• Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade
Oct 2024 – May 2025

South American Adventure

This epic eight-month overlanding trip through South America has been a long time in the planning! We will be visiting Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile, Peru, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Brazil. Exciting times! 😊 Read more
  • Arriving at our hotel for the night

    November 1, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Once we’d climbed back up to where the truck was parked, we drove the short distance to our hotel for the night.

    We had to negotiate a couple of tricky corners in the middle of town, so one of our group jumped off to help Ritchie and then rode shotgun for the rest of the journey 😀.

    At the hotel, we all commented on how much colder it is than at any other time since arriving in Colombia!
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  • Our first border crossing with the truck

    November 2, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We were up early for breakfast at 7am and departure by 7.30am.  The coffee served by the hotel this morning was nondescript and lukewarm - such a shame after all the amazing coffee we've drunk in Colombia!

    Our hotel was just 4km from the border with Ecuador, so it didn’t take us long to get there.  Exiting Colombia was quick and painless.  We exchanged our remaining Colombian pesos for US dollars, the official currency of Ecuador 🇪🇨. 

    Then, we were back on the truck for the short drive through no man's land to the Ecuadorian entry point.  The whole group were stamped in with no issues - we all got pretty pink stamps!  We then had to wait for Ritchie to get through with the truck.  Luckily, the sun came out and there were plenty of people selling fruit, drinks, and snacks.

    It's a good job - because we ended up having to wait for 6 hours!!  We don't know why, but the one official on duty kept pushing our paperwork to the bottom of the pile.  We eventually got stamped into Ecuador at 2pm!

    It was no big deal really.  It’s just that our destination, Otavalo, is famous for its craft markets, and the biggest day of the week for these is Saturday.  Now, we were not going to arrive in daylight.

    Anyway, we began our drive into Ecuador - country number 63 for us.  The scenery quickly became spectacular.  It was a lovely journey through the mountains.  After a couple of hours, we had a toilet and fuel stop, and many of the group took the opportunity to buy fresh fruit from one of the many sellers on the garage forecourt.  Everything appeared to cost $1!

    We arrived at our hostel in Otavalo at dusk.  Hostel Curinan is located on the top of a hill overlooking the town.  It is a family-built and family-run business.  Like most of the inhabitants of Otavalo, the family are Incas and are proud of their indigenous heritage and their Quichua language.

    The town sits at an altitude of 2,550 metres above sea level.  We all felt the effects of this to some extent.  It was certainly colder than we've been used to!

    After being allocated rooms and dropping off our bags, most of us rushed up to the roof to catch the last of the sunset and the magnificent views.

    Later, there was a scheduled power outage,  an everyday occurance in Ecuador.  Most of the group made their way into town to find something to eat.  We weren’t hungry, so we stayed in the courtyard chatting to Ritchie, Gill, Shanda, Johnno, and Nikki.  The power came back on at 9pm - we took that as the cue to turn it in.
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  • Exploring Otavalo

    November 3, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Despite it being a free day, we were up early, ready for breakfast in the hostel, the highlight of which was a delicious fresh blackberry juice with no added sugar.

    After breakfast, we took some photos around the hostel and then went out to explore the town.

    Otavalo is called the 'Intercultural Capital of Ecuador' for its cultural and historical richness, and for being the place of origin of the Otavalo Quichua people, famous for their textile and commercial skills, characteristics that have given rise to the largest indigenous artisan market in South America, called 'La Plaza de Ponchos'. This is where we headed first.

    Despite Saturday being the biggest day for the market, there was still plenty to look at and shop for today. We spent two or three hours wandering around the stalls. There was clearly some imported tat, but there were also some exquisite Ecuadorian textiles, including blankets, ponchos, table runners, cushion covers, wall hangings, and scarves. I could have bought loads, but restricted myself to a warm jacket and a hat with a brim to give me some protection from the equatorial sun.
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  • Coffee and lunch in Otavalo

    November 3, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Afterwards, we went to a café Nikki had recommended for coffee.  We found about half of our group there!  We ordered afogatas and spent some time chatting to the others and comparing purchases.

