, you think the area is surrounded by some kind of flowering hedge, but on closer inspection, you realise that the whole thing is made of painted recycled plastic bottles, some cut into strips, and some left whole. The overall effect is stunning.

    I have visited many museums of contemporary art over the years in cities all over the world. Without doubt, the Museum of Goa is one of the best I have ever seen. What sets it apart is the fact that every exhibit is accompanied by a meaningful story. The tradition of Goan storytelling is perfectly portrayed here. It's fascinating, intriguing, and unforgettable.

    When I had finished my visit to the museum, I ventured into the on-site shop, where I bought several books about Goan life. I'm looking forward to reading them and filling in some of the many gaps in my knowledge.

    Umesh was waiting for me, and we drove back to Maya. He stopped on a busy road to let me take a photo of a huge statue of Christ. I need to get him to take me back to that area - I think there are other things to see.

    Once we arrived at Maya, I had my favourite omelette and an amazing fruit bowl, and then spent the evening editing photos.    Читать далее

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