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- Thursday, August 24, 2023
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 14 m
CanadaVictoria International Airport48°38’26” N 123°25’51” W
I’M OFF THEN …

“I’m Off Then” is the name of the book by Hape Kerkeling, a German comedian who walked the camino. It was the book that Jörg burned for kindling for our camping fire in Zion National Park in February 2009. It was also the kindling that started our conversation about the camino. I had it already on my radar to walk in the fall and after our chat, he said he would meet me there to send me off and greet me at the end. A month before I was to start, he decided he would join me on the pilgrimage.
Back then were different times, no iPhone, just a digital camera and a paper journal. This blog will now replace my paper journal. I can’t be sure how many details I will share here. I would like to share everything; what I see, what I hear, what I smell, what I touch, what I taste and most importantly what I feel. It is this last one that will be the biggest challenge. I am sure I will be experiencing a plethora of emotions. I am also sure some will be uncomfortable to share and uncomfortable to read, but I am hoping to share them all as I learn to carry my grief.
Well, it is that time. “All my bags are packed and I am ready to go … “ I will leave you with this song I had learned on the guitar for Joerg back in 2010. He was leaving for the first time from Canada to go back to Germany for a bit as he was only here on a tourist Visa and had to leave every 3 months. Believe me, the video is hilarious and painful at the same time. Feel free to laugh out loud but as they say, “it’s the thought that counts”. I had to edit the video down to a max of 2 minutes (lucky you!) I left the end of the video where you can see where I thought I turned off the camera, but didn’t and Jörg came in to thank me!Read more
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- Friday, August 25, 2023
- ☀️ 36 °C
- Altitude: 661 m
SpainPlaza de los Carros40°24’40” N 3°42’25” W
Arriving in Madrid

I arrived at OK hostel in Madrid at 3pm after being awake for 26 hours and two delayed flights. I think I have now become one of “those people” who cannot sleep on planes. I was exhausted and hungry, so I went in search for quick food, and I found it, McDonald’s. I know I will have lots of opportunities for authentic Spanish food so I don’t feel any guilt (ok obviously I have a smidge of guilt or I wouldn’t have mentioned it!)
I then went back to the hostel for a nap.
I woke up around 8:30pm so decided to join the community dinner. Met a very nice couple from Quebec and they persuaded me to go on an organized bar crawl with the hostel. There were about 25 of us and it started at 11:15pm. We went to three different bars and got free tequila shots at each. They were dance clubs, and it was a stark reminder that I am no longer in my 20s. I embraced the atmosphere at first, moving around the club, needing to brush against everyone just to move closer to the bar to get our free shot. It wasn’t until 2:00am that we got into our third club (which is open until 6am of which my guide informed me enthusiastically). Just after 3:00am, it was time for me to call it quits and leave my new friends to close out the bar. I had a good time, but the crowds and the noise was just way too much by that time. I was back and in bed around 4am. You would think I would sleep through the day, but I was wide awake at 6am, so have decided to try and stay up for the day as 6-7am will be my normal waking hours on the Camino.
When I was on the plane, I thought about Jörg quite a bit. The most consistent thought is that he should be here with me. I know most would say he is here in spirit with me, but it is absolutely not the same. We had a tradition of holding hands whenever we took off and landed, so I made a fist and held his hand.
During dinner, I was telling my new friends (Max and Laura) all about Jörg. He is obviously integrated into most of my memories and conversations. I love talking about him and sharing his stories. Max is a kite surfer and did some surfing in Tofino. At one point Max asked me where is my husband. I decided to tell them he had passed. This will be a daily decision I need to make and I am not entirely sure I know how I am going to handle it. On one hand, I don’t need to tell everyone, especially if they are just a passing acquaintance. Later in the evening I was talking to a couple from Austria and I mentioned Jörg was from Germany. They asked where do we live, and I just said we live in Canada. There was no need to go into more, especially in the middle of a club. I know there will become a time I will start saying “my late husband” when telling the stories but I am not ready for that yet. Not sure I will ever be ready, but not my worry for today.
After typing this out, I am now ready for a nap … so much for staying up.
TTYL (Talk to you later)Read more
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- Saturday, August 26, 2023
- 🌬 30 °C
- Altitude: 664 m
SpainPlaza de los Carros40°24’40” N 3°42’24” W
A Day in Madrid

Survived another day in Madrid. I had breakfast at 8am and afterwards I was ready to crash again. Slept until 11:00am. Some of you may know this but there is another route to Santiago de Compestela that starts in Madrid. I posted online in my Facebook Camiga group asking if I should get a stamp from Madrid even though I was starting in SJPDP. The answer was a resounding yes and one person even replied that they live in Madrid and looked up the hours of the church that gives the stamp and it was open from 10-1 so off I went. I got my stamp.
I will admit that going in the Santiago Church here in Madrid had an impact on me. God and I are not on good terms right now and I told him that. In spite of my feelings, when I sat in the church alone I still felt an overpowering feeling of love.
I then did a walk about. Hit all the tourist spots like Plaza Mayor, Puerta del sol (the middle of Madrid and Spain), Parque de el Retiro and Decathlon. Ok, Decathlon isn’t a tourist destination, but I was on the hunt for a few items. One was some hiking sticks. I decided at the last minute to not take my hiking poles with me as I was taking my backpack as carry on and there were mixed reviews as to whether the airport security would allow it. I didn’t want the hassle. I decided I would buy them here. I know they sell them in SJPDP, but thought I would try to get them sooner. The Decathlon store was very small and they only had a couple types and I didn’t like them.
I was also on the hunt for some socks for my sandals. GASP! I am becoming one of “those people”, socks with sandals. It is painful just typing these words. I am so dead set against this, but when you need it, fashion goes out the window. I wore my sandals out during my 4 hours of clubbing last night and then after about 5km today I could feel blisters starting to form. I tried to put bandages on the spots to prevent them but my sandals are so tight fitting that they would rip off when I put my sandal on. I then thought that perhaps if I put bandages on the spot and then put socks over them, that may help keep them in place. So I bought some short running socks that were subtle and matched my sandals. Problem solved, but I will need to try and evade the fashion police.
After the walk, I came back for another nap, then down for dinner again at the hostel. I have now had my first traditional Spanish dish, Paella so the guilt of yesterday’s McDonalds is now absolved. TTYLRead more
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- Sunday, August 27, 2023 at 2:50 PM
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 661 m
SpainPlaza de los Carros40°24’40” N 3°42’25” W
Another Day in Madrid

I stayed in bed all night, the first step to conquering my jet lag. I went to bed at about 11pm and stayed in bed until 7am. Staying in bed is different than sleeping though. I woke up quite a bit through the night but forced myself to stay in bed and try to get back to sleep. Baby steps.
I had two things on my agenda to do today; the world famous Sunday El Rastro Open Air Market and a walking tour of Madrid.
The market is literally 10 metres from my hostel so just had to fall out of bed for that one. It opened at 9am so I was a bit early so popped into a local bakery and had a ham and cheese quiche sort of thing and some pig’s ears . The Spanish call them Palmeras / Palmiers, but as soon as I saw them, I knew I had to have a Schweinsoerchen for Jörg.
I then ventured into the market at 9am where quite a few were still setting up. I wandered and thought, oh yeah, this is big, but only a little bigger than the Duncan Farmers Market, but then I wandered a little further and saw that there were branches off on each block. I read on Wiki there are hundreds of vendors. It had all the typical flea market stuff like clothes, bags, art, jewellery etc. There were quite a few vendors that had tables of clothes that were just in a heap for 1-5 Euros. I would have loved to dig through the piles but I was too scared I would find something (and add weight to my already heavy backpack).
As I was wandering the market, I started to not feel so good, like I wanted to throw up. I headed back to the hostel and slept for 45 mins before getting up for the walking tour starting at 11am. I felt better, was it the pig’s ear?
The walking tour was good, not great, but good. There was more standing than walking for the 3 hours. We went to some of the same places I already wandered to yesterday but I did hear about some of the history. One place I didn’t get to yesterday was the palace and cathedral and they were quite nice. There was a lookout in between looking over part of the city. I just realized today how much more I like nature over architecture. I do like both of them, but I felt a type of excitement bubble inside me as soon as I saw a hint of green at the distant lookout. The view itself wasn’t any more spectacular than I have seen in other parts of the world, but the joy inside was clear. I assume that is why I am so drawn to hiking and living in BC.
After the tour I decided I would just go back to the hostel, do some laundry and spend some me time, reading, stretching, rubbing my feet with cream etc. At 4:30pm I finished my laundry and started to pack away the clothes when ... zzzzzzzzzzzz. I woke up at 7:30pm with clothes all around me.
I really wanted to go back to sleep but I needed to finish packing up my backpack tonight as I will be getting up early in the morning to leave. Well, really not early, 8am, but to people in Madrid, that is early. They have their afternoon siesta so they stay up into the early morning. I just want to minimize the disturbance in the morning.
Ok, well, it is 10:00pm now and I am going to try and get back to sleep, I have a 3 hour train ride tomorrow to Pamplona. Two days until take off! TTYLRead more

