Asia and Australia 2017

February - April 2017
A 77-day adventure by Coxlers On Tour Read more
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  • Day 11

    Day 11 - Thai Farm Cookery School

    February 18, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Top of my list of things to do pre-trip was cookery classes. I told Matt I'd do them alone if he wasn't keen but that I was doing them regardless. Luckily the taste for cooking he's developed recently (ha!) meant he was keen (hmm) to come along.

    After literally hours of research for Chiang Mai cookery schools I chose the Thai Farm Cookery School. Our guide/teacher Garnet met us at our guest house and this started the most hilarious day I've had in ages. Garnet was beyond funny from start to finish, from shouting 'hashtag cook like a boss' in the market to showing us 'sexxxxxxy' ways to chop vegetables and doing terrible English accent impressions I hardly stopped laughing. First stop for our group of 9 (hailing from Germany, India, USA and Iceland) was a local market where Garnet showed us/explained to us different curry pastes, rice types, sauces and coconut products. We could then wander around looking at the beautiful arrays of fruit and veg and the beautiful in their own way pigs heads.

    We jumped back in the mini bus and headed to the cookery school. It's on a 2.5 acre organic farm and lots of the ingredients are grown on site. Our classroom had just 2 walls so it wasn't too stuffy whilst we were cooking in front of the farm views. Wearing hats clearly given for comedy value we did a mini farm tour tasting and smelling herbs like garlic chives and Thai basil whilst learning how they're grown - I'm definitely chucking some garlic cloves into my garden to get garlic chives but reckon I wouldn't have the same luck with growing a kaffir lime tree. We then headed back in to make our chosen colour of curry paste. Matt chose (well I chose for him) green and I chose yellow. Lots of pestle-ing later we had 'Whoooooooo PERFECT! Sexy!' curry pastes.

    Next stop was making soups. Before each dish (we made 5 today) we sat around an outside table and went through the ingredients, being shown how to prep them and then trying to memory game it back at our stations (with some help). I learnt that I'm a 1 chilli girl when it comes to Thai food but even then the Tom Yum soup I made was good, if I do say so myself. (Open invitation for any loyal readers to request I attempt it at home for you when I'm back)

    After Tom Yum came Pad Thai. I've made several Pad Thais over the years at home but it seems I'm not exactly making it in the 'genuine way'. This was proper Thai fast food and with hardly any prep and a couple of minutes cooking we were done. The hardest part in the UK will probably be finding tamarind, Thai basil and fresh galangal in Tesco! I felt full after the soup so switching to playing the long game and only ate half of mine, plus a small helping of the papaya salad Garnet made for us.

    Next up was our Thai curries using the paste we made. Again super easy and apparently we let Thai curry cook for way too long in the UK. This accompanied Thai chicken and basil, another stir fry dish which involved trying to get flames in your pan. Matt was a pro at this but I'd miss my eyebrows so focused on garnishing instead.

    Last up was dessert. We made bananas in coconut milk, though a bit more pimped up with pandan, palm sugar, sesame seeds, dried mung beans and an orchid flower garnish. Somehow I found room to eat it and get back on the bus.

    I also found room to eat about an eighth of a hundred year old egg. Not really 100 years old but eggs preserved in saline for a month until they turn black and jelly like inside. They look horrific and don't taste that great either hence the eighth. It's no delicious pickled egg.

    We spent the evening with the family who run the hostel plus some of the other guests. The family put on a BBQ but I wasn't exactly in the mood for eating. Hello bloat. It was a really nice evening to end another superb day. I don't want to leave Chiang Mai but sadly we will tomorrow for Chiang Rai and closer to the Laos border.
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  • Day 12

    Day 12 - Matt Gets Beaten Up By A Girl

    February 19, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Thailand has its fair share of unusual sights. Today we tried to tick off one of the Chiang Mai bucket list points of getting massage in a women's prison where they train soon to be released inmates to be masseurs so they can get a job when they are freed. Sadly despite getting there early they were booked beyond our departure bus time so we were directed to the ex-inmate massage centre round the corner. We had breakfast first with our new found friends Teresa and Rob and booked in for an hour Thai massage. We were sent to change into lovely burgundy scrubs (easier to navigate than the black pants once I got a set that wasn't 2 pairs of trousers) and laid in a communal massage room. A slightly different experience to our Bangkok essential oils and soothing music massage from last week. I think I got lucky and although my masseuse was hard on me Matt got one of the stronger ladies who gave him a bit of a beating - I couldn't possibly speculate what crime she might have committed before her prison training. I still can't not giggle when my feet are touched and at one point thought she was going to detach a limb but it was amazing, and for about £5!

