Cooking class with the Spice Girls

I got up and went for breakfast on the roof. I had Poha - I think it's my new favourite thing! After eating, I worked for a couple of hours (it's newsletter day), and then got ready for my class. The tuk-tuk was arranged for me as we'd discussed, so I was at the sisters' house by noon. I met their Mum and two more sisters (there are seven in total) before going upstairs to the teaching kitchen to have my one-to-one class with Usha. 

We made Paneer Butter Masala, Chapati, Paratha, Masala Chai, Biryani Rice, Daal Tadka, and the best Saffron lassi I have ever tasted. It was all delicious! During the cooking, I asked Usha about her family.

The sisters are proud to continue their father's legacy. When Mohanlal Verhomal started his business in the late 1970s, there were no other spice shops in Jodphur. His pioneering idea was to teach tourists about which spices to use to recreate their favourite Indian dishes at home. He and his wife developed their own spice blends, using the freshest and most authentic ingredients. His name soon became synonymous with Rajasthani spice, and he gained recognition from international journalists and from the Maharaja, who granted him permission to sell his spices at Mehrangarh Fort. Mohanlal became known as the 'King of Spices'.

Sadly, Mohanlal Verhomal died in 2004. He left behind a wife and seven daughters, the youngest of whom was only eight years of age. His brothers said they would take over the shop, seeing as he had no sons. Mohanlal's widow refused. She vowed to continue her husband's business and work to provide for her family. She has kept that promise to this day, and most of her daughters are now involved in the business in one way or another. 

Over the years, they have faced physical and emotional threats. Within days of their father's funeral, rival spice businesses had set up in Jodhpur market, using similar names to their father's. These men bribed people who had worked for Mohanlal into giving them his spice blend recipes. They copied them all, using lesser-quality raw ingredients. The problems for the girls, who have become known as The Spice Girls of Rajasthan, continue to this day. 

I re-visited the market shop after my class, so that I could buy some spices. As soon as I arrived, a guy selling vegetables opposite the shop started shouting about his wares, making it impossible for Priya and me to have a normal conversation. She told me that this happens all the time. He doesn't shout normally. He only does it when the girls have customers in the shop. They believe he is paid by their rival spice sellers. Also, while I was there, someone else pushed his vegetable cart in front of their shop, making it very difficult for potential customers to see and gain access to the shop. Priya said that the male-owned businesses on either side of them actively discourage people from patronising them. Local tour guides are paid handsomely to take tourists to other spice shops, rather than those belonging to the girls. How they deal with this situation every day is beyond me! I can only wish them all the best and hope that their business thrives in spite of the difficulties they face.

Afterwards, I certainly didn't need to eat again for the rest of the day, so I went to buy a few essentials, took my laundry to be done, and then spent the evening posting and watching TV.Read more