    Later, we went to La Taberna Bar and Grill for lunch.  It came up as the number one restaurant in Otavalo on Google and was full of local families enjoying Sunday lunch.  We hadn’t had a proper meal for a couple of days, so it made a nice change.  Mark ordered a rare steak, which he said was the best he'd had in a long time.  I had chicken in a mushroom sauce.  Both came with a large salad and home cooked chips.  As we are finding all the time on this trip, the portions were huge!

    After lunch, we set off to walk back up the hill to the hostel, but the heavens opened, so we flagged down a taxi.  It cost all of $2 to take us there!
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  • Day of the Dead party

    November 3, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    At 5pm, we were all invited to a Day of the Dead party hosted by the family who own the hostel. The Day of the Dead has pre-Columbian origins. Indigenous communities held ceremonies and rituals to honour the memory of their ancestors. With the arrival of the Spanish, these indigenous traditions merged with Catholic customs, creating a unique celebration that combines both worldviews.

    In Ecuador, families gather at cemeteries to pay their respects. They clean and decorate the graves of loved ones with flowers and candles. The atmosphere is one of reflection, but also of celebration, as families reminisce about their loved ones, sharing stories and memories.

    Music often fills the air, with traditional bands playing folk tunes, creating an atmosphere that is both solemn and festive.

    Central to the celebration is the preparation and consumption of 'Colada Morada', a thick, fruity drink made from black corn flour and a variety of fruits like blackberries, strawberries, and pineapple, spiced with cinnamon and cloves, and sweetened with panela (unrefined whole cane sugar). The rich purple colour of the drink is significant as it represents the mixing of the 'blood' of the various fruits, reminiscent of the unity and collective mourning of the community. Furthermore, some believe that the ingredients used have ancestral significance, as many of them were present in the indigenous diet long before the Spanish arrived. Consuming Colada Morada is akin to partaking in a shared history and memory, a collective act of remembrance.

    To eat, Ecuadorians have 'Guaguas de Pan', sweet bread figures, often shaped like children or animals. 'Guagua' means child in the indigenous Kichwa language. These bread figures are decorated with coloured icing and sometimes filled with sweet fillings. The guagua de pan is a symbolic representation of the souls of departed children. The act of crafting these bread figurines is not only a culinary tradition but a form of remembrance. The consumption of the bread symbolizes the internalisation of the memories of the departed, ensuring they remain a part of the living. It also embodies the idea that death is a part of life, and through these rituals, the cycle of life and death is acknowledged and honoured.

    Both of these delicacies are enjoyed together and are a treat that Ecuadorians look forward to every year.

    We were served both and were entertained with traditional singing, dancing, and the playing of a wooden panpipe. The family had made a fire, so we were all toasty warm. We stayed on after the celebrations were over, chatting together in the dark during another scheduled power outage. It was a memorable evening.
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  • Leaving Otavalo

    November 4, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We were all up for breakfast at 7am, ready to leave by 8am.  We said a sad goodbye to the family who had been perfect hosts.  We also waved a temporary goodbye to Sam and Megan, who are leaving us for a couple of days to go and stay with friends.  They will rejoin us in Quito.

    We left Otavalo, and it wasn't long before we caught our first glimpses of a snow-covered mountain!
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  • Standing on the Equator

    November 4, 2024 in Ecuador

    After about a 90-minute drive, we reached the 'middle of the world' and got to stand on the equator.  We each paid $5 to enter the exhibition.  Included in the entrance fee was a fascinating talk.  We had plenty of time to take photos, especially with the backdrop of a snow-covered mountain!  It felt like a significant moment!Read more

  • Arriving in Quito

    November 4, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Back on the truck, we continued our drive to Quito.  The mountain scenery all around us was truly spectacular, as was the extent of the sprawling capital as we hit the city’s outskirts!