    After that we checked out and said goodbye to out lovely guest house hosts Paul, Ay, Ta and Freya. (Oh I forgot Paul kindly took Matt on the back of his moped to get our bus tickets this morning, I did not volunteer for that). We caught the 3 hour bus to Chiang Rai. The bus was fine and I caught up on my sleep and podcasts but beyond that it's been a fairly quiet day. We're in a guest house which actually has a shower area as opposed to a wet room which is a nice change though still a lack of wall hooks - I wouldn't have thought I'd miss hanging things up so much.

    We went to the night bazaar where I bought some hippy trousers and found a source of wine which was neither stupidly expensive or mixed with fruit juice - oh happiness! We watched some traditional Thai acts, well some dancing, instrument playing and a guy singing Elvis covers whilst eating dinner and figuring out the next few days.
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  • Day 13

    Day 13 - The White Temple

    February 20, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After a good night's sleep we got up semi-early (7am) as we're getting the hang of of dodging the bigger crowds at popular temples. We caught the bus to Chiang Rai's biggest draw, the White Temple. The bus itself was a fun experience with electric fans attached to the ceiling to act as air con, the doors being left open throughout and half the bus being filled with luggage.

    The White Temple is unlike any other in Thailand. As the name suggests, it's almost all white. Apart from the gold toilet block which is, you've guessed it, gold. It's also pretty creepy and I'm sure JK Rowling must have visited before she wrote The Deathly Hallows as there were a lot of creepy reaching hands etc. There were demon monuments showing that whisky and cigarettes are bad, skulls and scary heads all over the show and ghoulish guards which was a contrast to the temple which a Disney princess could have lived in. We wandered around for the requisite temple admiring time before an Ovaltine pit stop for me, and Matt's seemingly 7th coffee of the day. We checked out the free gallery of the temple designer's other artistic work which was phenomenally varied from satire of George Bush and Bin Laden on a rocket together entitled 'Love' to a black and white sketch of York. Then we experience true Chiang Rai life with a squished in journey in a blue Songthaew. It's like an open backed van with benches down either side that comfortably fits 8 but uncomfortably fits 12 which is the most common number to fill it with. Always nice to be sweatily attached to a stranger.

    We grabbed lunch at Hungry Wolf's. I chose it because the owner is super sassy to bad trip advisor reviewers, not that there was many of them. We had huge burgers and milkshakes so look forward to seeing me twice the size when I'm home. After that we caught the bus to Chiang Khong. It was like the temple bus except with even more people and packages and took 2 hours. Luckily we got 2 of the back seats behind the luggage so actually a bit more room and the breeze from the back door in our faces. I get on fine as I'm quite short but Matt finds these rides tougher.

    Chiang Khong is very small and laid back. It's a town where people come to spend one night before crossing the border to Laos (which we're going tomorrow). I really like it. The guest house owners are beyond friendly and we have a balcony with a gorgeous Mekong river view. We took a walk down the river and had a random but delicious Mexican meal (it's not been an authentic food day).

    New country tomorrow, Laos. As long as we get through immigration 🙂
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  • Day 14

    Day 14 - Slow Boating Down The Mekong

    February 21, 2017 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We had the warmest goodbye from the Day Waterfront Guest House in Chiang Khong which involved the couple who owned it forcing bananas on us for our journey and waving away our tuk tuk to the port like family members.

    Leaving Thailand and entering Laos is a mix of straightforward and faffy. You do Thai immigration, buy a bus ticket where the price is based on an eye ball of how big your luggage is, bus to Laos immigration which involves your passport disappearing through one window and reappearing 20 minutes later through another after dollars have exchanged hands. Then another tuk tuk to the slow boat which will carry us over the next 2 days from Houey Xay to Luang Prabang. Today was the Houey Xay to Pak Bang leg. Our tour guide is Mr Wong. His English is...ok. But he does use about 10 sentences of ramble where 2 would do which makes for some confusion. And says 'same same but different' a lot.

