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- Día 79
- sábado, 22 de octubre de 2022
- ☁️ 32 °C
- Altitud: 7 m
TailandiaKhlong Song Ton Nun13°43’53” N 100°44’7” E
Bangkok

Bangkok is somewhere people stay (perverts excepted) on their way to somewhere else. Usually, the Thai beaches or in transit to East Asia or Australia. We are no different, and we will be headed to Laos in a couple of days.
The city is, however, a great place for short stops, and the experience this time is rather different from our last stay during our honeymoon (2007). The fruits of that honeymoon mean that the same budget is enough for a stay at a budget hotel and not the Shangri-la. Flo and I are happy to have the first nice hot showers for more than a week, and the children, despite some pushback, all take a shower too. Lovely ! Orgasmic 🤣
1st stop is to take care of Nora's foot. She has a verucca, so we need a dermatologist . Google says 42 nearby, but on closer examination, every single one is a botox and filler place. Undeterred, we go to the closest one and voila. There is the possibility to treat it, so we book for Nov 9th, on our way to Japan.
2nd stop a rather wierd Buddhist temple that has some features that look Hindu, but I guess that is just my ignorance.
Then we venture out to a very large weekend market that sells everything from food, street food, and furniture to clothes. All except me get some new trousers and/or t-shirts for 2 or 3 $ each. I consoled myself with a couple of 🍻.
We then went with a touch to Chinatown for food. That turned out to be wildly exciting. We didn't know, but the TT here have 750cc motorcycle engines, and whereas Indian ones struggle with us all onboard, the Thai one goes as fast as any car, and the driver knows it. To add to the fun, he deliberately sways left and right.
The food in China town is a sensational meat and veg fondue, with three different soups, broth, tomato, and super hot Chilli something. It's really great.
Finally, back to the hotel with another touk touk. Not quite as wild as the 1st one, but still 750cc of power.Leer más
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- Día 80
- domingo, 23 de octubre de 2022
- 🌩️ 32 °C
- Altitud: 11 m
TailandiaKhlong Bang Sue Noi13°51’37” N 100°28’38” E
Bangkok - lazy but not too lazy Sunday

Day 2 in Bangkok was pretty simple. A fairly long lye in, but getting up just before breakfast closed at 11:00. Then a wander down to the river, and a tour of the river and the side canals in a long boat. Lunch in a nice Thai restaurant, small, simple menu, but perfectly cooked. Then, a longer visit to Wat Traimet, aka the Golden Buddha and its surrounding temples. The Buddha is biiiiiiiiig! It's lying down and is maybe 30 - 40m long and 10m high, and of course, gold colour. Then some Thai street food for dinner, and back home in a touk touk that was really rather slow compared to the previous day.
May not sound much, but with the heat and humidity, the kids were pretty exhausted. Early to bed, tomorrow we are off to northern Laos.Leer más
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- Día 81
- lunes, 24 de octubre de 2022
- ☀️ 32 °C
- Altitud: 307 m
LaosHouay Sangta19°53’20” N 102°8’10” E
Thailand to Laos

Today is one of our travel days, but thankfully a lower stress one as our flight is at 17:00 and lands at 18:30. ( Unlike a lot of trips in the early morning or late at night)
We again sleep till after 10, I think it's deep sleep de-stress after India. Long breakfast and finalize packing, including shifting all the heavy books and laptops into my bags so that the kids on board bags are less than 7 kg. Mine weighs 11 kg, but then hopefully, they won't challenge me. Why the hell are you telling us that? Well, it saved us $80 in baggage fees, and when you are on a budget, being careful is important.
Before heading to the airport, I have time fit something I haven't done for over 3 months, and it's getting to me more than the infrequent showers. I am talking about a haircut. The entire family decides to watch this event. The barber shop has 5 chairs, with the barbers all rather old, and all specialists in slow motion, but they do a passable job after I show mine a photo from July . After that, another Thai street food lunch that costs only $6 for everyone.
We fly from Bangkok's second airport, which is for domestic flight and flights to neighbouring countries. Very quiet, very easy to get through. Strangely, our plane is painted "Leicester City Football Club". I have no idea why.
The arrival in northern Laos is equally easy, even if the old style military uniforms of the border guards have a bit of a Soviet feel to it.
Before leaving the plane, we are warned that using foreign currency is illegal, but right after the border guard are three stalls selling SIM cards for $8 or 300 Thai Bhat. Confused?
We arrive at the hotel after dark, it seems like a nice location, let us see tomorrow. No food, so we go to the night market, and that is a really fun place with lots of street food and excellent beer. $1 for a very large bottle. The seller tells me, "Down the road, it's only 80c, heaven 🤪Leer más
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- Día 82
- martes, 25 de octubre de 2022
- ⛅ 31 °C
- Altitud: 331 m
LaosLuang Prabang19°53’25” N 102°8’10” E
Luang Prabang - northern Laos