The market and walk sound fantastic but I am like you I can only take crowds and traffic for so long. [Maureen]
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- Monday, August 28, 2023
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 457 m
SpainCatedral de Pamplona Occidens42°49’11” N 1°38’31” W
Passing through Pamplona

Awwww ... that is the sound of relief, the sound of me breathing in the fresh air and the feeling of peace. Now this is the Spain I remember. It was great to experience Madrid, but it was great to leave. It was too busy, too touristy, too hot, and too loud. But, the people I met were nice.
I left Madrid this morning on a 3 hour train ride to Pamplona. It was pretty smooth getting to the train and seated. Now I could just relax and finish listening to the book I started in Canada. It is called It’s OK that You’re Not OK by Megan Devine. It is a good book to help me understand my grief and learn to carry it. I am sure I will refer to it and talk about it though my camino, but today I will just let it sink in and absorb it.
When I arrived in Pamplona, the albergue was easy to find. I settled in and decided to go look for some food before I showered and settled in for the night. I then happened upon the same plaza I was in with Joerg 14 years ago. I could see it plain as day, him in his blue shirt and sandals with his new German friends. I just stood in that spot, closed my eyes, outstretched my arms and breathed. I just wanted to feel him.
I also came across a great equipment store for everything camino. I went in and got myself a new set of Leki hiking poles. I am quite excited as my last ones are over 15 years old. I can see the difference, I think they will be perfect.
I have already met a few people who are scheduled on the bus with me tomorrow to SJPDP. Once I arrive in SJPDP tomorrow the journey will begin. I am so glad I did take those extra days in Madrid before starting. It helped me sort out the logistics of my backpack and tackle the majority of my jet lag. I am feeling quite refreshed today and I think I will be on a somewhat normal schedule now.
Ok, time to finish my Bocadillo and then settle in for the night. I can sleep in as the bus does not leave until noon, but it will be nice to still get to bed early with the pilgrims now.
TTYLRead more
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- Tuesday, August 29, 2023
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 194 m
FranceSaint-Jean-Pied-de-Port43°9’48” N 1°14’9” W
Saint Jean Pied de Port

Well, my first negative experience happened last night. I went to bed early at 9:00pm and slept until 1:30am. After that time, I couldn’t get back to sleep so I went downstairs in the hostel and played on my phone. I went back to bed around 3:30am and was suddenly woken up at 4:30am with someone grabbing my leg. It was the guy in the bunk bed across from me. He said something and I thought, oh, he just thought I was someone else by accident and when I didn’t respond he said it again, “you have been snoring all night long”. I was now half awake and I said “yeah, so, what do you think I can do about it?” He didn’t say anything and went back to bed. I didn’t go back to sleep after that. One because I was worried I was keeping others awake, and two because I was going over and over in my head what I am going to say to him in the morning. The irony is that when he fell asleep, he snored! I recorded it and thought I would play it for him.
So morning came and he was out of bed. I was on my phone, probably scrolling facebook and he said good morning, and I didn’t respond, he said it again, I didn’t respond and just kept looking at my phone and ignoring him. He went away and came back in about 15 minutes and said good morning again and I answered “is it?” He said “yes it is morning”, and I replied “is it good? You woke me up in the middle of the night”. He acknowledged that I haven’t been back to sleep since. He apologized and said that he only did that because when he snores, his partner elbows him and the change of position helps. I know that was bull, he did it because I was keeping him awake. In any case, you don’t touch a complete stranger, if he wanted to wake me, he could say something to me to wake me, not grab my leg. He was German speaking, but I don’t know where from.
Well, after that, I took my time to get out of bed. I didn’t need to get to the bus station until noon. The bus ride was nice. I sat beside a woman from Australia doing her first camino. The scenery was breathtaking but the winding roads reminded me of the road to Tofino and was glad when we arrived.
My first stop was the pilgrim office to get my stamp. After that, I went to look at the hostel where Joerg and I stayed. I am sure I have told this story before, but it was full of cats and dogs and stunk so bad. But also, it was where he put his arm around me on the bench outside. It now has a table and chairs, go figure after 14 years the bench isn’t still there. Everything else was the same. In fact, when I was taking photos and video of the place, a cat was jumping up on a screen (watch the video closely, it cracks me up when I see the cat dangling. It was just perfect!
I met up with Kriste from New Hampshire. I had met her through the Facebook group CAMIGA. We had a drink together and then met up again to go to the grocery store. I will probably not see her again as she is going straight through to Roncesvalles. I think most of the people I meet these first few days I won’t see again because I am taking it slow at first.
I checked into the hostel which is run by Josef. He bought it about 10 years ago, and I told him I stayed 14 years ago in the same room.
I then went for a walkabout. I went to places Jörg and I were together, where we had coffee, where we had dinner, and the bridge where we started the camino. It was emotional and I shed some tears. He loved this town and because he was here a couple days before me, he really had a chance to explore it. My emotions always take me back to the same place, he should be here with me. I often ask myself, “What am I doing here? What am I doing here without him?” I think I will eventually start feeling somewhat different once I start walking. My thoughts will be consumed with my aches and pains and the challenges of daily living.
Dinner at the albergue was delicious. There were about 18 of us. Josef had some activities for us to do to get to know each other. One of them was to throw an imaginary ball at people and when you caught it, you would say in just 3 or 4 words of a book title if you were to write it about this upcoming camino. Mine was Love Lives On. Afterwards, he said we had time for a couple people if they want to explain their title. There weren’t any volunteers, so I decided to share and told the story of Joerg and I (the short version). I thought that with this group it would be easier than the awkward pause when I tell each person.
Now it’s time for bed.
TTYL
Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal
I am sitting in my bunk right now with Joerg in the bunk above me, shirtless and in his shorts. It is taking everything I have not to fantasize.
I woke up at 3 in the morning and couldn’t get back to sleep. I had gone to bed at 8pm so I think I had enough sleep considering. I needed to catch a 7:35 train this morning from Barcelona to Pamplona so I headed out early and arrived at the train station by 7am. The train ride was good, but my mind was only on one thing “What will happen at 6:00pm tonight?”
I arrived at 6 p.m. (as planned) in SJPDP and Joerg was there waiting for me. When I got out of the van I headed straight for him and we had our big hug. It felt so nice to be in his arms. A few times through the day he put his arms around me again. There is more … I can feel it … I think there will be a kiss soon.
On that note, I am going to sleep. Joerg had suggested we have a picnic lunch tomorrow. It would be perfect if it ends in a kiss.
The next day from Julie’s Journal
I slept in today until 9:30. I woke up a couple of times for the washroom and allergies. This whole hostel smells of cats and dogs. They are everywhere. I am glad I am staying at L’esprit hostel tonight. I have checked in and they had a name tag and mint on my pillow.
Joerg and I walked around town today. We had a picnic breakfast because I was so late getting up. I am currently sitting outside Joerg’s hostel. His window is open so I am looking at him sleep in the afternoon. He is much more affectionate with me, sometimes putting his arm around me. We didn’t kiss today, but before the end of this trip, I am pretty sure we will.
After dinner I went out and sat with Joerg on the bench of the hostel and shared our red wine with a couple other German guys who are riding their bikes on the Camino. While sitting on the bench, Joerg put his arm around me (on the bench) but you know it was on purpose. We finally went in at 10:30 … to my surprise, my hostel was locked up and closed. I knocked lightly for about 5 minutes and finally Karsten came and answered the door … Thank God!! My next step would have been to go sleep with Joerg - which I guess wouldn’t be so bad :-)Read more
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- Wednesday, August 30, 2023 at 8:32 PM
- ☁️ 15 °C
- Altitude: 805 m
FranceBois d’Orisson43°6’32” N 1°14’21” W
Day 1-St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson 8k

