Padron to Santiago de Compostela

We'd been promised rain by 2 in the afternoon so an early start seemed the sensible option. As usual the way had been scoped out the night before and so was easy to find, even in the dark. The return of great numbers of pilgrims also meant it was impossible to miss the way.

It was set to be a long day and I knew the last 10km or so had seemed a drag the last time I'd walked it, so I'd decided to make inroads into the mileage before stopping for a break. As with all exits from large towns there's a fair amount of road walking through built up areas to contend with. Today was no different. I locked onto a loose group of three pilgrims about 100yds ahead of me and kept pace with them. This was the fastest I'd been walking all week, tipping in at 5km/hr. Only on the boat ride, where we'd clipped 40km/hr, had seen me travelling faster for the past 7 days.

The route for the first 10km is actually quite varied. Stretches of open road and little clusters of houses created enough distraction for me to be nearly 2 hours in when a stop at the Church of Santa Maria de Cruces provided the first sello of the day. It was unusual to find a church open so early in the morning unless Mass was scheduled. An observation, not a criticism.

Then we hit a stretch of forest and a big wave of pilgrims caught up with me. Along with groups of cyclists. I contemplated getting the poles out and keeping up with them, but prudence prevailed and I coasted at a pace I was comfortable with. I passed 15km and realised that not only had I not stopped but I'd not eaten this morning. Ahead I could hear the sound of a reasonable male voice belting out what sounded like traditional Galician folk music.

In the courtyard of a small church 3 hombres were singing their hearts out to a small group of well dressed locals. Polite applause greeting each song.
It was my 6th day rather than the 12th night, so I opted for some of the fresh churros and chocolate dip that was being sold at the side of the road next to the church. Fuelled with sugar, I blasted off to tackle the remaining miles.

After some more forrest paths we joined the bigger roads and again the gradient went easily into double figures and the sun made an unwelcome appearence. Up we went. Nothing to distract the eye. Look down, count to a hundred, repeat.

Ahead a large crowd had gathered outside the Capela Magdalena. An odd church inside, but pleasant for 5 minutes of quiet. A sello was offered and advice that from behind the chapel the twin spires of the cathedral could be seen in the "far distance". I'm not sure we needed the "far" part of the description.

With only 8km to go, it all came flooding back. Some soulless main roads, false respite as a park was entered, then endless kms along barren stretches. It would be a good 2 hours before the end.
As I'd done before, I took the wrong turn when a choice between San Marto and A Conxo was offered. Down the way plunged to a railway track before rearing up again. Pointless.

The outskirts of the city were reached and the long drag up to the cathedral began. The by now familiar streets were gone through and then it was over.

The scaffolding that had been present on my first arrival had gone, but in the square hundreds of pilgrims were gathering. Lots of large groups as well. This was something I'd noticed on the first two stages. Large, organised groups. Being self contained they had no need to seek the company of other pilgrims. In fact there had been times when I'd felt as if I was intruding when approaching them. An unwelcome change. Are all changes unwelcome?
"Stat crux dum volvitur orbis", The cross is steady whilst the world turns.

I decided I'd come back later to say hello to my friendBaca selengkapnya