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  • Happy Days Travel

Solo Trip to India and Nepal

This is my first solo overseas trip since Mark died earlier this year. I'm excited to return to India and to explore Nepal for the first time, but it will be strange not to have Mark with me to share the experience with. Leia mais
  • From Kathmandu to Delhi

    27 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I spent my last full day in Nepal working and packing. I was low on Nepali cash and didn't want to draw any more, so I stayed in and ate the remaining groceries I had in the cupboard! Later, I went out to pick up my laundry.

    It was with a real sense of sadness that I checked out of Cityview Guest House this morning. The property really suited my needs. I was able to get a lot of work done, as well as explore Kathmandu from my central location. I wouldn't hesitate to book there again if I want somewhere to work for a few weeks.

    Having said that, what followed did not leave me with the best impression of Nepal! It proved far more difficult to leave the country than it had been to enter it!

    The taxi to the airport was fine, but then things got frustrating! The check-in area at Kathmandu Airport is tiny and very disorganised. It was chaotic! I was early as I always am, and Air India's check-in desks were not open. I'd already checked in online, so I just needed to drop my bag, but there was nowhere to do this, and nowhere to wait, either. I just had to stand in the general melee and keep moving out of the way when people with trolleys wanted to get through. Despite being told to be at the airport three hours before departure time, the check-in desks didn't even open until less than two hours before! I was second in line and checked in, only to be told to go to the corner and make sure my bag went through to airside! That has never happened to me before. I joined a crowd at the end of the conveyor and watched as my bag passed me. I still wasn't allowed to leave. I had to check that it was correctly removed from the belt on the other side of a curtain. Anybody's luggage that wasn't, had to do it themselves! In effect, we were all being asked to be baggage handlers. As I was told I was free to go to security, I had no faith that my case would actually arrive in Delhi 😄.

    We then had to go through three separate passport and paperwork checks before we were finally stamped out of Nepal. This was frustrating because certain passengers kept getting fast-tracked. Just when you thought you were getting close to the front of a queue, several monks flying business class would suddenly be allowed in front of you!

    Bag security took ages! They were very thorough, which is no bad thing, but it was the way the officers just tipped our belongings out of our bags and then pushed the loose items down to the end of the bench that was annoying. Everything was mixed up. People were struggling to find their shoes! I was clearly taking too long to sort my stuff out, so it was unceremoniously pushed off the bench onto the floor! Luckily, I'd grabbed my laptop before this happened!

    When we had successfully navigated all of this, we were already at the departure gates. There were no facilities to speak of - just one small cafe/shop where the staff were struggling to cope with the demand of thousands of passengers. I found somewhere to sit and wait. Our scheduled departure time had already passed, so it was obvious we were delayed, even though there had been no announcement to say so.

    Eventually, they called my flight. We passed through security again. I've never had a boarding card with so many stamps on it and holes punched in it in my life! Then, it was onto a bus to be taken to the aircraft. There appeared to be only one bus per flight, so we had to wait for the first busload of passengers to be taken before the driver could come back for the next lot.

    I was on the final bus, and I thought we would soon be on our way. However, when we got to the plane, things got even stranger. There were three sheds on wheels joined together (like small railway carriages) pushed up against the steps up into the plane. Another first for me. There were already lots of passengers queuing up on the tarmac. We were separated into males and females and directed to join the appropriate queue. We were all rather bemused at what was going on. We were told we couldn't take photos, but I'd already taken a couple before I was stopped from taking any more.

    We waited a long time in those queues without understanding why. When we finally entered the first of the 'carriages', we realised it was another security check. The reason it was taking so long was that they were emptying all of our carry-on luggage and checking everything. Some people protested that we'd already been checked thoroughly, but the officers were having none of it. The lady in front of me had her walking poles confiscated, despite the fact that the earlier screening had allowed them through. When it came to my turn, I was confident that I had nothing that I shouldn't have. However, they objected to my insect repellent and the sugar-free caramels that I suck to stop the pain in my ears during take-off and landing. They took both items off me. I asked why the earlier check had allowed them through. They said it was an airline ruling. When I said I had taken several Air India flights in the last few months and had always had these things in my hand luggage, they told me that the rule applied specifically to the Kathmandu-Delhi route. I was getting annoyed by this time. I was about to argue that I had brought both items to Nepal on an Air India flight from Delhi four weeks ago, but I heard Mark's voice in my head telling me to keep quiet and just accept what was happening 😄. So, I did!

