• Heidi Sullivan

2022 Peru

A 28-day adventure by Heidi Read more
  • Trip start
    May 26, 2022

    Packing (light) for Peru!

    May 25, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Everything for a month in Peru needs to fit in a 38L pack (plus a daypack)!

  • Off to Peru!

    May 26, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Emmett, Brendan and I are off for a month in Peru! We've been planning this trip since 2016. Was cancelled in 2020, here we go again! The boys paid for about half the total cost of their trip ( and we are going backpacking budget!).Read more

  • Lima - Barranco & Miraflores

    May 28, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Barranco and Miraflores are to the south of Lima's city center. Barranco has a reputation as the bohemian district of Lima because of its bright buildings and street art (and I think a lot of artists as well). Miraflores is an affluent district with a lot of great restaurants and shopping, and feels much different than the city center. Looks like a lot of nightlife, and it attracts tourists (shopping, food, safe).

    We walked through both of these areas today. We ended up in Kennedy Park (named after JFK) next to the gorgeous church (cathedral??). It was FULL of people, just PACKED. Like an event going on, but I guess it's like this every weekend. Music, tons of teens, tons of young people, families, everyone. And CATS. Lots of cats. Very fun vibe, we hated to leave!

    For once the kids were glad that I was overly friendly with strangers and chatted with a guy who ended up recommending a taxi instead of the bus (one of the boys in particular was NOT impressed with the bus - PACKED, and speeding like crazy). They all talked me into it when Emmett pointed out it was only about $2 more than the bus. So....they should learn that's why you DO talk to strangers. Taxi instead of bus. The nice guy called it up on his app (we don't have internet and are relying on wifi).
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  • Lima - hostel, demonstrations, roads

    May 28, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I'm sitting in our hostel now, feeling the thumping music coming from the bar (I might be the oldest guest here). 12 beds in our dorm. Early 19th C former mansion, French architecture (somehow Eiffel was involved). It's glory days are LONG gone, but I think it's pretty cool. Met some very interesting people so far. English kid who registered for university last fall, but they have way too many students sign up, so they offered 5,000 pounds to anyone who would defer for a year! He took it and is spending 5 months travelling South America. He had some crazy stories (he only told his parents parts of them!).

    Driving here is NUTS!!! Taxi drivers take naps at red lights, ours was playing games on his phone, and I can't believe we haven't seen an accident yet. All kinds of random vehicles in this traffic.

    Maintenance....everything is under maintenance, from the kitchen or bar here (depending on time of day) to what seems like most of the roads and sidwalks in the city center, to the toilet in a store we visited. In that case we were told there was no water, so we could only use it "ordinario". We didn't understand that, but we did understand "pee-pee". We agreed and complied.
    There were so many demonstrations, and yesterday the police wouldn't let us cross the main square. Not sure what about...veteran benefits? It didn't feel at all dangerous, our tour guide took us right through there (unconcerned, said no problema), police were very chill (although many had shields) and friendly.

    We stayed close to the city center, which is not as nice as Miraflores where all the tourists seem to go...but I'm so glad we did. We can walk to the Plaza Mayor which is full of cool stuff. Presidential Palace with changing of the guard, the Cathedral and archbishop's home, and so many amazing churches/monesteries/catacombs. We took a walking tour our first day and that was great.
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  • Lima Cathedral

    May 28, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Magnificent. There are many crypts (we had to crawl in to see them). A big museum with gorgeous bishops vestments with gold thread from the 17th century, so many massive paintings, very elaborate nativity scenes ( apparently the artists envisioned the Holy Family in more than a humble inn/manager), beautiful monstrances, and other gorgeous figures and art.

    Francisco Pizarro is buried in the largest, fanciest crypt/altar area when you first come in. From what our tour guide said, the Peruvians credit him with many of the beautiful buildings in Lima.

