Bhaktapur is the third of the valley's medieval city-states, after Kathmandu and Patan, with a history dating back to the 8th century. It's the one that best retains the timeless atmosphere of a traditional Newari town. The best thing about it is that there are far fewer tourists than in Kathmandu, so it is a pleasure to walk around and get clear views of the stunning religious architecture, as well as the quirky backstreets where artisans ply their trades as they have for hundreds of years.
We stopped to try some street food - delicious lentil and vegetable ring doughnuts that tasted similar to falafel, and hand-cooked crisps flavoured with masala spices. We saw traditional Newari dress, both on mannequins outside shops, and on people posing for photos in the squares.Read more