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Camino Frances
  • Hiker Holly
Sep – Oct 2024

Camino Frances

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  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    La Laguna OR Laguna de Castilla

    September 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We left early and saw the sunrise s as we walked for our early start as our 26+km walk was to be mostly straight up! We walked up the equivalent of 108 flights of stairs! The Empire State Bldg has 86 flights. I am feeling good about today! 👍
    At times, I was thinking WTF and at others we have walked worse! It was challenging. The scenary is gorgeous. Body parts felt worn. 😉.
    It was definitely a ‘don’t look up’ day. That is what Tammy and Nathalie taught me last Camino. When you are going UP it’s better to just look at where you are walking not where you are going. And this time, it was a very steep, UP 4km+ in an hour +. It’s best not to get disheartened. It’s best to just watch where your foot goes on the slippery mud, leaves and roots. Some folks are gazelles, I am more a horse and cart. I make it over this rough terrain, sturdy and constant, but ‘it ain’t pretty’. Hahaha
    We saw sheep being herded, In the road, Rush Hour traffic of sheep! 😉 The herding dogs ARE amazing! So fast and accurate! Watching the herder, listening to him’ bark’ orders to the dog. The sheep and the dog moving to an unknown destination, for me. ‘Not this road or trail’,, ‘this one!’ . ‘No turn left on this side road’. NO, not that one’. ‘The one one to the right’ .. Now sharp turn into the field. No not the that one,, ours. Ask with very few actual commands to the dog. It was amazing that the dog could’ communicate ask this to the sheep and FAST!
    We watched cattle being herded this late afternoon as 20 of us on either side of the road at chairs and at tables, all a part of this small Pueblo/village Alburgue/restaurant experience.
    The cattle trotted through the chairs and seats outside the Alburgue, Folks happily and abruptly vacated seats to accommodate, grabbing their drinks. Hahaha. The Albuquerque is there, but the cattle have been coming through longer. LOVE IT! Check the short video. I took a longer video but apparently I was so enthralled my screen fell to the road. Haha. This is Tammy’s clip. Thank you, Tammy!!
    As for our climb take a look at the elevation profile on the screen shot of our App. The first X on the lower left is the elevation where we started. The second X on the right is the elevation where we stopped for the night. Tomorrow we hit the top for sunrise and then go up and down until a BIG descent into where we stay tomorrow.
    We did see some amazing scenery but also walked near the road part of the way.
    As we climb in altitude the buildings begin to feel as if there is some alpine/what I would call Bavarian influence. I will take photos soon.
    Everything is so green and treed now it feels like hiking in the NW.
    Really sleepy. Big climb tomorrow then a big down.
    Hugs to all    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances
    2

    Triacastela

    September 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Good morning/ for us goodnight😃💖
    First a commentary: There are a few things you can count on a Camino, in my opinion- being hungry, thirsty and wonderfully tired.
    What we haven’t been able to count on this Camino is toilet seats, ( toilets, yes. seats, no.) paper towels and toilet paper. You usually get 2 out of three. Today we had all 3 at most of our breaks/stops. 🎉
    Also, with electricity very expensive lights in bathrooms are on a timer. After a few minutes they go off. One needs to wave a hand to activate the motion sensor. The first stop, today, the lights lasted about 10 seconds. I was waving my hand as if swatting a fly to activate the sensor every few seconds. This can be really difficult while laughing and trying to finish! 😂
    Back to this morning. We had a big climb this morning to a terrific sunrise! We had another very decent ‘Up’ then a bit of down then 2 more peaks or Altos. The equivalent of 68 flights of stairs. Then we went down, down, down! 4-6km into Triacastela.
    This morning we woke at 6:30am hit the 7am coffee and toast with tomatoes or marmalade ( I sub a banana and tea). I am still in the alternate milk products waste land. Dairy country, and that’s OK. 😉
    Continuing on, we had a very steep climb to O’Cabriero, a place with an amazing very old church. The story goes, the parish pries , in the 80’s (?) started painting the yellow arrows we all follow now ( avoiding old maid and getting lost on an 800km journey) and pushed for the stone markers.
    In the early 80’s in his old van starting in the Pyrenees, he started painting arrows. There priest came upon Basque separatists who were ‘squabbling’ at the time with the Guardia Civil ( local enforcement)- Basque feel they are occupied by Spain. To say the least the Basque were suspicious of a priest painting yellow arrows around the countryside.
    The priest explained he was planning ‘an invasion’! Sadly, this parish priest died in the late 1980’s, only to have seen a trickle of his invasion beginning. ❤️
    Today we walked by many very small chapels and old churches. I would never get to our destination if I took photos of all! I wish I could!💖
    The countryside in Galacia is amazing! So green. I could’ve taken hundreds of photos but decided to take most with my eyes.
    In the altitude even nap, the red X was this mornings start the far right hand side she’s the end village.
    We are showered, larder is done, we’ve been fed, and we ran into 2 different grips of Australians we’ve met, one Bavarian, the gal in the Lilac coat ( Asian?, very sweet!), and a few more, this evening.
    Ready for sleep it’s 9pm here and your noon.
    Hugs to all and much love!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Sarria,Spain

