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Southward Bound
  • Holly and Karl
  • Holly and Karl

Southward Bound

Et 264-dagers eventyr av Holly Les mer
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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Desert Bike Gang

    14. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The next morning we grabbed a group shot together to help spread the word about the cause that Fraser and Shanna are riding for - we had no idea that dolphins were in danger of falling off of cliffs but Fraser's work is saving innocent dolphins everyday ;) We rode loosely together towards San Ignacio, thoroughly enjoying fresh conversation as we pedalled through more vast desert landscapes.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Dates in an Oasis

    14. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We started seeing palm trees as we approached San Ignacio. Restaurants, taco stands, a super market and gas station along the highway conceiled the fact that the heart of the town was in fact in an oasis 3 km down a date palm-lined road and across a peaceful laguna. A sleepy town square, colourful shops and a beautiful old mission gave the town a much different feel than all the other dusty roadside towns we have ridden through. We sampled date shakes and date pie made from the plentiful local dates with Tyndall and Liz, before we finally decided we should ride a little further before the sun set.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    At Last, the Sea of Cortez!

    15. desember 2015, Mexico

    We rode over a pass and camped in the cactii once more before a fun descent the next morning. We were very glad to be riding down Inferno Hill and not up it as it felt like one of the steepest highway grades we had ridden. Needless to say, we all enjoyed the fast descent to the Sea of Cortez and rolled into Santa Rosalia grinning after an easy 30 km morning ride.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    History in Santa Rosalia

    15. desember 2015, Mexico

    It was obvious that Santa Rosalia was a mining town as we had to pass through the industrial end of town before we found the charming downtown area. We learned about the long history of productive copper mining in the area and then got a recommendation for some of our best tacos and ceviche so far, down the hill in the busy little town of one-way streets. After filling our bellies we checked out more mining history on the waterfront and visited the historical Iglesia Santa Barbara, designed by Mr. Eiffel, with beautiful stained glass windows. After filling up with ice cream and donuts we pedalled out of town to finally camp on the beach along the Sea of Cortez.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Welcome to Canada Beach

    16. desember 2015, Mexico

    20 km out of Santa Rosalia we started looking for little roads or paths headed toward the beach. As we turned off the highway to try out a road we saw a sign for a campground at Playa Dos Amigos. We figured at worst we could pay to camp and maybe get a shower out of the deal if it wasn't too pricey. After a tiny bit of haggling we rolled into the campground and were greeted by a bunch of Canadians who spend their winters down in the Baja. We set up the tent under an RV-sized palapa, showered and then were invited to happy hour followed by dinner by Irene and Paddy, a couple from Sundrie, Alberta. We swapped stories all evening, hearing about their jetboating adventures in northern Canada (including on the Keele and Eagle-Bell-Porcupine-Yukon Rivers) and truck and quad explorations into the lesser populated back roads and arroyos of the Baja. We also got to see the Model-T Ford they are restoring (with great effort!) as a winter project while in Mexico. We were really touched by their impromptu hospitality and glad to have gotten some great suggestions of places to visit while on the Baja. The next morning we headed back on the road toward Mulegé, again carried by a pleasantly strong tailwind.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Mulegé & Northern Neighbors

    16. desember 2015, Mexico

    We rolled into Mulegé and immediately stopped at Mario's Taqueria since we'd heard it was highly recommended. The clientele was mostly gringos, but the crab and octopus ceviche and fish tacos were delicious. We headed up to the museum to get a view of the town, then loaded up with groceries to go camp at the beach along Bahia Concepcion. Before heading out of town, however, we dropped in to see Bill and Penny in the Oasis. We'd run into them the day before in Santa Rosalia and found out they were from Atlin of all places. On the wall in their cute little house were photos of their home in Atlin, and we knew exactly which one it was, having passed it admiringly many times and even chatted with them in years gone by about their excellent greenhouse along Atlin Lake. Small world!Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Playa Escondido

    16. desember 2015, Mexico

    We'd gotten many suggestions of good beaches along Bahia Concepcion, but liked the sound of tucked away Playa Escondido. After beautiful views along the bay we rode to the hidden beach and had our first swim in the Sea of Cortez after sunset - and it was warm! After dinner we joined some Californian surfers from the Bay Area around their fire, and gladly helped them work on their excess beer stash in exchange for popcorn.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Beach Day!