    Quito, Ecuador's capital, sits high in the Andean foothills at an altitude of 2,850m. Constructed on the foundations of an ancient Incan city, it’s known for its well-preserved colonial centre, rich with 16th and 17th century churches and other structures blending European, Moorish and indigenous styles. These include the cathedral, in the Plaza Grande square, and the ultra-ornate Compañia de Jesús Jesuit church.

    The city has a population of 3 million out of a total of 20 million in the country as a whole.

    Today is the last day of a five-day holiday, so we drove through quiet streets to the truck park on the edge of the city. Here, we offloaded our bags because the truck couldn't get any closer to where we were staying and took a number of taxis into the historic centre.

    Our hostel is The Secret Garden. First impressions were very good. We had upgraded to a private room, which we were very happy with. We dumped our bags and went up to the rooftop bar and restaurant to take in the stunning views across the old town. We ordered some food - lasagne for me and chicken fillet for Mark. It was extremely good and very reasonably priced at 50% off the prices given on the menu as we are staying in the hostel. It was just $13 for the two of us. We were going to cook for ourselves while we are here, but I don't think we'll bother!

    We were soon joined by many others from the group, including Denise, a friend of Gill's who is joining the trip here. We chatted to her for a while. She has done a lot of overlanding, so we'll enjoy swapping stories with her.

    After a while, we left the others enjoying their afternoon drinks and went to sort out our laundry and decide what we are going to do with our two free days in Quito. We were thwarted somewhat because there was a power outage - the washing will have to wait until tomorrow. We spent the rest of the day sitting in a quieter area on the roof doing posts until it got too cold and we retired inside.
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  • Walking tour of Quito

    November 5, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I didn’t sleep too well as I am full of cold, but we woke up to a beautiful sunny morning and the view from the roof while we were having breakfast was stunning!

    We decided to join the free walking tour from the hostel which started at 10am.  Nobody else from our group was doing it - most of them were taking the cable car - but we were joined by a nice selection of friendly people from the US, Canada, the Netherlands, the UK, and Sweden.  Our guide was Vale.  She was excellent.  It turned out to be a very enjoyable tour.

    We left the hostel and walked along streets of colourful houses.  There is not much street art here, nothing like we saw in Colombia, but there is still plenty of colour to enjoy.
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  • Basilica del Voto Nacional

    November 5, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Our first stop was at the Basílica del Voto Nacional, a Roman Catholic church located in the historic centre.  It is the largest neo-Gothic basilica in the Americas.  The main church is 140 metres long, 35 metres wide, and 30 metres tall.  The towers are 115 metres tall.   Construction began on July 10, 1892.  Despite being blessed by Pope John Paul II on January 30, 1985, and consecrated on July 12, 1988, the basilica remains technically 'unfinished'.  Local legend says that when the Basílica is completed, the end of the world will come.

    Vale pointed out the different animals on each side of the outside of the church.  They represent the four geographic regions of Ecuador - the Andes, the coastal lowlands, the Oriente, and the Galapagos islands.  It's the first time I've seen turtles carved into the tops of church pillars!

    We didn't have time during the walking tour to go into the church, so we will probably come back to do that tomorrow.
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  • The historic centre of Quito

    November 5, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    From the basilica, we walked down the hill to the historic centre of Quito where we had a look around a gallery displaying indigenous art.  Our next stop was in the city's main plaza.  There, we admired the presidential palace, the cathedral, and the government buildings.  We went into the national library.  Here, Vale explained to us all about Ecuador's recent history, including several changes of president, and the switch from the sucre as the national currency to the US dollar.Read more