So far, Luang Prabang is not at all what I expected. Yes, it's green and lutious, yes the Mekong adds interest, and yes, there are plenty of temples and rolling hills. Our hotel is beautifully situated next to a large lilly pond that would have delighted Monet, and the food and beer are really good....
BUT this place feels odd, it seems transformed by tourism. We have seen more tourists in 48 hours here than in an entire month in India. There are some nice things to do, such as animal refuges, waterfalls, caves, and jungle walks, but it all seems over organized . For $25-$100 per head there are lots of offers, but we generally don't do that if a walk or a touk touk will take us there, and in any case maybe the nouveau riches hippies can afford $25, but for 6 of us that implies $150. "Maybe children are $10 less," but then again, maybe not. That would still make a visit to the elephant sanctuary cost $230 for half a day. The prices are surprising given that a good triple hotel room costs $45, and a meal with a beer is $3 or 4. Someone somewhere is making a large margin.
In any case, we came here to slow down a bit so that we will do, and we will be creative with the rest and get out and about.Leer más
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- Día 84
- jueves, 27 de octubre de 2022
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Altitud: 487 m
LaosKouangxi Water Fall19°44’58” N 101°59’30” E
Kuang Si Waterfalls & Pools

Laos is really very beautiful, we have breakfast on a platform in the middle of the hotel’s lily pond, one that Monet would have loved, then we travel through the country side on the “main” road for about 25km of thick luscious forest that covers rolling hills, some we should maybe call mountains, and in the valley’s there is beautifully green rice terraces.
Our destination is a waterfall, or rather a series of waterfalls and pools. Its not as powerful as Niagra, it doesn’t have the dimensions and wildlife of Iguazu, but it is really rather special because of the lovely turquoise blue colour of the water, in which one can swim at various places.
Our driver, who brought us here in a cross between a touk touk and a small van, suggests that we meet him again at 1pm, in other words, in two hours. We push back because we have heard this is a special place, and sure enough, we actually meet him again after 4 pm. Our self-organised tour cost $30, as opposed to the Tripavisor & Co., who wanted a mere $150. It wasn’t even difficult to arrange, just a quick word with the hotel front desk. I'm not sure what extras you get for $50 a head
I missed the best part apparently because I didn’t go all the way to the top, which, according to Oscar, was the best time of his life! Maybe if it's that good we will come back in two days’ time.
Certainly, the lower part is really great, and it’s just warm enough for swimming
At five, we head back because Lennox has a video call with his maths tutor, and the girls go to eat early since tomorrow. There is an early start at 07:30.Leer más
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- Día 85
- viernes, 28 de octubre de 2022
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Altitud: 495 m
LaosKouangxi Water Fall19°45’3” N 101°59’30” E
Markets - Health & Safety

Lennox and I took it easy today, whilst the girls and Flo took an extended cooking class, and Oscar hung out with them.
We did tag along for the 1st part of the cooking class by visiting the market. Amazing range of fruit, veg, rice, meat, and fish.
The meat part is enough to make anyone consider becoming vegetarian. All parts of pigs, cows, hens, etc. are on sale. It's not cooled, and the shade temperature is 32C. On some cuts, there are lots of flies. Delicious?
Apparently, it's better to buy meat in the morning. I wonder why?
Lennox and I walk back, there is no shade at all, and so after 3km, we take a touk touk. This is a nice way to travel, as the open structure creates a breeze. Just hope that you never have an accident, because that would be messy.Leer más
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- Día 86
- sábado, 29 de octubre de 2022
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Altitud: 488 m
LaosKouangxi Water Fall19°44’59” N 101°59’3” E
Why not? Ah snakes, ok then

Today, something rare on our tour we go back to where we were two days ago. Other than going more than once to the beach in Israel and going at night and then the next day to the centre of Samarkand, we have rarely done the same thing twice.
In this case, but for a small miracle, we do exactly what we did two days before. Same destination, same touk touk driver, same starting time. We go again to Kuang Si waterfalls.
On arrival, we want to 1st visit the butterfly village, but it's closed and has been for 2.5 years due to Covid. It only opens again on Nov 1st and today, Oct 29th 😞. Massive shame because Lola loves butterflies...but wait we see behind the closed doors a European guy. He comes to the gate and says it's closed, but then his wife arrives on a moped, and he says I like kids, so come in and have a look." 1st visitors since 2019!
The place, of course, has lots of butterflies, but beyond that, it is a truly beautiful place, with its own waterfall. The European couple who run the place ( dutch?) are lovely to the kids and answer loads of questions.
After nearly 2 hours, we drag Lola away and say our thank yous. Then off to the waterfalls and pools.
This time I make it to the top and it is really quite amazing. Chilled, calm, and beautiful.
An old guy tells Oscar off for climbing from the pool to the river bank. Seems odd, so Flo asks why. He says there are snakes, but they don't go in the water as it's too cold for them. Aha, ah, ok responds Flo.
Later, we go down alongside the main waterfall and swim in the lowest pool.Leer más
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- Día 87
- domingo, 30 de octubre de 2022
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Altitud: 238 m
LaosVang Vieng18°55’24” N 102°26’52” E
Laos Trains put UK to shame

