• Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade
Oct 2023 – Aug 2024

Working in Whitby

A working sojourn in the beautiful North Yorkshire seaside town of Whitby. Read more
  • Whitby with Jan

    April 25, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    After three short but busy days at work, we were off again! This time, Jan was coming to stay for a few days. We had really been looking forward to seeing her. The last time we were together was when she came to stay with us in York two years ago.

    She arrived by train from London yesterday, getting in to Whitby at 15.38. Mark went to pick her up. We spent the evening catching up and having a meal of lemon chicken.

    After breakfast this morning, we headed off to walk into Whitby via the Abbey and the 199 steps. It was dry when we set off, but the rain soon came down, and it started blowing a gale. At one point, we were being bombarded by hailstones!! By the time we took shelter in St Mary's Church, we were all soaked, and Mark was exhausted and in a lot of pain! Fortunately, as is the way with the great British weather, the sun soon came out, and we were able to warm up as we descended the 199 steps into town.

    We wandered through the Old Town and bought kippers from Fortunes for Mark and Jan to have for breakfast tomorrow. We stopped for a drink at the Black Horse Inn, one of Whitby's most famous pubs. They serve 'yapas' or Yorkshire tapas!! None of us was hungry, but we did share a pint of hot pork scratchings! I've never really liked them, but now they are about the only salty savoury snack I'm allowed to eat because they contain no carbs!!

    After our pit stop, we continued our tour of the town. It was lovely to show Jan all the hidden places I've discovered in Whitby. The weather stayed kind to us, and we covered a lot of ground before going to Trenchers for an early dinner.

    I didn’t take too many photos during the day as I think I've got rather too many of Whitby!! I did get some nice rooftop shots as we came down the 199 steps, though.
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  • A bus ride to Thornton-le-Dale

    April 26, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We had a leisurely breakfast and then went to catch the bus 🚌 into Whitby to get the 11.16 Coastliner service across the North Yorkshire Moors to Thornton-le-Dale. This bus route continues all the way to York and on to Leeds and is billed as the most scenic bus route in England. We meant to do it when we were living and working in York, but never quite got round to it!

    The scenery was certainly spectacular, even if the weather wasn't the best.

    We got off in Thornton-le-Dale, a picture postcard village full of thatched cottages and pretty gardens. A stream, the Thornton Beck, meanders along the streets and is crossed by several bridges.

    The most famous building in the village is Beck Isle, also known as Thatched Cottage. Grade II-listed, it was built in the 17th century and extensively modified in the 20th. It has appeared on numerous calendars and chocolate boxes over the years.

    We thoroughly enjoyed our walk around the village. Luckily, the rain held off. We were amazed by the swathes of wild garlic growing everywhere. The scent was incredible!
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  • All Saints Church, Thornton-le-Dale

    April 26, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Grade II-listed All Saints Church in Thornton-le-Dale dates from Norman times. It was almost entirely rebuilt in the 14th century, although some older aspects remain. It was modified in 1681 and again in 1865. It is in the Decorated Style, a type of English Gothic architecture that developed between 1250 and 1350.

    After visiting the church, we returned to the bus stop to catch the next bus to Goathland, passing by the spectacular Hole of Horcum on the way.
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  • Wandering around Goathland

    April 26, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Goathland is a historic village in the North Yorkshire Moors National Park, just north of Pickering. It is most famous for being used as the fictional village of Aidensfield in the Heartbeat TV series set in the 1960s. The connection with the series still draws tens of thousands of tourists every year. Many landmarks from the show are recognisable, including the shop, the quirky garage-cum-funeral directors, the railway station, and the pub.

    Sadly, the Aidensfield Arms (the Goathland Hotel in real life) was just closing as we reached it, so we went across the road to the Inn on the Moor for a drink and a snack.
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  • Goathland Railway Station

    April 26, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Leaving Mark in the pub, Jan and I walked down to Goathland Railway Station to have a look around. Not only was the station used in Heartbeat, but it also became Hogsmeade in the first Harry Potter film. Now, it is a well-used station on the popular North Yorkshire Moors Railway, which runs from Whitby to Pickering. We were very lucky that our visit coincided with the arrival and subsequent departure of a steam train 🚂!!Read more

  • Walking the Cinder Track with Jan

    April 27, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    After breakfast, Jan and I walked into Whitby along the Cinder Track. Mark was working. Phil was covering for me so that we could go and enjoy the spectacle that is the Whitby Goth Weekend.

    It was lovely to see how much greener the trees are now. We paused several times along the way just to listen to the birdsong 😊.

    When we got to Whitby, we walked up through Pannett Park to get to West Cliff. It rained very heavily at this point, so we had to take shelter in the art gallery for a while. Luckily, this was the last rain we saw today!
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  • Whitby Goth Weekend

    April 27, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Whitby Goth Weekend was founded in 1994 by Jo Hampshire and has grown to become one of the world’s premier Goth events. This weekend, the festival was celebrating 30 years of its existence. It attracts visitors from all over the world who come to Whitby to celebrate, show off, people watch, shop, enjoy the entertainment, and generally have a good time. The atmosphere is joyous, the costumes and makeup are stunning (and often outrageous!), and the people are all so friendly. You can't fail to have a permanent smile on your face as you walk around Whitby during Goth Weekend!Read more

  • St Ninian's Proprietary Chapel

    April 27, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    When I was walking through Whitby with Jan, I noticed that St Ninian's Proprietary Chapel was open. It isn't usually, so I took the opportunity to have a look around.