    September 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Another great green, no rain day!! Tammy was on fire today and I, due to trying some of the bread ( thinking it was low gluten a few days ago) was a bit achy and feeling slow. Combine that with the first rest stop being after a good ‘walk up’ ( we did the equivalent of 64 flights of stairs) at 11 km in,
    I was admiring the grand farm and house I was passing by, I totally missed the turn off. I walked about 3 blocks down a very steep road, all the while thinking,’. Ah, Yes, on to this first rest!!’ I then noticed the other pilgrims just a bit ahead weren’t visible.
    I heard a whistle for a dog. Once. Twice. ( there is no farm dog in this area of sheep and cattle country that needs more then one whistle!)
    Three times, the whistle!!
    OH, oh…that is another pigeon racing out!! …., let me check my App. Sure enough I took a left instead of a right at the nice farm house.
    After a ‘’lovely’ hike back up a steep road’., Yes, I bring facetious.
    I am turned around and was right as rain. But no Tammy in sight. No problem. I am a bit slower today. We know on the days this can happen we will meet at the first town
    We are 11km in. I will be SO happy for a break and a bathroom. ( With so many pilgrims , it’s a bit difficult this week to ‘slip off the path’, so to speak.)
    I know I have run late with my ‘side trip’,. I am focused and moving. I stop at a lovely, fairly new ‘Bar’ and everyone is there!! The Aussie couple, Brad and Suzy, the Aussie wife Silvia and her husband’s buddy, Bryan ( Ian will get to resume walking tomorrow after healing up a bit), Red Lipstick is there, the gal we have run into many tubes and finally got her name , Bianca!! (Also, Aussie) and, ‘Bavarian guy’..
    I asked if they had seen her? I explained to each group, that she was way ahead of me and surely she had passed by? None of them had seen her.
    Finally, Whistle Guy (the guy who we had crossed paths with several times this meeting and other days AND who had whistled at me to get me back on the Camino a half hour before). Says, the blue shirt gal!? ( They have ‘names for us also.😂). She stopped at the first tiny stop back up the road. I had blown passed it, unnoticed 😉.
    Tammy had pulled over, headed to the bathroom and, as she should, ordered a coffee and waited for me………. Never saw her. 😂
    Where we were I couldn’t use a cell phone to call her. ( long story, WiFi, etc).
    The husband from one Aussie couple volunteered to run out if he saw her ( so I could use the rest room). Thank you, Brad!
    I order a tea, because yes, I am still in the milk alternative wasteland m so couldn’t have a hit chocolate ( haha). See photos of cows *
    Tammy walks up just as I sit with my tea! Hurray!! But wait, she has had her break and I just sat down. Did I mention she was on fire today and I was slow!? 😃. Long story short, we all chatted a bit wine I had my tea and off we went.
    Only another 4-5km , well 6-7kn and up 6 sets of stairs to to actually get to our Pension. .…And then, what luck, it was only 3 flights to get to our room. 😅😂.
    We showered and headed to the Lavanadria. €4 Euros to wash (28 minutes). €2 to dry ( 18 minutes.
    WE should have the spin cycle they have, clothing is amiss dry when it comes out of the wash!
    A gal from California ( so many Americans 👍) offered to share her washer and dryer, and split the cost. SWEET!
    We then walked 2 doors down, order a Vino tinto ( red wine) sat outside and waited for laundry.👍). You’ve got to love it!
    Later we found an Italian restaurant/pizza place that had gluten free pasta!!! SCORE! And different from the Pilgrim menu we have had for 4 wks which has few changes. Great prices, but always the same choices. No complaints, but tonight was such a great change!!
    An aside:
    We have’ names ‘ for others pilgrims like Green pants, pink jacket, head phone guy, Spanish bikers, etc. only because we haven’t gotten their names. 😉) It happens to us also. ‘The American gals’, ‘the laundry people’ as we shared the washer /dryer and payment one day. The next when we ran into her we were ‘the laundry people’. We exchanged names on that one. 😉
    Included is a map if all the Camino’s when they are in Gallacia. They all are longer then shown as they all start outside of this Provence.
    And the marker as one enters Galacia, our last province.
    Tomorrow, Portomarin!! 🤞🤞🤞
    Good night all! Hugs!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Portomarin