    We finally took off almost two hours late, but we did make up some time during the flight, and they did serve a very tasty chicken curry and rice for lunch, so it wasn't all bad 😂. And my case did make it to Delhi, albeit it was the last item off the plane, and I was beginning to fear the worst! Once through security (again!), and getting told off for not completing an e-Arrival form (I'd actually forgotten I was on an international flight!), I finally made it to the outside world and got a taxi to my hotel.
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  • Pashupati Temple

    25 de março, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a coffee overlooking the stupa, and then took a taxi to our second stop - Pashupati Temple. This is a revered Hindu temple dedicated to Pashupati, a manifestation of Shiva. Located on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River in Kathmandu, the temple is one of the oldest and most significant religious complexes in South Asia. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, it is one of seven monument groups in UNESCO's designation of Kathmandu Valley and is described as an "extensive Hindu temple precinct" comprising a vast network of temples, ashrams, inscriptions, and images raised over the centuries along the banks of the sacred Bagmati River. The temple, considered one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for Hindus, is built on an area of 246 hectares and includes 518 mini-temples and the principal pagoda-style temple.

    Beyond its role as a pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple is world-renowned for its traditional open-air cremation ceremonies, performed daily at the cremation ghats along the river. Known as the most sacred site for Hindu cremation in Nepal, the Pashupatinath Temple cremation complex is where families conduct final rites according to ancient customs. Visitors are drawn not only by religious devotion but also by the powerful experience of witnessing the Pashupatinath cremation ceremony, which offers a rare and profound glimpse into the Hindu cremation process. This sacred ritual, deeply symbolic and spiritually rich, underscores why cremation at Pashupatinath Temple holds such cultural and spiritual weight in Nepalese society.

    This is why we were here. Every day, families bring the bodies of their deceased loved ones to the temple's cremation complex, located beside the holy Bagmati River. Cremations usually begin in the morning and continue until dusk. Visitors can observe these rituals from across the river, where respectful distance is maintained. Cremation here is not just a personal ceremony but also a cultural practice that reflects Hindu beliefs about life, death, and the soul’s journey. The sight of the burning pyres, smoke rising into the sky, and mourners chanting prayers is deeply moving, offering a unique window into Nepalese and Hindu traditions.

    It was quite a shock to suddenly see several cremations in progress, and another body being brought to the water's edge to be burned, albeit we were at a distance. There were hundreds of spectators, seemingly oblivious to the smell of burning flesh in the air. There were lots of families with young children, and there was something of a party atmosphere. Nobody seemed upset or fazed. Here, the ritual is a normal part of life. It's in stark contrast to the way we do things in the west. In the light of Mark's recent death, and the unattended cremation we had for him, I'm undecided as to which system has more merit.

    We watched for a while and then crossed the river to attend the Pashupatinath Bagmati Aarati, a spiritual ceremony filled with chants, lights, and devotion. Every evening, as the sun sets over the sacred river, the air fills with the divine sound of bells, conch shells, and sacred chants. This ritual is not just a religious ceremony—it is a deeply moving cultural performance that connects devotees to the divine presence of Lord Shiva. Three priests perform the sacred worship using ghee lamps, oil lanterns, and incense. They move the lamps in circular motions, symbolizing the offering of light and life to the Divine. The rhythmic chants of Vedic mantras, accompanied by bhajans (devotional songs), create an atmosphere filled with peace and spiritual energy. An integral part of the ceremony is the Tandav dance, a powerful and symbolic dance of Lord Shiva representing the cosmic cycle of creation and destruction. Devotees perform this dance as an offering of reverence and energy during the Aarati, making the scene even more vibrant. It was certainly a spectacle. Whilst I didn't understand everything that was happening, it was clear that it meant a lot to all those in attendance.

