• Tours, France

    4月20日〜21日, フランス ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    We were due for a bad travel day, and this was it. It was cold and rainy and we were out in it with our luggage too often. But after we checked in to our apartment, we did have a few hours to enjoy Tours. The Cathedral was impressive, especially the stained glass.

    This is a university town with about 30,000 students but most of them are probably home on spring break.

    It's's where Joan of Arc visited, maybe not by choice. I saw a plaque on a wall that she had slept in the building. On Wikipedia, it said she was required to come here to be examined by women to prove she was a virgin. Whew. She passed. And the rest is history.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/UiC92RYckwRk9azT8
    もっと詳しく

  • Bordeaux, France

    4月16日〜20日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    I've yet to find a city in France that I don't like. People come to Bordeaux for wine tasting but there's so much more. Bordeaux is probably the easiest city to get around. There's no subway but there are tram lines that take priority over all traffic and fortunately our aparthotel is next to a tram stop.

    We bought a 7 day transportation pass and that included the trams and buses and the ferries that ply across the Garonne river. That river empties into the Atlantic just north of town. And that's why there's a former Nazi-built submarine base that was converted into an art and light installation.

    We spent a lot of time just walking around and soaking up the sights and gawking at beautiful buildings. The Bourse is especially wonderful . Cafe culture is king here and we've been doing our best. We found a front row seat at a cafe across from the Gothic Cathedral on a sunny day. And we're just stopping for coffee and the occasional wine in different neighborhoods. It's absolutely wonderful.

    Because it's Easter week, we're seeing a lot of Spanish tourists. Probably every other person I hear on the street is speaking Spanish. But it's not too crowded like Paris.

    We took a day trip to nearby St. Emilion, for a wine tasting in town. It's a charming village sitting on top of limestone caves used to store the wines. And for miles and miles around it's surrounded by vineyards.

    Today is our last full day and it's a cooler, rainy day so it's good thing we opted use our 24 hour museum pass today. We'll go to that art and light installation and two wine museums.

    More photos and videos are here.

    Bordeaux
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/VyvaS5Y2NVtbwjvq8

    St. Emilion
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/j6sstsqPeZxkMTEe9
    もっと詳しく

  • Albi, Home of Toulouse Lautrec

    4月15日〜16日, フランス ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    We came to Albi just to see the museum of the hometown hero, Henri Toulouse Lautrec. He was born here in 1864. But we got so much more. It's yet another charming small town in France. And we had no idea that the Cathedral is a UNESCO world heritage site. It was amazing, and that's saying something from someone who is "churched out."

    The Musée Toulouse-Lautrec included mostly early works that his mother collected and saved. It was nice seeing his style progress to what he became famous for. The building itself was fantastic, a former Bishop's palace from the middle ages.

    There was no mention of the genocide of the Cathars, the plans of which probably originated in these walls. The Cathars were a Christan sect deemed heretics in the middle ages. They lived throughout Occitania, this southern region of France. Historians think about one million were tortured and killed.

    But enough of the fun stuff! The town today is clean and friendly, with lots of pedestrian streets. It's on the river Tarn and there's an old bridge that only pedestrians use now. Many of the older buildings are made in the half-timbered style.

    For lunch, we found a local restaurant offering a plat de jour. Fantastic meals for two that we couldn't finish cost less than $40 without wine. Mine included 3 types of seafood in a wine sauce, and a delicious appetizer of an Arancini in a mushroom duxelle (mince). I discovered Arancinis in Sicily, where they are from. They're deep fried rice balls stuffed with the chef's choice. They're absolutely delicious and gluten free.

    One night wasn't really enough but we did see the major sights. Bordeaux beckons!

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZKi339AFbEkhZL4b7
    もっと詳しく

  • Toulouse, France

    4月12日〜15日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We had no expectations about visiting Toulouse and ended up just loving it. It's a great city. This is France's fourth largest and was voted by Lonely Planet as one of the best place to visit in 2025. It's France's tech hub, home of Airbus and the largest national space center in Europe.