    Underneath the altar were crypts we could walk through (nice, open, white and well-let). I think it was archbishops, and maybe also wealthy families. The were a couple that died in the past 10-20 years. Also we could see baby coffins, and a display of femurs and skulls behind glass.

    I loved the feel of this place...not old and gloomy. Our guide told us most Catholics in Peru attend weekly Mass. In almost every church we were in on Friday at random times during the day there was Mass going on!
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  • Paracas & Huacachina (desert oasis)

    May 30, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Huachina - a REAL desert oasis! It's kind of crazy. I feel like I'm on Gilligan's Island. There is a very small lake surrounded by palm trees and ringed by restaurants. Our hostel has a great restaurant with a nice view. So pretty and romantic at night, not many people around this time of year.

    So we rode the dune buggies. The boys will not agree with me, but those suckers are NOT safe, omg. It was fun, but pretty scary. The seatbelt was an over-the-shoulders deal, but was meant for someone twice my size, so I spent the time holding it tight. Oh my WORD it was terrifying, going near the edges of steep drop-offs, etc. But the sunset up there was beautiful,

    Paracas is a little fishing town/resort. We just chilled and relaxed there, which was nice. Dinner on the boardwalk at a restaurant owned by Chinese people whose Spanish was not much better than ours, which made for interesting communication. We had fish, and once again it was great! Our hostel was open to the sky in the main sitting areas - seems to be the general thing here. I guess it almost never rains. We went to the Paracas National Reserve where it rains for 20 minutes once/year.
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  • Arequipa - Monastery of Santa Catalina

    June 1, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    What a gorgeous place! It’s 20K sq meters, a city within a city with street names. Founded 1580 by a wealthy widow, the 2nd daughters of wealthy Spanish families were sent here and paid a dowry. Housed 500 people, 1/3 nuns, the rest servants and orphans. We saw kitchens, gardens, chapels, living areas. I kept getting lost! Nuns lived here until the 1960s without running water or electricity and then built new accommodations next door.Read more

  • Arequipa - Flying Dog Hostel & few spots

    June 1, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Arequipa is beautiful - might be our favorite spot so far. Known as the White City for it's baroque buildings of white volcanic stone built during the colonial era. It's the perfect size - not huge, but plenty of action and beauty. But I don't feel like I'm going to die in traffic here!Read more

  • Arequipa Cathedral

    June 2, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    It’s overwhelming how many Catholic churches there are here, each one more beautiful than the next. But this cathedral stood out for me – I love it! It’s on the Plaza de Armas. We learned that all the main squares in every Peruvian city are called this (Weapons Square), named by Spanish conquistadores and designed in standard military fashion, surrounded by important government buildings and churches. In case of attack upon the city, arms would be supplied to defenders in this area. There have been many protests, celebrations (including military) in every Plaza de Armas we’ve seen.Read more

  • Arequipa -market, San Lazaro, Yuanahuara

    June 2, 2022 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 39 °F

    The San Camilo market was interesting! Sheep head, no thanks. Our last night here the boys didn't feel like more walking, so I went out for a long walk across the river to Mirador de Yuanahuara, a plaza with palm trees and that sits high up overlooking the city and has a gorgeous view at sunset of Misti the volcano (that you view through a beautiful wall of arches). The walk back to the hostel was spectcular, with the city lit up under a pink sky. I wished the boys had been with me!Read more

  • Peru Hop bus to & arrival in Cusco

    June 3, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    14,850 ft. altitude pit stop at Mirador Lagunillas. There were women selling items, and I have no idea how they even got there (walked over the mountain??). Interesting seeing the country (LONG bus ride). Beautiful landscape (reminded me of Scottish Highlands), but I was shocked at the poverty everywhere. And no trees at all in many parts. I'm not sure what they do to survive, but in a few lower elevation areas we saw families farming.