    Afterwards, we had to make the long walk back to where we had left our shoes (I don't think I've ever walked so far barefoot!). We were almost there when Rajan realised he didn't have his phone. I waited while he went back to where we'd been sitting. He was gone for a long time, and we were in danger of not being able to retrieve our shoes. The guy at the counter refused point blank to give them to me because Rajan had the ticket! He was about to lock the gate when Rajan finally appeared. Thankfully, he had the ticket - and his phone!

    We then took a taxi back to Thamel and I walked back to my hotel. It had been a unique experience. I'm glad I witnessed it, but I won't be rushing to repeat it.
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  • Boudhanath Temple

    25 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    He was early, as was I, but we had to wait for quite a while to get a taxi. When we did, we got stuck in Kathmandu's rush hour traffic, so it took us about 45 minutes to cover the 5 kilometres to Boudhanath Stupa. When we arrived, there was a real wow moment as we passed through the entry point and I got my first sight of the stupa.

    Boudhanath Stupa is a major spiritual landmark seen as the embodiment of the enlightened mind of all the Buddhas, located in Boudha, within the city of Kathmandu. Built in the northeast of Kathmandu Valley and originally surrounded by rice paddies, the stupa gave birth to Tibetan Buddhism. It is filled with consecrated substances, and its layout as a massive mandala makes it the largest spherical stupa in Nepal and one of the largest in the world.

    The present structure was most likely built in the 14th century, although Newar chronicles mention the construction of a stupa here as early as the 5th century. In 1979 the Boudha Stupa became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Following the 1959 Tibetan uprising, a large number of Tibetan refugees migrated to Nepal and settled around the stupa in Boudha. The Tibetan diaspora has given rise to the construction of over 50 gompas and Buddhist monasteries, restaurants, guesthouses, and artisanal businesses around Boudha. Along with Swayambhunath and Namo Buddha, it is one of the most visited pilgrimage sites for devout Buddhists, and also attracts tourists to the Kathmandu area.

    Many visitors to the stupa come to do the kora, a meditative ritual rooted in Tibetan Buddhist tradition. It involves circumambulating the stupa clockwise while spinning prayer wheels, chanting quietly, and walking with full presence. To do it respectfully, one must dress modestly, avoid loud speech or intrusive photography, and observe the behaviour of locals. The early morning and dusk are ideal times to experience the stillness and devotion this practice embodies. More than a ritual, kora is a quiet act of connection to yourself, the community, and something timeless. It was quite a spectacle to stand and watch the Buddhist devotees.
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  • The Garden of Dreams

    25 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I dropped off my laundry this morning and then came back to the hotel to work.

    Later, I made my way to Thamel. I had booked a tour to Boudhanath Stupa and Pashupati Temple, starting from the Garden of Dreams at 4.15pm. I walked over there early to give me a chance to explore the gardens.

    They were created by Kaiser Shumsher JB Rana in the 1920s and were the most refined Rana gardens of the time. They were restored as a Kathmandu cultural landmark with the support of the Austrian government and were opened to the general public in October 2006. Today, they are a magnet for young Nepali Instagrammers who don't have to pay to enter (foreigners pay 400 rupees). I enjoyed my visit. I spent most of it sitting on a bench watching the antics of girls in elaborate long dresses and saris and boys in cheap suits videoing each other for the 'gram' 😄.

    I then went for a last wander around Thamel. I bought a pair of cotton trousers (green, of course 😂) and had a ham and cheese croissant in Pumpernickel Bakery for lunch before heading back to meet Rajan, my guide.
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  • Apple pie and yoghurt

    24 de março, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    When I'd done my 10,000 steps, I treated myself to a slice of apple pie from the Snowman Cafe, another Lonely Planet recommendation. This restaurant was one of the first to open in Freak Street in the 1960s. It has been an institution for hippies and backpackers for decades. It is still owned and operated by the same guy. His homemade apple pie is legendary, but I found it really disappointing. It was heavily flavoured with cloves, which made it taste rather medicinal. Each to their own, I suppose.