    We arrived early Saturday afternoon. A lot of restaurants close at 2:30 or so, but we found a Thai restaurant nearby. We kept hearing a bass drum in the background while eating. After lunch we walked through a huge techno festival in the street. A lot of different groups had massive speakers on trucks and just cranked out their favorite music to large crowds.

    We scored a remodeled apartment right smack dab in the middle of things in the old city. The pedestrian streets were so crowded! And this was after the festival area. I guess Saturday is shopping day, because stores were packed. It was worse than Black Friday. The warm weather brought people out.

    There were so many highlights, I'll list only our favorites:

    - Fine dining. Food is great and not too expensive. Local wine is great value also. Cassoulet is the local dish. It's a hearty bean stew with a duck leg and a sausage.

    Museums - the Bemberg has wonderful impressionists and an interesting jewelry collection. The best museum was the Hall of Machines. It's hard to describe, so check out the movies. That's not AI! Imagine a group of artsy engineers who are also musicians created a museum about machinery, and your have the Hall of Machines. We didn't have time for about 5 other museums.

    - The airplane museum (Aeroscopia) We got to walk through a Concorde plane and several others in the suburb that hosts the Airbus factory. That was fun.

    - A stroll and picnic along the Rive Garonne. This is as romantic and exciting as a walk along the Seine in Paris. On Saturday night, it was party central with the younger set. They don't allow that in Paris.

    Le Capitole - the Hotel DeVille, or city hall. Wow. It's a shrine to civic government with fantastic murals adorning the ceiling and walls in in what can only be described as a palace. I wince when thinking of Madison's city/ county building

    There's so much more. We're glad we had 3 nights but could have used more. I can't recommend a visit here enough.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZWQBHyWdvY5se5yC9

    Hall of Machines
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/LLCfSnkXzSD5TTWT6

    Musée Aeroscopia
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/xVcGNuaNZ1z58EY26
    もっと詳しく

  • Servian, France

    4月11日〜12日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    It's so rare that we get to see live music when we're traveling. Very few cities of their size do live music better than Madison! But Deanne is a music sleuth and found that Delgres was playing in this small town. Delgres is a French band with roots in Louisiana and the island of Guadalupe. We've seen them a few times in the states.

    The show was at an art space near the HUGEST winery I've ever seen. The 3 story fermentation tanks took up a few blocks. This is not Napa. It looks like the AE Staley and ADM factories in Decatur, Il. where I grew up. So that's where the box wine comes from. 😂 This southern region of Languedoc produces the most wine in France.

    Languedoc means the language of the Oc, or Occidentals. That's an almost lost language from this region. On the bus ride to Servian, we saw miles and miles of vineyards, yet wine tourists don't come here. They need some serious marketing!

    The show was amazing. Deanne bought a shirt from the lead singer and he was shocked when we told him we'd seen them in Madison and Lafayette, Louisiana. He knew Madison. He replied with "We know where the good people live."

    The BnB we stayed at couldn't have been more perfect. If only we had more time there. We met a French guy at the restaurant where we ate dinner and he mentioned he was staying nearby. He is a chef and lives in the Philippines but has kids in both countries. He was hit by a car while visiting his sister and was receiving medical care here. At breakfast the next morning, he was eating when we came down, so we got to know him even better.

    Earlier, we got off the train at Beziers, an absolutely wonderful town with a world class Central Park, complete with a pond and fountains. We walked to a bus stop and paid a whopping 1 Euro each to go 10 miles to the village of Servian where the concert was.

    Small town folks are so friendly here. These towns are so vibrant. There are hardly any empty shops, people smile at strangers., and are happy to help me find the bus stop. Why are we spending so much time in cities? But even in cities, the stereotype of the snobbish French is so wrong. I think that was based on a prior generation of French and Americans.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/F7xQgv3TJK5A7Pg37
    もっと詳しく

  • Marseille, France

    4月10日〜11日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Marseilles is France's 2nd largest city and deserves more than one day and night, but that's all the time we had for it, so we made the most of it.

    We checked into a cheap hotel in the historic center near the old port and hit the ground running. We walked all along the port, checked out the fish market, did some cafe culture, trying to stretch our coffees as long as a Frenchman. Impossible!

