• Julie Rosenthal
ago. – out. 2023

Camino Frances 2023

Camino de Santiago - Walking 500 miles and going to the ends of the Earth with Jörg by my side, watching over me. Leia mais
  • The next day in Santiago

    13 de outubro de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I woke up to pouring rain today. But guess what, I didn’t mind, I didn’t have to put on my hiking boots and hike 20 kms in it. I did, however, have to get out of bed eventually as I had a 10:30 appointment with the Tattoo Artist, Ethan Clay

    I had sent him a photo of the original design and told him I would want some changes. I had done up in Adobe Fresco a really bad mock up of what I would want but he was able to work with it and he quickly put the tattoo design together.

    I will explain the tattoo. Obviously, you can see that it is the infinity sign and that there are a boy and girl walking holding hands. I had him do the shell in the bottom left imperfect to match Jörg’s shell which had a few chips. I had carried Jörg’s shell from 2009 with me on this trip. In the middle, you can see the mountains on the right and the ocean waves on the left to represent the trail. I also feel that the ocean waves have a double meaning in that after the camino, we moved to the ocean which was a huge part of Jörg’s life. In the middle is Buen Camino. Jörg absolutely loved saying those words to everyone he met. It always brought him great joy. It also brought me great joy and strength on both caminos. Nothing like when you are feeling tired and sore, passing through a village and a local person says the words to you, you perk up a little more and can go a little further.

    After the tattoo I came back and had a little nap. In the afternoon, Christina and I went to the shopping mall by bus. We were there a few hours but I only bought a few things. Still need to do more, but I can do some shopping with Baars clan when I get to Germany.

    In the evening I got together with a few of my camino family and had a wonderful time at dinner at a Tapas Restaurant. Sharing all our stories, good times, challenging times, and silly idiotic times. The one thing we knew, is that half these stories could only really be understood or appreciated by those who have walked the camino. That makes them even more special.

    I have made a slight change in my plans. I am going to Finisterre tomorrow instead of Sunday. The weather forecast is better. So Christina and I are going together for one day. I know some of you thought you heard the last of me but I have one more blog entry after this. Finisterre has a significant memory for Jörg and I and I will share that story with you tomorrow.

    TTYL

    Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal

    It was so nice to sleep in today. My watch alarm went off at 7:00am by accident, but I quickly switched it off and went back to sleep.

    We finally got out of the hotel by 10 and went to the cathedral. We hugged St, James and then stayed for the mass. We were lucky today because they had the big incense burner going. It was really quite spectacular.

    After mass we caught a taxi to the mall and I went shopping for a couple hours. I bought a pair of running shoes, socks, underwear, backpack, and a shirt for Joerg (but I am currently borrowing because I lost the blue one he gave me) I also printed some pictures for both of us (mostly pictures of the two of us) but I did print the shirtless one of Joerg that I love.

    After shopping we relaxed in the room for about an hour and then went to the special pilgrim mass at 8pm at the cathedral. It was so great. It was in a smaller chapel with about 40 people. We first had to introduce ourselves and where we started. Then there was a reading, and then if you wanted, you could share how you felt on the first day. Another reading, then shared what experiences you had, or lessons you learned on the Camino. I almost got up and shared my “butterfly” and “you are loved” stories but I didn’t.

    After the service, Joerg and I walked the streets arm and arm talking about our experiences and sharing them. One of Joerg’s was that he realized it was not good to always be alone, it was good to have friends and people beside you, then he turned and said to me “and you beside me”.

    We then stopped in a restaurant and had a beer, tapas and lemon sorbet with cava. While there, we talked about what happens next. I was happy when he brought it up as it was on my mind for a while and I was going to bring it up soon. I told him that I wanted him to be part of my life. He feels the same but feels a little conflicted because of his devotion and expectations of his family. He said he sometimes thinks about moving to Canada but doesn’t think his father would want him to. They are very traditional and want their kids around.

    I asked him “even if it was for a woman? Don’t you think he would want you to be happy?” He said “maybe”. We talked about Africa, how he could work in a factory in Canada but we didn’t make any decisions as we know we still have a few days left as we rented a car.

    This day was very special for me. Joerg confirmed what I could feel that he wanted to be with me. The funny thing is that I have not cried yet. I am so unbelievably happy. I think sometimes that it is not real, that it really isn’t happening. But on the other hand, it feels so natural that I feel calm about it.

    I am also sometimes scared. My life is changing so fast and so much. I wonder what is next.

