• Happy Days Travel
  • Happy Days Travel

Solo Trip to India and Nepal

This is my first solo overseas trip since Mark died earlier this year. I'm excited to return to India and to explore Nepal for the first time, but it will be strange not to have Mark with me to share the experience with. Read more
  • A beach day

    December 19, 2025 in India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I didn't hang around for my 10am breakfast this morning as I wanted to walk to the beach before it got too hot. My foot is healed, thank goodness, so I was able to walk without pain. 

    I spent the whole day at the beach and had an omelette for breakfast and falafel for lunch. There was some commotion when a few Russian tourists realised they couldn't get alcohol from the beach shack today. There is a local election here tomorrow, so the sale of alcohol is banned for 48 hours. 

    Today was also Goan Independence Day to remember the day in 1961 when Goa finally gained its independence from Portugal. There didn't appear to be any events or celebrations. Umesh told me yesterday that they do mark the occasion in schools.

    A breeze got up on the beach this afternoon, so the lifeguard put the red flags out to advise people not to swim. As you might expect, his warnings fell on deaf ears!

    I picked up some bits on the way back to Maya as I'm planning a couple of work days. At the hotel, I chatted to Neha, who was working on some artwork for Monday's Christmas market. There is no Saturday event this week because of the election. I was raving to Neha about the Museum of Goa. She admitted that she's never been, despite the fact that it's less than an hour away. I think she might go now 😊.

    Christmas has arrived at Maya with a decorated tree out front in the shadow of a palm tree - lovely 😊.
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  • The rhythm of Goan life

    December 22, 2025 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I spent the weekend working in my accommodation. For once, I was happy with what I achieved 😊. Last night, I watched Love Actually, Mark's favourite film. We made a habit of watching it every Christmas, regardless of where we were in the world. I see no reason not to watch - even though I know every word of the script off by heart😂.

    Today, I had another beach day. I always see something new as I walk. This morning, it was a villa called Mark and a brightly coloured truck 😂. 

    At the beach, I spent a lot of time chatting to Jasmine. She is one of the ladies who sells clothes and jewellery to the tourists. She was horrified when I told her how much I'd paid for my stay at Maya. She and her husband manage a holiday apartment on behalf of the owner who lives in Delhi. If I come back next winter (and I'm seriously considering it!), I will stay there. It only costs USD200/month.

    I had egg-fried rice for lunch. I asked for 'medium spice', but it blew my head off! I won't do that again!
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  • Work and socialising

    December 23, 2025 in India ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I worked today. Then, this evening, there was a Christmas market at Maya. It replaced the usual Saturday night event, which was cancelled due to the election and businesses not being allowed to serve alcohol. Sadly, hardly anybody came. I spent the time chatting to Sheetal, Neha, and a few others. Neha has finished an artwork on some Japanese fabric I gave her. Now, my challenge is to stitch it using sashiko techniques. I'm looking forward to doing it, but really don't want to spoil her work.

    I made a start this evening.
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  • Christmas Eve at the beach

    December 24, 2025 in India ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I spent the day at the beach. I went a different way this morning and found a tourist street full of shops and restaurants. All of them had signs in Russian, and shopkeepers were surprised to discover that I was from the UK. I only have local shops near where I'm staying, so it was a novelty to find small supermarkets selling everything from tinned tuna to Cadbury's chocolate! Nothing was too overpriced, either, so I did treat myself to some cheese (Cheddar and feta) on the way home 😊.

    I also came across the rather fetching snowman! 😂

    On the beach, I stopped to watch the fishermen hauling in their nets by hand. It takes about 2 hours to get them in. I didn't wait to see what they'd caught!
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  • Christmas Day

    December 25, 2025 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    I decided to have another beach day. I posted on social media about how Mark and I had been on the salt flats in Bolivia this time last year (photo above), oblivious to what was facing us just around the corner. I got so many messages from friends all over the world in response. It really cheered me up on what was always going to be a difficult day.

    After spending all day at the beach (cheese and mushroom omelette for breakfast and tandoori chicken with chips and salad for dinner), listening to Radio 2 and reading my book, I walked back with my pineapple, blueberries, strawberries, and a mango cheesecake ready for a work/movie/nibbles day tomorrow 😂.