I am in Orisson now and what a day it was! It was tough!
We had to leave our albergue by 8am. It was raining last night and a little this morning. The forecast was for rain, but I decided to not put on my raincoat as it was warm enough and better to get a little wet then sweat inside the rain jacket. After taking pictures at the starting bridge, I was off.
The scenery did not disappoint. It was absolutely breathtaking even though it was cloudy and misty sometimes. It just made everything all the more green. I took over 125 pictures and videos, and it will be really hard to narrow them down to a 2 minute video and 20 photos but I will try.
It was a really tough climb. It was 8 km and a 700m increase in elevation. It was quite steep. I kept saying over and over to myself, how did I do 25km in one day last time. I am barely going to make the 8km. This is how: 1) I was 14 years younger, 2) I weighed 20 pounds less and was much more regularly active and 3) I was trying to impress this amazing man with me which I was in love with!
Tomorrow’s climb is another 700m rise but that is over 12km so not as steep. But, it has the added challenge of going down for 5km before I get to my bed.
I was taking the walk very slow today. I started to have thoughts about Jörg at times. Some were wonderful memories but at the same time I had the one thought that plagues my mind consistently and that is that he should be here. But today the thoughts went further. I thought, “He could be here DAMN IT.”
This may be hard to hear for some about the details of Jörg’s cancer diagnosis so skip this paragraph if you don’t want to read it. Jörg and I never talked about his cancer diagnosis very often (his choice) but we both understood that he left it too long to get tested. He told me a couple times to make sure I get myself checked regularly for breast cancer with a specific sadness in his tone. As you know, Jörg was a very fit athletic man whose resting heart rate was in the 40s. He started to have problems urinating but kept buying over the counter herbal stuff to help. It would help for a bit but then stop working. I finally convinced him to go to the doctor but he was only going as he had a mole he wanted removed and would tell the doctor this problem as well. He hadn’t been to the doctor in at least 6 years before that. Joerg’s PSA was over 100 when he was tested and was diagnosed with stage 4 prostate cancer, already spread to his bones all over his body. Prostate cancer is one of these cancers that usually men can live with if caught early, in fact, many are cured. Jörg’s father and grandfather both had it and lived to 80. To test for it is a simple PSA blood test. The reason I am telling these details is so that if you are a man, or if there is a man in your life you love with all your heart, please please please make sure he gets tested regularly! We may never know if Jörg could have lived to 80 like he hoped as his cancer was a very aggressive form, but I believe getting tested earlier would have given us a fighting chance. I must clarify something very important though, I in no way blame Jörg for this outcome. He sincerely believed that he didn’t need to worry about his prostate until later and did not have any concerns. No one is to blame.
Once I checked in, I showered and had lunch. I then read my guide about today and tomorrow’s walk.
We had a community dinner again where we had to stand up and introduce ourselves and this time I kept it brief said I was doing the Camino in the memory of my husband. A lot more strangers in the room so didn’t want to share. I feel like I can’t tell a different reason as I would be lying but I also don’t want to draw attention to myself for this reason.
Well, off to bed early again. 8:30pm and in bed.
TTYLRead more
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- Thursday, August 31, 2023
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 963 m
SpainReal Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles43°0’37” N 1°19’10” W
Day 2 - Orrison to Roncesvalles - 18km

18km today - done and done!
I started out around 7:30am after breakfast. I had a reservation in Roncesvalles so I didn’t need to worry about my pace, I just had to arrive by 7pm or I lose my bed and dinner.
It was a steady climb up again, but was blessed with seeing the sun rise over the mountains. While walking, it was just as important to occasionally look behind as the scenery was breathtaking every step of the way.
Physically today was a challenge. It was 13km with a 700m gain plus a 4.5 km decent. On the climb, I took a break about every 4km to make sure I would last. I took my boots off at that point as well. The muscles were holding out pretty well, for awhile. I think about the 11km mark I was really starting to feel my glutes and hamstrings. About 1km into my 4.5 km decent they were screaming! They were so tired. I would stop every so often and stretch them. About 3 km from the end, I could feel some hot spots on my feet forming for blisters, different places than usual because of going downhill, so I sat down and put tape on them right away. I was tempted to wait as it was only 3km but I knew better not to wait if I wanted to keep going the next day.
I arrived in Roncesvalles by 4pm. It was good I had a reservation as by 3:30pm they were all full. They have a system where they give you a coloured card when you arrive and then call out the colour to check you in. I wasn’t to my bed until 5pm. I then showered, stretched, rolled my muscles and relaxed. Then it was time for the pilgrims dinner. Dinner was pasta, pork and potatoes. They had the option of fish, but I remember from last time that they give you the whole fish, head and all, so didn’t want to deal with that again.
I wasn’t planning to go to the mass at the church but just as I was leaving dinner, the bells were ringing and the church was right there, so I took it as a sign. I went in and all the standing was killing me (as I am sure it was with the other pilgrims). The mass is all in Spanish, except for a pilgrims blessing at the end where they say a couple sentences in english and other languages. I only caught a few words of it and all I remember is the word “journey.”
After mass, it was back to the room. This new hostel is awesome. When Jörg and I were hospitaleros in 2014, we drove here and asked to look around as we stayed in the old monastery last time. Because I made a reservation early, I got a bed on the 3rd floor, which was all single beds, it was absolute luxury (in pilgrim terms) The wifi was very strong so I could upload the blogs I had already written but I had no energy left to compile the videos.
Ok it’s 10pm and the lights are out, so time for bed.
TTYLRead more
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- Friday, September 1, 2023
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Altitude: 878 m
SpainAurizberri42°58’47” N 1°22’16” W
Day 3 - Roncesvalles to Espinal - 7km

I had an AWESOME sleep. I only woke a couple times to go to the washroom and right back to sleep.
Today was a planned short day. I made a reservation in Espinal which is only 7.5km from Roncesvalles but I thought it is important to give my muscles the break early. When I awoke, I felt pretty good and thought I could probably do the whole 20km to Zubiri but I won’t. At about 3km, I started to feel those glutes and hips again so I was thankful I only had to go 7.5km.
Because it was so short, I didn’t want to arrive too early, so I left around 9am. This was wonderful as there were only about 3 of us on the trail at that time, so I got to walk alone for most of the way.
When I almost hit Espinal, I guy stopped on a bike. He was a chef at one of the bars in town and was saying if you want a break, then he is the second bar in town. Ironically, I was just thinking earlier today about the restaurants and how hard it would be for the second one as the first one pilgrims see, they go to as they are not sure there is another one. So I decided to go to his place. Only a couple other pilgrims where there where the other one was quite full.
Check-in at the albergue is at 2:00pm so I had time to kill so I went to the other bar. It is more expensive, but definitely nicer. I sat with Maria and Antonio from Italy. They also had only done the short distance today.
I don’t have a reservation in Zubiri. I am a little concerned about that so I looked up if it was even possible on booking.com and they were full. There is a municipal albergue that has 72 places that doesn’t take reservations so I should be fine. If I leave early, I already have a 7.5km head start for most people that want to stay there so I should be able to get a bed.
What worries me more is that the forecast is rain. The volume of rain in the forecast has gone down since I looked a week ago, but it is still rain. This part is know to be very slippery when wet and is about 500m down.
Pilgrim’s dinner was at 7pm today and was pasta, pork and french fries with yogurt for desert. I think it will soon be time to get my own dinners.
Tomorrow will be a challenge. It is best I be off to bed.
TTYLRead more
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- Saturday, September 2, 2023 at 4:27 PM
- 🌧 19 °C
- Altitude: 530 m
SpainZubiri42°55’54” N 1°30’16” W
Day 4 - Espinal to Zubiri - 16km