    Then we bought 24 hour transportation passes and took a bus up to the Basilica on the huge hill overlooking town. Great views. It also overlooks the Chateau d'If on a small island in the bay. It's the place where the count of Monte Cristo action takes place Alexander Dumas' book.

    Lunch was at a seafood restaurant near the harbor. We spent way too much time trying to find a place that wasn't too touristy yet had good seafood. We lucked out. The plot du jour was excellent. Unfortunately, you have to make a 3-day reservation if you want good Bouillabaisse, the local specialty.

    Then it was off to Le Panier, the "breadbasket" neighborhood on a large hill. It's narrow streets are fun to walk through. There's lots of graffiti and trendy shops and cafes up there now. Not long ago it was a very poor neighborhood.

    After a nap we took a subway two stops away and we were in a different world away from the port and tourists. Deanne found a nice seafood restaurant. Dinner was fresh oysters and langistinos with a bottle of wine.

    We had time in the morning for coffee at a cafe and a stroll in the sun. We're on a train right now heading west from Marseille towards the small town of Servian to see Delgres, a band we like. We've seen them at the Fete de Marquette in Madison a couple times and the Festival Internacional in Lafayette, Louisiana.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/c1gmtaVo8cgMmpfu8
    もっと詳しく

  • Toulon, France

    4月8日〜11日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We were leaving Italy and were going to head to a university town called Aix en Provence, north of Marseille. We had heard good things about this university town. But then Deanne realized that we're leaving the sea for good on this trip. Toulon seems like a perfect alternative to spend just a couple more days on the water. It's in Provence, on the sea, another university town, and not on the tourist trail, at least this time of year. We couldn't be happier.

    And a lot of that has to do with the lodging we found. We're in a newly remodeled, spacious apartment on the 6th floor of a building with an actual elevator that holds us and luggage! The views are spectacular. What a rare treat! We were met by Annik, a charming elderly French woman who owned the apartment. She gave us The Grand Tour and told us what sites we should see. If not for her, we probably wouldn't have taken the ferry to nearby Sablettes Beach.

    This city is lacking in a lot of the historic old buildings that we've been seeing because it was bombed extensively in world War II. The historic center is mostly a pedestrian area and is chock full of quaint shops. Annik said there's been an effort over the last 20 years to revitalize the city and especially in the last 3 or 4 years. It really shows. This is a lovely town and the center is a short distance from our apartment.

    There's a fruit and vegetable market that sets up and takes down 6 days a week on the main pedestrian street. And the harbor is full of amazing and inexpensive (for an American Midwesterner) seafood restaurants. Hundreds of sailboats and motorboats are moored here and this is the home of the largest French naval base.

    In 1793 a young artillery officer named Napoleon Bonaparte gained fame and promotion when he captured a fort here and forced Royalist, Spanish, and British forces to leave.

    Today, Toulon is a beach destination in the summer. In the spring, it's a pleasant mid-size town to hang out. We each bought a 10 euro all day transportation pass yesterday so we could take a ferry to the nearby beach and back. It also got us on the telepherique, a gondola that goes to the top of the nearby mountain.

    We booked an extra day here since we liked the apartment and town so much. We spent it walking around a different part of the city and harbor. Lunch was on the harbor at one of the better restaurants in town. We were lucky to get in without a reservation. Yes, in France, you need reservations for lunch at nice places, even on a weekday. For both of us, it was one of the best meals of the trip, and still cost under $80 with wine. Dinner was salad, cheese, and salami at the apartment.

    Because we booked and extra night here, we've only got one night to see Marseilles, our next stop. We're moving quickly now because we want to see a band we like in the small town of Servian on Friday.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZTTrcXBPjXZ1npNz9
    もっと詳しく

  • Cinque Terre, Italy

    4月4日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    I had all but given up on seeing this area of Italy. I just wasn't finding decent lodging on short notice. Most people book months in advance to stay in one of the five villages that make up Cinque Terre. So we gave up on it. That is, until I realized we could do it on a long day trip from Genoa.

    It took 2 1/2 hours each way of travel time, but it was worth it. We arrived at 9:00 or so in Monterosso, the first of "5 lands ". From there, we hiked southeast along the Ligurian coast. This region is known as Liguria and this part of the Mediterranean is the Ligurian Sea.