    On my way back to my hotel, I bought some local fermented yoghurt. I love that it's sold in the terracotta pots that its made in. I'm going to miss it when I'm back in India.

    We had some rain this evening, but it was still warm. I opened my windows and took in the sights and sounds of central Kathmandu - another thing I'm going to miss!
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  • Colourful local shops

    24 de março, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I bought some timur to take home with me. I bought both the whole and ground versions of this native Himalayan spice. It's closely related to Chinese Sichuan pepper, but it has a distinctive citrussy flavour. We used it in the momo-making class I went to. I'm looking forward to being able to recreate them back in the UK.Leia mais

  • Exploring my local neighbourhood

    24 de março, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I've spent the last few days working.

    Today, after a productive morning's work, I headed out for lunch. I went to Kumari's Restaurant, which was recommended in Lonely Planet, particularly for its buff (buffalo) chow mein. It's a real 'spit and sawdust' restaurant that looks nothing from the outside. It was busy, though, with locals (all men!), so I went in and ordered the famous dish, along with a lassi. I have to say, it was delicious. I got a large plateful, and my bill was only 350 Nepali Rupees (about £1.75).

    After eating, I went for a walk around the neighbourhood. Even though I've been here for almost a month, I'm still finding streets I haven't walked down before - and so close to my accommodation, too. I don't think you could ever get bored of a city like this. I took lots more photos of colourful and interesting shops.
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  • A trip to the cinema

    20 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    When I came out of the temple, it started to rain, so I decided to get a cab back to Kathmandu. I had seen everything I wanted to in Patan anyway. I asked the driver to drop me off at the Chhaya Centre. I had read that Ryan Gosling's new film, Project Hail Mary, was being released today and there would be a showing at 4.45pm. I was too early, but I decided to go and see if I could get a ticket. My mission was successful 😄. From the seating plan, it looked like the cinema would be almost full to capacity.

    As I had a couple of hours to spare, I went for a wander through Tamel and stopped at the Artisan Bakery for an iced Americano. Afterwards, the sky went black, and there was thunder in the air, so I headed back to the Chhaya Centre. I got there just as the heavens opened! It was one almighty storm!! I was glad to wait indoors, even if the power kept going off, and I doubted that they would actually be able to show the film. In the end, all was well. I got myself a small bag of salted popcorn and went to find my seat. Everyone else coming in had trays full of burgers, chips, hot dogs, buckets of popcorn, and massive cartons of drinks! I enjoyed the film, though probably not as much as the rest of the audience, who all appeared to be locals. They laughed out loud at jokes that I thought were mildly amusing, and gasped in horror at the 'scary' bits! At the end, they all applauded and cheered loudly. It was quite an experience. It was a long film (2 hours 36 minutes), made even longer by a 30-minute intermission so that people could go and get more food and drink!

    It was 8.30pm by the time I was leaving the theatre and walking back to my hotel. It was only drizzling by then, but the roads and pavements were really wet from the storm. It was also pitch black. I had to use the torch on my phone to see where I was walking. It was too late to collect my laundry, so that will be the first job tomorrow.
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  • The Golden Temple

    20 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After lunch, I visited the Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal). This magnificent Buddhist temple is tucked away in a hidden courtyard. It's not easy to find! At the moment, it is undergoing extensive restoration work, but it was still worth a visit. Its history dates back to the 12th century, and its gilded metal facade is one of the most beautiful in Patan. The main priest of the temple is a young boy under the age of 12, who serves for 30 days before handing the job over to another young boy. The guardians of the temple are yellow tortoises that supposedly wander around all over the site. I didn't see any!Leia mais