    Back at Maya, I had a long FaceTime call with Fiona and the girls. They were preparing Christmas dinner in the newly fitted kitchen. It all looked amazing! It almost felt like I was there with them 😊. Later, I watched Grease and got on with stitching Neha's design.
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  • Time flies!

    January 1 in India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I'm constantly surprised at how quickly the time is passing here. I can't believe I only have three weeks left until I leave for Mumbai.

    I have spent the past week mixing work days with beach days. I've achieved quite a lot with digital product creation and have relaxed in between, reading the local books I bought at the Museum of Goa and listening to the radio. I haven't ventured far. I've hardly taken any photos - unheard of for me! In the evenings, I've been working on stitching Neha's design. I'm pleased with the way it's coming on.

    On Saturday, it was Winter Wonderland here at Maya. The musician was very good. There was a drumming circle on Sunday, which I didn't attend. Last night, the family organised a private party to see in the New Year. I felt obliged to go, although I would rather have watched a film and had an early night! Mark and I never really did much for New Year 😊.

    So, now we're in to 2026, my first full year without Mark. I'm excited for what's coming up, but I'm sad that he isn't here to share it with me.
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  • A day at Mandrem Beach

    January 2 in India ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today was another relaxing day. When I arrived at the beach this morning, I noticed that the guy who looks after the car park was stitching. I went for a closer look. He doesn't speak much English, so I couldn't find out very much, other than the fact that he comes from Karnataka and he learned how to sew from his grandmother. His work was astonishing - so vibrant and colourful.

    I managed to get a photo and a short video of the guy who walks his cow on the beach every morning. I love this place 😊.
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  • A working weekend

    January 4 in India ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    I've spent the weekend at Maya working. I'm pleased with the progress I've made. I'm almost ready to launch a new digital product about how to monetise a stitching hobby. I hope it sells!

    Last night, there was another event here at the retreat. Again, it wasn't particularly well attended. I had finished stitching Neha's drawing, so I backed it and gifted it to her. I think she was pleased!Read more

  • Trip planning

    January 5 in India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I spent today at the beach - mainly planning my onward travels for after I leave here. I've finally given up on the textile tour of Gujarat. I've had to accept that it's not going to happen in February, although there's still a chance that it could run later in the year. So, instead, after Mumbai, I'll have a week in Udaipur, a few days in Jodhpur, and then travel on to Amritsar via Jaisalmer, Bikaner, and Bathinda.

    The food at the beach shack is still good, although I've no idea why my coffee was served in a half-pint beer tankard this morning 😂. For my meal today, I had a delicious Chicken Dopiaza with jeera rice.
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  • A trip to Anjuna market

    January 7 in India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After a work day yesterday, today I was doing the tourist thing. Umesh, my taxi driver, picked me up at 8.30am and we headed to the weekly market at Anjuna Beach. We arrived at about ten past nine. Initially, it appeared to be closed, but after asking someone, Umesh realised we were in the wrong place 😊.

    When we found the market, Umesh dropped ne off and I went for a wander. I didn't have very high expectations as people in Mandrem had told me it was a tourist trap and full of imported tat. I was pleasantly surprised to find out they were wrong! Yes, there was a lot of rubbish specifically aimed at tourists, but there were also a lot of hand crafted items, especially textiles. I was in my element talking to the ladies  who hand stitch bed covers and bags. Their use  of colour was an inspiration. I was only sorry that I couldn't buy anything much - seeing as I'm travelling around for the next few months. I will definitely put it on my list if I do come back next winter! I did buy a hand-stitched purse that I didn't really need, and some beautiful sari fabric strips that I don't know what I'm going to do with yet 😀.

    I had breakfast in a market cafe overlooking Anjuna Beach and was sorry I couldn't stay for the local Bob Marley tribute act who was performing later! On my way to meet up with Umesh, I was blessed by a holy man who tied an orange cord around my wrist. I'm not in any way a believer, and I hate orange, but I'm a bit superstitious about taking it off 😀.
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  • A visit to Fort Aguada Jail and Museum

    January 7 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We then drove to Aguada Fort, originally constructed by the Portuguese in 1612 to guard against the threat of Dutch invasion. Built at the mouth of the Mandovi River, It was the most prized and strategically important fort of the Portuguese occupation. It is so large that it envelops the entire peninsula at the southwestern tip of Bardez. 