  • Juices and chocolate

    November 5, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We then went to a juice bar where we sampled different fresh juices and delicious chicken and rice empanadas. This was quickly followed by a visit to a chocolate maker located in a colonial-style building on Bolivar Plaza. Here, we tasted several different types of artisan chocolate, everything from 100% cocoa, to 70% flavoured with orange peel, to their 'British' chocolate - a 65% cocoa solids chocolate flavoured with fresh mint. Everything tasted really good, but at $6 for a small bar, we weren't tempted to buy any.Read more

  • The end of the walking tour

    November 5, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    This was the last stop on our walking tour, so we said our goodbyes to Vale and made our way back to the hostel with some of the others who had been walking with us.  Once there, we ordered lunch.  I had a chicken salad and Mark ordered barbecue chicken wings.  Both were very good, but, once again, the portions were huge!  We certainly didn't need to eat anything else for the rest of the day.Read more

  • The Virgin of El Panecillo

    November 5, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After lunch, I intended to do some posts and, perhaps, get some other work done, but we got chatting to Britt and Greg instead.  They had made a last-minute decision to leave the truck for a week and go to the Galapagos Islands, so they were just booking their flights.  We agreed to share a taxi with them to visit the Virgin of El Panecillo at sunset.

    This statue of the Virgin Mary is located on the top of the hill of El Panecillo in the heart of Quito.  At a total height of 41 meters, it is the highest statue in Ecuador and one of the highest in South America (taller than the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro.  It is also the tallest aluminium statue in the world.  Designed and built by the Spanish sculptor Agustín de la Herrán Matorras, the statue was made from 7,400 pieces of aluminium, with each piece clearly numbered.  The statue was then disassembled, shipped to Ecuador, and assembled again on top of the base.  It was finished on March 28, 1975.  The Virgin Mary is depicted standing with a serpent at her feet.  The snake represents sin.  Mary has her foot on the serpent's head and is holding a chain that is wrapped around its neck.  The whole tableau is designed to show the triumph of good over evil.

    By the time we arrived at the statue, it was closed, so we couldn't go in, but we did have a good walk around and watched the sky change colour as the sun set behind the mountains.  Later, we returned to the hostel and took a couple of photos of the city from the roof.  We arranged to take a trip on the cable car with Susan in the morning.
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  • Taking a cable car to over 4000 metres!

    November 6, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We woke up to the terrible news that Donald Trump has won the election to be the next president of the USA. It’s a very scary prospect for the world! The two Americans in our group are grieving this morning!

    We had breakfast and then met Susan in reception to take a taxi up to the TelefériQo (from teleférico and Quito), a gondola lift, running from the edge of the city centre up the east side of Pichincha Volcano to lookout Cruz Loma. It opened in July 2005, both as a tourist attraction and a gateway to hike to the summit of Pichincha, an active stratovolcano. It is one of the highest aerial lifts in the world, rising from 3,117 metres to 3,945 metres. The ascent takes about twenty minutes, travelling 2,237 linear metres.

    It cost us $9 each for the round trip. It was impossible to take photos or videos from inside the car as there was too much graffiti scratched into the windows, unfortunately. Once at the top, we could definitely feel the effects of the altitude, but it wasn't as cold as we'd feared it might be. We climbed another 150 metres to a height above sea level of 4100 metres. At this point, there is a swing, so we took a few photos and then made our way slowly back down. Susan walked a bit higher, but she hadn't come prepared to do the 6-hour circular hike around the top of the volcano, so it wasn't long before she rejoined us. We then sat having coffee and chatting for a couple of hours before taking the cable car back down.
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  • Quito's basilica

    November 6, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Once there, we took a taxi to the Basilica.  Susan hadn't visited, and we didn't get to go in yesterday, so we all paid our $4 entrance fee for foreigners to see inside and to climb the towers.  The rose window alone was worth the price of a ticket!  It was stunning!  The roof space looked like a church in itself.  The views from the top were amazing.Read more

  • Pizza for lunch

    November 6, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After our visit, we made our way back to the hostel.  On the way, we bumped into Theresa, so we all walked together.  Susan left us to go to a vegetarian restaurant for a late lunch.  We opted to go to a tiny pizza restaurant on the same street as the hostel.  The owner's grandfather came from Italy years ago and settled in Colombia.  He made our pizza from scratch in front of us, including tossing it in the air to create the perfect thin base.  It was surely the best pizza we have eaten outside of Italy!

