• Dave HipplerRomania and MoldovaTraveler
    A fine selection of Branesti Cellars wines
    A fine selection of Branesti Cellars winesBranesti Cellars1My favorite of the bunchBranesti CellarsMusty cellarsBranesti CellarsSparkling wine straight from the tapEpoca de Piatra, the restaurant in a former limestone wine caveEpoca de Piatra, the restaurant in a former limestone wine caveEpoca de Piatra, the restaurant in a former limestone wine caveOld OrheiThe Cave Monastery at Old OrheiThe Cave Monastery at Old OrheiThe Cave Monastery at Old OrheiAt Old OrheiOld Orhei traditional houseOld OrheiOld OrheiAt Chateau VartelyChateau VartelyChateau VartelyChateau Vartely

    Wine Country, Moldovan Style

    Aug 29–31 in Moldova ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Moldova is famous for its wines. Maybe not in the US, but Eastern Europe knows. I booked 2 nights at a chateau in Orhei, about an hour north of Chisinau.

    We tried to do a tour at either of the two largest wineries in the country: Cricova or Milestii Mici. They fill up fast and we didn't get reservations in time for a weekend visit. So Deanne googled for wine tours while I finished booking a car at the Sixt office.

    It was fate. We ended up taking one of the best wine tours I've ever been on, and by this point I've been on a lot. I'm kind of done with them because many of them are snooty and expensive. But at Branesti Cellars, it was anything but.

    The tour would be in Russian but we didn't care. We just wanted to be in some authentic limestone caves that this region is noted for. It was us with three Russians. The guide was an older woman who would change to Romanian, French and Italian to help us understand and we got the gist.

    When we started the tour with her tapping a sparkling wine vat, we knew we were going to have a good time. The pours were heavy, as in Wisconsin heavy. We ended up trying over 10 wines of all types, including a 36-year-old vintage and a 46 year old vintage! Unbelievable for a $21 tour. Too bad I had to pour a lot of it out, as I was driving. Those Cabernets were some of the best I've had and we both agreed it was the most fun we've had on a tour.

    The chateau we stayed at was hosting two weddings when we were there. The room was really nice but they didn't seem to want us at the restaurant, which they really hyped up on their website. Service was really bad but the food was good. Because of that we skipped the wine tour there and any future meals. Good thing because it turns out their wine tour is led by 20 year old with no English who shows you a warehouse.

    We also ended up getting an amazing restaurant meal in a former wine cave, Epoca de Piatra . The food and ambience were fantastic. Tomorrow, we're heading back to Romania, where we'll spend a couple more weeks before heading home.

    More photos and videos are here.
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