    A proprietary chapel is one that was built and paid for by a group of people rather than the Church of England. There are believed to be only four of them remaining in the country. St Ninian's Proprietary Chapel is the only one in Yorkshire.

    It was built by 30 of Whitby's shipbuilders at the time of Captain James Cook's voyages. It is one of very few churches in England dedicated to St. Ninian, who is acknowledged as Scotland's first Christian saint. He was born in Scotland around 360AD and studied in Rome, where he was ordained a bishop. He returned to Scotland in about 397AD and established a monastery at Withorn in Galloway. This became a renowned centre of learning. Ninian died there in 432AD. Today, Whithorn is the site of the Shrine of St Ninian.

    St Ninian's Chapel was completed in 1778. It continued within the Church of England until the Archbishop of York removed its licence in 1998. Since then, although it has continued to be used as a religious building, it hasn't been licensed by any particular religion.

    When we got home, we were rewarded with a lovely sunset 🌇 😊.
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  • New discoveries in Whitby

    May 1, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Since saying our goodbyes to Jan, we have been hard at work on site. Today was a day off, so I went swimming this morning and then walked back.

    I found the Screaming Tunnel on the Khyber Pass for the first time. There are many accounts of people hearing screams whilst walking through this tunnel, hence the name. Some people have also reported having encountered a dark figure at the end of the passage or felt a ghostly hand brush against them. Like many landmarks in Whitby, this passage has become linked to Dracula. It is said that this is his hideout, where his victims scream as they meet their fate! I can report that I experienced no ghostly apparitions as I walked through!

    What I did discover on the other side, though, was a narrow road I hadn't walked down before. It was the backs of the houses that face the harbour, most of them now used as holiday lets. Also there, is the cottage once occupied by Dora Walker, the first female fishing boat skipper.
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  • A trip home

    May 7, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Yesterday, I walked into town to go swimming. Afterwards, Mark came to meet me, and we had lunch at the Jet Black Jewel - as good as ever. Then, we went to the Pavilion to see Back to Black, the newly-released biopic of Amy Winehouse. It is an incredible piece of work - very moving. What a waste of such a talented young life!

    Today, we came home as I had an appointment for a blood test to see how I'm doing 8 weeks after my diagnosis. I also took the opportunity to get my hair cut and buy some new clothes! 😊

    ** A week later, I heard that my HbA1c result had dropped from 94 to 58!! I must be doing something right 😀.
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  • Ravenscar - the town that never was

    May 12, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Ravenscar is just a few miles down the coast. We've been meaning to visit for ages, but haven't got round to it until today. The sun was shining so, after breakfast, we decided to drive over there, hoping to have a walk and see some bluebells. We were not disappointed!

    Until the early 20th century, Ravenscar car was known as Peak or The Peak. It was renamed when plans were drawn up to turn the village into a holiday resort to rival nearby Scarborough. Roads were laid out, houses were designed, sewers were installed, and a railway station was built. However, because of the long trek to its rocky beach, Ravenscar never achieved popularity, and the development was left unfinished - a town with sewers and streets but little else.

    Today, a lot of the land around the village is cared for by the National Trust. They have a café and information centre where you can learn about the history of the place and pick up maps of local walks.

    We did one of their easier walks, which took us down to the coast, alongside the golf course, through bluebell woods, past the alum works, and back along the Cinder Track.

    We even saw an adder!!
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  • Peak Alum Works

    May 12, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    From 1650 to 1850, Peak (now Ravenscar) was a thriving hub of alum production. Alum is a crystal containing aluminium sulphate produced by a chemical process. It was ground into a powder and used as a fixing agent in the textile dyeing industry and as a preservative for tanning leather. A by-product of the alum production process was Epsom Salts, which were used in the manufacture of medicines.

    Peak was an ideal location. The vast amounts of alum shale needed for the process could be quarried from nearby hills, and other necessary materials such as human urine and seaweed were easily brought in by boat.

    Alum was one of Britain's first chemical industries. Following the discovery of alum-bearing shale in North Yorkshire, over 30 alum-producing sites were established in the 17th and 18th centuries. By 1780, they were producing 5000 tons of alum a year. At Peak, output was about 10% of the total.

    The site came into the care of the National Trust in 1979. Clearing the area revealed some of the most extensive remains of any alum works in Yorkshire. Prior to our visit today, I knew nothing about alum. I found the whole story of this little known industry absolutely fascinating!

    Alum production was very labour intensive. Up to 150 men worked at Peak in appalling conditions. They were housed in tiny rooms below the quarries and worked for up to 16 hours a day in a hot, noisy, smelly environment. Life expectancy for such workers was very low.