This was a very easy, do not much day. Our last day in Luang Prabaang. Get up late, pack bags, lunch, and/or swim. Later train to Vieng Vang.
First hiccup the ticket price that the hotel bought for us. It says on the tickets 680,000 Kip, so about $40, but the hotel says they have to charge $82. There follows various explanations like the price, which includes the touk touk to the station, but that is only $10, so they have another $32 to explain. After a while they admit the truth, they paid a ticket tout $60, because of course in good old India style there are no tickets left, ( at face value), and for good measure they added a nice additional margin, that they abruptly dropped. The government has tried to stop this by only putting tickets on sale very short term and by adding ID details in the ticket, but somehow, this isn't working.
As I check out, I see the government rules on hotels. Young people, please take note of rule B3.
The next hurdle is when to be at the train station. The hotel suggests 2 hours before, we say we said train station, they still insist 2h. In the end, we settled for 1.5h, which was still 1h too much. I suspect the hotel employees have never been on the train.
The station is in the best Soviet style with a bit of recent tech. Like Uzbekistan tickets are checked and bags are scanned like at an airport, but there is no queue since there is ONE train this evening. There is also not a single shop, not one in the vast empty train station.
What I haven't mentioned is that these train lines and trains are brand new, having opened in 2021. The line runs from China to the capital, with 5 stops in Laos. It cost $6bn, and I suppose a significant part came from China. Whatever the politics of this, there are undoubtedly benefits for Laos, though it can be argued that it just increases the already heavy dependency.
The reference to the UK is in the headline. Well, Laos has high-speed trains of the >200km/h variety before the country where the industrial revolution started. Very strange, and something Brits should reflect upon.Leer más
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- Día 89
- martes, 1 de noviembre de 2022
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Altitud: 236 m
LaosHouay Sang Au18°55’30” N 102°26’51” E
Vang Vieng

The day before , we moved south to Vang Vieng on the bullet train. This town is located in a beautiful valley that is surrounded by limestone mountains and hills.
We therefore took full advantage of that and climbed up a rather steep path for about an hour to the Nam Xay viewpoint, which does give stunning views. I managed to sit peacefully and admire at the top, despite occasional bouts of vertigo driven anxiety. The way down was a bit harder for the kids as the steps on the rock are quite large at times.
Near the bottom just 5 minutes away is a blue lagoon, where we went to cool off and have a snack. All of the kids jumped into the lagoon from a 5m platform. The other visitors cleared and clapped, including adults who confessed to me that they couldn't even swim.
Overall, Vang Vieng is a bit strange. It's dominated by tourists. It feels a bit soulless as a result. Nevertheless, it's pleasant and relaxing, and we do need a break from being active 24/7Leer más
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- Día 90
- miércoles, 2 de noviembre de 2022
- ☀️ 28 °C
- Altitud: 228 m
LaosNam Thèm18°58’39” N 102°25’55” E
90 Days - rapid and on a rapid

90 days have passed rapidly. One strange thing is that there are effectively no weekends, and days of the week have also lost meaning .
There have been till we reached Laos almost no, do-nothing days. But here we have managed two, woohoo. Well, in reality, we did do something today, but it was [mostly] very easy, very chilled, and very beautiful. We floated about 10km down the Nam Song river on inner tubes of tractor tyres ( Flo and me) and yellow floatation rings ( kids).
There were 4 sets of rapids en route, but as long as you kept your bum up, there was little risk of injury.
Also en route was a nice little riverside bar, where I was forced to drink a cold Lao beer. Same torture at the end of the ride. 🍺
After that I went to the train station, and a miracle occurred, ( one that I expected), namely that there were plenty tickets for our train in two days, and the price at face value for all was $29, whereas the hotel offered to buy the tickets on the secondary market for $71 because the train was full. On the last train with the same story, the entire 1st class was empty, not that we travel 1st class, but we could have for the price we paid the ticket touts.Leer más
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- Día 94
- domingo, 6 de noviembre de 2022
- ☀️ 31 °C
- Altitud: 172 m
LaosVientiane17°58’5” N 102°36’3” E
Vientiane - Capital of Laos