    There were about 30 of us on a long boat that's for a max of 40. Seeing as I'm anti social and don't like forced chat with strangers, especially for a whole day, I was delighted I managed to look surly enough to put anyone else off sitting in our booth. See photos for a pic of the boat but there are central booths, a seating area at the back and a flat you can sit on at the front. The scenery was stunning the whole journey passing lots of other boats, fishermen, cows etc and I was very happy catching up with my book/napping in between staring off the sides.

    We stopped at a local village on the way to Pak Beng. To be honest I didn't like it. The village was obviously not rich and the company give 2% of profits to the village in the form of clothes and school equipment so they gain in a way from it but it felt very voyeuristic. It was like going to a zoo but the exhibits were people. There were 2 boat tours visiting this small village at once, and I imagine others come every day, and the villagers didn't look thrilled as some of our group were leaning on their houses and taking close up pictures of their children. It was interesting to see another life less financially privileged but just made me unhappy that it has to be this way. A bit dose of perspective.

    After that we got back on the boat and had lunch which was very food considering it's mass catering on a boat. I then had a nice nap but realised I should probably go sit at the front and appreciate the view. Matt was already there with a beer in hand. We travelled till about 4.30 and after some more Mr Wong confusing rambles we got to the right hotel. And we even eventually got to the right room after assuming a key with 1 and 0 on it meant room 10, which was actually already occupied, not room 1 which was our actual room. Silly us. It's an interesting room. Dark wood walls and our first mosquito nets of the trip but also the first hot shower. The view from the balcony is awesome across the Mekong. We went to the bar next door for a pre dinner beer. I think it might have actually been someone's house that they've stuck some tables in and laminated a menu. We saw an elephant though on the opposite bank as the sun set and beer is about a £1 for a mega bottle so we'll take it. Dinner was a random set menu at the hotel included with the room which we ate on a forced shared table with a couple from Halifax but I survived.

    Another day on the boat tomorrow. If we make good time we can make a stop in whisky town. Whoop whoop!
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  • Day 15

    Day 15 - I Heart LP (They Have Wine)

    February 22, 2017 in Laos ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    A short entry today seeing as I spent a large chunk of the day on the boat.

    After a restless night where I kept waking up in a panic that I'd missed the slow boat we actually did wake up on time and catch our prompt 7.45am departure towards Luang Prabang. It was really cold on the boat but luckily Mr Wong had blankets and was full of bants about us being so drunk we thought a 1 was a 10 on our room key yesterday. Hilarious. Most of the morning was spent reading and watching downloaded Netflix trash (basically my life at home) whilst waiting for lunch. The scenery was equally beautiful to yesterday once the fog cleared and I tried to spend as much of the afternoon as I could sitting on the front.

    First stop on the boat was to the Pak Ou caves. Basically caves with thousands of Buddha statues in them and impressive. You needed a torch for the top caves which were up 226 steps and pitch black inside. Second stop was to 'whisky village' where they making 15% and 50% rice wine and sell to tourists. Obvs we bought some plus I finally graduated to the travellers uniform of elephant trousers. As unstylish as they are comfortable.

    At about half 4 we made in to Luang Prabang and said goodbye to Mr Wong. Our guest house welcomed us with a strange drink and fruit platter before we walked into town. First impressions - I love Luang Prabang. It's small and laid back. There's a night market selling more clothes and trinkets where I could easily buy everything plus a cooked food market sent from heaven which I fully intend to gorge on for the next few days. Here's buffet stalls! And there's wine and it was on happy hour 😍 We did food like locals (/travellers who want to pretend to be locals) sitting at a street food noodle stall with baskets of herbs as condiments and had more beer before calling it an early one in prep for our next few days here. I think I'm going to like it here.
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  • Day 16

    Day 16 - £1 Cocktails

    February 23, 2017 in Laos ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We started the day fairly lazily with breakfast and more magically appearing fruit at the guest house before venturing into our first day of Luang Prabang proper. We started with the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre where we learnt about some of the diffident cultural groups in Laos with a focus on their clothing. There was a whole room about beads and a corner, possibly intended for children, where you could try on outfits.