    We had lots of sun and the trails weren't crowded in early April and this early in the morning. It wasn't long until it came upon the stunning views of Vernazza. Once in town we ate our packed lunch. It's kind of hard to find gluten-free options so we knew this would be easier and faster.

    The next segment to Corniglia was a bit harder, but so rewarding. We were hoping to take a ferry back so we took a train to Manarola to catch the ferry. But their port was not in service so we couldn't take the ferry. Drag.

    Manarola was was so full of tour groups, construction, and fishing boats parked in the streets that we couldn't wait to leave. From land, it's the least attractive of the villages we saw. From the water it looks much better apparently. That was enough hiking for us. The trail between the next villages is closed because of landslides and we didn't feel like doing the last stretch.

    We caught a train home from Manarola and made it back to our comfortable apartment and ate at home that night. After almost 12 miles of up and down hiking we were too tired to go out.

    This trip is on a lot of people's bucket list. It is pretty beautiful. I wouldn't recommend going May through September. We met an American guy on the trail who was here last September and he said it was unbearably crowded on the trails. The trails are generally narrow, so going early in the morning and in shoulder or in the off season is your best bet.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/8XJxtPhNUMsHnEAcA
    もっと詳しく

  • Genova (Genoa), Italy

    4月3日〜7日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Genoa has to be the most underrated city in Italy. It's the last Italian city we're visiting on this trip before we head to France. Deanne found a large two-bedroom apartment in the heart of the old city. It's full of antiques and we just love the space. Oh, and our landlord is an Opera singer.

    The old city? Wow. Give me this city over Rome, Venice or Florence any day. That's probably because I've been to those cities and because they're so crowded, especially with tourists. I know I'm part of the problem, but we prefer lesser visited cities at this point in life.

    Genoa is very "lived in" by locals still. There are tourists here and even large ferries and cruise ships dock here but it's a totally different vibe since they tend to stay near the waterfront.

    In the center there's a six story height limit and these buildings are a century or two old. Most of the streets in the center are pedestrian only and are winding and zigzagging, which makes for a canyon- like experience. There are so many interesting shops that line them: butchers, bakers, gellaterias, jewelry, clothing, local wine stores with vats, artists workshops, etc.

    The food? Fantastic and not too expensive. Pesto was invented here, so it's always an option. Too bad I can't eat the abundant focaccia. But they do offer a chickpea flour flatbread called Farinata. Italian emigrants must have brought that to Argentina since it's common there also. Seafood is plentiful. The food here at the many trattorias and osterias was a major highlight.

    Genoa is home to Christopher Columbus and a rich sailing heritage. We bought a 2-day museum pass and saw the amazing Naval Museum, along with several art museums that were in former palaces called palazzos. Genova was a major city in the Kingdom of Savoy back in the day when they competed with Venice for trade dominance in the Mediterranean. In the Royal Palace we walked through a hall of mirrors that rivaled Versailles.

    A visit to the humongous cemetery is a must see. I think it's the largest one in Europe. I was never big on cemeteries until visiting Europe. In a cemetery like this you'll see some of the best statues you'll ever see in any museum.

    We had 4 wonderful days and nights exploring this amazing city. I want to stay longer, but France is calling. I will definitely be back.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/kmAe3TddAuCN5pka8

    The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/nHPMYJF5uhQc5DYF9
    もっと詳しく

  • Lake Como Region, Italy

    4月1日〜3日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    I was positive it was going to be cold in the north and thought we would just hang out in southern Italy. But it's actually been overcast and colder in the south. Deanne convinced me to come up here to Lake Como, north of Milan. What a great decision.

    The lake is absolutely beautiful. We parked ourselves in Varenna on the eastern shore and bought all day ferry passes for 15 Euros each. That allows you to jump on and off any of the multiple ferries. They go about every half hour or hour between villages.

    We visited about 5 of them in total: Maggiore, Tremezze, Lenno, and Bellagio. Two nights and one day was enough but it was just the bolt of lake and sunshine we needed.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/XAfiVsaP3pJR1qVd6
    もっと詳しく

  • San Marino

    3月31日, サンマリノ ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    San Marino is so close to Rimini, we couldn't pass up going to another country. That's 78 for me.