The train journey in the high speed train was relaxed and uneventful. The spectacular scenery around Vang Veng gave way to flatter less interesting rice fields, and there were no more tree topped hills. However, everywhere that farmers left uncultivated, there was plenty of green
We headed into town, and then out to the night market, which we assumed [wrongly] was s street food place, instead it was a clothes, electrical stuff, and other stuff market, where the main thing seemed to be fake branded Versace, Gucci, etc. So after a while, we realised our error and by a process I do not quite understand, ended up in a Korean restaurant, that turned out to be pretty good.
I should mention that although almost everywhere else quality, value, and service were excellent, our hotel in Vientiane was a sad exception. The “Garden Villa”, formerly known as the “Garden Boutique” was badly misnamed. Our rooms were passable, but service, and especially breakfast, were dreadful. The manager’s answer to everything was “my staff are taking care of it”, except of course they were not, or not properly. Strangely we didn’t care that much as our priority was to get ahead with home schooling before we meet Grandpa in Japan, so on day 1 we did not do that much, but we did at least manage to find some street food in the evening, and see a bit how the local middle class youths spend their free time. However, we did not find anywhere to sit, so we went off to a local restaurant near the river. It's really excellent.
Our final full day in Vientiane started with a poignant reminder of Laos’s indirect involvement in the Vietnam War. The Ho Chi Minh trail passed in two areas through Laos, and as a result, the US relentlessly bombed Laos. The bombers came at a rate of one every 8 minutes for 9 years. The bombs used were mainly cluster bombs and fire bombs (white phosphorous). Of course at the time there was untold death and destruction, but sadly when the war ended the deaths and injuries continued at a high rate due to millions upon millions of unexploded cluster bombs, that are the size of a tennis ball. They go off when hit by a digging spade by cooking a fire above them and other reasons. The result is alongside the many deaths tgetecare a significant number of lost limbs. We saw this at first hand in an exhibition at the local site where prosthetic limbs are produced and fitted for victims. The material essentially covers four topics. The background of the Vietnam war, the impact of UXO (unexploded ordinance), the limb fitting practices over time, from home made to models based on western tech and methods, and finally efforts since the year 2000 to systematically clear away the UXO. It clearly got through to both us adults and our children.
In the afternoon, we went to the main Buddhist stupa in the capital (That Luang). I wasn’t expecting much after already seeing so many, but this one was indeed impressive, and to add to the interest, there was a religious festival during the time we were there. This was mostly visible in that many local visitors were making donations of fruit and flowers, which were usually elaborately prepared. There was also a very enterprising teenage boy who waited for donors to disappear, and then he took the best flowers and stuffed them in a bag, presumably to sell them a second or 3rd time.
The next day, we headed out of Vientiane and Laos to catch a plane to Bangkok from Udon Thani in northern Thailand. We followed the advice of the hotel manager and google maps that time to get there was 2 hours for a total distance of 58km, but what they forgot to mention was the border controls on the Laos side (quite fast) and the Thai side (intolerably slow). To avoid missing our flight we abandoned our bus and hired a taxi. Luckily that got us to the airport on time, and the rest of the day went smoothly, except for one little boy having a pretty difficult set of tantrums that upset the delicate balance of our tired team. Every group is dependent on the weakest link.Leer más

ViajeroWhat was actually up with the hotel, you don't say much! I remember seeing exhibitions about the impact of uxo in Vietnam years ago and it was just awful, and pretty much everyone has forgotten about it. Apart from the tantrums, are the kids managing ok?
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- Día 96
- martes, 8 de noviembre de 2022
- 🌩️ 33 °C
- Altitud: 17 m
TailandiaKhlong Wat Thepphathida13°44’42” N 100°29’51” E
Bangkok redux

Before heading off to Japan, we had two days in Bangkok. This 2nd visit was radically different from the 1st. We stayed in a hostel, not a hotel. The hostel was way better! We didn’t visit any traditional tourist sites, other than a collection of local traditional art, and we mainly walked around the newer part of the city with its busy roads.
The art collection and house of Jim Thomson is really worth it. Tasteful house with beautiful local pieces from 800 onwards. Thomson was a silk company owner who disappeared and was presumed dead, and we have this disappearance to thank for the house being turned into an exhibition.
After that, more street food, but rather weird, it's loads of the usual stalls, but all indoors with ac. Makes sense midday given the heat and humidity.Leer más
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- Día 98
- jueves, 10 de noviembre de 2022
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitud: 10 m
JapónKamejima35°10’25” N 136°52’47” E
Arrival in Japan

As we approach Japan, we fly past Oita, where I first visited as a young engineer working for Siemens and its cooperation partner Toshiba. Back then, the world was different, Japan was booming, but maybe more importantly, for me personally, I was exposed to a totally different culture and business world. Our Japanese colleagues liked to eat , drink, sing, and dance after work, typically calling it a day when half were sleeping. I suspected I was taken along by the Siemens directors because they had difficulty dealing with that, rather than my technical skills. So I ate, drank a lot, sang and danced. The whole set up did however hugely benefit my career, as I fell into the role of intermediary between the companies, which was partially technical, but importantly I was a sort of linguistic and cultural bridge as my German and Japanese colleagues had shall we say communication issues.
When I moved to Pharma, I also came to Japan on multiple occasions. (Last one, I had a project in Fukushima before our partners were hit by disaster) Japan changed, but Japan remained very, very unique. So today, after a gap of nearly 10 years, I am excited to go back.
The kids are super excited, but for entirely different reasons. G R A N D P A P A is flying in to join us. Indeed, I can relax a bit here, since Bernard and his travel agent have arranged everything. No transfers for me to set up, no hotels to book, no days to plan. Everyone can also enjoy fixed prices, cleanliness, wonderful and safe food, and so on.
The wheels have just gone down, so that’s two minutes to landing. Excited 😊.
Hmmm 1st steps rather difficult. Entry is not one but 3 queues despite filling out over 150 pages, and then the taxi. We have to take 2 as they actually follow safety rules here 😁, but woh the price $250 and that with a weak yen. We shall have to live off bread and water if we have more of that. The next step goes better with 2 haircuts (Flo and Oscar) costing $53 in total. About 1/3 of Geneva price. Flo's cut is really the top 💇♀️
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Ross will be jealous this is the country he always says he wants to visit... I am sure he will sometime. He will be a bit close in South Korea next year. Have fun - catch your Pokemon x [JTM]