I am in Zubiri ... barely!
I had a rough night for sleep. For some reason I had a tickle in my throat that just wouldn’t stop so I kept coughing. Because I was in a room with at least 15 people, I kept leaving the room when it started up so I didn’t wake people. Eventually it settled down and I slept. I was up at 6:30am and out the door and on my way for 7:30am. Today I wanted to try and get ahead of the forecasted rain. I was not successful.
Actually, I was a little successful. There was no rain when I left, but was all wet outside because of the overnight thunderstorms. The rain started around 8:30am. I bought a rain jacket off amazon so today was the test. Also, I have a rain cover for my backpack which has never been used, so today was the test. They both failed.
Ok, saying they failed is not fair, they didn’t stand a fighting chance against the downpour of rain we got. It wasn’t too heavy at the start and everything seemed to remain dry when I hit the 5km mark and I stopped for breakfast at Cafe Juan’s in Viscarreta.
After my Jamón Bocadillo and Coke Zero I was on my way. The rain had lightened up so I thought it is a great time to get moving. That was short lived. When I hit Linzoain, 2km away, the skies opened up so I took shelter behind a home under an overhang. The wind was blowing the other way so I stayed mostly dry. I was starting to think about calling the hotel there in town and staying the night. I was looking up the number when Emily from Taiwan joined me in my special sheltered spot. It was only 7km to Zubiri she said and we can get a bed at the municipal albergue (they don’t take reservations) I tried to warn her that the last 4km were downhill on a very rocky path which is slippery when wet. After some thought, I realized that it is still going to be wet and rainy tomorrow so I should just get it over with today. I have been stressing about this day for at least a week when I saw the forecast, it was time to get it done. The rain started to ease off a bit, so time to start moving again.
That didn’t last long before the downpour came again and no more sheltered areas. Just had to keep going. The water was just flowing down the hill like a river, and I am not exaggerating. I wanted to capture it on video but I needed to remain focused and not pull out my camera. I could feel I was already soaked through my jacket and the feet were soaking wet. They are waterproof boots but doesn’t help when you have to walk-in puddles that come above the top.
I started to think about the pain and suffering and I thought to myself “This is absolutely nothing compared to the pain that Jörg and I both endured over the last year. I can get through this.” With about 4km to go, I found the spot where Jörg and I stopped for lunch last time we were here. It really is the only place to stop and sit on this part of the trek. I sat on the rock and started to talk to Jörg and cry. I said I couldn’t stay too long as I may get sick if I don’t keep moving to get out of the rain and cold. I also thought, maybe that isn’t so bad, then I could join him. I decided to leave after 5 mins. It was good to give my legs the rest for the last 4km.
After Alto de Erro, the challenge was real. The water was flowing down the path like a river, at least 5-10cm high in some areas. Most of the time, you had to just walk through it. In fact, I found it much easier to walk in the river parts than on the wet exposed rock. I am sure there is some explanation as to why, but I was just glad as I felt like it wasn’t as bad as it could have been.
I had a lot of slips along the way but no falls anywhere on the way down except ... when I was literally 5 metres from town. The difficult part of the path was done and there was some smooth limestone slab on a slant. It was not a difficult part at all. I think that maybe one of my hiking poles gave way as when 5 people all helped me get up (how embarrassing!), the one hiking pole was loose and moved to a shorter spot. I have a cut on my knee and elbow. Both cuts are not big, but I think they will both bruise.
I arrived at the Municipal Albergue where there was a long line. I joined the line and as soon as I got in the door, the guy announced “only 6 beds left” so I made it just in time.
I am in a room with 3 other ladies, and guess what, one is Emily from earlier in the day along with Anchi from Taiwan and Mary from the USA. Mary had asked me why I was doing the camino, so I told them all the story of Jörg. They were wonderful. They wanted to hear all about him, see his pictures and it felt absolutely wonderful to talk about him like that. We all went out for dinner and toasted Jörg and love with a glass of red wine from Mary. We are now sitting in the room listening to Anchi’s music, relaxing and preparing for the days ahead. We will all be stopping different places tomorrow, but I am blessed to have met them today!
TTYLRead more
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- Sunday, September 3, 2023 at 4:35 PM
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 428 m
SpainAtarrabia42°50’11” N 1°36’15” W
Day 5 - Zubiri to Trinidad de Arre - 17k

After 17km of walking, I am settled in an albergue just before Pamplona. I had decided last night that I didn’t want to stay in Pamplona so I had sent a WhatsApp to the albergue yesterday to reserve and it went smooth. I had put it in Google translate first.
The rain held off today but threatened most of the day. It is now sunny and a blue sky. I am waiting for all my clothes in the dryer. Yesterday none of the clothes dried so I stuffed them in my pack wet. Most of them were clean but I decided it best to wash them all in a machine and dry in the dryer to be sure they don’t stink. My backpack and boots are sitting in the sun right now to dry as well.
I think rain is in the forecast in a couple days again, but I think I will be more prepared for it this time.
The hike today was somewhat hard but I think it was made harder just because my muscles are tired. The start out of Zubiri was the same type of rocky path we encountered on the way in. It then was various types of path including some roadway, more rocks, dirt (or should I say mud from the rain yesterday).
I stopped in Larrasoaña today for breakfast but it wasn’t quite obvious where to find a cafe. Some pilgrims pointed me in the right direction but the place was about to close. I got a coke and a couple chocolate croissants. He let me sit out on his patio while he was closing and going to bed. It was actually nice to sit there all alone. At one point I realized all the flags that were along the fence. They were various countries and you can see where people had signed them. What a great idea.
I stopped again 4km later in Zuriain where there was an open cafe serving food and indoor and outdoor sitting. There was no menu displayed anywhere but you can see people were ordering a variety of things. I decided to just have what he had on display, a couple small sausages on a piece of baguette. I did order a hot chocolate as well, and looked that up on google translate first to order it. While at lunch, I took off my boots and socks, the boots were still wet so I decided to let my feet dry and put on fresh socks.
The hike today was only supposed to be around 15km, but my gps was already at 17 and the albergue was no where in sight. When you know the end of the path is near, it just seems to take forever to get there. Then it appeared, the bridge, river and albergue.
Last night I had planned my next few days. I was getting frightened of having to rush for a bed so I booked them on booking.com. My destination tomorrow is Urtega (20km) and the next day is Ciraqui (15km). Both are places Jörg and I stayed before. After that, will be Estella but I am not booking as I want to stay at the Albergue where Jörg and I were hospitaleros and it is a Donitivo.
After Estella, not sure but will do some planning tonight. At that time I think it will soon be time for a day off and a hotel!
TTYLRead more
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- Monday, September 4, 2023 at 7:29 PM
- ☀️ 28 °C
- Altitude: 491 m
SpainUterga42°42’30” N 1°45’41” W
Day 6 - Trinidad de Arre to Urtega - 24k

AM I FN CRAZY TO DO THIS?!!!
I am in Urtega now. Just barely out of my shower and with very little energy to do much. I forced myself to wash my clothes because they stink! I did 24 km today with a start time of around 7:30am to a finish time around 5pm. A lot of mistakes were made today given it was a long day ... not enough water, not enough food and not enough sunscreen.
I started the day strong, about .5km in, I ran into a couple ladies from my albergue. They were going for breakfast and told me I was going the wrong way. I thought it was right but I doubled back, and sure enough, I was right ... those B*&%^es added 1km to my day for nothing! :-)
I was going a good pace at the start, in fact 4.5km per hour which is great given I have been averaging 3km per hour most days. It was straight city sidewalk walking so it was a wonderful break. I got into Pamplona at about 8:30 and stopped for a croissant with ham and cheese and a coke. I bought some sweet lemon treat to take with me. Pharmacies opened at 9 so I stopped in to grab some bandaids, throat lozenges , and voltarin.
I then stopped at the pilgrims store and bought a few other necessities and then I was off. I still had my full bottle of water but hadn’t had any yet but figured I was fine. About 5 km outside of town in Cizur Menor I stopped and drank all the water and about half of my sweet treat and figured there was a fountain in town. I didn’t find one so I kept going.
I was thinking of Jörg often. I found the spot where we stopped for our picnic lunch so reminisced a little but kept on moving (read more about it in the throwback at the end).
Well, now I was getting tired and slow. No water and little food. I wasn’t hungry but I know I should eat for fuel. It wasn’t until another 5km that there was a little town that had a fountain. I drank a full bottle (700ml), then filled it again. I passed through town and they had food for sale but I wasn’t hungry so I decided not to stop. That was a mistake, again, even though I wasn’t hungry, I needed it for fuel.
I was really slow going and it was all uphill now to the Alto del Perdón (790m high). Just before the top, I found the fountain were I had stopped before. It was a little overgrown now and I remember the picture clearly from 2009 with me looking exhausted ... I absolutely know why now, I had completely forgotten how difficult the climb was.
I made it to the top and rested there for about 30 minutes. A tour bus stopped and people poured out to take pictures. I was sitting with a German lady (Cordelia I think) and we both joked that they must be excited to see real pilgrims and wonder how many took pictures of us.
It was now 4pm, very very late to still be walking in the Spain heat. There is a reason they take an afternoon siesta, no one should be out here. I had 3.6km to go and it was downhill now, so decided it best to push off. The downhill was just as hard. It was all stones and I was needing to watch every step. About 1km outside of town, I stopped one more time in the shade and drank the last sip of water I had. It was uphill again into town but I made it.
This is the most exhausted I have been, even more tired than the Pyrenees hike. I just didn’t have enough energy (food and water). I won’t make that mistake again.
Dinner was good, lots of protein, egg, tuna, chicken. Time for sleep.
TTYL
Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal
Today we awoke at 6am. I took my time as my back and ankle still hurt. We had breakfast which was bread, jam and cheese (I am sooooo sick of bread!!!!). We left around 7:45am. We arrived at Cirquar Minor in about an hour and half and my ankle was a little sore. We stopped for about 30 mins. I decided to go on (after we put more cream on my ankle).
I was very surprised but my ankle was not so bad now and my energy was good. At one point, I was tired and Joerg looked at me and said “we stop here in this field for lunch.” He blew up his air mattress and when I sat down all tired and exhausted, I looked up and saw the famous ruins right there in our view. It was beautiful. It was exactly what I needed. I told Joerg that he was heaven sent (and then I had to explain what it meant). He truly is a blessing.Read more