    It's one of those European tiny mountain countries that for some reason is still independent. It's on a mountain top and had the requisite castle and tax free status. That brings tourists in.

    It was a sunny day and perfect for walking and climbing steps to get to the old town from the parking lot. We didn't plan on buying anything, but leather goods were cheaper and with no tax, Deanne couldn't pass up on a leather purse and I splurged on a leather jacket.

    Sadly, I lost my wedding ring last week and I'm not sure how. So we decided we'd buy another one that jumped out at us. Sure enough, I saw one I liked at a different shop in San Marino. What a day.

    John and Tara are super fun to travel with and we have a lot in common. Tara even went to Eastern Illinois University at the same time I was there! John is a musician and we listen to a lot of the same music. We've got friends for life now.

    After lunch, we drove to a nearby castle town called Gradara for another walk and photos. It was a perfect travel day that we ended with wine in a piazza cafe and a restaurant with gluten free pizza.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/PzJR2jSvsRwuCuhp9
    もっと詳しく

  • Rimini, Italy

    3月30日〜4月1日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    My sister Julie introduced us to friends Tara and John online before we started our trip. They're Chicagoans who retired to a small village in Italy. We agreed to meet up in the coastal city of Rimini for a couple of days.

    It wasn't hard to make fast friends with them since they are like-minded souls. We had a blast exploring the beach and multiple piazzas together.

    Rimini is a popular vacation spot for Italians in the summer. But this time of year, it's a mid size city with nice plazas, plenty of restaurants, and a nice vibes.

    People were out in droves on Sunday. The weather was great. There was a huge flea market in the center. It's a very walkable city. I absolutely loved it. There were no tourists in sight except us, and that's rare in Italy for a city this size.

    Tomorrow, we're off to Lake Como for a few days, because why not?

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZauXXbGHexxHHdyaA
    もっと詳しく

  • Lucca, Italy

    3月28日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Lucca is another wonderful Tuscan town. Once the sworn enemy of ancient Firenze, it's now a chill town whose ancient protective walls are a park you can walk on and circle the old city.

    Meandering through the city reminded me of the first time I went to Firenza 25 years ago in January. There were hardly any tourists, locals still lived in the center, and you could really get a feel for the century-old traditions. I loved it.

    We had no agenda and just walked around and enjoyed the city. Also, we found an amazing pasta restaurant that even made homemade gluten-free pasta. After a few hours we took a train back to Firenza that took only an hour and a half.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/EZ32S6WBmfpG8J3t5
    もっと詳しく

  • Pisa, Italy

    3月28日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We visited Pisa and Lucca on a day trip from Florence (Firenze). Pisa is a nice university town in its own right. We had a pleasant walk from the station to the tower and "The Field of Miracles" where all the good stuff is. School groups were out en masse but the crowds were manageable. We could see all the sights including a museum in a few hours.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/uGWyps2eaPP5wnN6A
    もっと詳しく

  • Firenze (Florence), Italy

    3月26日〜30日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Florence, or Firenza as it's known locally is wonderful anytime of year. This is my third time here so I didn't feel the need to hit all the major museum sites. I've done those in the past. So we spent a lot of time just walking around and hanging out with our friends. Dan and Lisa. They're old friends from Madison who moved to Athens, Georgia and are here for a couple months.

    We had several amazing meals as you can expect, including the Florentine steak, the local specialty. It's always served rare and it's good thing that we like that.

    We did see a few museums though. Deanne has never seen the real Statue of David at the Academia, so she went there. And we both enjoyed the Galileo Museum. It has hundreds of antique scientific instruments.

    And we went to a medieval Palazzo that has original furniture and antiques. It was was very interesting to see how rich Florentines lived back in the day. But mostly we enjoyed walking around the Duomo (the domed cathedral) and the old piazzas.