    Matt then went for a massage to try and recover from his ex-prisoner massage. I meanwhile sat in a hammock drinking juice. It's so hot in LP (about 34degrees) so I'm a mega sweaty mess and was grateful for an air conditioned lunch. I must find a recipe for Larb (also known as Larp) when I get home. It's a delicious minced chicken dish with lots of fresh herbs.

    After a brownie pitstop we went to the UXO Lao centre. UXO stands for Unexploded Ordnance. During the early to mid 20th century Laos was the most heavily bombed country per capita due to its proximity with Vietnam. About a third of the bombs (80million) didn't explode and every day they're found by people, especially children, across Laos causing fatally and injury. It was a very sobering exhibit and extremely sad.

    We came back to the guest house for some more trip planning then ventured out to the food part of the market. It's very hectic but we managed to muscle our way to pork dumplings, spring rolls and skewers of BBQ sausage and chicken. The chicken especially was exceptional. We'll be back every night!

    We'll also probably be back at Lao Lao Garden most nights. After a detour for happy hour wine we came to LLG on a recommendation of a friend. Local spirit cocktails are 2-4-20k Kip (about £2) and several 'welcome shots' were thrown in. We've made it home pre-local curfew (11.30pm) as we have another cooking class tomorrow (Matt is thrilled) but I'm sure we'll be back there.
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  • Day 17

    Day 17 - Jeow and Laap

    February 24, 2017 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Another country, another cooking class Matt's dragged along to. Today our Laos cuisine class was with the Tamarind Cookery school. As it seems is standard for these now (well 2 for 2 so far) first stop was a trip to a local food market. Laos cuisine is pretty different from Thai food, mostly in the range of ingredients used. In Laos there's a huge emphasis on herbs - mint, coriander and dill all feature heavily. It's very much a food culture of nothing being wasted, including the blood and bile. Yummy. They'll also eat anything, there were stalls selling squirrel, rats and bats (not part of our cookery experience today though). Laos is land locked and it's only in living memory that a lot of the road connections with its neighbour's were made so there's a lot of self sufficiency.

    Our guide today was Sit. He was good fun and clearly very keen to improve his already pretty decent English. After the market we went to the pretty Tamarind cooking pavilion. Today was slightly different than our Thai equivalent class as we only ate once really rather than in between courses. They also served us booze mid (morning) class. First up we made jeow, a spicy dipping sauce. I made an aubergine one and Matt tomato. Most of the dishes today involved doing some aspect over hot coals, for this one it was scorching the ingredient skins. You can eat jeow with anything but it's popular with sticky rice at breakfast and I'll definitely be making it at home.

    Round 2 was making a fish parcel. We pummelled herbs, garlic and chilli in a pestle and mortar to make a paste which we marinated our fish in before making a banana leaf parcel - Sit made it look easier than it was but we made a valiant effort. This went into the fire whilst we made chicken stuffed lemongrass. Yes that is the right way round, we stuffed chicken into lemongrass. It involved careful, patient cutting of the lemongrass into a lantern style so obviously not my forte but we got there in the end. We dipped it into egg and deep fried it over the fire.

    Last savoury dish was Laap (or Larp, or Larb) which yesterday I said I wanted to learn to make. We did the beef version, with an option to add bile to make it bitter. I declined. It was very easy to make so it'll be coming to a UK BBQ soon. We sat down together to eat it all and get over-full before making a black sticky rice dessert with fruit. Very straight forward and somehow managed to eat it before rolling home.

    Afternoons are unbearably hot here for two pasty northerners so we sat in the air con for a few hours before wandering out along the Mekong river as finding a bar to drink mojitos as the sun went down. We did a mini bar crawl along the river, briefly stopping and quickly leaving a bar where the fly covered toilet was off the kitchen and you washed your hands in the kitchen sink. We went back to the food market for more BBQ chicken and papaya salad before calling it a night as we want an early start at Kuang Si waterfalls tomorrow.
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  • Day 18

    Day 18 - Do go chasing waterfalls

    February 25, 2017 in Laos ⋅ 🌙 -8 °C

    Apologies to Helen’s legion of followers but it's Matt doing the blog today. Thought it's about time I had a go and also to prove I'm still here and that Helen didn't leave me on the slow boat so she could spend all our money on cooking classes and the rest of her time geocaching.

