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- Day 3
- Sunday, December 7, 2025 at 8:35 PM
- 🌙 8 °C
- Altitude: 31 m
JapanKyoto35°0’29” N 135°45’53” E
Osaka temples, gardens and monkeys
Yesterday in Japan ⋅ 🌙 8 °C
What a big day walking! 30,848 steps later, Lynette and I are weary and exercised out.
Today's adventure started with an all you can eat (but only one coffee or juice!!) breakfast buffet at the hostel. We managed to set ourselves up well for the day, which is good, because who had time for stopping to eat!
We left the hostel by 9.30am with the bright idea of walking to today's destinations. We used ChatGPT over breakfast to design our routine and it seemed dubious of our desire to do as much walking as we eventually did. First up it was a brisk 6 km walk through Kyoto cityscape and suburbs to Kinkaku 'Golden' Temple (and it was, very gold and very shiny!), but we managed to take a photo with perfectish water reflections, and not much crowd.
Next stop was Ninna-ji Temple and surrounds, a further 2.5 kms walk into suburbia. We walked through The Goten buildings, saw more temples, some lovely gardens and the very, very tall 5-storey Gojuno-to Pagoda. Iced coffee was partaken in lieu of lunch. By then it was 11.30am and we started on the next leg of our trip with almost 5 km to the Tenryu-ji Temple complex and gardens, best known for being next to the Bamboo Forest. By this time we had started to come across a lot of other tourists all trying to see the same sights, which was a tad disconcerting and slowed us down somewhat. But we courageously battled on!
From the Bamboo Forest we strolled down to the river where lots of folk were out boating on a not so sunny afternoon.
We then crossed over some old wooden bridge famous for not having collapsed as yet (Lynette's description, not mine, but probably accurate, named Togetsukyo Bridge) to go see some monkeys. They made us work hard for this privilege by putting said monkeys at the top of a mountain. Not happy, Jan! Or at least my calves weren't, after the initial set of stairs that seemingly went on forever. After that, the path was just a slope with no stairs, so much more manageable! Anyways, we made it to the top, took photos of the city and saw a lot of monkey butts and other very red genital bits and pieces.
From there Lynette and I admitted defeat and we changed our plans for the rest of the day. It was just after 4pm and we had thought to catch a train back to town to go visit the Geisha district and have dinner. Turns out, we aren't as young as we think we are and we decided that there was dignity in admitting to limitations. So we trekked back over the bridge that stubbornly still refused to fall down, and made our way to a bus stop to head home.
A kind local lady recognised our inability to decipher the bus system and helped us out by explaining something in Japanese which we didn't understand but thankfully ended with us all very happy and both of us on the milk run bus on the way back to the hostel . Fortunately, it was the right bus, going in the right direction and we made it back to town 40 minutes and 24 stops later later.
After a quick stop at the hostel to do some seriously needed stretching, we headed back out to go to a local ramen restaurant, called Moon and Back, that did some killer wagu and vegan ramen noodles (not in the same bowl...) complete with Australian photos on the wall because the owner is a Japanese chef who worked in Sydney for a bit. We rolled our way out of there not long after, Lynette having educated me on the children's classic "Guess how much I love you?" (I didn't understand the reference in the name, Lynette is in dismay).
We are now hanging out in the hostel lounge trying to catch up on travel blog entries, listening to ABBA. Will not take much rocking tonight after around 20 kms of walking.
Photos coming soon... We are asleep 🥱Read more
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- Day 2
- Saturday, December 6, 2025
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 32 m
JapanPIECE HOSTEL SANJO35°0’29” N 135°45’54” E
Osaka to Kyoto
December 6 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Our first breakfast at a konbini under our belt (good coffee, less than average croissant and inconveniently over-packaged banana), we were on one of several train transfers required to make it to Kyoto. We luckily found ourselves given a bum steer by an overly helpful train assistant which put us on the milk run train. That turned out to be a blessing in disguise because we saw people shoved in like sardines on the express train on other platforms, even on a Saturday morning, which just wouldn't have worked for us and our backpacks. As it turned out, we had spacious train carriages with a seat the whole way, and it only took about 20 minutes longer.