  • Lunch in Durbar Square

    20 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    By the time I exited the museum, I was ready for something to eat, so I found a table in a cafe overlooking the square and ordered chicken sadeko, a popular Nepali starter featuring cooked pieces of chicken thigh mixed with fresh onion, garlic, ginger, coriander, green chillies, lemon juice, and a dressing of tempered mustard oil. It was delicious!Leia mais

  • Patan Museum

    20 de março, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I did visit the Patan Museum, which is located in the northernmost courtyard of Patan's Royal Palace, dating from 1734. It houses one of the finest collections of religious art in Asia. It was certainly impressive, but I was more drawn to the building's incredible architecture. There were many 'wow' moments as I walked through the rooms, grounds, and courtyards.Leia mais

  • An audience with a living goddess

    20 de março, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Yesterday was a work day, so I stayed indoors all day.

    After breakfast this morning, I walked up to Durbar Square to get a taxi to take me to Durbar Square in Patan, the second of Kathmandu Valley's three great medieval cities. It's only a few kilometres from Kathmandu, and as the cities have grown, it is now only separated from the sprawling capital by the Bagmati River. Many locals still call Patan by its original Sanskrit name of Lalitpur, meaning City of Beauty. Patan's charm lies in its medieval network of tole (squares) and bahal (courtyards), which together house more than 1000 Buddhist monuments. Its Durbar Square boasts some of Nepal's grandest temples and royal architecture, most of which date from the Malla glory days of the 16th to 18th centuries.

    There were road closures around Durbar Square, so my taxi driver had to drop me off about a 15-minute walk away. This turned out to be quite fortuitous as the walk took me past the Ratnakar Mahavihar, home to Patan's Kumari (living goddess). I would probably have missed this if I'd been dropped off in the main square. Unlike Kathmandu's Kumari, Patan's is accessible to the public (for a donation!). You go into the adjoining temple, through a door into a scruffy storeroom, remove your shoes, and climb a steep, narrow ladder to an equally scruffy anteroom, where one of the Kumari's chaperones takes you in to meet the goddess herself. It's a very bizarre experience. The goddess doesn't speak, so you have to be directed by her guardian and ask any questions you might have through her.

    So, what do you do when you meet a living goddess? How do you behave? Well, the etiquette is quite simple. You kneel on a cushion at her feet, place some money on the floor, she marks your forehead with a bindi, gives you a silent blessing, and you are dismissed! She doesn't smile or interact with you. It seems to me like a pretty miserable existence. She is available for these 'audiences' between 10am and 12noon and 2pm and 4pm every day. This Kumari has held the position since she was five years old. She is now 12, so she will soon be relieved of her duties and will be able to have a normal life. If I were her, I'd be looking forward to that day very much 😊.

    Suitably blessed, I continued my walk. Just outside the Kumari's house, there were several prominent 'Free Palestine' posters. I don't know if these were anything to do with the living goddess 🤔.
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  • Bhaktapur Royal Palace

    18 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We ended our tour with a quick visit to the Bhaktapur Royal Palace. King Ranjit Malla built it in 1754. It is the last masterpiece of the Malla period, a perfect mix of metalcraft and architecture, and now the setting for pre-wedding photos for many couples.

    There are colourful craft shops, exquisite Hindu and Buddhist temples, quaint lanes, and delicious street food everywhere in Bhaktapur. I could easily have spent a day or two there, but sadly, our visit was limited to a few hours.

    After the tour, Dipendra drove us back to Kathmandu. I chose to get dropped off in Thamel with Rosa, as I intended to go to the cinema to see Crime 101. I had checked online this morning and thought it was showing at the Chhaya Centre. However, when I got there, I was told the screening had been cancelled, and there wouldn't be any others. So, instead, I went to the Pumpernickel Bakery and had mushroom soup with freshly-baked walnut bread for dinner before walking back to my hotel. Once there, I sorted out my laundry and went to drop it off.
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  • Yoghurt and daggers 😀

    18 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We tried Juju Dhau, 'the king of curds', a speciality of Bhaktapur. It is a yoghurt made from a blend of buffalo and cow milk, sweetened and lightly spiced and left to ferment in clay bowls on a bed of broken rice. It was absolutely delicious!