    So today we went to the famous (ish) Kuang Si Falls. It's towards the top of any Luang Prabang to do list and we decided to employ our usual strategy of getting up a bit earlier to try and beat the crowds. Meant we were up at 7 and out the door not long after to try and negotiate a Tuk Tuk to take us up there. It's about a 40 min drive away. Safe to say neither of us will be getting the call to lead the Brexit negotiations any time soon and after some half arsed bartering I realised we were arguing over about 2 quid extra so the deal was done. We'd agreed a price (220k Kip which is about £22, everytime you go to the ATM here you're a millionaire) for the driver to take us up there and then wait for about 5 hrs to take us back. We'd paid a bit more so we had the Tuk Tuk to ourselves and weren't relying on other people holding us up but more on that later.

    Anyway after a typically bumpy (and speedy) drive up there we arrived about 8.30. You pay around £2 each to get in and randomly the first thing you see is a bear sanctuary where a number of bears have been rescued from poachers (their stomach bile is valuable in Chinese medicine apparently). There were loads of them just lying about and chilling out, they all looked very calm which was good as at least one of the fences looked very jumpable if they'd put their minds to it.

    The falls itself are over three levels and were absolutely beautiful. I'll put a few more pics on FB but they really don't do it justice. The pools on the first couple of levels are the best for swimming in and getting up early paid off as we were able to to swim about with only a handful of other people about. The water is the turquoise colour due to the water running over limestone. It was very clear and no nasties in there apart from a few little fish swimming about, meant you could get a free fish spa if you stood still long enough (we didn't).

    After spoiling a recently arrived tour parties perfect pictures by swimming in front of the waterfall for a while it was up to the next level. More of the same but less chance for swimming. Once you reach the third level you can trek up to the top of the fall itself which we did. Bit steep at times but worth it, there was another pool with a swing over it as well as a great view down the main fall itself. Glad we swam in the water before seeing what colour it is before the limestone gets involved.

    After a quick rest we decided to hike further up to the spring and cave right at the top. It was about 3km and hilly but again definitely worth it. There was a ‘restaurant’ at the spring which was basically a BBQ and a hut. Food was very good though, (the street food in Laos has been brilliant so far). There was another pool to swim in and unfortunately a rope swing and long log covering the pool that you could try and walk over. Obviously I tried both with Helen (quite sensibly) trying neither. Firstly I swung out on the rope planning to let go at the top of the arc and drop in to the cool water below. Got the angle all wrong and if I'd let go would have dropped on the long log so had to hold on and swing back to the bank where I bumped in to a tree while a French family and the guys working on the BBQ looked on, smooth. Undeterred I tried to walk across the log, twice, and got about a quarter of the way both times before falling in. By this point Helen had had enough and had gone to look at some butterflies.

    We then went a bit further up to the Hermit cave. They're very keen on putting buddha statues in pitch black caves in this part of the world and this was more of the same. You hired a flashlight before you went in and it was very dark and a bit creepy and then the flash light reflected on the bald head of meditating monk, momentary panic followed in case we disturbed him or Helen bumped him but turned out it was another of the weird wax works of long deceased monks. We didn't stay long after that.

    We smugly hiked right back down to where we started (we covered 12k in total today and the equivalent of 68 flights up). Smugly as it was very busy and the pool we'd had virtually to ourselves was packed. We then made a quick stop at the butterfly park near the entrance to the falls. It's ran by a Dutch couple, it was quite good but got us thinking what prompts you so say ‘I'm moving to Laos to open a butterfly park’. Anyway it was back to the Tuk Tuk rendezvous point where our driver was playing cards with his mates and told us he was waiting for some other customers before we could set off, turns out he'd dropped us off and hot footed it back to town to charge another group for the exclusive use of his Tuk Tuk. Shouldn't be surprised and wouldn't have mattered if some of the other group hadn't gone AWOL. After sitting in the back of the Tuk Tuk in 35 degree heat for half an hour the driver came back and said we'd have to go back with his mate in another Tuk Tuk with six other people but still wanted the full fare. We managed to get a bit of a discount but we're hot and hungry so in we got. To be fair had we not set off then we'd have missed what was honestly a boy no older than ten driving a truck loaded up with the local beer, Beerlao! Quite a sight.