    Saturday, Dan, Lisa and Deanne and I walked across the Arno River to see the sights on that side of the river. Walking back at night was fun. There were buskers our playing New Orleans jazz and classical music. After 4 nights here, we're heading over to the Adriatic coast to meet some new friends my sister introduced us to online. John and Tara moved from Chicagoland to Italy and we're meeting up in Rimini.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/1Ue27ccV31bYXicV8
    もっと詳しく

  • Lecce, Italy

    3月23日〜26日, イタリア ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    Lecce is a real treat. It's not over-touristed but has a medieval old town full of Baroque treasures. The local stone is a soft honey colored limestone that was used to build the old town. It's been called the Florence of the south.

    We wanted a place to just chill out for a few days before we head to Firenze (Florence) to meet up with friends. It's been a lazy 3 days of just eating great food, avoiding crowds, and wandering this living museum. There are a ton of beautiful churches but we didn't feel the need to go inside any of them.

    The only real museum we went to is an amazing archaeology museum in a house. Imagine in the year 2000 that you started digging in your house to fix a plumbing problem and uncovered layers and layers of history multiple stories down. That's the Museo Faggiano. Here's a link to a New York Times article about it.

    https://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/world/europe…

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/FUQdcuLt3cZ77CLv7
    もっと詳しく

  • Matera, Italy

    3月22日, イタリア ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    This was another side trip from Bari. Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has been the poorest region in Italy forever. For thousands of years, people lived in caves here. In the 1950's, the government moved people into modern housing with plumbing. And then 40 years later, it turned into a tourist attraction.

    The hills are dotted with these caves called "Sassi." We spent 4 hours exploring the town.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q8qJLuzEqjAWoJw6A
    もっと詳しく

  • Alberobello, Italy....Trulli beautiful

    3月22日, イタリア ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    We checked out this village on a day trip from Bari. It's known for these cool traditional houses called Trulli. Houses in this area used to be taxed if they used mortar. These industrious folks built these stone houses without it!

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZRGcPMjkj5re74YR8
    もっと詳しく

  • Polignano a Mare

    3月21日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    This town is even more picturesque than Monopoli. Most of the old town is on a cliff, and that makes for great photos. I'll let them speak for me.

    We also had a 5 star meal with fresh seafood, wine, dessert, and espresso. It couldn't have been better.もっと詳しく

  • Monopoli, Italy

    3月21日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    We went to Monopoli on a day trip from Bari. It's only a half hour away on a fast regional train. This is where we enjoy using our Eurail passes. Not that anyone checks tickets here! I think of about 10 train rides so far, we've only been asked to show tickets 3 times.

    It was a sunny day and walking through the old town was a delight. We stopped in the Cathedral, another Baroque one. It has several amazing varieties of colored marble lining the walls and columns. I've never seen such beautiful purple marble before!

    Then it was off to the sea for a walk along the coast. There are still fishermen working here and their brightly painted boats are moored along the coast. We met some nice Bulgarian ladies on vacation. There are lots of Eastern Europeans in Italy this time of year, especially Poles. We hear lots of "dobra" and "tak" (Good, yes) while walking around. 😁

    There wasn't a whole lot else to do, so we opted to head to Polignano a Mare for lunch. It's just 5 minutes away on one of the many regional trains.
    もっと詳しく

  • Bari, Italy

    3月19日〜23日, イタリア ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    Bari is in Puglia, on the Adriatic Sea and just across from Albania where we were last fall. It's been a major trade port for millennia, and was Europe's largest slave trading port in the past. Slav = slave and Turks and Arabs especially bought many conquered Slavs from here.

    Today, it's a large, modern city with the old city on a peninsula facing the sea. There's a well-kept castle museum that had great interactive videos to keep things interesting.

    Bari draws in Russian tourists who venerate St. Nicala, AKA Santa Claus. His bones were stolen from his tomb in Myra, Turkey by Bari sailors/ crusaders and brought here for some reason. They're now in a crypt under the Basilica San Nicola. I happened upon a mass full of these tourists. Check out the video.

    We've been to Myra in the past to see St. Nick's home town. He was a Byzantine bishop there and the stories of his giving to the poor led to him being canonized. I'm not quite sure how or why northern Europeans created the modern myth of Santa Claus.

    The old town is full of narrow, curved streets that are fun to meander through. One street has old ladies selling fresh pasta in front of their houses.