TravelerI hadn’t read your all caps at the start and just scrolled back up to look at the pics and spotted you first sentence.! Oh Julie, you might be a little crazy… but I was just thinking this morning how admirable it is that your are doing this crazy thing. Really, I witness such strength and tenacity! A step at a time as they say… hopefully the small memories along the way are good fodder for your heart.
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- Tuesday, September 5, 2023 at 3:51 PM
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Altitude: 490 m
SpainCirauqui42°40’33” N 1°53’32” W
Day 7 - Urtega to Cirauqui - 15km

Today was a much easier day. One reason is I was more prepared, I forced myself to eat and drink and second, Christina walked with me all day. It was very nice getting to know her today. She is from Denmark and has a 3 month leave from work.
Had breakfast, if you can call it that, A piece of bread with butter and jam and a small croissant, but I am not complaining, at least I put food in my mouth. I set off just after 7:30am and was already on the wrong path within 10 mins. Not far though, so when I got back on track, Christina was just ahead of me. We walked about the same pace (though not on the uphills, she was faster.)
We were thinking of doing the Eunate option but we got to Obanos and realized we missed the turn off. We had a nice break in Puente la Reina, where I had a coke and tortilla. We sat at a table with a lady who had sprained her ankle who was taking a taxi for a few days and her friends are walking.
We stopped again in Maneru and I wasn’t hungry but had a small sandwich. We sat for a good 45 minutes, relaxing. Only 2.6km left and got into the albergue around 2. I am in the same room that Jörg and I were in but not the same bed. There is a nice couple in the bunk beds that we had who fell in love on the camino 4 years ago. How wonderful is that?!
Ok. A little less stressed today. I am just waiting for dinner and relaxing some more.
TTYL
Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal
Today we started out by 7:15. Before we left, I listened to Desiderata with Joerg on the IPod.
After the usual shower and washing of clothes, Joerg and I went for a little walk. At one point I told him to go on without me, I wanted to just find a quiet bench and write in my journal and read. So here I am. I was thinking a lot about this today. Joerg always walks ahead and I don’t really have the freedom to stop where I want. I sometimes stop and take a picture but if I wanted to stop for any length of time, I couldn’t because Joerg would be waiting. I am tempted to tell him that we should go separately and just agree to meet up at the next stop (i.e. where we are sleeping).
The downside to this is that I do really enjoy his company and he takes care of me and I love that. I have never had someone do that for me before and I really like it. I have finally realized that I don’t need to always prove to myself and the world that I am strong and independent. I know it and so do most of the people who meet me. So why not enjoy having someone take care of me. One of the problems is that I love Joerg so much that it hurts. I know he cares very deeply for me and is showing me affection when he can (with hugs and smiles etc.) but I want more. I want a relationship. I want to kiss him, hold him and be with him.Read more
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- Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 3:47 PM
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 436 m
SpainEstella-Lizarra42°40’22” N 2°2’0” W
Day 8 - Cirauqui to Estella - 16km

I am in Estella again. I feel like this is Jörg’s and my town. There are other special places along the camino like where we first kissed, etc. but here we lived for 2 weeks as hospitaleros so I can feel his strong presence. I have decided to take my day off now. It is now 8 days of hiking so time for a day off, and this is the perfect place to do that. In fact, I am staying in a hotel right now with Christina. She had booked a hotel which happened to have an adjoining room so I am sharing it with her. What luxury, using real towels and just spreading my crap everywhere is wonderful. Tomorrow I am going to stay in the parish albergue where we were volunteers.
We had set off just before 8am. The day was a pretty steady pace. I think I discovered today I don’t like hills. In the past, I didn’t mind going uphill, but I hated going downhill. Now that my knees don’t hurt going downhill, I can start to hate uphill. The funny thing is, of course, since the Pyrenees, everything we encounter is like an ant hill in comparison, but it feels like Mount Everest to me. It will get easier I am sure.
We stopped in Lorca (in about 6km) for a breakfast break. I had my daily Coke Zero and I had a packed lunch from the albergue. We were then off again. Our next break was 4km again. This time we stopped in Villatuerta at a bar, which was clearly only locals, so you can tell they didn’t appreciate our company. We just had a coke and rest. It was meant to be a short break, but we got to talking and lost track of time. It was already past noon and we thought we would be in Estella by noon.
We arrived at the hotel around 2. We showered, rested and then headed out to get a drink as we were planning to meet Kangmi (from South Korea) at 6:30 for dinner. We decided to stop by my parish albergue to see if there was a mass at San Miguel Church (Jörg and I went everyday when hospitaleros). She said no. We then wandered over to the church to see if we could at least go in and they said it was closed and then the organizer came and talked to us to say there was a concert tonight. She said there were still tickets. So we decided that was perfect.
We went for a quick bite to eat and met up with Kangmi to go to the concert. It was awesome. It was only three instruments and one singer. The only instrument I could identify was the trumpet, the others were very unique. One was guitar like and the other was a type of horn I guess. It lasted just over an hour and was such a special treat. There were going to be 7 concerts this week at different venues. They are based on the 7 deadly sins and today was Pride/Vanity. The theme was perfume so throughout the concert (for each song), some ladies would wave over our head some cloth pieces that were soaked in different perfumes. Most of the time you would just smell them, but now and again, you would feel a drop. It was quite unique. At the end, when were leaving, we met up with the organizer again and she was excited to see us. Gave us all hugs and said “we hug here in Spain”.
The three of us then went out for a drink after and met up with Cornelia from Germany. It was a nice evening chatting. I am still surprised when I see all the locals out so late. On the walk back to our hotel around 10pm there were children playing in the square.
It was Christina’s birthday today and it was great to spend the special day with her. She will be off tomorrow so we will miss each other’s company, but I am sure we will meet up again somewhere along the way.
Now time for bed. Check out isn’t until 11am so I am going to enjoy a slow morning.
TTYLRead more
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- Thursday, September 7, 2023 at 6:01 PM
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Altitude: 437 m
SpainEstella-Lizarra42°40’20” N 2°1’42” W
Day 9 - Estella - Day Off

I am kind of down today. It is my day off in Estella but I am really missing Jörg. I am staying in the albergue that we hosted together back in 2014. The memories are just flooding back. I feel kind of numb. I took a nap this afternoon thinking it may help a bit, but not really. Maybe a good sleep tonight might do the trick. Tomorrow I have 20km planned and it is around 20km for at least the next 5 days but I think I am physically ready (emotionally ready is another matter). I just want to be sure to get as far as I can before the heat of the day. The temperatures are consistently around 30. I am pretty sure tomorrow I will need to break out the hat and possibly the music.
I didn’t really take pictures today so today’s pictures are memories from 2014.
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- Friday, September 8, 2023 at 5:47 PM
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Altitude: 447 m
SpainLos Arcos42°34’9” N 2°11’39” W
Day 10 - Estella to Los Arcos - 23km