ViajeroYou've never told me about your Siemens trips to Japan, sounds cool! I absolutely loved be Japan, so hope you all have fun 😁
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- Día 100
- sábado, 12 de noviembre de 2022
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Altitud: 486 m
JapónKōyabayashi35°36’22” N 137°28’22” E
Shogun Trail

On the afternoon of the 10th, we finally met up with Grandpa and our guide Daniel Glinz, whom Bernard had known for a long time, and who was his guide back in 2006. The kids were ecstatic to see Grandpa and quickly warmed to Daniel, too. While Bernard took a nap, the erst of us went for a walk from the hotel to the castle in Nagoya. Maybe the French word chateau is a better description than castle. The main building is typically Japanese with curved Asian roofs. It's striking that it's tiny compared to the vast walls and moat that surround it. After the walk, food, of course sushi, yummy!
Our first full day in Japan was easy so that Grandpa Bernard could get over his jetlag. That didn’t mean we did nothing, far from it. We spent a large part of the day at a park with historical buildings. They were not reproductions. Instead, originals had been dismantled at their original sites and reassembled at a site just outside Nagoya.
Now, on day 3, we really got moving with an 8km walk from Magomejuku to Tsumagojuku. This was a small part of the route from Kyoto to Tokyo that during the Shogun times was used to travel to pay homage to the emperor.
The route is, though, pretty rolling hills that are covered in trees, and there are stunning parts with fire red Japanese maples since its autumn here.
At each end of the walk, there are villages, but they look and feel very different. Magomejuku is filled with local tourists when we are there at the start of our walk, whereas Tsumagojuku is almost devoid of tourists, or anyone else for that matter. It’s also larger and quainter. It's very strange that there are crowds of locals at one, but not the other.
On the 8km walk it’s also noticeable that there are very few locals who do the walk, and Daniel suggests this might be because the locals are often on organised 2 or 3 day tours.
Now we head towards our next overnight stop in a Ryokan, which is a traditional Japanese hotel, where we will sleep in traditional rooms and eat traditional food. Report on that tomorrow.Leer más

ViajeroI stayed in a Ryokan when I was in Kyoto. I really enjoyed it, but not sure I could sleep on the floor long term. Where are you off to after Nagoya? Would you recommend a visit, or is it just a necessary entry point to the trip?
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- Día 101
- domingo, 13 de noviembre de 2022, 8:09
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Altitud: 499 m
JapónUshikubi Dani36°15’50” N 136°54’21” E
Ryokans and mountain villages

The previous two nights, we stayed in two different ryokans ( traditional Japanese hotels with mattresses on the floor and full board meals, of course Japanese style).
The whole experience is like a ceremony. You wear a traditional robe. For small groups, food is served in your room. You sit on the floor cross-legged or kneeling ( impossible for me, so I have a cheat seat). In a larger group like ours of 8, food is served in a separate room. The menu is fixed, with as many as 10 dishes, all served more or less at once. Q. "What order should I eat them in ?" A. " Up to you." Then there are lots of what's that questions. I'm general. The food is very good, and sometimes is exceptional, such as whole skewered salted fish, and of course, some dishes are dull or disappointing. That said, it's a very pleasant experience, especially in a group, and something not to be missed in Japan. Whilst we were at dinner, the mattresses are laid out in the room. Guests can bathe in a large bath to warm up, not to clean, that is done beforehand with a handheld shower, a sink, and a bucket.
In the morning, we visited Shirakawa, a well-preserved mountain village, where the houses are a cross between a Swiss chalet, and and English thatched farmhouse. One old building serves as a living museum and as the place that shows the farming tools of the past. It also contains a Buddhist temple, nor a Shinto
During the village walk, it was still cold but no longer raining, but when we saw a cafe we took the chance of a warm drink. The customers were entirely European, but the offerings, service, and presentation were very Japanese. It seems, however, that Japanese learnt coffee making from Americans, and so the drink itself is rather poor.
Afterwards, we headed to Hikone and already enjoyed the lit up view of the castle from our rooms. We also enjoyed a very modern Japanese bath at 42C, which also had a nice view of the castle. Strangely, the spa area offers free beer, though customers are told not to take more than one, so I obeyed and only took one at a time.
After a wonderful steak for dinner at a restaurant near the hotel (my favoriteso far), we all slept deeply in our conventional beds 🛌 😴.Leer más
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- Día 101
- domingo, 13 de noviembre de 2022
- 🌧 15 °C
- Altitud: 619 m
JapónKatanomachi36°8’24” N 137°15’48” E
Beauty in Bad Weather