We arrived at the Piece Hostel Sanjo which was a recommendation from Craig from earlier this year. Our room was ready early, so we were able to dump our bags and head off to explore.
Right around the corner were the Nishiki Markets, so we did some reconnaissance and found somewhere to eat which included a little side arcade with tables and stools. Tempura vege rice bowl, very filling! The market ended with the first of what has turned out to be a LOT of temples and shrines. We then wandered in the direction of the Kamo River and came across Pontocho Alley with lots of traditional buildings, so we headed down there. Crossing the river, we walked towards the Heian Jingu Shrine and gardens but on the way stumbled across a bric-a-brac market in a large park and loads of people playing their Saturday afternoon sport, so we stayed for a bit to watch what looked like the under 12s baseball match. A peaceful meandering through the gardens punctured by the occasional murderous grunting from somewhere nearby, which turned out to be a kendo session in progress.
We started to head back following the river, which was well patronised by locals and tourists alike. Lots of overly dressed dogs (as in, the dogs seemed to be wearing way too many clothes for... well... dogs!). There were dance classes practicing, runners, group Tai Chi sessions, musicians playing. We then walked the length of the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden.
A good solid 20,000 steps today. Dinner was a konbini delight, before joining an almost three hours zen workshop at the hostel. Run by a dude called Zane, who moved to Japan ten years ago, the workshop was in three parts. A 10-minute zen meditation, a session on learning the basics of calligraphy on washi paper (respect to all talented calligraphers), and we then made matcha tea and had the basics of a tea ceremony explained to us. We ended up being relaxed by meditation, frustrated by calligraphy although our eternity kanji symbol looked reasonably ok to the untrained eye I thought 🤔. Doing a bit of calligraphy on washi was great because we are booked into a washi paper-making workshop during our hike next week.
Workshop was brilliant, but sad to say I am not a fan of matcha tea. I am not a fan of tea generally, but had hoped to find my tribe in matcha tea. Alas, that was not to be. Zen.
Photos to follow...Read more
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- Day 1
- Friday, December 5, 2025
- ☁️ 10 °C
- Altitude: 14 m
JapanStar Gate Hotel Kansai Airport34°24’40” N 135°17’60” E
Brisbane to Osaka
December 5 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
After battling with an extraordinary number of cars trying to get into the international airport, we made it to the airport for the flight to Japan. Thanks Paul for the chauffeur service! Jetstar self check-in was chaotic to say the least and Lynette and I (and many others) were afflicted with a similar inability to scan our passports! We didn't realise the scanning lurgy was going to plague us the rest of the day. Our packs are super light at just 8kg each, plus about 4kg for our day packs. We are travelling lean!
Bottles of water, coffee and almond croissant (for me) purchased and we settled in to wait for departure.
We left a bit late but the flights was uneventful and we arrived only a little later than expected. I passed the time on the flight with two of the longest movies in recent history, each well over three hours. Getting through all the check-in points to exit the airport was relatively painless despite a few more scanning difficulties. I ran into a colleague from work, so we chatted whilst waiting for Lynette's bag to eventually arrive.
Cash was then extracted, travel card topped up and train platform identified. Slight panic then ensued when Lynette realised she had left her day pack at the rail pass machine and had to dash out of the railway station area to reclaim it. The pack was just where she had left it courtesy of Japanese honesty! Of course, every visitor has just handed over their fingerprints on the way into the country, so you'd be foolish to attempt any crime. 🙂
We took a train one long stop to the mainland and navigated our way to our accommodation, Hotel Star Gate which was quite literally metres from the station. We were given a premium suite on the 48th floor, just 5 down from the top. It all looks a bit swish, with bathrobes and slippers and a plethora of free stuff in the bathroom. Very comfy beds and just enough pillows for me... Three instead of my usual five, but I coped.
Tomorrow's challenge: take four trains to get to Kyoto.Read more
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- Day 1
- Friday, December 5, 2025
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 49 m
AustraliaCity of Brisbane27°33’14” S 153°5’54” E
Ready to head off
December 5 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Lynette and I are packed up and ready to go!










TravelerHow can I live my life vicariously through your travel adventures if there are no photos to get me super jealous? I will just be mildly jealous