Osaka to Kyoto

Our first breakfast at a konbini under our belt (good coffee, less than average croissant and inconveniently over-packaged banana), we were on one of several train transfers required to make it to Kyoto. We luckily found ourselves given a bum steer by an overly helpful train assistant which put us on the milk run train. That turned out to be a blessing in disguise because we saw people shoved in like sardines on the express train on other platforms, even on a Saturday morning, which just wouldn't have worked for us and our backpacks. As it turned out, we had spacious train carriages with a seat the whole way, and it only took about 20 minutes longer.

We arrived at the Piece Hostel Sanjo which was a recommendation from Craig from earlier this year. Our room was ready early, so we were able to dump our bags and head off to explore.

Right around the corner were the Nishiki Markets, so we did some reconnaissance and found somewhere to eat which included a little side arcade with tables and stools. Tempura vege rice bowl, very filling! The market ended with the first of what has turned out to be a LOT of temples and shrines. We then wandered in the direction of the Kamo River and came across Pontocho Alley with lots of traditional buildings, so we headed down there. Crossing the river, we walked towards the Heian Jingu Shrine and gardens but on the way stumbled across a bric-a-brac market in a large park and loads of people playing their Saturday afternoon sport, so we stayed for a bit to watch what looked like the under 12s baseball match. A peaceful meandering through the gardens punctured by the occasional murderous grunting from somewhere nearby, which turned out to be a kendo session in progress.

We started to head back following the river, which was well patronised by locals and tourists alike. Lots of overly dressed dogs (as in, the dogs seemed to be wearing way too many clothes for... well... dogs!). There were dance classes practicing, runners, group Tai Chi sessions, musicians playing. We then walked the length of the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden.

A good solid 20,000 steps today. Dinner was a konbini delight, before joining an almost three hours zen workshop at the hostel. Run by a dude called Zane, who moved to Japan ten years ago, the workshop was in three parts. A 10-minute zen meditation, a session on learning the basics of calligraphy on washi paper (respect to all talented calligraphers), and we then made matcha tea and had the basics of a tea ceremony explained to us. We ended up being relaxed by meditation, frustrated by calligraphy although our eternity kanji symbol looked reasonably ok to the untrained eye I thought 🤔. Doing a bit of calligraphy on washi was great because we are booked into a washi paper-making workshop during our hike next week.

Workshop was brilliant, but sad to say I am not a fan of matcha tea. I am not a fan of tea generally, but had hoped to find my tribe in matcha tea. Alas, that was not to be. Zen.

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