Parmarth Niketan Ashram

With 1500 rooms, this is the biggest ashram in Rishikesh and the site of the largest nightly Ganga Aarti, a ritual that pays homage to the sacred River Ganges. The ashram was founded in 1942 by Pujya Swami Shukdevanandji Maharaj (1901–1965). Since 1986, Pujya Swami Chidanand Saraswatiji Maharaj has been the President and Spiritual Head of Parmarth Niketan, but for the last 25 years, Sadhvi Bhagawati Saraswati, an American woman living and teaching at the ashram, has been its public face. She is a renowned spiritual leader and motivational speaker. She’s the author of the newly released #1 bestselling memoir, Hollywood to the Himalayas: A Journey of Healing and Transformation. Originally from Los Angeles, she is a graduate of Stanford University and has a PhD in psychology. eep spiritual practice.

The Ganga aarti happens at sunset and is attended by around a thousand visitors each day. The site was already pretty crowded when we arrived at 5.30pm, over an hour before the sun was due to set. People were jostling and stepping over each other to get a good spot. I chose to stand at the back out of the melee. Before the main event, the crowd was entertained by musicians and a singer who were all dressed in monks' robes, showing they belong to Parmarth Niketan.

At one point, the crowd all surged towards the steps in the middle of the arena. Word had gone round that Sadhviji herself was about to appear. She descended the steps surrounded by her closest disciples, standing out from them as they were all dressed in yellow robes, while hers were red. From the crowd's reaction, it is clear that people believe her to have some kind of divine power. I found it all a bit uncomfortable to watch.

During the ritual itself, she gave a speech, both in Hindi and in English, and young monks swung lit lamps. People sent leaf bowls filled with flower heads and lit candles down the Ganges in memory of their loved ones. Navin assured me that this was the most important part of the whole event. He said I should join in. He said I should make a circle in front of me with a large flame in memory of Mark. I don't think Mark would have thanked me 😂. I could see people becoming very emotional. Some appeared to be in a trance. I'm sure some people found solace in it. I'm happy that I experienced it, but I don't feel changed because of it. I certainly wasn't rushing to touch Sadhviji's robe afterwards, as many people, including my guide, were.

When it was all over, we crossed back over the Ganges and took a tuk-tuk back to the starting point of the tour. I said my goodbyes to Navin and walked back up the hill to my hotel, calling to pick up my laundry on the way. Once there, I checked my blood sugar again (6.6), ate some fruit, took a painkiller, redressed my wound, and went to bed. I had done just under 25,000 steps, my back was sore, my elbow was throbbing, and I was absolutely shattered 😊.Read more