    A freshwater spring within the fort provided fresh water to the ships that used to stop by. This is how the fort got its name: Aguada, meaning watery place in Portuguese. The fort has the capacity to store 2,376,000 gallons of water, one of the biggest freshwater storage tanks of the time in the whole of Asia. 

    Aguada Fort is divided into two segments: the upper part acted as a fort and watering station, while the lower part served as a safe berth for Portuguese ships. 

    I had booked a 12 noon walking tour of Fort Aguada Jail and Museum (the lower part) with Make it Happen - the same company I used in Panjim and Old Goa, so we went there first. I was the only customer today. My guide, Shiv, was knowledgeable, but his delivery was rather perfunctory. He did the minimum and was then off on his scooter, leaving me to explore the onsite museums by myself. It was OK, though - I still enjoyed my visit.

    During the Salazar Administration, the lower part of Fort Aguada was repurposed for use as a prison primarily for Salazar's political opponents. It remained the largest prison in Goa until it was decommissioned in 2015. 

    Since then, the structure has been renovated by the Goa Tourism Development Corporation along with the Goa Heritage Action Group and opened for tourists as a Freedom Struggle Museum, a tribute to the heroic deeds and sacrifices of all those who took part in Goa's Liberation from Portuguese rule and the Indians who opposed British rule and were jailed there. It was inaugurated on December 19, 2021 by PM Narendra Modi.  The museum has two particular cells dedicated to liberation fighters T B Cunha and Ram Manohar Lohia, who were imprisoned under the Portuguese regime. 

    The site also contains some of the original 80 British-made cannons used by the Portuguese to defend the fort, and several monuments to Goa's anti-colonial struggle. The original statues are not in a good state, having been subject to extreme weather over the years, so reproductions have been made. These stand alongside the originals.

    I was particularly interested in an informative display about Goan writers. I now have another list of books to acquire 😀.
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  • Aguada Upper Fort and Lighthouse

    January 7 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After a quick refreshment stop, Umesh drove me to the upper fort which has a moat, underground water storage chamber, gunpowder room, lighthouse, and bastions. It also has a secret escape passage to use during time of war and emergency. 

    The Aguada Fort Lighthouse, erected in 1864, is the oldest of its kind in Asia. It is located across the river from the peninsula encompassing Panaji and just south of Candolim beach. It was replaced by a new lighthouse in 1976 after serving for over a century.

    As I walked around the upper fort, I had similar experiences to when I was in Old Goa. I was probably the only western tourist amongst hundreds of Indians, so I was stopped several times to have selfies!
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  • Dolphin spotting 😀

    January 7 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    From the fort, we drove back down to the river, where I went on a dolphin-spotting boat trip out into the Arabian Sea. It was my first solo boat trip. Mark always loved going out on a boat, so it's something we always did. I wonder when these 'first' occasions will end 🙁.

    I enjoyed the trip, even though we only had one very brief glimpse of a dolphin! It was nice to see the fort from the sea, and the fishing boats sorting out their catches.
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  • Aguada Fort and St Anthony's Church

    January 7 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After the boat trip, Umesh dropped me off a few hundred metres down the coast to see more of the original walls of the lower fort. It gives you some idea of the vastness of the whole complex.

    On our way back to Mandrem, our last stop of the day was at St. Anthony's Church in Siolim. The Franciscans built the first church on the site in 1600. For safety reasons, it had to be demolished in 1900. The beautiful church we see now was completed in 1907. Sadly, I could only admire it from the outside. There was a service going on, and there was no way the security guard was going to let me in! I made do with taking photos of the exterior, the nativity displays, and the huge statue of Christ across the road. 

    Back in the car, I was telling Umesh about my struggles to get an Indian SIM card. He made a call to a friend who could help and arranged for us to meet him at 6.30pm. So, Umesh dropped me at Maya at 5.15 with a plan to pick me up again at 6. I needed to pick up my passport and some money, and just had time to order and eat a chicken fried rice 😊. I shared it with Neha.