    We're using Bari as a base to visit about 3 other nearby towns on day trips. Once again, we found an amazing, newly remodeled apartment for under $70 in a convenient location. We definitely notice a difference from Sicily. It's cleaner here and a little less chaotic.😂

    More photos and videos are here.

    St. Nicola mass:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/b4rN58YK1PFLEGNh8

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/yCHzDLRaVjVLYpbaA
    もっと詳しく

  • Messina, Sicily

    3月18日〜19日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Messina is the major port city of Sicily. Unfortunately, it's been destroyed a few times over the years including a major earthquake and tidal wave in 1908 and then damage from world War II when the Allies pushed the Nazis back to mainland Italy.

    That means there's not a whole lot to see for tourists. We spent the night here to break up our ride from Palermo. We're going all the way to Bari today which is in the heel of mainland Italy in Puglia.

    There is however, a nice art museum with two paintings from one of my favorite artists, Caravaggio. I need to read a book on this guy when I get back. He was on the lam for murder in Rome and escaped to Malta. While there, he got into a knife fight with a knight of St. John! 3 weeks ago we saw the prison cell where he was held at fort San Angelo. But he escaped and made his way to Sicily where he met up with friends and was commissioned to paint several paintings. The regional art museum in town holds two of them.

    We've got a 3-month Eurail pass and we planned to take the train from Messina to Bari today, but there's another one-day strike that caused us to buy bus tickets instead. Too bad because I really wanted to see how they load these trains on a ferry for the short crossing across the Messina straits.

    There really should be a bridge here because the straits are not very wide, but there's a lot of anti-bridge sentiment in Sicily. These ferries are slow and inefficient but provide a lot of jobs and I don't think they'll ever build a bridge. I included the satellite photo showing how the tracks lead right to the ferry. Instead, our bus will be loaded on the ferry and we'll be in Bari 2 hours earlier than the train.

    We had two wonderful weeks in sicily and I can't recommend it enough. The food is as good as it gets and there's something for everyone here.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SJChZCcbLxwA4f4a7
    もっと詳しく

  • Palermo, Sicily

    3月14日〜17日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    If I had to stereotype Sicilians, I'd say "They all scream, but they smile while they do it ." They really do talk loud, with hands, and often. But they're a friendly sort. Palermo is wacky, but fun.

    Wow. Just wow. We're on our fourth and last day here and it's been amazing. Palermo is gritty like Catania, but I like it so much more for some reason. I'd sworn off going to multiple churches in a day but yesterday I went to five of them! There's so much history here that it's hard to pass up these Norman churches that had Arabic craftsman adding touches to the Norman design with Byzantine mosaics inside.

    Today I visited the cathedral Monreale, which is about 45 minutes outside of town. It's also a masterpiece with golden mosaics telling stories from the Bible all around the interior.

    Yesterday we kind of messed up and went to Agrigento on the last day of the almond festival. We thought we could see the ancient Greek ruins, which are about the best in the world including Athens, and then attend the cultural festival afterwards. Well, they closed the ruins early so they could put up a stage for the festival (which was sold out). We went to the nearby museum and we could see the temples in the distance but we couldn't get inside. We had taken a train from Palermo and that was 2 and 1/2 hours transportation each way. What a disappointment! I didn't have the energy to go back the next day, but Deanne did. I opted for Monreale instead.

    Palermo has a lot of immigrants including South Asians so there's no shortage of different types of food. But we're here for Sicilian food and we've been having great meals of course.

    Despite what the photos show, it wasn't all churches. They have a modern harbor with a promenade and walking through a street market and any street really, was a treat. I feel like we barely scratched the surface.

    Tomorrow we take a train back to Messina to spend the night before we head to mainland Italy. We just spent two wonderful weeks exploring the football of Italy and now we're going to go hang out in the instep and the heel, Basilicata and Puglia.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/W3M52TGhJjNkH3zg9

    And for those very few of you that can't get enough of Norman churches......