    October 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We started early from Sarria. Sarria is a point where many people will start approximately 100km into Santiago de Compostellat to earn a Compostela credential. It is allowed and works for so many who don’t have the time, inclination or ability to do the 800km+. They get a good taste of the Camino and a great experience.
    However, yesterday we saw a few people on the Camino and ran into other pilgrims we have met at coffee shops/ Bars. Today, it’s like walking into a college football game. There are always 25 people nearby. Conversations from many different countries. Different accents, languages all around. No more quiet moments in your own head. Such a culture shock! 😃
    We crossed the 100km marker. 100km left.
    At the end of a long day with so many other people we arrived in Portomarin and stairs into town. So many stairs!!!! What a twisted joke. 😜😂
    Only 4 days and we are in Santiago!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Palas de Rei

    October 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    We walked in so much rain! I was drenched though to my undies! And I was wearing a plastic poncho!!
    We were grumpy, wet, cold and hungry. A hot shower did miracles. Then we were off to do laundry.
    There is a big laundromat with 3 washers. 3 dryers. Only 1 dryer works!!! I asked a gal to hold my spot while I went next door to inform Tammy about the one dryer.
    Now I /we have to do battle over our place in line! Others claim they were here. My gal holding my spot has no spine. So now, our undies, and clothes might need to share a very large dryer with a guy who believes he is in the right to claim he is before me. I through out the compromise ( in Spanish) and he seemed mollified. Fun!🙃. Long story short, Tammy took over holding our ‘place’ in line. The guy changed his story. It was a mess. Other gals shared with us. All was well but Tammy has a gift story!
    It’s almost 6pm. It will be almost an hour before we get to dry our clothes. Ack!!! Another really late dinner. Normal in Spain. Not normal for us and we need to be up again at 6:30am. Ugh!!
    No photos except for the laundromat. It was too wet and I was too miserable for photos. 🙃
    Sorry to be such a ‘wet’ noodle. 😂    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Arzua,Spain

    October 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Good morning!! The forecast stated zero rain. Mother Nature might argue that as it’s misting and we geared up!! Pretty wet for no rain….☔️
    The first thing I saw this morning was a favorite sight, Horreos. In this area they are small and look a bit like a tiny house. They were used for food storage. They are always many feet off the ground. There are 2 in the first photo. I promise I won’t bore you with lots of photos. There is just something I like about them. *There is a photo of a woven round structure with a thatched roof. It’s isn’t caked a Horreo but was also used for storage.
    A little side story: a phrase to hear. Bed chasing.
    The Camino books traditional recommend booking the first week or so in advance then booking a day or so ahead is fine. That is no longer the case. Especially on the Camino Frances. We have had bookings well in advance ( in some cases months). Thank you, Tammy.
    Where I am going with this is, with all the people who walk the last 100km…. if they don’t all have beds booked months ago or at least weeks ago they will either need to spend more money then anticipated or need to ‘bed chase’. That is when folks get up really early to walk 20+km make it to an Alburgue or the next to get a bed before they are all booked up. They can also head on to the next town. Not what one wants to do when you’re tired and beat.
    The rain stopped early ( sorry the Mist stopped early). Can’t have been rain there wasn’t any forecast. 😉. We had great views and far fewer other pilgrims today. You can see today the effect all yesterday’s rain had on our trail/the Camiño.
    There were so many lovely villages, churches, bridges. I had an Octopus burger today!! Wow!!
    We came across a lovely surprise, a women playing bagpipes along side the Camino. Beautiful! It was a great day!
    We are a little over 40km from Santiago. 26km tomorrow and then 20km+ into Santiago de Compostela!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances
    1