    Umesh's friend was as good as his word and I now have three months unlimited data on Mark's phone. To show me it was working, the guy clicked on YouTube. It immediately came up with Your Song by Elton John. It must have been the last thing Mark watched on there 😊.

    When, I got back to Maya, Neha was still there, so I sat chatting to her until she went home.
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  • A beach day

    January 9 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    I spent yesterday working and have now launched my Stitch and Sell ebook and workbook. Fingers crossed people want to buy it!

    Today, I was at the beach. Jasmine and the other sellers are all bemoaning the fact that there are very few tourists around, and the ones who are here are Russians who don't spend any money!

    I had chicken biryani for dinner at the beach shack - it was the best I've ever had 😊. Walking home, I had to navigate the bull on a rope, as well as the usual traffic 😂. I love Indian life 😊
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  • Cyanotype printing workshop

    January 10 in India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today, I had booked a cyanotype printing class at an art studio, a 40-minute walk from here. I didn't want to arrive all sweaty, so I arranged for Umesh to take me. I was wishing I hadn't when he didn't turn up at the pre-arranged time, and didn't answer when I called him! I think he was asleep. When I called the second time, he answered. Luckily, he only lives down the road, so I wasn't too late!

    I had never heard of cyanotype printing, but it looked interesting on the studio's website, and so it proved to be. Cyanotype printing is a simple, photographic process, first done in 1842, creating striking Prussian blue prints, often called blueprints, by applying a light-sensitive chemical solution (ferric ammonium citrate & potassium ferricyanide) to paper or fabric, placing objects or negatives on it, exposing it to UV light (sunlight), and then washing it in water to reveal white lines/images against a deep blue background. It's camera-less, eco-friendly, and popular for photograms (images from objects) and botanical prints.

    The tutor, Aishwarya, was lovely. She gave clear instructions and was genuinely interested in the prints we produced. My fellow students were Abbey from Canada and her Indian husband. We spent a very pleasant three hours creating art with, in my case at least, zero artistic talent! It was fascinating to see our ideas come to life as our work developed in the sun. I'm keen to try the technique on cotton fabric. I can then embellish the designs with sashiko stitching.
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  • More photos of the workshop

    January 10 in India ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After the class, I set off to walk back to Maya. As I approached Umesh's house, he was standing outside. He was cross that I hadn't called him to pick me up (locals really don't walk around here!), and insisted that I come in to meet his wife and baby boy before he ran me home. I declined the crab and rice they were having for lunch, but was grateful for some delicious fresh watermelon slices.

    Back at Maya, I showered and watched a bit of TV before going to listen to Saahil sing and play the guitar. Following the low attendance at the last couple of Saturday night events, tonight was just live music - no stalls or other activities. It's a good job as it was just the family, Neha, and me! It made for a chilled evening.

    When it was over, I checked my phone and had a message from Manda, who I worked with in Vietnam many moons ago. She had seen that I was at Maya and told me that her friend who she plays in a band with in Albania, is playing here on Friday night! What a very small world we live in 😊
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  • Playing with soil and rocks 😊

    January 18 in India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I spent the past week alternating work days and beach days. It's been very pleasant. Maya is very quiet - I am the only guest! The scheduled Lohri (harvest festival) celebration on Tuesday and the live music events on Friday and last night were all cancelled due to lack of interest! 😊

    A planned visit by Sheetal's parents has also been cancelled. Sadly, her Dad fell down the stairs yesterday and broke his leg.

    The only excitement all week was when the police turned up to question the family about the unexplained death of a singer who performed here in November. She's been linked to a Russian guy who murdered two Russian women earlier this week by slitting their throats! Now in police custody, he has admitted to killing 10 women!

    Today, I had booked for Neha and I to do an all-day 'colours of earth' workshop at Mati Earth where I did the cyanotype printing last week. Despite living here for four years, and being an artist herself, Neha didn't know the place existed. She came to Maya at 9.45am so that we could have breakfast before Umesh drove us to Mati.

    We talked about the murders. Neha knows the perpetrator and one of the victims. She and Saahil had bern chatting to them a few hours before the incident! Chilling!!

