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    • Day10

      Lake Garda, Verona and Vicenza

      May 24 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Buongiorno from Vicenza.

      Our biking routine is to get an early start for two reasons. First, it has been very hot so far on this trip with Europe experiencing another heat wave and the best cycling weather is the first few hours of the morning. By about 10 the heat starts to rise steadily. In addition, we are staying at hotels that host many cyclists and there is a bit of a traffic jam around the coffee machine about 8. Our approach is to quickly knock back a couple of macchiato (expresso with milk) to get the caffeine levels up, grab a small bite and race out. There seem to be lots of people biking this route with a number of companies. At one hotel, I counted 30 bikes locked up. So it’s a popular journey.
      On Monday, we left Trento and the mountains started to recede as we cycled south and we had a lovely smooth ride, until a sharp rise over the pass towards the east. We were rewarded with stunning views as we crested the ridge over Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy and a big holiday resort area. The rest of the ride was downhill and we were enjoying an Aperol Spritz and sandwich by noon. Even had time for a gelato before catching the slow ferry from the resort town of Rive del Garda. For 4 hours we watched colourful towns, huge palazzos, resorts and castles go by on our ferry ride across the lake. It looks like the entire area caters to everything from families (camp grounds and amusement parks) to the very wealthy.- huge resorts. We were scoping out some places for my brother Mac and his wife Steph as they like to “do it up.” They would be spoiled for choice around Lake Garda. Our hotel was at the south end of the lake at Piescheria where we enjoyed polenta, fish, and gnocchi for dinner along with wines grown in the Lake Garda Region. We stumbled across a super restaurant that was tucked into the walls of the old city. Picture enclosed.
      Yesterday we cycled a quick 35 km to Verona in time to do a walk around. I believe that I was pregnant with Jonathan the only other time I was in Verona and Jon is 40 now so I remember almost nothing . It’s a pretty busy place - like a second tier Italian destination after the big three - Rome, Venice and Florence. It was much busier that any other place we ‘ve been so far but even then the crowds were moderate and we had not problems getting a drink, lunch.
      Verona has a large Roman amphitheatre built before the Rome coliseum and it is in better shape although not as large. Same sort of blood sports took place in it originally but it is now a functioning open-air theatre and I was super disappointed that nothing was playing that we could attend. What a fabulous venue for a concert.
      The piazzas and small streets of Verona are beautiful and , according to Helen, the best preserved of any medieval town. The “main” castle - Castelvecchio - ” was build by the ruling family dynasty Scalger to protect themselves against all types of internal and external trouble-makers. It has all the good stuff like moats, towers and very fancy “crenellations” - word of the day that Helen taught me. Crenellations are those spiky things sticking up on a castle or fortress that protect the defenders from attacks. Helen was keen to see it more because it houses a museum and this was restored by a famous Italian architect . It was actually pretty amazing to see how functional the restorations were while looking seamless within the castle. The Domo or cathedral in Verona is also a real beauty, as they are. An Italian lady standing beside me cried out “ Bella, bella” and I replied with equal enthusiasm “ yes, bella, very beautiful”. She turned to me and said rather smugly “ Tutti Italia bella, bella “……can’t argue with that. For anyone who loves art, there is a Titian painting hanging in one of the small offshoot chapels.
      Most popular stop in Verona is at Juliet’s house which is believed to be—— or marketed to be—— the house of the Capuleti family - of the unhappy lover from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet story. I bought a ticket to see inside, after much ribbing from Helen and Mike. But I was on a mission and left a note for Juliet to ask that true love comes to all the lovely ladies in my life who are looking for love. You know who you are…..Juliet will have to do the rest.

      Today tested our biking metal. We rode 80 hot kms up and down . We did a long climb that was like riding to the top of Mount Doug. There was lots of traffic all day and when off road we were on bumpy tracks. We are in a busier, more industrial part of the country. The route tries to keep us away from heavy traffic but there were some real challenges. We did find shade in the school yard of what appeared to be a middle school and the kids came flooding out at lunchtime while we were sitting on a bench eating our bread and cheese. We all agreed that teenagers look, act and sound the same the world over - like dolphins!! Unfortunately, we got into Vicenza too late to see much of the city centre and the hotel isn’t in the nicest part of town. Rather less than salubrious. We hope to find some place nicer for dinner.

      In answer to the 3 questions we’ve been asked:

      1. How do we know where we are going? We have an excellent app called Ride with GPS that is light-years ahead of anything we have used before. Real time tracking of our route and cues when we’re off course. Only problem is that it occasionally looses the satellite - yesterday at a critical traffic circle - and the translation absolutely massacres the names of streets so it’s a crap shoot where to turn, at times. I’m still a map girl because it’s nice to get the big picture, but the app has been very good in the cities.

      2. How do you do your laundry?. Well, we rinse stuff out at night and if you look at the bike pics carefully you’ll see things hanging off the back. Sometimes this system fails and today Helen left a pair of socks somewhere between Verona and Vicenza. Fortunately, we passed a town with a market in progress and Helen now has enough socks for the next 10 years.

