Personal stories about slum life

My guide, Subhan, was born and raised in the slum, and still lives there with his parents and two younger sisters in a tiny space. He has little chance of escaping. To rent the smallest shared room would cost between 7000 and 8000 rupees a month (£56 - £64). Whilst this doesn't sound very much, the average wage in the slum is just 400 rupees a day (£3.20).

Subhan's insights about living in the slum were very revealing. As he led me through narrow, dark alleyways, which are hot, and where inhabitants never get to see daylight, I tried to imagine what it must be like to live in such conditions for a lifetime. I couldn't!

Dharavi was the setting for the blockbuster movie, Slumdog Millionaire. Knowing that I was coming here, I rewatched it the other night. Subhan pointed out some locations where filming took place. I asked him how they could film in such small spaces where so many people live and work. He explained that they were in and out very quickly, with Danny Boyle only shooting essential scenes in the slum itself - for authenticity. Subhan told me that Dharavi residents don't like the film, thinking that it only portrays the negative aspects of life in the slum. He said they are especially angry about the amount of violence and crime shown, believing that Dharavi is no more dangerous and has no more crime than anywhere else in the world. For the record, no local people benefited financially from the making of the movie. Any monies paid by the production company went directly to the state authorities and business owners, none of whom live in Dharavi.

The future of Dharavi is under threat with plans afoot to redevelop the entire area within the next few years. Subhan is worried about what will happen to him and his family and friends.

At the end of the tour, I called an Uber to take me back to Coloba, and Subhan disappeared back into the warren of alleys that make up the slum.

In Coloba, I went to Delhi Darbar for a meal. They are celebrated for having the best biryani in Mumbai. I ordered the mutton version. It was good, but not a patch on the one served at Mandrem Beach Shack 😂.

I was going to stay out for tge Republic Day celebrations at the Gateway of India, but I was knackered and had developed massive blisters on both heels, so I decided to go back to my hotel. I've got two tours booked for tomorrow, both of which involve a lot of walking. I hope I'll be able to do them! 🤞Læs mere