    17. desember 2015, Mexico

    We really enjoyed our rest day at Playa Escondido. Vendors came around selling delicous tamales and empanadas, fresh juice and more. We enjoyed fresh-squeezed orange and grapefruit juice - yum! We also read, did crosswords, repaired gear, and swam many times. Karl's thermarest had developed a slow leak, so Holly tried to find the leak by taking it for a swim - no success on locating the leak, but certainly proof of concept that thermarests make great water toys!Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    On the Road Again

    18. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We reluctantly packed up again and left our beachside paradise. We rode along Bahia Concepcion for many more kms, passing a string of beautiful beaches. South of the bay we finally said good-bye to Liz and Tyndall, who we'd loosely travelled with for many days, as they headed inland and we stayed on the coast. We carried on pedalling toward Loreto with a great tailwind, enjoying the striking backdrop of the Sierra de las Gigantes along the winding road.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    A Day in Loreto

    19. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We camped just a few kms from Loreto, so rolled into town early in the day and caught up on our blog over a delicious breakfast at a cafe in the central square. Having gotten a few tips of sights to see in town we toured the historical buildings and harbour of this Pueblo Magico (magic village, a heritage designation). Unfortunately, the overcast skies didn't inspire much photography but we quite enjoyed this beautiful town.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Rainbow Sunset

    19. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    While on the waterfront in Loreto we met John and Posey from Colorado who invited us to stay with them in Nopolo for the night. They are in the process of building a straw-bale house at home, so have been spending their winters at John's sister's house here in Baja to avoid the cold Colorado winters until their house is complete. We weren't sure if we should pedal further south to get some miles in, but when it started to rain (spit? lightly.... for about 10 minutes) we decided we should take them up on their offer and benefit from a night spent inside, much needed laundry and good company. The town of Nopolo is a bit of an anomoly compared to other towns we have been through on the Baja, as it is basically a golf course where Canadians and Americans have vacation homes. However, we were lucky to see a gorgeous sunset from the crows nest of the house, get treated to delicious drinks and a chille rellano dinner, and have fun conversations during our enjoyable visit with John and Posey.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Ligui Hill

    20. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We'd been warned about a nasty hill south of Loreto, la Cuesta de Ligui. As we left Nopolo we feared a long steep climb, but were pleasantly surprised to find that with all the apprehension leading up to it, the hill was less daunting than expected and took us into a really neat volcanic landscape that vaguely felt like Hawaii. At the top of the hill, we turned off MEX 1 onto a side road leading back down to the coast that had been reccommended to us for a remote beach with stunning scenery. The road started out paved, but certainly with some hazards...Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Rough Road to the Ocean

    20. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    ... and then after 10 km it turned into a dirt road characterized by rough cobble and lots of washboard. Needless to say, the going was slow. We dropped 400 m back down to the ocean at Rancho San Cosme and met some rancheros taking their horses to Agua Verde to meet a mini-cruise ship that would be arriving the next day. 20 more kms of rough road, up and down along the coast, took us to our destination of Agua Verde.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl
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    Puerto Agua Verde

    20. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Three and a half hours after leaving MEX 1 we finally arrived in Agua Verde, a quiet fishing town in a beautiful location, with volcanic rock rising up out of the sea, and a few colourful houses. We headed to the little beach on the spit north of town, pushing our bikes along a sandy, then cobble 'road'. Sweaty and exhausted we collapsed onto the beach after chatting briefly with the old tio (uncle) who lives in a little house on the beach. We set up our tent and cooked dinner, then fell asleep to the sound of waves gently lapping along the shore in this well-sheltered bay. In the morning we woke up to the sound of the horses arriving on the beach and saw the mini-cruise ship in the bay along with a handful of sailboats we'd seen the day before. Despite our long challenging ride to this quite remote place there were still others that found their way there (by easier means as well!), but we took it all in stride, chatting with the caballeros and other boaters while we enjoyed the beautiful beach.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl
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    Hotsprings at Playa San Cosme

    22. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After our hike we rode back toward Playa San Cosme. The rough road made the going as slow as the day before - at 9 km/hr it takes a while to go 20 km! But our efforts were well rewarded as we arrived strategically at low tide so we could hit up some hotsprings on the beach that are only accessible when the tide is out. We left our bikes at Rancho San Cosme and walked a couple of kms along the shore to reach the hotsprings that are located on an island that becomes a peninsula at really low tide. A ring of rocks held in the scalding water, and we were able to alternate between relaxing soaks and cooling swims in the bay. We spent the night on the beach, and in the morning were lucky to get a lift up the hill with Dennis, an Americain who spends his winters at the rancho, and Julio and Justo, brothers in the family that run the rancho. Julio we had met on the road with his horses on our way to Agua Verde and he had helpfully suggested that we might find a ride up the hill to avoid having to push our bikes up the steep loose gravel sections. So we loaded our bikes into Dennis' old pickup, along with the coolers, gas and propane bottles they were bringing to fill in town, and enjoyed the ride up the hill in the box of the truck. In 45 mins we were back at MEX 1 and ready to put in a big day of cycling after such an easy start.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    A New Friend in Ciudad Constitucion