    We picked up some food and then had our now customary couple of hours back in the room with the air con. After eating a lot of street food recently we decided to eat out proper and Helen found a tapas place that did a mixture of Laos and international food. It was delicious, one of the best places we've eaten so far. After that it was back home early as per.

    We're huge fans of Laos and Luang Prabang in particular. It's such a nice place and so relaxed, we’ll be sad to leave. Close run thing between here and Chiang Mai for my favourite place so far. Last full day in LP tomorrow before we fly to Vientiane Monday and then on to Hanoi on Tuesday.

    We've had some more laundry done and they must wash it on 90 degrees as everything is getting smaller but my waistline is also undoubtedly getting bigger. We have over eight weeks left and if both these trends continue worried I'll have to replace everything with the elasticated hippy pants (usually with elephants on) that are so popular with the many gap year types we've seen.

    Anyway enough of my ramblings, normal service will be resumed tomorrow with Helen back to tell you about our rice farm experience day.
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  • Day 19

    Day 19 - Rice is Life

    February 26, 2017 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I'm back! Don't worry, there may have been some speculation that Matt had sold me for Beer Lao and taken over but it was unfounded. I'm sure he'll be back to guest edit again soon - or he'll start a rival blog...

    Today we went to the Living Land experience to learn how to be rice farmers. A tuk tuk came to get us at 8am and after a bumpy 15 minutes we arrived and were given hats to wear - the hats were probably the most painful bit of the whole affair. Our guide today was La, a funny and kind guy who has been at Living Land farm for 6 years. The rice growing part of the farm is only run for food to support the 7 families who co-work it, the rice isn't sold on. As Lao people eat a lot of rice (every meal) the production is still large. The profits from the tour days helps to cover the costs of teaching 75 children in the local area English and about nature for free.

    Before we went through the 14 stages of sticky rice production we learnt some other important skills. First up was weaving. On the farm this is done to make baskets etc but we weaved something that was supposed to be resemble a donkey. Mine was mostly done by the expert weaver helping with the session. He couldn't speak English and I can't speak Lao but laughter is universal so I understood what he thought of my weaving skills. (He was a retired farmer who found retirement boring so came back to teach idiots like me to weave. I didn't get that from his laughter code, La told us. Though he didn't call me an idiot) Next skill was blacksmithing to make tools, we were allowed to pump the fire but not to play with the hammer.

    Then it was on to the paddy fields.

    Step 1 - selecting the seeds
    Basically you put an egg in a barrel. It'll sink. Then you pour in salt till in floats, remove the egg (give it to grandma) and put the seeds in. The good seeds will sink, less good float. The bad ones are given to the animals and the good ones rinsed for...

    Step 2 - planting the seeds
    Time to get dirty! We got knee deep into the soft mud and water and prayed not to fall over. La told us about a woman who fell in and multiple staff members had to work together to pull her out. I didn't need that shame. Actually we ended up at this stage also harvesting the seedlings for step 4.

    Step 3 - ploughing the field
    The most comedy step - see photo. It involved getting back into the mud and holding the plough whilst Rudolf the water buffalo pulled the plough around. He understands 3 commands - go, stop and turn. Luckily La and another farmer were in with us to help with the instruction as I'm not entirely sure our variations on the work 'hey!' Were actually the go command. Every lap and person change Rudolf would start very slowly but when he knew he was towards the end would speed up. This coincided with when the ground got more uneven but luckily no muddy casualties.

    Step 4/5 - planting and watering the seedlings
    Our carefully pulled up seedlings needed to be separated and planted separately, again in the muddy water. It's a clever system where all the fields are height staggered and by digging or closing channels you can flow water from top to bottom. The top level is fed by a waterfall.

    Step 6 - harvesting
    When the leaves dry out and turn yellow it's time to go. Funnily enough they did not let us loose with sickles so this was an observing step. Unlike...

    Step 7/8 - thrashing and wafting
    Using nunchucks we whacked bundles of harvested crop against a wooden board so the rice grains fall out. Lots of grassy bits and debris fall into the rice pile to so you then waft them with a paddle to blow the loose bits from the pile and leave the heavier grains.

    Step 9 - packing and carrying
    We tried out 3 different ways to carrying the rice. Two baskets on a plank over your shoulder, on your back and with the strap around your forehead (wtf?!). We only tried with a little bit of rice but when full it'd be about 60kg and can be carried for hours!

