Around the UK in Bertha

We left Riverside this morning, heading for Harrogate. We broke our journey at Hardwick Hall, about halfway up. I visited on a school trip many, many moons ago. We thought we'd been in recent years, but when we got there, we realised we hadn't. It was definitely a first for Mark.

It was a grey, drizzly day, so we concentrated on the house and will return another day to explore the gardens and extensive grounds.

Hardwick Hall was the magnificent creation of Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, known by all as Bess of Hardwick. This formidable businesswoman and property owner, four times married and widowed, mother, stepmother, and founder of a great aristocratic dynasty, was unique in the male-dominated world of Elizabethan England. I remember learning about her as a child and being in awe of her achievements.

Bess built Hardwick Hall over seven years in the 1590s. She created the marvel of the age. Countless people came just to gaze at it. It is a magnificent mansion built of sandstone with more glass than had ever been seen in a building before, a testament to Bess's immense wealth and iron will. She ordered that her initials, E S, Elizabeth of Shrewsbury, be carved in stone and presented underneath her coronet on the top of each tower. These letters are the first thing most people notice when they visit the house today.

Remarkably, Hardwick has changed little since Bess built it. If she walked through the main entrance to the Great Hall today, she would undoubtedly recognise it. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit. The tapestries and other fabrics and embroideries are absolutely stunning. As usual, the volunteer room stewards employed by the National Trust are incredibly knowledgeable and eager to share their knowledge with visitors.Read more