    22. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We pedalled through the rolling hills until we reached the high mesa central plateau. The road got really straight and flat, and we started seeing dairy farms and other agriculture along the road. We pedalled through Cuidad Insurgentes, where we stocked up again on food and water and carried on to Cuidad Constitucion. We thought we might just camp along the roadside, but with all the agriculture we weren't sure that wild camping would be as easy as it had been in the desert previously. So we played a wildcard. We had been given a list of friends and other places where we might stay in the towns along the Baja by our host Gabino in San Quintin, so we figured we might try to track down Gabino's friend Francisca who ran a carwash in the city. The instructions were fairly vague - we were looking for a non-descript carwash between two fairly large stores, but after a bit of searching we found her place. "Hello, are your Francisca? Could we camp in your carwash?" She happily oblidged, so we spent the evening chatting with her and her 11-year old son Gabriel, after walking the bustling streets full of delicious street food and Christmas buzz. Despite the little that Francisca had she lovingly provided for her 3 children and was preparing for the great gathering that her family would have when her 12 siblings and their families were all reunited from across North America for Christmas. In the morning we snapped a photo with Francisca before continuing down the long flat stretch of road ahead of us.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl
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    One Last Desert Ride

    24. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    We were worried about holiday traffic on the 24th so we got an early start for the ride into La Paz. We climbed more than expected, but there were some nice sections of new pavement and we were rewarded with a great view of (and descent to) La Paz, so arrived before noon and ate our lunch with a harbour view along the Malecon. The traffic wasn't bad, although we did see a few people with car trouble along the way - I think this Santa-mobile had a harder time on the hills than we did.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Christmas Eve in La Paz

    24. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We rolled around La Paz looking for a hostel and stumbled upon the Pension California, and our good friend Phil, so decided to spend the night there. Phil had been in town for a couple days already so took us for a tour of the bustling Chistmas street markets. We ate street food for dinner and then Liz and Tyndall joined us with a delicious fruit cake and some Mezcalito for a little more of a Christmas feel. We went to a very well attended (and very warm) 10 pm mass in the Cathedral and called it a day.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl
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    We're on a Boat!

    25. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    As we rode the Baja Karl got a message from another UVic friend about meeting up: Kevin and his girlfriend Beth were coming to La Paz for Christmas to visit Kevin's Dad (Wes) who had built a sailboat and sailed it south. He invited us to come sail with them for a few days, and the timing was perfect given our progress down the peninsula. The good ship SV Arcola was nearly 50 feet long and more than capable of accomodating 5 people, so we left our bikes on land and moved all our other possesions onto the boat for Christmas night in the bay.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl
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    Life on SV Arcola

    27. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The next day we bought some groceries and sailed north to a bay where we spent a couple nights exercising our sea legs as the wind rocked the boat all night. Holly helped Wes figure out his sewing machine and he practiced on some of his tired flags. We moved a little further north and spent the day swimming and puttering on the boat. Wes has almost every tool imaginable on board, including a hair cutting kit so Holly set to work shortening Karl's hair while Kevin and Wes worked on scrubbing the barnacles off the bottom of the boat with scuba gear and Beth swam laps to the shore and back. We returned to the La Paz harbour in the evening for yet another spectacular sunset. What a treat it was to spend these days experiencing another mode of world travel and the huge skill set it requires.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl
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    Slow Return to Cycling

    29. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We spent one last night on the boat in the harbour, then packed everythng up and headed back to dry land. After doing our laundry we had one last fish taco lunch with Kevin and Beth before cycling around the city to pick up groceries and gear and our ferry tickets to mainland Mexico. We learnt the hard way that Mexicans are so nice that they will never answer a request for directions with 'No I don't know where that is' and instead will invariably send you on a wild goose hunt to bike shops that don't exist. At least we explored a lot of the city this way! After booking our ferry for January 3rd we made a plan to spend New Years in La Ventana with a big group of cyclists, so stayed another night at Pension California, toured the market and the museum of anthropology in the morning, and finally rode out of town at 2 pm.Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Wind Lovers in La Ventana

    31. desember 2015, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Despite looking straight - therefore flat, right? - the ride to La Ventana was anything but flat. As we rode out of La Paz we rolled over false summit after false summit up to just under 700 m before dropping back to sea level on the other side. We arrived in La Ventana just before sunset and found a place to put up our tent, sheltered from the wind that brings so many folks to windsurf and kite board here. The town was much bigger than we expected and full of foreigners, mostly Americans and Canadians. We were immediately greeted by Sara and Sean, and Max, cyclists from Seattle and Colorado, respectively, and Bob and Amy, and Hal, windsurfers from Washington and Oregon, respectively. Their offer of beer after the harder than expected ride was much appreciated! The next day we went snorkeling in the bay, impressed with how much more exciting the sea can be when you just stick your face in the water. After grabbing some food and internet in town we returned to our tents to find that many more groups of cyclists had arrived and we were now 14 cyclists in all planning to celebrate New Years together :)Les mer

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  • Holly and KarlSouthward BoundHolly and Karl

    Great Start to 2016

    1. januar 2016, Mexico ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    With the whole crew of cyclists together, we cooked up a delicious feast (including fish some of the guys had caught spearfishing) and chatted around the campfire. Just before midnight we headed to the bar to countdown to the New Year. After our late night, it was a slow first day of the New Year, but spent in great company eating, exchanging stories, and playing cards.Les mer

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