    Once at Mati, we met our tutor, Aastha. There were nine of us doing the workshop and Aastha explained how the day would shape up. The aim was to learn how to extract natural pigments from soil and rock, and use them to make watercolour paints with which we would create art.

    We spent the morning session extracting the pigments and making the paints. The rocks had to be crushed to a powder first. Then the soils and powdered rocks had to be washed, rinsed, and allowed to settle. We had to separate the clay part from the sand and silt. We then dried the clay and crushed it again. The next step was to make a natural binder with gum arabic, boiling water, honey, and clove oil. We mixed this with the powder and then mulled it to create the paint. It was a fascinating process, and I was amazed at the range of colours we ended up with.

    After a delicious vegetarian lunch, we spent the afternoon painting. I'm definitely no artist, but I enjoyed the process. My 'artwork' was more of a doodle which sort of looked like a fabric patchwork. Neha, on the other hand, who is a very talented artist, produced a beautiful painting!

    It was lovely to see the variety of art made by the workshop participants.

    When the workshop was over, Neha and I walked home. On the way, we stopped to admire a mural which will soon be hidden from public view forever. At Maya, I sat chatting to Sheetal and Ikjot. They were ordering pizza for delivery, so I stayed and had some, too.

    During the evening, I got a call from Emily at Blandred Camping. After 2 interviews and rigorous background checks, I appear to have landed a summer job 😊.
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  • My last beach day

    January 19 in India ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Today was my last beach day, as I really need to spend the next few days working and organising myself to leave Maya and go on the road for three months.

    At the beach, I watched the fishermen bringing in their seine nets. They travel a huge distance along the beach as the nets get closer to the shore. The whole process takes hours rather than minutes. I didn't get to see what they actually caught.

     

    I had my usual breakfast and later, a chicken biryani for dinner. I didn't swim today as the sea was too rough. I spent my time reading and chatting to the friends I've made at the beach. It was sad to say goodbye. Finances permitting, I definitely want to come back next winter. To that end, I've arranged for Jasmine to send me the details of the flat she manages.

     

    I stayed at the beach to watch the sunset tonight. It was truly beautiful. I watched it with tears streaming down my face, caught in the moment and missing Mark 😊.

     

    I walked along Beach Street to buy a few bits to eat over the next three days, and I got a little outfit for Umesh's baby boy's first birthday. I'm not entirely happy with it, but it was the best I could find. 

     

    I took a taxi back to Maya. Sheetal and Ikjot were just ordering pizza and asked me to join them. I don't really understand, as there is a perfectly decent chef on site, but I had a margherita with them 😊.
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  • It's such a small world!! 😊

    January 20 in India ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Today was supposed to be a work day, but I spent most of it taking photos off my phone. It was getting too full for me to take any more! I know I could just delete them because they are stored in the cloud, but I want to make sure they are in proper files so that I can retrieve them easily. Hence, it took several hours!

    This evening, Blueberry Cheesecake came to play at Maya. It turns out that the Georgian drummer and I have a couple of mutual friends - Manda and Tom, whom I first met in Vietnam over ten years ago. We exchanged a couple of voice notes as a catch-up 😊. It's a very small world!!
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  • Ladies day 😀

    January 21 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Another planned work day that didn't materialise! 😂 I saw Sheetal at breakfast, and she invited me to join her, her friend who's just arrived from Bangalore, and Ikjot on a trip to Mapusa market. Even though I've been there before, it's a great market, so I agreed! It was interesting seeing the place through Sheetal's eyes - she really didn't like the pungent aromas of the fish market 😂. She was very good at bargaining, though - she got me a great price on another outfit for Umesh's little boy. I'm much happier with this one! Other than that, I only bought some salted cashews. Sheetal bought masala spices to take home to Bangalore with her, and Ikjot stocked up on cake decorating supplies.Read more

  • A chilled evening at Maya

    January 21 in India ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    From the market, we drove to a dosa restaurant for lunch. The food was excellent, and the prices were ridiculously cheap!

    Later, Saahil and Neha came over to Maya and we had a very relaxing musical evening, rounded off with delicious spicy noodles prepared by chef. It was rather too late for me to be eating, but I went with the flow 😀.Read more