    We did a guided walking tour our first day in Custco.
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  • Cusco - Incan capital

    June 4, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    The Incan walls and roads are still here! When the Spanish Conquistadors arrived in 1533, it was a work in progress so much of it was left unfinished. It’s really cool to see these massive stone walls where they used NO mortar, and they are so snug that I can’t even slip my credit card in between them. The walls are the outsides of buildings and they angle slightly out from the street and in towards the building to give more stability to protect them from earthquakes.Read more

  • Cusco - La Gente (the people)

    June 5, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    The month of June celebrates Cusco with huge celebrations at the Cathedral, in Plaza de Armas...pretty much every day. And LOUD parties with drums and singing every night. Due to the mountains, there is quite an acoustic effect that I really appreciated... on the first night. Oh my word I think I know all those sings by heart nowRead more

  • Cusco - Streets of San Blas

    June 8, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    The San Blas neighborhood is defined by it's colorful narrow streets and alleyways, flowers, cool bars, cafes, restaurants. It's pretty quiet and laid back and is so fun to walk through. Our apartment was in this area, although a few blocks from the nicest partsRead more

  • Cusco - Sacsayhuaman Ruins

    June 10, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Incan fortress/citadel built in the 15th C with HUGE stones. WAY up above Cusco, overlooking the city. Very impressive when you think what it took to move the stones way up there. Pachacuti "ordered 20,000 men sent in from the provinces" and that "4000 of them quarried and cut the stones; 6000 hauled them with great cables of leather and hemp; the others dug the dig and laid the foundations, while still others cut poles and beams for the timbers." The large plaza, capable of holding thousands of people, was designed for communal ceremonial activities. The stones used in the construction of these terraces are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic America. In some spaces you can't even fit a sheet of paper between them. It was a fortress in 1533 during the Spanish conquest.Read more

  • Chinchero - Homestay with Ruth

    June 11, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    We spent 2+ wonderful days here with a family of traditional weavers...not enough time! Ruth's family made us feel at home, the food was great, and many cool things to see in area. 3,762m/12,342ft elevation. Below freezing at night, no heat! But the beds very cozy.Read more

  • Chinchero Market

    June 12, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Marianela took us to the Sunday market with her daughter, Emilia. She brought potatoes to trade with women who had driven 6 hours from the jungle (they had fruits). It was a lot of fun, clean and beautiful. Emilia is not yet 4, but her mom sent her off to buy another bag to carry more produce, and she also sent her off to buy some yogurt. It was impressive and adorable! She also paid for the medicinal grass her mom bought. This isn't the biggest market we've been to, but it's the one I enjoyed the most (because it was great to go with the family!).Read more

  • Salineras de Maras, Moray, Chinch. Ruins

    June 13, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    Jose the taxi driver gave us a great deal (cheap!) and drove us to the Maras Salt Mines and the archaeological site at Moray (and agreed to wait in the car for up to an hour at each). He definitely took "the back way", which meant DIRT roads full of rocks. But I appreciated that he went along with my "despacio" request (most drivers are into going rapido). Dust was flying up through the floorboards, and I wondered if his car could take/make it. I have to admit a thought about Tuco's place from Breaking Bad did cross my mind. Middle of freaking nowhere, and no idea what we'd have done if the car broke down (or apart). But luckily it DID make it and we had a great day and a nice chat with Jose. Thank you Jose!

    The Salineras de Maras is made up of more than 3 thousand natural salt wells near the town of Maras. Each of the wells has a dimension of 5 square meters. The 3,000 pools are fed by an underground hypersaline spring that originated 110 million years ago during the formation of the Andes Mountains. It was cool to watch a family excavating theirs. The salt is sold everywhere - some of it is pink.

    The Moray Incan ruins looks like a Roman amphitheater with it's bowl-shape and concentric terraces. It is thought that this was an agricultural laboratory used by the Incans.
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  • Urubamba - Andean Community Llama Trek

    June 14, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Trekking with Llamas to a high Andean community for lunch was a once-in-a-lifetime experience (and it kicked my butt!). We hiked from 3,291m to over 3,900m (10,800' to 13,000') to the small Andean community of Cancha Cancha. It took us 3 hours up (which our guide said was fairly quick YAY) and maybe half that down.