    Bhaktapur is also renowned as the place to go to buy an ex-Gurkha khukuri dagger. Numerous shops and showrooms are selling them. Most of these claim to have presented one to Prince Harry. They have the same photo in their window to prove it 😂.
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  • Peacock Shop Paper Factory

    18 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We also visited the evocative Peacock Shop Paper Factory, where all of the products are created from paper made by hand using the bark of the lokta bush. I could have spent hours in there! Just across the alleyway is the Peacock Window. Known locally as the 'Mona Lisa of Nepal', this intricately carved window dates from the early 1400s.Leia mais

  • Bhaktapur pottery

    18 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Bhaktapur is famous for its pottery, made with both unusual black clay and the more common terracotta-coloured variety. There were pots spread out to dry in the sun around every corner. In Pottery Square, we watched as a very skilled craftsman threw a pot on a wheel, and visited the communal kiln, where all the local artisans take their pots to be fired.Leia mais

  • Bhaktapur

    18 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Bhaktapur is the third of the valley's medieval city-states, after Kathmandu and Patan, with a history dating back to the 8th century. It's the one that best retains the timeless atmosphere of a traditional Newari town. The best thing about it is that there are far fewer tourists than in Kathmandu, so it is a pleasure to walk around and get clear views of the stunning religious architecture, as well as the quirky backstreets where artisans ply their trades as they have for hundreds of years.

    We stopped to try some street food - delicious lentil and vegetable ring doughnuts that tasted similar to falafel, and hand-cooked crisps flavoured with masala spices. We saw traditional Newari dress, both on mannequins outside shops, and on people posing for photos in the squares.
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  • Nagarkot

    18 de março, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After a couple of days spent working, today, I was going on a tour to Bhaktapur and Nagarkot. My driver, Dipendra, came to meet me at 10am. He had had to park the minibus at some distance from my hotel, so we chatted as we walked. His son is currently studying hospitality at the University of East London. He's finding the culture shock and the weather difficult to deal with. I'm not surprised - it's the first time he has been out of Nepal! Once we reached the van, we drove a short distance to pick up Sajina, the guide for the day, and then on to Thamel to collect the only other guest, Rosa from Poland.

    Sajina gave us a brief introduction to the day, and then we set off for the 90-minute drive to Nagarkot. On the way, Rosa and I chatted non-stop about travel 😄. The scenery as we climbed into the hills was stunning. The reason for going to Nagarkot was to get a good view of the Himalayas, including Everest. Sadly, despite the sunny day and blue sky, the mountains were covered in clouds. We did get the odd glimpse of a peak appearing through the top of the clouds, but it wasn't clear enough to photograph, not with my phone anyway!

    From Nagarkot, we drove down into the Kathmandu Valley to visit Bhaktapur, passing many brick-making plants, with their distinctive towering kilns, on the way.
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  • Bus back to Kathmandu

    15 de março, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I was up early and having breakfast in the garden by 7am. It set me up for my walk to the bus station and my 7-hour journey back to Kathmandu. The road was under construction for much of the way, so it was very bumpy. The hairiest moments came when there was a terrific hailstorm as we were negotiating hairpin bends on mountain roads! The sheer volume of water quickly turned the roads into rivers. Luckily, I couldn't see much through the steamed-up windows, and I was too busy trying to keep dry from where the rain was pouring in!

    We eventually arrived in Kathmandu at around 3.15pm. The bus dropped us off a bit further from the centre than I had thought, so I took a taxi to Durbar Square. Once there, I went to a traditional momo restaurant I've had my eye on. I had a plate of steamed buffalo momos in broth for £1! They were delicious.

    On my way back to my hotel, I picked up a few groceries as I intend to work for the next couple of days. It felt good to be 'home'.
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