My feet are so tired! I am in Los Arcos after almost 24km.
I started out this morning around 7am and it was still dark. That was ok as we were walking through the city first. It was very hard leaving the albergue in Estella. I kept touching the walls to feel Jörg. I had a very strong urge to hug the building but I didn’t.
Just outside of Estella is the famous fountain that dispenses wine. Even though it was only 8 in the morning, I still filled up my shell and drank from it. The shell I am carrying this trip is actually Jörg’s shell from 2009.
The first 10km went pretty quickly. It was variable terrain and lots of shade so it was pretty good. I stopped at Villamayor de Monjardin. It was a place where Jörg and I stayed overnight in 2009. I visited the albergue and stopped and had lunch there.
After that, the next 12 km was mostly gravel road and very little shade. I decided to put on my headset and listen to some music to get through it. At one point, the song “Country Roads” came on and I started to cry. It was the words “Country roads, take me home, to a place, where I belong ...” that hit me. I was crying because I feel like don’t have a home. Jörg was my home. Jörg was the place where I belonged. There is nowhere for those country roads to take me, but to just wander.
At about the 16km mark there was a food truck tucked in some trees. They were offering food including Hagen daze ice cream, what a treat. When I approached to order, they asked me if I was Canadian. I said yes, and they gave me a Canadian flag pin. It turns out the owner is a Canadian from the Vancouver Area. Just when I was feeling like I didn’t have a home, and felling a little lost in this foreign country where I don’t speak the language, I was suddenly special because I was Canadian. Perfect timing.
About 3km from the end, there was some more shade and some benches so I took the opportunity to rest again. My feet are tired and there are some blisters on my toes. The blisters aren’t too bad, just the tired feet.
I have been reading my old journal from 2009 and it almost always starts with “I am in pain, back, ankle, calf ...”. I am really surprised that I only have tired muscles, no real pain. I was getting a type of burning in my left quad, but one night I did some major rolling on the area and it is no longer bothering me for now. I think the slow start was the best thing for me.
I am in Los Arcos and the albergue is full. It was full when I arrived, but I had called yesterday to reserve. It really is crazy these days about the reserving. Tomorrow I plan to stop before Logroño, so it may not be so bad, but I have a reservation for Viana anyway. She says it is reserved until 2pm. Often people reserve a couple spots and then just cancel if they get something else, and just take the loss. The problem is, someone else who wanted that spot was told it was full and walked away. There’s got to be a better system.
I am thinking about food now, but my feet are so tired, and it is about 2 blocks away ... I guess I better go.
TTYLRead more
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- Saturday, September 9, 2023 at 5:58 PM
- ⛅ 31 °C
- Altitude: 454 m
SpainOndarre42°30’54” N 2°22’6” W
Day 11 - Los Arcos to Viana - 18km

Today felt like a long day again, even though it was only 18km and I started at 6:30am.
It was a rough night of sleep. It was so hot and lots of snorers in the room. I finally broke out the ear plugs and they work well. The only trouble, is I could also not hear myself, so I wasn’t sure if I was being loud with all my moving around.
My plan was to leave around 7, but everyone was already awake at 5:30 and it was impossible to sleep anymore so I decided I might as well get going as well. At 6:30am it is still dark and I wore my headlamp. It was actually quite nice. Just the right temperature and the path was a straight gravel path so easy to navigate. The one downside is all the moths and flies that hang out in front of your face because of the light.
I was at Sansol (7km) before 9am and stopped for the daily Coke Zero and a banana. I didn’t eat the banana, I instead ate the chocolate muffin I had bought yesterday along with the bread I had left over.
I was off again, with a few rest stops and had a bigger stop with a sandwich at a food truck about 5km from the end. I arrived in Viana just after 1pm. I still felt the effects of the sun as if I had been walking all day in the sun. I have to be sure to drink lots of water today, perhaps I am suffering a bit of heat stroke.
I was originally going to go 22km tomorrow, but I have decided to break it up to two days instead. I have a few blisters on my toes that are bothering me a little so giving them a break should be good.
I took a nap this afternoon (I don’t often do that), so maybe that will help. I am in a top bunk today in a room of woman, hopefully I will catch up more on my sleep.
TTYL
Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal
Today was hell!!! I am in such a bad mood at the moment, I am hoping this beer will help. We were up at 6am as usual and again as usual, I was in a ton of pain. I packed by 6:30 and was down for breakfast. Today was a day for tears. We were off by 7am. Most of the walk today was on gravel roads which was hard because it was kind of boring. …
I convinced Joerg to stop in Torres del Rio and then do the 20km to Logrono tomorrow. I am going to stay in Logrono an extra day. It sounds like Joerg does not want to so it may be where we part. I thought he understood that I wanted to stop once a week. I guess he didn’t. Anyway, we will see. My heart is aching as I love him and I love his company but I cannot keep his pace. I think it is time to let him go.
Well, the rest of the evening was fine. I am determined to get a hotel room tomorrow. We went for a little walk then dinner. We were pretty quiet after the fight we had at the entrance to the hostel. I said something along the lines that tomorrow would be our last day together and he said that was fine as there were lots of other woman on the trail. I then said “That is fine, I have been trying for 10 months now and I give up.”
Anyway, when dinner was complete we were sitting alone and I apologized for not being nice and he apologized as well. After that we were better. Dinner ended about 9pm, we then headed off to bed.Read more
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- Sunday, September 10, 2023 at 5:23 PM
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Altitude: 402 m
SpainPlaza del Mercado42°27’59” N 2°26’51” W
Day 12 - Viana to Logroño - 10km

I am in Logroño, the city that wouldn’t accept Jörg and me. This was the city that I had decided to get a hotel but after going to a couple and them saying they were full, we decided to leave the city and make the extra trek to Navarrete.
It is Sunday so most things are closed except the restaurants and patios which are full of people. I arrived around 11:30am but the albergue didn’t open until 2, so I had to just wander around (however, I could leave my backpack). I have very little energy and am missing Jörg like crazy today.
After checking in, I took a shower and settled in. I wanted to wash my clothes but there were people waiting to shower, so I decided I will do it tomorrow in Navarrete. I realized when I unpacked, that I left one of my walking t-shirts in the last albergue so now I only have one shirt. I will just wear it again tomorrow without washing.
When sitting in one of the plazas, I accidentally left my phone behind. My watch had sent me a warning that I have been away too long from my phone then I realized exactly where I left it. I quickly walked back there and the people who were sitting near me had found it and picked it up for me. I could hear Jörg’s voice saying “You are so lucky Julie”
It is 4:30 now and I am bored out of my head. I really don’t enjoy the big cities along the camino. If I was here in different circumstances, I am sure I would visit lots of tourist things, but I don’t want to walk too far. I want to conserve energy where I can.
I ran into Kangmi and we may have dinner together. Other than that, I am signing off now. Tomorrow is a special day (which is why I think I am feeling a little down today). Navarrete is where Jörg first kissed me. But you will need to wait to tomorrow to hear all about that.
TTYLRead more

TravelerJörg told me Julie often loses her cell phone. But she always find it. 🍀🍀🍀 She is always lucky. That s why i bought you a cell phone case.😀💕

I hadn't realized this. Glad for the "always lucky" and for the cell phone case. [Aunt Mavis]

Julie RosenthalHaha, couldn’t bring the case with me this time, just room to carry it in my pocket.
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- Monday, September 11, 2023 at 1:49 PM
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 514 m
SpainIglesia Parroquial de la Asuncion de Maria42°25’45” N 2°33’40” W
Day 13 - Logroño to Navarrete - 13km