    Over 100 men quarried the shale. They had to dig 100 tons of shale to produce just one ton of alum. Before the shale could be extracted, though, they first had to remove tons of unwanted soil and rock. Once they had the shale, 'barrowmen' collected it and carted it on raised walkways to the base of the quarry. Here, brushwood was used to ignite heaps of shale 100 foot high and 200 foot long. These 'clamps' burnt for almost a year, turning the grey shale bright red and producing an acid that converted the aluminium sulphate in the shale to a soluble form.

    The shale was then tipped into shallow stone-lined seeping pits. The 'liquorman' then washed it with water to produce a raw alum liquor. This was then channelled from the pits to the quarry cisterns. From there, it passed down a wooden trough to the Alum House, where it was stored in preparation for the crystallisation process. The 'pitmen' had the arduous task of emptying the pits, which each contained up to 60 tons of wet shale.

    The process of converting the alum from a liquid to a solid crystal took 3 weeks. The liquor was boiled and then left to stand, allowing any impurities to settle. It was then boiled again for a further 24 hours until it turned a syrupy green. It was left to settle again before an alkali (either potash derived from burnt seaweed or stale human urine) was added.

    After 4 days, the first alum crystals had formed. These were washed to remove any remaining impurities before being placed in a roaching pan, a covered stone chest lined with lead where steam dissolved the crystals. The resulting strong liquor was then left to crystallise again in wooden roaching casks. After a further 8 days, the crystals had formed a solid block weighing over a ton. The cask was then dismantled, and the block was left to stand for another 8 days. Any remaining liquor in the centre of the block was drained by drilling a hole in it. This liquid was reused.

    Finally, the alum block was ground into alum 'flour' ready for transporting to the rest of Britain and Europe.
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  • More about the Peak Alum Works

    May 12, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Peak Alum Works is found in a remote location, not easily accessible by road. The cheapest way of bringing materials in and out when the works were operational was by sea in small sailing boats. Each craft could carry between 50 and 80 tons. From 1650, boats would berth on the rocky shore below Alum House. During the early 1800s, a narrow inlet was blasted into the rock to allow boats to get nearer to the foot of the cliff.

    Every year, 3500 tons of coal from Durham, 400 tons of seaweed, 200 tons of urine collected from the ports of Newcastle, Hull, and London, and huge quantities of lead, timber, and iron were brought to Peak by sea. Up to 600 tons of alum were sent out the same way. Because of the high value of alum, pirate raids were common. A cannon on the cliff top was fired to deter them.

    Having learned all about the fascinating history of alum, we continued our walk back to the van. It was a very enjoyable way to spend the morning 😊.
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  • A bus ride to Pickering

    May 13, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I went swimming early this morning and then met up with Mark to catch the Coastliner bus to Pickering. I don't remember ever going there before, but I suppose I might have done when I was a kid.

    The bus journey was picturesque, and the weather was kind to us. Once we arrived in Pickering, we had a wander around the town and found a lovely café to have some lunch.

    Pickering is a market town with a long history and some attractive buildings, but the main draw is the railway station, which marks one end of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. After lunch, we wandered down there in time to see the arrival and subsequent departure of a steam train.
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  • Beck Isle Museum

    May 13, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After watching the trains for a while, I left Mark sitting in the sunshine in a pub garden while I went to visit the Beck Isle Museum.

    The museum is housed in a regency period residence near the centre of town, next to Pickering Beck, a stream that flows under a four-arched road bridge. It was here that William Marshall planned England's first Agricultural Institute in the early 19th century. The house contains an interesting collection of bygones relating to the rural crafts and living style of Ryedale. The exhibits are not restricted to a particular period but aim to reflect local life and customs and trace the developments in social and domestic life during the last 200 years. A selection of photographs from the Sidney Smith collection held in the museum are displayed around the building, particularly in the photography and model rooms. Sidney Smith was born in Pickering. He is thought of as a successor to Frank Meadow Sutcliffe of Whitby.

    I loved my visit. I could have spent a lot longer there, but we had to catch the last bus back to Whitby. My ticket is valid for a year, so perhaps I will get to go back.
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  • Return to Alnwick Castle

    May 18, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a few days at work, today we were off again. Our destination this time was Holy Island, somewhere we have never been to. On the way, though, we decided to revisit Alnwick Castle. The terrible weather spoiled our last visit a few weeks ago, and our tickets were valid for a year, so we decided to go back in the sunshine!

    It made such a difference to be there in better weather! We didn’t go back inside, but we did explore more of the grounds and took some better photos.

    We went to see the magnificent state coach of the Duke of Northumberland, which dates from around 1820. It was used by the 3rd Duke when he attended the coronation of Charles X in France in 1825 as the representative of King George IV.

    In 1902, the coach was renovated, repainted, and re-trimmed for use by the 7th Duke and Duchess at the coronation of Edward VII.

    The coach was last used by the youngest daughter of the 12th Duke and Duchess for her wedding at St Michael's Church, Alnwick in 2013.
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