Driech Takayama
“Dreich” is a Scots word meaning cold and wet, and for the 1st time in our 101 days, it is driech. It had rained buckets in Kenya for a couple of hours. It was cold and misty in the morning in Namibia, but neither of these fit the meaning. However, today in Takayama , it dreich. This is made slightly worse than it might otherwise be because in old Japanese houses, they are effectively open or semi open. They have no glass, and it seems the front door is always open. So, whilst Takayama was very beautiful and interesting, my enthusiasm this afternoon was damped by the weather.
I should be clear that up till midday, the weather was dry, and it was rather mild, but not chilly. Then the late afternoon was dreich, but the morning was not.
In the morning, we had sung happy birthday to Nora, who is 9 today. Knowing that we would be in a traditional hotel with only traditional breakfast, we smuggled in waffles, mango juice, and other treats for her. Just as well, as she ate nothing from the cold trout, onions & rice, miso, and pickled ginger. She looked happy that we had thought ahead for her. The night had been quite comfortable, and Oscar and I had slept well on our Japanese futons (floor mats), although he didn’t settle for a long time when going to bed, but that had nothing to do with the bedding. We had eaten a delicious banquet of Japanese food all together in the main hall of the Ryokan, which nowadays, at least for westerners, had seats. I am not sure I could have sat even a fraction of the time in the Buddha position on the floor. Lola, whose hobby is cooking, and who loves Japanese food, was quite ecstatic. The meal was made all the nicer by the very old waitress, who helped us eat properly and who had a laugh at our ineptitude.
The morning walk through Tagayama’s old town, which is a conservation area, was interesting. We visited the morning market, which was a mixture of food and souvenirs. The next street was well preserved but entirely empty of Japanese. We had encountered the same phenomenon the day before. Japanese tourists are only to be found where there are shops and markets 😊. That left us alone, but for a Belgian trio to explore the street and to go into one of the houses. This was the street of the wealthy merchants, and the particular one we visited had been owned by a man who was both a saki merchant and banker. His house was large, certainly more than 200m2, and very minimally and tastefully decorated. The style is much the same as for smaller houses. It's just the quality, details, and size that change.
As the rain came around lunchtime, we looked for an open coffee shop or restaurant, but we only found a noodle shop. Again, not Nora, our birthday girl’s favourite, but again, we had bought goodies in advance for her. Maybe the food was not for her, but she was delighted with the GoPro, for her birthday, which I must say was ¾ paid for by birthday and Xmas money she had collected over a longer period. “Best Birthday present ever”
After lunch, we headed for the well conserved regional offices from the Edo period, from where the entire region had been administered. Alongside the admin, there were also courts, with torture facilities and a large grain store. Taxes were paid by the peasants in the form of grain, and the exhibits demonstrated that the peasants rebelled, at times violently, against tax rises. These rebellions were always put down with equal violence and added vigour. Since the buding was effectively open, I was very cold, so I rushed through the exhibition. Let’s see if the others tell me I missed something.
When I was outside, I looked [ in vain] for a coffee shop, only finding innumerable vending machines for soft drinks, a saki shop, and multiple ice cream shops. Oh well, back to find the others, then back in the bus and a one-hour drive to our next destination.Leer más
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- Día 103
- martes, 15 de noviembre de 2022
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitud: 74 m
JapónHikone35°16’24” N 136°15’2” E
Hikone Castle

It's astonishing to think that Japan remained closed and mired in local wars until the 19th century. The enlightenment came more than 200 years later than Europe.
Hikone castle in the town of Hikone is a relic of the era of Edo and the shoguns.
Japanese castles look palatial on the outside, but our guide assures me this was .a castle for defence, and sure enough, that was clear after visiting . The elegant palatial exterior hides only a simple, internal architecture. There are holes through which to shoot arrows and guns. The castle also has a large, elegant garden. The kids and grandpa ride back to the hotel on a bycle driven rickshaw.Leer más

ViajeroThis looks like the spitting image of the castle in central Osaka, just a bit smaller. Some of them are very cool, but I found a few had been too heavily restored when I was there.

ViajeroThe trees look amazing, but I guess you've just missed the peak of the season?

EzyianDepends the red Japanese maple is red right now. So maybe more colour a week ago, but still plenty
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- Día 106
- viernes, 18 de noviembre de 2022, 10:00
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Altitud: 38 m
JapónKita Ike35°40’45” N 139°41’57” E
Ise & Nara Shrines of Shinto and Buddha

The rulers in ancient and more recent times knew how to control people with religion. Japan is a prime example of that. Shinto was a worship of nature until Buddhism was introduced around AD500. Unlike much of Asia, it didn’t take over, but it merged with Shinto to create a unique Japanese version. The merger overcame the scepticism of locals by explaining that certain Buddhist characters were the same as Shinto ones.
That explains a little that the Shinto temples in Nara are full of Buddhas and Buddhist characters. I found the large one at Nara deer park to be particularly impressive, but Flo preferred the smaller and temple at Horyuji. Daniel helped us to understand the evolution and different forms of Buddhism. Some European feminist hippies might be disappointed to learn that one type of Buddhism believes [believed] that women can only reach niravana after they have a next life as a man.
In Nara the architecture is heavily influenced by Chinese styling, but in both Ise and Nara there is consistent use of the simple Japanese colours schemes of white, with either dark wood, or reddish brown painted pillars.
The day before in Ise, we had been to the Shinto temples there, which in themselves are striking, but even more so in the ancient woods in which they are placed. The surrounding hills also add to the beauty of the places.Leer más
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- Día 106
- viernes, 18 de noviembre de 2022, 14:00
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Altitud: 79 m
JapónNara-eki34°40’51” N 135°49’8” E
Japan is serious, crazy & innovative