    We went with the Llama Pack Project (me and the boys, our guide and two llama herders). "Llama Pack Project works to recover traditional uses and breeding of carrier llamas as a tool for sustainable rural development and conservation of Andean mountain ecosystems in the Sacred Valley of the Incas highlands."

    Two llama herders from the community, Julian and Hilda, hiked up with us and then prepared us lunch in their home. Their home had no windows, a kitchen at one end and two VERY primitive beds at the other (I didn't even realize they were beds).They just got electricity 3 years ago. About 30 guinea pigs squealing and running underfoot as we ate our snack, which was a bit unnerving. They served us very good slightly sweet hot cocoa leaf tea, a sweet bread (similar to a quick bread we'd make), Chips Ahoy knock-off!, and a typical snack of toasted corn with salt. Very good.

    After that we sat out in the yard in the sun while they prepared the meal. They made a fire under a little hut of stones and let it burn out so that hot coals were left. Into that they threw potatoes, then collapsed the hut a little and put corn into it. They wrapped chicken in paper, set it on top, piled some hot stones on top and covered the whole thing with dirt. Let it cook for about 20 minutes. SO GOOD. It was such a cool experience.
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  • Ollantaytambo - Town, Mama Simona B&B

    June 15, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Ollantaytambo is a cool little town in a valley surrounded by very impressive Incan ruins on the mountainsides. The Incan Old Town is pedestrian only with narrow cobblestone streets that twist and turn, with little shops and hotels and mini- markets. I wish we'd had more time in this peaceful, relaxing place.

    We loved Mama Simona B & B. It was a beautiful place next to the river, very clean, nice breakfast, laundry service, very hot showers (best in Peru so far), and they even had a hair dryer to loan out. First time I've dried my hair in 3 weeks. Only bad part was the barnyard party going on all night. ( Donkey was the main culprit).
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  • Ollantaytambo - Inca temple and fortress

    June 16, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We were not prepared for how many well-preserved Incan ruins are in the Sacred Valley. Apparently this is the second best preserved, and it's a huge complex ( and has all these Inca stairs I no longer enjoy! 🤣). This is a really cool spot, overlooking the Old Town ( Inca pedestrian streets, cool roads and walls).Read more

  • Inca Trail - Trek to Machu Picchu

    June 17, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    We did the "2 Day/1 Night with hotel" trek. Which really was a full day trekking, saw MP in the afternoon, stayed in hotel and went back to see again next morning. These photos are of the trek and our arrival to the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu. The ruins in the first photos are not Machu Picchu, but other ruins along the way. Couple of MP photos at the end when we arrived! We had a guide with us who was very knowledgeable about Incan history and ruins, but also told us all about recent Peruvian history. There was no one else in the group except us. We went with Alpaca Expeditions, and at lunch they cooked us a meal. This was not an easy hike with all the DANG Incan Stairs! The Monkey Stairs were something else!Read more

  • Machu Picchu!

    June 18, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    This was "Day 2" of our Inca Trail Trek. So we arrived at the Sun Gate overlooking MP on Day 1 but couldn't enter. We took a bus down to the town of Aguas Caliente to stay the night. Next AM early we came back up for a tour with Luis and were there a couple of hours or so. Beautiful weather! Of course it goes without saying, very impressive place! I think the thing that is most spectacular isn't really the ruins (although yes they are, but we've seen a lot of very cool Incan ruins) but the location. It is just beyond me how/why anyone would ever build in such a remote and difficult location. Apparently the common folk had to come work here on the agricultural terraces (a few weeks or months/year??) as a way of paying taxes to the empire. They had a school for boys here as well as homes, grain storage and the sun temple.Read more