Today is the day. I am in Navarrete and I have decided last minute to stay in the same hotel as Jörg and I did 14 years ago.
I was full of energy this morning and ready to tackle any hike, and it turns out that the walk today was quite easy, mostly paved pathway. It was also cloudy and a little wet from overnight thunderstorms, so the heat wasn’t a factor either. All perfect to arrive in this perfect place.
Can I take this opportunity though to rant about a pet peeve I have. I usually like to break every 4-5 kms - after 8-10 kms I like to take off my boots for a bit. It helps ease the muscles and rest the feet and gives me strength to keep going. Invariably, almost every time, someone asks me “are you ok?” I don’t think I look that worn out or sore. Today someone asked me when I was sitting on a bench, eating an apple, after only 5kms. I know I didn’t look worn out for sure this time as I just started and it was an easy part. My pet peeve is I am sure that they wouldn’t ask a man sitting alone or a young athletic woman. It isn’t only men who ask, women ask as well. And really, has anyone ever answered “no, can you help me?”. I would understand if they just saw me fall or something, but just sitting and taking a break on the trail, it is a little too much. Ok, rant over.
I am sitting waiting for my laundry to be done. They wash clothes here, but don’t dry, so I am waiting to get them so I can hang them out on my private balcony to dry. Then I am going to wander around town. Jörg and I didn’t see much of the town as we arrived late in the afternoon so by the time we showered and had dinner, it was dark.
It turns out the hotel hung my clothes for me in their laundry room so I went out and had a pilgrims meal early. The usual time is around 7pm but then it is so much food just before bed. I then went in the church in the town and lit a candle for Jörg. My last stop was to the Pharmacy. I have pimples again (at age 55, they are never ending), plus I have a few small blisters so I wanted to ask the best way to treat them (so many different views on this subject). Basically, I keep doing what I am doing, but got more supplies.
I am in for the night. I have decided to treat myself and ship my bag for tomorrow. I am doing a 20km day and they said rain so why not. So many people do it now. It will be a big help for me tomorrow.
TTYL
Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal
Right now I am in a hotel room (1 star mind you) in Navarette. When the day started, it was our plan to go to Logroño which was 20km. The morning started as usual with pain. I had woken up every couple hours and at 4am I decided to take an Aleve.
We wanted to stay in Lograno but when we went into several hotels they took one look at us and my bed bug bites and said they were full. Rather than try and find a hostel in town we decided to just keep walking. Navarrete was 12kms more.
When we arrived in the town, Joerg turned to me with arms open wide waiting for a hug. After we hugged, he took my hand and held it for a good minute. At one point, I could see he was a little shy so he started to swing the hand he was holding. Once we got into town, it was like a big family reunion. So many people we had met along the way were here.
I still wanted a hotel room and we saw a one star place and I decided to let Joerg take a look. It was good and only 25E. They are actually doing my laundry right now for 5E. After we checked into the hotel and we were sitting on the edge of the bed, I told him it wasn’t the hotel I originally wanted, but it was nice and I leaned over and kissed his cheek.
Throwback to the next morning in Navarrete
Well, today my life has changed forever. I woke up at 7:10am and it was nice not to hear people packing bags and not having to pack my bag by flashlight. Joerg woke up too and we both said “one more hour” and he kissed me. When we awoke again, we just lied in bed and relaxed. It was only a kiss, but I know it was a big step for Joerg. It moves our relationship from friends to something more.Read more
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- Tuesday, September 12, 2023 at 4:27 PM
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 545 m
SpainAzofra42°25’30” N 2°48’1” W
Day 14 - Navarrete to Azofra - 23km

The day without my backpack was a pretty good day. The forecasted rain didn’t materialize until now (it is almost 4pm). In fact, the afternoon got a little sunny and hot for the last 6km.
I woke up at 6am to my alarm. I wanted to be on the road by 7am at the latest so I could get ahead of the rain. It was still dark so once I left Navarrete, I needed to put on my headlamp again for about 15 minutes.
The province of La Roja (which I am in now), is known for their wines and I feel like the last two days has been almost all vineyards. I am not complaining though, the grapes are beautiful to look at, especially on the rolling hills.
I took an option today to go to ventosa. It is about an additional 1km, but it had a cafe and a bathroom which I desperately needed. It was 7km before we reached the cafe and I had my first rest. I was definitely walking much faster without my big backpack and wondered if it would catch up to me at the end of the day. After I used the facilities and nourished myself with tortilla and Coke Zero, I was on my way.
I reached Najera around noon. I stopped there and had a longer break as I had 6km to go and the rain didn’t look like it was threatening at all. Most people will be staying in this larger city, but Jörg and I weren’t fans the first time around, so I decided to not stay this time.
I arrived in Afofra around 2pm and my backpack wasn’t here. I wasn’t too worried as I have an AirTag inside the bag and it said it was about 8kms away. It showed up about 10 minutes later which was great. I showered, washed clothes and headed into town for food. The restaurant wouldn’t feed me. They said they have a pilgrim meal at 6pm so I went across the street to the supermarket, which was the size of my bedroom, only a few people could fit at a time. I picked up some snacks for the trail tomorrow and enjoyed a small bag of plain potato chips.
Now I am just waiting for my laundry to dry and the pilgrims meal. I am going to take my backpack with me tomorrow. As much as it was easier to walk, I missed it. The day pack I have is only built for carrying things in the evening, no ventilation so my back got hot and wet real fast! In fact, my back started to hurt a little and I wondered if it was the smaller backpack as well, as all the weight would be on the shoulders instead of the hips.
I haven’t made a reservation for tomorrow but I am not too worried. I am only going 15km and I am 6km ahead of the rest of the people who are going to try and stay there. I get to see the church with the chickens, but I will tell you about that tomorrow.
TTYLRead more
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- Wednesday, September 13, 2023 at 3:28 PM
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 651 m
SpainSanto Domingo de la Calzada42°26’28” N 2°57’9” W
Day 15 - Azofra to Santo Domingo - 15km

Today was a piece of cake. I hadn’t decided how far to go, it was between 15km or 22km. I felt very good and knew I could go the 22, but at the 15km mark, I am in Santo Domingo, which is a small city and I needed a few necessities (for one my deodorant ran out yesterday!). I also wanted a new t-shirt as I left one a couple albergues ago and really wanted a second one on hand (and not always wear my bright coral one).
I arrived at noon and who should be there just before me, my friend Emario from Italy (though I am pretty sure that is not how you spell it, but that is how it sounds). I met Emario just outside of Pamplona. We were the first two to arrive at our albergue. I tried talking to him, but he said “no speak English”. Later that day, there was a pilgrims meal at another albergue, so I went, and who should be there, Emario sitting across from me at the dinner table. I thought I would make another attempt to talk to him. I pulled out Google translate and asked him what brings him to the camino. He replied he had been waiting 30 years to do the camino. He talked some more, but Google translate cut him off. I tried a bit more with google, but the technology wasn’t smooth and I can tell he didn’t really want to talk much so I let it be.
I would then see him every so often on the trail and give a nod and say Buongiorno. I would see him next in Viana and he sat beside me at the dinner table this time. I decided to pull out google translate and I typed in “What is your name, for the next time I see you.” He smiled, and gave me his name and I introduced myself.
Now when we see each other on the trail, we say hello and our names. Today I ran into him a few times on the trail. At one point he was stopped for a rest as I was walking by and he held up his phone to take my picture so I did a pose. I then ran into him checking in at the albergue so I took the opportunity to take a selfie with him. It is funny, we don’t know anything about each other or speak each other’s language but just a friendly hello and smile can make all the difference.
After settling into the Albergue, I went to find the grocery store. I decided to buy a few things for dinner instead of going out to a restaurant tonight. Don’t get too excited, it is nothing to actually cook, are you crazy?! :-) I bought a chicken ceaser salad and some bread and ham. I also got myself a new hiking t-shirt.
Now it is time to go see the chickens at the cathedral. Unfortunately they were a little shy when I was there. I could only see a piece of them and if you look closely, you can see them in the bottom right corner. The really short version of the story is that a young son was hanged for spurning the love of a royal girl so he was hanged. His parents were on their way to Santiago so they left heartbroken. When they returned, their son was still hanging but he was alive. They went to the local authority to cut him down because he is alive and the man said “he is no more alive than these chickens I am about to eat.” Then the chickens came to life and started clucking. It is said these chickens are direct descendants of those original chickens.
After the cathedral, I went up in the clock tower. It was 154 steps but it wasn’t too bad and worth it to see the view of the city from above and here the bells at 5pm.
Ok, I am ready to relax and read about the day ahead. I would like to start doing longer days, but we will see.
TTYLRead more
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- Thursday, September 14, 2023 at 3:54 PM
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 791 m
SpainBelorado42°25’5” N 3°10’59” W
Day 16 - Santo Domingo to Belorado -22km