    The Camino, what a memory! I must admit, I found the whole thing pretty easy, but I know that is because he was beside me, taking care of me, loving me. The Camino is complete, but the rest of my life is just beginning.
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  • A day in Finisterre

    14 de outubro de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    What a wonderful ending to the camino, dipping my feet in the ocean during the sunset in Finisterre. Finisterre is named and known to be the end of the world. When people believed the world was flat, this was the furthest point they could go. If they sailed out here to the edge, they would fall off.

    The day started by meeting Christina at 9:15 to catch the bus at 10:00 for the 3 hour bus ride. We arrived at 1:00pm but our hotel didn’t open until 4pm, so we grabbed lunch and then made the trek to the Faro (lighthouse). It is between 3-4km from the town center. I was wearing jeans, but it was way too hot, so I stopped on the edge of the road to change into shorts. The one thing the camino taught me is that doing this is no big deal. Really, so someone sees my underwear, people see the same on a beach, but much less cloth.

    We made it to the lighthouse, the 000km marker and the point where the clothes used to be burned. They have filled in the hole now and forbid it, but the stones are still there.

    I left Christina and went and climbed our special hill, Jörg’s and mine. So before I explain what I did today, it is time to go back in time and explain about the hill.

    In 2008, I had decided to do the camino in the fall of 2009 before meeting Jörg. He thought that it was interesting but didn’t have any desire to do it. He said he would just meet me at the start and the finish to celebrate. About a month before I was to start, he had decided to walk with me. He was in Portugal at the time and drove home to Germany, did a little training weekend and then left on a bus for Saint Jean Pied de Port to meet me for an August 30th start.

    You all know our journey now through the “throwbacks” I have been including. Our first kiss, our first “I love you”, our first fight etc. Well, after the camino was complete, we had rented a car and stopped in Muxia and Finisterre.

    After visiting the lighthouse and sitting at the point for awhile, Jörg suggested we take a little hike up the hill. So off we went and then we sat on some rocks at the top. He then said, “go look under that rock”. A little confused, I went and looked and there was nothing. Then he had a worried look on his face and said, “hold on”, then came back and said, “ok, over there under that rock”. So just a little distance away, I went and lifted the rock and underneath it was a plastic bag. Inside the plastic bag was the letter I had sent him during the summer with some photos I had taken on the beach of Tofino. The photos were of the message written in the sand with stones “I miss you Jörg”. In the letter I wrote, it also included two of the stones and they were in this bag as well.

    So all this time, during the summer and during the start of the camino I was wondering if he even really liked me, and he had already buried this stuff a month before we started the camino. So the answer was obviously yes. He stopped here when driving from Portugal back to Germany and buried it. How incredible and romantic is that?

    So today, I had decided I would visit that spot again. I found it by the pictures I had taken. I decided I would like to bury something here under a rock as well. The item I decided on was Jörg’s Yellow Arrow name tag that he used when we were hospitaleros. I had carried it with me along the camino the whole time in my waist pack. Every so often, the pin would open up and stab me through the bag. I would just laugh and imagine Jörg wanted my attention at that moment.

    So, Jörg’s pin is now safely buried under a rock on a hill, overlooking the ocean at Finisterre. He would love the spot. It is quiet and you only hear the ocean waves breaking against the rocks and shore.

    Christina and I walked back to town, relaxed in the room a bit and then headed out to see the sunset on the beach. It was a bit clouded so we didn’t get to see the sun setting, but the clouds did turn a pretty colour. I dipped my feet in the ocean and I felt it was actually quite warm. At one point, I turned around and Christina was taking pictures so I posed, and just at that time, a wave hit me from behind and splashed completely up my backside getting my jeans soaking wet. I just laughed. We eventually left the beach, I went back and changed, we went out for dinner at 8:30 and then are now quietly relaxing before bed. It is Christina’s last day in Spain and last day for the camino. She is leaving tomorrow for Porto and then flying home. I will see her again soon when I go to visit Denmark.

    Jörg walked 500 miles and went to the ends of the Earth for me. I have now walked 500 miles and went to the ends of the Earth for him. It is the very least I could do for the 14 incredible years of complete joy he had given me. I recognize that the love we shared was very special and doesn’t come around very often in life. I was completely blessed to have met him and I will cherish our short time together forever.

    I have one last thing I want to do. I need to finish the book that we both wanted to write about our camino journey. It may be something just for myself, or it may be for publishing, but I want to finish it. I will finish it.

    Thank you for sharing in my journey and for all your encouraging comments along the way. It was such a blessing to share our story with you.

    Julie XO
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    Final da viagem
    14 de outubro de 2023