    Pedrousa,Spain

    October 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Dinner last night was at Casa do Nini, a tiny adorable amazing find!!. Delicious salad, scallops, and a seriously great steak, we split along with a nice bottle of wine ($24.00) all in a French Country setting in this tiny find!
    Everyone else had reservations. We were able to get the last table as walk ins.. The kitchen was on the 1st floor. Dining on the upper story. The staff set up the breads, wines to ‘stage’ the dining area. The staff had to go up and down 20 stairs to gather up and bring each order back up the many stairs. The kitchen was tiny. The counter on the first floor only accommodated a staff member or an open drawer. ( The point being one needed to move to open a drawer for napkins or other items in a very narrow space. So many places utilize very small spaces to serve many people in a short time. So amazing!
    Lunch at Marcela. Ginger lemonade, eggs and bacon. Delish. As you can tell food becomes an important part of any pilgrims day!
    *****Tomorrow Santiago!!! ******
    Today-No rain! Broken clouds! Bagpipes again! 😂
    Not near as many pilgrims! They must’ve started in many of the other villages and towns due to the rain two days ago,. The streets being flooded with people is no longer the issue!! That may all change tomorrow!
    We have seen Bavarian guy several times the last few days. We pass him. He walks by us. Different breaks in different locations. Now he says He figures we will pass each other a good 20 times before we reach Santiago! 😂
    This morning we left before daylight and were rewarded with another beautiful sunrise! We are 20km+/- to Santiago. The goal is to arrive for the Pilgrims Mass at noon. A wonderful tradition.
    What a wonderful, exciting day today was!!
    Tomorrow all predictions are for rain ALL DAY!
    ‘Shoot me now!’ 😅😂.    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Santiago! It’s a wrap!!

    October 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    4am wake up! 4:30am out the door! No rain apparently meant a heavy mist turning into light rain becoming rain by 9:30am when we arrived soaked again! We walked until 8:30-ish in the dark.
    My head lamp lasted a few hours then quit! I am getting an industrial headlamp in the future! 😋
    We used our phones and then there were street lamps as we can out of the forest and hills. There wasn’t a place open to eat or get cut coffee until after we had walked 4 hours. We were beat!
    Some food got our ‘motors’ running enough to get us into Santiago!! First order of business is to get a number so you have an idea of when it’s your turn to show your credential which holds all your’ stamps’- rubber stamp marks that show everywhere You stayed or stopped at. It’s a ‘proof’
    that you actually travelled the Camino.
    We expected to get our number and then get something to eat while writing our turn. Toast with all the rain, oddly, we were given a number, sent in for the interview, given our Compostelas and we were out the door in 20 minutes! Unbelievable!
    Side note your name is supposed to be in Latin. They have trouble with what I use Mary Holly). First the computer printed out Diem Sanctum Bange. I was asked if that would work for me. Hehehe
    We finally over ruled the computer and you can see the compromise. Hehehe
    Amazing we arrived and were ready before Mass so we changed into dry clothes to head to Mass. while we had no line for the Compostela. The line to get into mass was crazy!!
    I absolutely lucked out on my room. So had to show my view and a bit of the room. It feels so amazing to be able to put some make up on and hair! 30+days of looking like I live in a tree gets old. 😂
    Headed out to eat soon! I am still in Camiño clothes as it’s still dumping rain!!☔️. Hiking sandals as the rivers of water will just get anything else soaked! Tomorrow, laundry maybe some shopping?? In the rain ☔️???    Read more

    Trip end
    October 8, 2024
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