I am in Belorado, the same albergue Jörg and I stayed in 2009 relaxing with a rye and coke. I was reading my journal last night from that time and decided to try and stay here again. I have a special memory here so be sure to read the throwback at the end.
The walk was 22km today, but about every 5-7km was a town so I stopped in each one. Funny thing is, I changed up my routine this morning and had breakfast before I left but I was really struggling for energy early in the morning. The first break was at 6km and I had an orange juice and chocolate croissant. I didn’t have my coke at that time and I think that made a difference in energy level too.
Last night in my albergue room, there were two men, at opposite sides of the room that were sick with colds so I overdosed on orange juice today to hopefully hold off catching it. My bed was right in the middle of the room, I think far enough away from them but we will see in a couple days.
I had a strange dream last night. I dreamt that I was going to die while on the camino. I was diagnosed and I had only one day. I was then all of a sudden at home and I wanted to take all the money out of my bank account. The bank had asked why, and I calmly said “ I am going to die.” It was very interesting as there was no fear at all, it was all just a matter of fact. I believe I actually felt good about it.
One observation I have made is that I cannot think of Jörg as an angel yet. I feel like I get some signs from him, that he is with me, but I don’t think of him as an angel looking over me. There have been a few people in my life that I have lost that I loved dearly and I think of them fondly as angels guiding my way. When I did the first camino, I had sewed a patch on my backpack with the letter M which represented my “M” angels: Marilyn (my mother), Minne (My grandmother) and Mabel (My aunt). I thank god I still have M4 with me! Also I know Uncle Donald is there watching out for me, but for some reason, I cannot accept Jörg there yet. I was thinking that maybe he is like Clarence (It’s a wonderful life), he doesn’t have his wings yet. I think he has to come back and show me that life is worth living, then he will get his wings and can be my guiding angel.
Tomorrow will be a short walk again. When I read back in my journal, Jörg and I did a big day climbing a hill at the end of the day and I was exhausted and had to sleep on the floor. I remember that I got bed bug bites from that place as well, so I decided to make tomorrow shorter, only 12km and then tackle the uphill 12km the next day when I am fresh and avoid staying at the albergue in San Juan de Ortega. It was a great experience, but I will leave a space for someone else to enjoy the garlic soup this time.
TTYL
Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal
Last night in Belgrado I read in bed for a long time, then decided to sleep. Because I wouldn’t see Joerg to say goodnight I left him a note that said “Joerg, Goodnight, Sweet Dreams XO (kiss) (hug), Love Julie”. I left the lighted pen with it on. I actually awoke when he came in. He smiled, put it above his head and we held hands before we slept. In the morning, he put the note in the fence at the hostel for everyone to see.Read more
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- Friday, September 15, 2023 at 4:04 PM
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Altitude: 959 m
SpainVillafranca-Montes de Oca42°23’19” N 3°18’36” W
Day 17 - Belorado to Villafranca Montes

I love my bed today! It is a single bed, with a short wall between the next bed and right beside the window. Luxury in terms of albergue living. I have arrived in Villafranca Montes de Oca. It was a very short hike so I really took my time. I tried to make it like a day off as tomorrow will be longer (I think). Shhh ... don’t tell anyone but I am not going to take a shower or wash my clothes. I am enjoying the break from those mundane tasks.
It is an overcast day today. We actually got a little bit of drizzle this morning. I believe there is supposed to be more tonight, but should be gone by the morning.
Really, nothing spectacular to write about today. A bit boring, which is exactly how I am liking it. In fact, I have been thinking of how I can just stay in my bed for the day until dinner, but I should get out and get a few groceries for lunch tomorrow.
But, instead of rambling about nothing, I will end this post now.
TTYLRead more
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- Saturday, September 16, 2023 at 5:35 PM
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 956 m
SpainAtapuerca42°22’39” N 3°30’25” W
Day 18 - Villafranca Montes to Atapuerca

Well, what a difference a day makes. Yesterday I was bragging about my great bed in the albergue but it turns out, it was one of my worst nights. I had someone wake me up twice by touching my feet, I am sure because of my snoring.
The first time was around 10pm. I had just fallen asleep. The lights were just turned out, so I could only see the body walking away but I couldn’t see who it was. So I felt bad and didn’t go back to sleep until 1am. I was out reading stuff on my phone when I decided I better go to sleep. So I go back to bed and at 1:30am, again, someone touched my feet to wake me up, again, I only saw a shadow but I said out loud, “Don’t touch me”. I have a feeling they were surprised that I saw them or knew I was touched. I decided to change direction in my bed and put my head where my feet were so that they would have to walk around me to touch any part of my body or touch my head (where I could react faster) They didn’t do it again, that I know of.
It was during the time that I was stewing in anger that I decided I am going to get private rooms instead of albergues. Really, everyone knows people snore (and I was definitely not the only one in the room snoring), so they should come prepared with ear plugs if they need them. I started to do the math, and quite often a private room is around $35-$40 euros. I pay $10-15 for the bunk bed, so really, in the scheme of things, it really isn’t much more money, and worth the piece of mind and comfort.
So I am settled in a private room in a pension. I have my own bathroom, I can come and go as I please and have quiet and privacy. The downside is I really am going to need to try and book ahead. I will stay in another albergue I am sure, when it is the only option, or the hotel is too expensive, but I will try to book private from now on.
The walk today was good. I did 18kms and feel pretty good. I get some strange aches, one in my right big toe, and the other in my left thigh, but if I take my break around each 5km mark, then they don’t bother me. Today I didn’t take a break until 6km so I suffered a little for a kilometre or two.
Tomorrow I head into Burgos. I already have booked a hotel there, the same one that Joerg and I stayed at when we were there. I am looking forward to that.
TTYLRead more
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- Sunday, September 17, 2023 at 9:33 PM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 871 m
SpainRío Vena42°20’33” N 3°41’54” W
Day 19 - Atapuerca to Burgos - 21km

I am resting in my 1 star luxury in Burgos after a long hot shower and exploring Burgos Cathedral.
I started off in the morning at 8am. I had planned to leave at that time as I wasn’t in a rush and I had a place booked already. Unfortunately, in the morning I saw the forecast and there was rain scheduled for noon. If I had seen that last night, I may have planned to leave earlier to try and avoid it.
Oh well, off we go, the first part was a climb out of town on a very rocky path. When crossing the top, I saw the labyrinth that we passed the first time. I have pictures but never remembered where it was.
Once down from the hill, it was a pretty easy going path. The next step was to find the riverside way into Burgos instead of the industry area. When it came time make our turn, there were a few of us looking at maps. We made the turn, and reality is that not very many people walked this way today.
When I got into Castañares I had to make a choice to walk by the river or walk where the businesses were. I decided to walk where the businesses were as it was now raining and I would have more opportunity to duck out of the rain if needed. I was partially correct. I forgot that it is Sunday and most businesses are closed, except for restaurants and bars.
It started to come down hard as I was passing a bar, so I went in. There were signs everywhere saying there is a 10 Euro minimum. I wasn’t hungry but I was wet and cold, so it was worth it. I ordered meatballs and rice salad. I did not enjoy either of them but the rain had slowed now so time to move on. I checked Google and I had an hour walk left.
It only rained a little more, and then stopped. I had found my hotel, checked in and flopped down on my bed. It was such an amazing feeling. I had no where I had to be, no one to meet, no one expected in the room, I could just empty my bag and leave everything anywhere I like and wander around naked.
The shower was huge and had a chair in it. I got undressed and had at least a 15 minute shower, then it was time to flop on the bed again. Checked Wifi and it was so fast, I am in heaven!
I did want to see the cathedral while here so I decided I better head out. As I was at the cathedral, I ran into Marie so we toured it together. We could download the app and listen /read the descriptions throughout the cathedral. It didn’t disappoint, but boy am I tired now!
Tomorrow will be a short day again. I want to do a little shopping here in Burgos and the shops don’t open until 10, so it will be a late start with a 12km walk.
Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s journal
The morning was kind of nice in Burgos. We stayed in bed well after 7pm watching everyone else pack up and go. We finally arose and was out the door by 7:45am. But before I go into the day, I have to tell you how nice it was last night sleeping beside him. At one point, he unzipped his sleeping bag and snuggled into me (spooning), it was so wonderful. After about 30 mins, he started to fall between the beds so I had to let him go but it was a wonderful memory.Read more
TravelerI have read the book from Hape Kerkeling.
Julie RosenthalIt is a great book. Especially the Canadian boots 😀
TravelerThanks for the great Video.