    Cattedrale di Monreale
    Duomo di Monreale
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/x4yLm8Zxr3zBF54ZA

    Chiesa del Gesù di Casa Professa
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/qfUNABewcJTS2ZQW8

    Chiesa Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (Chiesa della Martorana)
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/UiAWgELCtgGjYWix6

    Church of Saint Caraldo
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SKuuDJ7GxXAZo9RaA

    Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/RDYdYfAqAtLB6gRf6
    もっと詳しく

  • Cefalu, Sicily

    3月12日〜14日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    It's pronounced CHEH fay LOO. Hard one to say, but Cefalu is easy on the eyes. It's set on a rocky point sailors call a "head" hence the name of Greek origin. (Cephalus)

    The train up to Messina was beautiful. It hugged the coast, so we made sure to sit on the right side of the train going north. We changed trains in Messina but had time to grab an espresso before we left and then settled in for a 2-hour ride to Cefalu. It also hugged the coast but we switched from the Ionian Sea on the east side of Sicily for the Tyhrennian Sea on the north side.

    We had leftover pizza and a half a bottle of Etna red for lunch. For dessert, we had a couple more almond pastries and tried an amazing new dessert (for us) full of sweet pistachio butter. I have no idea what it's called but I may have to go back to Taormina just for that.

    Between guide books, novels on our e-readers, and lunch, the 3 1/2 hour trip went pretty quickly. This is why we prefer train travel.

    Cefalu is a small town and not too busy this time of year. We absolutely love it here. It's a great change of pace from Taormina, which has hordes of clueless tour groups clogging the streets. Our apartment here, and its host, are amazing. He left wine and coffee and lots of recommendations for us. He personally greeted us to show us around the apartment. That's really rare these days.

    We easily saw all the sights in a day and a half. The Cathedral has incredible mosaics behind the altar. It was built by Normans, who settled from northern France, and they were only a couple generations removed from their Viking forefathers.

    We had warm, sunny days here and wandering the narrow streets was fun. Eating at restaurants all the time can be a drag, so we had a picnic with the wine and the meat and cheese we brought. We didn't need it on the train.

    Last night's restaurant was so amazing, I made a reservation for tonight when I paid the bill. We sat right by the kitchen and were fascinated by the calm demeanor and professionalism of the four chefs. I opted for gluten free pasta with Bottarga. Hoo Boy. That was a new one. It's a fish roe pouch that's a Sicilian delicacy. It's quite "fishy " but I ate it all. Move over, anchovies. It was still perhaps our best meal in Sicily and half price of what we paid in Taormina.

    The next night we went back and sat at the same seats. The head chef recognized us and comped us a starter of panelle (chickpea flour fritters) and cazzille (mashed potato fritters), both gluten free. This meal was even better. Cefalu is wonderful but 2 nights is plenty and for those with little time, you can do it on a day trip.

    Tomorrow, we go to Palermo, Sicily's largest city on a 10 am train.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/CRtsPxqVtbSLtJN57
    もっと詳しく

  • Taormina, Sicily

    3月9日〜12日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Taormina is a resort town on a large cliff overlooking the sea. The rich and famous have been coming here for decades. While we aren't interested in the high end shops, the views are stunning and there's a huge, well-preserved Greco Roman amphitheater with seats pointing towards Etna in the distance. If you want to know what Taormina really looks like, check out Season 2 of White Lotus. It was filmed here

    We climbed up the long steps to a church built into a cave for the views. And we visited the amphitheater. Other than that, we just strolled the streets and soaked up the views while enjoying the local flavors (almonds and pistachios). We also tried our first granita, which in Taormina is between a sorbet and ice cream.

    Unfortunately it's been cloudy and we haven't been able to see Mt. Etna until the morning we left. The sun finally came out and burned off the clouds. A lot of people come here just for hiking or driving around the volcano. They make lots of wine and grow a lot of pistachios on those slopes. We've been fine with just chilling out and enjoying the clean and pleasant city but seeing it on our last day was a real treat.

    This will probably be the most expensive city on our trip in Italy and we're fine with a couple of fine dining experiences and also cooking in the apartment. Tomorrow we change trains in Messina and then head west to the port city of Cefalu.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/GVFV3TwGPXV4C2Y4A
    もっと詳しく

あなたの旅行のプロフィールを入手する

無料

QR code

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android