The Japanese culture is hard to understand. On the one hand, they are terribly serious. The culture is driven by fear or mistakes of being out of place. This explains, for example, the fact that they are still paranoid about Covid and that mask wearing indoors in public buildings are compulsory and that outside around 95% wear face masks. Now, I am not a Covid denier, not in the least. But after most people who want to be are triple or quadruple vaccinated and a large number have had Covid, this level of caution seems utterly mad. In hotel buffets, it goes further and requires that you wear gloves to handle serving spoons and tongs.
On a more day to day basis, it's striking just how conservatively people are dressed at work or even visiting tourist sites. Clothes, cars and lots more are perfectly clean and free from any blemish. This does, of course, have upsides for us at least, in that we can eat and drink without fear of getting sick, and we can relax a bit about our money or stuff being stolen. It also means that when I wash 4 pairs of shoes in a hotel washing machine, and it breaks down, the strongest rebuke I get is that they say the machine is not designed for that.
On the other hand, there are aspects of Japanese culture that are completely crazy from a Western standpoint. They have games stores where you can win all sorts of crap by grabbing them with a remote pick-up arm. The large store has as many as 50 different kinds of these games, all very brightly lit, with lots of vibrant colours, especially pinks. They have pachinko halls, where people sit and watch ball bearings fall through a metal maze. ( a bit like a vertical pin ball machine, without the flippers). The hall is noisy, and it's not clear what the point/pleasure/other of this game is. And of course there is karaoke, sumo wrestling and more.
I should give Japanese tech a mention because there are things for which the world should be thankful, like hybrid cars and heated toilet seats. The latter has not caught on in the west, but it should do. The sheer pleasure of sitting down to a warm seat. Joyful! That said, it seems some Japanese are tempted to use these as foot warmers (see photo), even if that is not allowed. But who knows what goes on when the door is closed?.Leer más
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- Día 106
- viernes, 18 de noviembre de 2022
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Altitud: 79 m
JapónNara-eki34°40’51” N 135°49’8” E
Japanese Food: Variety & Fun

The Japanese certainly take food perfection and, in some cases, the experience of eating to a new level, and there are so many types. Everyone knows Sushi, but there are lots of other fish, meat, and vegetarian restaurants.
The kids and especially Lola, love it. For the fun element, it's difficult to beat Shinkansen Sushi, where you order on a tablet, and a little train brings your orderLeer más
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- Día 108
- domingo, 20 de noviembre de 2022
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Altitud: 12 m
JapónInari Yama34°19’51” N 134°2’41” E
Lola is 11, gardens, biscuits & tantrum

Today we went to the park in Takayama. Park is maybe the wrong word since it’s a large Japanese garden, and it's particularly beautiful, with the autumn reds and yellows right now. I let the pictures speak for themselves, and surely there are many more photos to come from Flo and Bernard.
It’s Lola’s 11th birthday today, and she is happy despite not having our traditional breakfast in bed with flowers. Instead, she has a Japanese breakfast, which she clearly loves. We did, of course, sing happy birthday and gave her a bunch of small gifts we had found in Nara.
After the garden, Lola went on to a lesson in making Japanese biscuits and sweets. Flo, Lennox, and Nora went too. Bernard took a well-earned rest, whilst I took Oscar for a walk to the local pachinko hall. He loved it and even more so a shop with about 200 “boule” machines which was opposite.
When all were back, Oscar had a tantrum, and so as a punishment, he missed the dinner, and as a result, so did I. After that, though, we still had birthday cake, made of mushi, a particular favourite of Lola. We had the candles in the room, so to prevent an evacuation, I played punkawallah to make sure the smoke didn’t reach the smoke detector
Lola is 11, hurrah!Leer más

Belated Birthday Greetings to Lola from the Scottish McG Fam xxxx Japan looks amazing. Cousin Ross is jealous. xx [JTM]
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- Día 109
- lunes, 21 de noviembre de 2022
- ☁️ 19 °C
- Altitud: 4 m
JapónOkameno Hana34°26’49” N 133°59’40” E
Art for Japan's sake