    Later, we had a group photo on the roof of the hostel before Ralf leaves us tomorrow.  It happened 90 minutes later than planned.  I was still feeling really rough with my cold, so I had already gone back to the room.  So, Mark is representing both of us in the photo!
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  • Drive to Archidona

    November 7, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    I slept a bit better, I'm pleased to say!  I was still awake at 5.15am, though.  We got up, showered, and packed our bags ready for moving on after breakfast.  My blood sugar was even higher today - 8.2!  I have to make a concerted effort to get it back under control.  For breakfast, I had black coffee, scrambled eggs, a little avocado, and one cherry tomato. 

    Nikki had booked taxis to take us back to the truck park.  There was plenty of room on the truck as there were just 19 of us on this leg.  Ralf has left us to return to Germany.  He has been replaced by Denise.  Susan is travelling independently to Cotopaxi and will rejoin us in a few days.  Theresa is staying on in Quito and will catch the truck up in Banos, and Britt and Greg are going to Galapagos for a week.  They will come back on the truck just before we cross into Peru.

    We only had 188 km to cover today, but it was slow going as we had to go up and over a steep mountain pass.  The landscape was stunning - very reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands, but with higher snowcapped mountains!  As the journey continued, we drove through steep-sided lush green valleys with fast-flowing rocky rivers at the base of them.  It was really beautiful.
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  • Spectacular scenery

    November 7, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We stopped for lunch in a village that had a choice of food stands and cafés.  Mark didn’t fancy anything, but I had a skewer of barbecue chicken, a small salad, and two pieces of plantain for $1.75!  

    While we were waiting for everyone to come back to the truck, a Norwegian guy on a bicycle approached us and asked if it was a Madventure truck.  Apparently, he is joining the truck in Rio to do the 3-month Guianas loop!  Between now and then, he is cycling to Rio!

    After lunch, we continued to drive through lush countryside.  The trees and plants we were seeing became more reminiscent of the jungle as we progressed.

    We arrived at our hotel in the small Amazonian town of Archidona at around 4.30pm.  It has definitely seen better days, but it has a large pool that is a great redeeming feature!  Some of our group went for a swim straight away, but we decided to wait until the morning.  13 of the group (including Nikki) are off on a two-day jungle adventure tomorrow.  The remaining eight of us (including Ritchie) are staying here for three nights.  I plan to relax and catch up on some work.
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  • Exploring Archidona

    November 8, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I slept a lot better last night and finally feel that my cold is improving.  Thankfully, my blood sugar is back to 6.4.  I got up early and went for a swim.  I wasn't the first - Derk was already in there.  It felt good to get a few lengths in before breakfast.  Just as I got out, the heavens opened, so I timed that right!

    After breakfast, those who were on the Amazon adventure left, and Solenne, Derk, Mark, and I went for a walk into town.  It's a typical small Ecuadorian town with plenty of shops and eateries.  We spent a couple of hours wandering around before going to the supermarket to buy fruit, yoghurt, cheese, and ham to try to keep me on track for the next couple of days.
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  • More photos of Archidona

    November 8, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Back at the hotel, I had some yoghurt and blueberries and then went for another swim.  It was more of a wallow, really - an hour or two spent chatting with Solenne and Derk 😊.

    Later, I did actually get a bit of work done.  Mark was struggling today, so he went back to the room to rest up.  While he was there, there was a spectacular storm that continued for several hours.  

    When the rain eased off a little, I took our food over to the room.  We spent the evening catching up with Strictly! 😀
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