    Step 10 - husking
    Using a big foot powered pestle and mortar the husks of the rice are removed. It takes about an hour to do a kilo of rice so everyone on the farm has strong legs!

    Step 11 - separating the husks and grains
    The husks and grains are put into a basket and you shake and toss the basket so the lighter husks fly off. Apparently it's a 'ladies' job' and if you're rubbish at it you'll never find a husband as it means you're lazy. Matt was rubbish at it so he'll never get a husband.

    Bonus Step 11B - grinding
    Some of the rice is ground to make rice flour for noodles etc. This is a 2 person job involved an arm powered grinder. Again it takes about an hour per kilo to get it fine enough so at least the strong legs are balanced by strong arms

    Step 12/13 - soaking and steaming
    The rice needs to be soaked for at least 3 hours to take out excess starch. It's then rinsed a few times before being put into one of the baskets the weavers make to steam over a fire.

    Step 14 - eating :)
    After a tour of the vegetable garden we ate an array of rice goodies. Sticky rice obviously, then lotus flowers and rolls made from rice flour and sweet rice cookies. All with a super spicy dip of course. We were really hungry by this point after our farmer pretence so the food didn't last long.

    All that was left was for us to get our certificates (Perfect for the CV) and catch our tuk tuk back.

    The rest of the day was spent eating, looking for somewhere to print our flight tickets for tomorrow, trying to find a working ATM (lucky number 7!) and me buying used napkins from a restaurant cause I liked the design. A 5am alarm tomorrow to go to Vientiane, the capital of Laos.
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  • Day 20

    Day 20 - Monster of Concrete

    February 27, 2017 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    A 5am wake up call to head to Luang Prabang airport. Matt began to get the stress shakes when he realised none of the coffee selling establishments were open at 5.50am when we arrived yet though his panic didn't last too long. Though the souvenir gift stands opened first. That's multiple stands, for a small airport where the man on security also directed us to our plane by vaguely pointing to 'the middle plane' before we wandered freely over the tarmac. I'm not sure his security skills were up to much either as I made the machine beep, took of my shoes, beeped again and he shrugged and let me go.

    A short flight mostly spent killed mosquitos with the in flight magazine and we landed in Vientiane. We've gone slightly more upmarket here and spent a whopping £35 on an actual hotel so we had a driver to pick us. Much appreciated to avoid the early morning tuk tuk bargaining and they let us check in early.

    We soon headed out though as what we've learnt about Laos is its unbearably hot after about 2pm. First stop was a cafe for a second breakfast (mmm croissants) then a general wander. Minor mishap in that someone tripped off a curb and hurt their ankle. And it wasn't me! It's not too bad he says, hobbling on. We went on regardless and walked through Chao Anouvong Park, named after the man of the same name in the statue that's there. We also saw a pick up truck drive past pumping out music with a big gold Buddha and a monk on the back - hastily taken picture in the photo section.

    We went round a couple of temples on the way back as it's been at least a week since we went in one. As they say frequently in Laos (it's even on t-shirts) 'Same Same but Different'. Though one temple was having the painted wall murals painstakingly restored which was interesting to watch. No photos allowed though to 'prevent thefts and schemes'.

    Next stop was lunch at a place called Noy's Fruit Heaven. We had lovely smoothies and pittas. There was however a very sad eyed dog watching us eat and breaking my heart. The guys who worked there obviously felt the same as they went and got him half a white baguette (that famous doggie treat). He turned his nose up at that but enjoyed a piece of mayonnaise covered chicken Matt dropped.

    Last stop before heading back to the hotel was the Patuxai which is a war memorial looking not unlike the Arc de Triomphe - ironic seeing as it's commemorate the war to get independence from French rule. The very honest signage calls it a 'monster of concrete'. I actually like the monster though and we climbed to the top for view over the city (after we passed the ton of souvenir stalls on the way up).

    Air con and pool time followed before heading out to dinner at 'Sticky Fingers'. Margaritas and surprisingly good bangers and mash were the order of the day. That and listening to the sound from across the street from a stall where you had to try and pop balloons with darts - tuneful. When the noise got too much we traipsed through the night market to look at all the knock off goods and found another bar which had reasonably priced red wine.
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