What is culture? Since I wasn’t sure, I looked up the dictionary definition, and as I suspected, there are two rather distinct definitions 1. the arts and other manifestations of human intellectual achievement regarded collectively. "20th century popular culture" 2. the ideas, customs, and social behaviours of a particular people or society. "Afro-Caribbean culture."
Today, we did both of the above by visiting the small island of Naoshima. Since its an island we needed a boat, since we didn’t have a helicopter, and rather strangely Takashima has a prominent helipad, but there is a huge hole in the middle, so that nothing can land on it. Is it an objet d’art? I'm not sure.
The boat trip took about an hour and was really pleasant. The views are mostly of the tree covered small islands and the main island, although there is the occasional shipyard thrown into the mix. It’s a fine autumn day with the sun out, and the sea is calm. There are several fishing boats that glide through the sea.
Of course, the boat and its crew are very Japanese. For example, every last detail of the evacuation is described. I suspect Japanese only die when boat sinks, from anxiety that they might take the wrong route to the life rafts. There is also no café, which would be fitting on such a charming route, and instead, there's a row of vending machines.
On arrival we are immediately served up some pop culture, but strangely the first serving and some latter ones are from Nicki de Saint Phalle (famous for her fat bottom ladies, especially those at the Pompidou centre in Paris), In this case no fat bottomed ladies, and since its Japan, I don’t think I even saw areal one all day, instead Nicki has large coloured pumpkins and other works at the harbour and near the islands Gallery of modern art.
The bus to the gallery fits both definitions of culture. Its exterior is painted with cartoon characters, whilst at the bus stop grim warnings are given as to how to behave, and inside the bus everyone is scrupulous not to fall out of line. Except for in ascending order of chaos Lennox, Lola, Nora, and Oscar, but everyone is polite and says nothing. Not even a critical look.
The gallery itself is everything that Bernard dislikes about modern art, but for once, we I have to say that he is maybe a [Modern]-Kulturbanause. Nobody is perfect. Flo, myself, and the kids are all very enthusiastic, we recognise some works that we have seen in the Tate Modern, and the works are overwhelmingly from Japanese artists, with no sign of Nicki here. Maybe it's clever marketing to use a famous European to lead you to the door, and then expose the visitor to the real talents of Japan.
Covid rules mean the restaurant has no free space for us, so we head back to the harbour for the Japanese version of Kentucky Fried Chicken, but in this case, with rice and a better sauce. After that, it's another pleasant boat trip back.
When we get back, the 3 younger ones demand that I take them to the “boule” shop and to see the Pachinko hall. We do that, and for a variety of reasons, we arrive late back to the hotel, by which time the restaurant is full. A hungry mum and grandpa is not too pleased, but we get back on track over a lovely bowl of udon at the railway station next door.Leer más

ViajeroThis sounds like it was actually a super nice day. I'm a little surprised actually the kids are allowed into the pachinko hall, isn't it essentially a gambling place? And I already thought we all knew Bernard was a bit of a snob when in came to modern art 😂

EzyianThey got kicked out of the Pachinko. can't be snob. I think you mean inverted snob
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- Día 111
- miércoles, 23 de noviembre de 2022
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitud: 14 m
JapónSakaimachi34°23’25” N 132°26’54” E
Hiroshima

Today Hiroshima is a rather faceless city with 1 million inhabitants. It's does however have a beautiful backdrop of green hills and mountains, and in front of the port, there are many small islands also covered in green. In the city itself there are all the autumn colours.
Of course but for what happened here at 0815 on the 6th of August 1945, we would not have visited, we came of course to put our mind and those of the children to the horrors of war and in particular the horrors of nuclear bombs.
To commerate the devastation, there are three elements all in or around a memorial park. There are monuments such as the cenotaph, an eternal flame, there are the remains of the engineering school, with its dome shaped roof, and there is a museum .
The monuments are a little underwhelming, as the remains of the engineering building next to them tell the story, more directly and more convincingly. The museum is frankly outstanding. Whoever made the concept and those who implemented it deserve enormous praise.
The exhibits tell the story, patiently in words, pictures, and objects such as clothing. The flow, pace, and level of detail are just right. That's good because the background, the event, the suffering, and what we should learn and do are all communicated clearly. It should be a compulsory visit for all generals and all politicians giving them orders. Sadly, it's not.Leer más
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- Día 112
- jueves, 24 de noviembre de 2022
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitud: 6 m
JapónItsukushima shrine34°17’46” N 132°19’10” E
Miyajima - Autumn leaves & shrines

After yesterday visit to Hiroshima, we took the boat to Miyajima. We stay here two nights in a Ryokan. The meal yesterday was exceptional, like a 1st class restaurant, and we can look forward to something similar tonight.
We spend the day visiting shrines and walking through the forest in it's Best autumn dress.Leer más
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- Día 114
- sábado, 26 de noviembre de 2022
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Altitud: 54 m
JapónGiommachi35°0’1” N 135°46’33” E
Kyoto - Autumn leaves and crowds

Autumn leaves reach their highpoint in Kyoto ( see the pictures), but since its Saturday, so do the crowds ( look closely at picture 6).
There are somewhat quieter spots to enjoy the sights and gardens because, as per usual, most locals are on organized tours and follow their guide who holds up a colored flag with a number on it.
Not quiet are the restaurants and we struggle both at lunch and dinner to find anywhere with space for us, but in the end we are lucky with some Japanese/Italian fusion for lunch and grill for dinner. Wagu beef is the highlight of the grill. Strangely, the last round of meat is either tripe or intestines , strange after 5 or 6 rounds of prime meat. Unsurprisingly, that plate is left untouched.Leer más
ViajeroYou've almost made it back to civilization! How did you get there from Kohima? Easy enough?
Ezyianvia Dimapur by road ( 2h for 60km) and then fly to Calcutta (1.2h) then 3 hour flight.
ViajeroSo much transit sounds painful....
EzyianNo not really, we could have eaten outside Calcutta airport, but we had, had enough dirt and grime, so we stayed a few hours in the modern airport . Plus in general flights have all been on time, and with one exception service is very good
ViajeroYou still mostly on budget? Kids managing with the pace of everything?
Ezyianin Asia yes on budget, in Africa we were a bit above, but not dramatic
ViajeroGood!