Toulon, France

We were leaving Italy and were going to head to a university town called Aix en Provence, north of Marseille. We had heard good things about this university town. But then Deanne realized that we're leaving the sea for good on this trip. Toulon seems like a perfect alternative to spend just a couple more days on the water. It's in Provence, on the sea, another university town, and not on the tourist trail, at least this time of year. We couldn't be happier.

And a lot of that has to do with the lodging we found. We're in a newly remodeled, spacious apartment on the 6th floor of a building with an actual elevator that holds us and luggage! The views are spectacular. What a rare treat! We were met by Annik, a charming elderly French woman who owned the apartment. She gave us The Grand Tour and told us what sites we should see. If not for her, we probably wouldn't have taken the ferry to nearby Sablettes Beach.

This city is lacking in a lot of the historic old buildings that we've been seeing because it was bombed extensively in world War II. The historic center is mostly a pedestrian area and is chock full of quaint shops. Annik said there's been an effort over the last 20 years to revitalize the city and especially in the last 3 or 4 years. It really shows. This is a lovely town and the center is a short distance from our apartment.

There's a fruit and vegetable market that sets up and takes down 6 days a week on the main pedestrian street. And the harbor is full of amazing and inexpensive (for an American Midwesterner) seafood restaurants. Hundreds of sailboats and motorboats are moored here and this is the home of the largest French naval base.

In 1793 a young artillery officer named Napoleon Bonaparte gained fame and promotion when he captured a fort here and forced Royalist, Spanish, and British forces to leave.

Today, Toulon is a beach destination in the summer. In the spring, it's a pleasant mid-size town to hang out. We each bought a 10 euro all day transportation pass yesterday so we could take a ferry to the nearby beach and back. It also got us on the telepherique, a gondola that goes to the top of the nearby mountain.

We booked an extra day here since we liked the apartment and town so much. We spent it walking around a different part of the city and harbor. Lunch was on the harbor at one of the better restaurants in town. We were lucky to get in without a reservation. Yes, in France, you need reservations for lunch at nice places, even on a weekday. For both of us, it was one of the best meals of the trip, and still cost under $80 with wine. Dinner was salad, cheese, and salami at the apartment.

Because we booked and extra night here, we've only got one night to see Marseilles, our next stop. We're moving quickly now because we want to see a band we like in the small town of Servian on Friday.

More photos and videos are here.
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