      3. Why aren’t you people losing weight? … Well no one really asked that that but I know you were thinking it. I refer you to earlier blogs and food pictures Did Stanley Tucci actually eat any of that food? In fairness, it’s not just a biking holiday.

      The scenery has changed and we are now cycling through olive groves, corn fields and lots of vineyards still. The mountains are gone but there are still lots of hills. We went through Soave - heart of some of the white wines that we drink at home. For the wine lovers, we were not up to having a bottle of Amarone last night even though we were in the right area. It’s a bit heavy. But we did enjoy the local Valpolicella which is actually the name of the wine district and not a particular wine So our wine was a blend of the local grapes and very fresh and tasty. There is wine on tap at the local bars and we often see the men sitting outside sipping wine at 10 in the morning. They are better men than me but then, they don’t have to cycle in a straight line.
      Tomorrow we head to Padua and then onto Venice.

      More to follow from Venice, thanks for all of your notes.
      Bye for now,
      Love Heather/ Mom/ Grandma xx
      Read more

      Sigh!! So beautiful. You make biking sound fun. [The Anti-cyclist sib]


      Fabulous photos! Thanks for sharing. Happy trails. [David Lawson]


      Great pics and stories of your Italian adventures. Sounds like your mapping totally outdoes our maps from the Dordogne where, on finishing, we realized we had gone in a circle. No GPS mapping, (D&R) [Diane & Ron]

      2 more comments
    • Day2

      Erste richtige Unterkunft 😍

      July 13, 2021 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

      Nach Venedig folgt die nächste Stadt: es geht nach Verona! Die Stadt der Familien Montague und Carpulet. Doch bevor es damit losgeht, heißt es 8km südlich ein Quartier für die Nacht zu finden. Etwas abgelegen liegt das kleine aber feine B&B „La Casa Di Susy-Verona“, was wir ehrlich gesagt erst übersehen haben. Doch als wir dann etwas unsicher reinkamen, wurden wir von einem sehr freundlichen und charmanten älteren Mann in Empfang genommen, der uns mit Trinken versorgte und uns die niedlichen und sehr gepflegten Zimmer zeigte. Hier konnte es nur schön werden!
      Der Eindruck wurde vollends bestätigt. Nicht nur ein privater Balkon stand zur unserer Verfügung, sondern als wir am nächsten Morgen zum Frühstück kamen, blieb uns die Spucke weg. Ein sehr liebevoll angerichtetes Buffet mit allerlei Speisen war für uns bereitet. Der nette Mann und seine Frau bedienten uns und ließen es an nichts fehlen. Es ist einfach nur der Wahnsinn, was die beiden für uns auf die Beine gestellt haben und zwar auch noch für einen sehr anständigen Preis.
      Wir haben uns gesagt: Wenn wir jemals noch einmal Urlaub bei Verona machen wollen ist das hier unsere erste Unterkunftswahl! Absolut empfehlenswert!
      Doch nach dem Frühstück gegen 10:30 Uhr hieß es dann (leider) für uns auch schon: Weiter fahren.
      Das 8km entfernte Verona wartet schon auf uns.
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      Sieht toll aus. Wünschen euch viel Spaß [Lilli]


      Eine BADEWANNE 🛀!!!!! Hat Moni es gleich ausgenutzt? ☺️


      Selbstverständlich, die hat man da gar nicht mehr rausbekommen 😂


      Nicht, dass sie jetzt Schwimmhäute hat :-D

    • Day8


      June 7 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Mein Aufenthalt in Verona ist super angenehm. Ich teile ein Haus mit einer Studentin aus Utah. Da wir beide viele Gemeinsamkeiten haben verstehen wir uns richtig gut und haben schon bestimmt 2-3 h miteinander gequatscht :)
      Außerdem gibt es in dem Häuschen eine Katze 🥰🥰🥰
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      Schön dass du in Verona angekommen bist. Wie war deine erste Strecke ohne Begleitung? Warst du bereits in der Altstadt?


      Super partage !! Maintenant tu as pu faire le plein d’énergie que tu auras besoin pour la suite de ton voyage. Alors bonne chance et bonnes rencontres sur ton chemin … J’attends par patience la suite… Bisous à bientôt


      Où es -tu ? Comment vas -tu ? Donne un signe de vie?

    • Day16

      Verona / Italien

      September 19, 2021 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

      Trotz nur 30 Minuten stoppen an der Kroatisch-Slowenischen Grenze und einem verlängerten Tankstopp, braucht es doch 8 Stunden um von Baric Draga ins italienische Verona zu gelangen.

      Nachdem wir 2 1/2 Std entlang der kroatischen Adria-Küste gen Norden fahren, verläuft der restliche Weg recht ereignislos. Der Regen ist treuer Begleiter.

      In Verona angekommen, erleiden wir einen kleinen Kulturschock. Nach den vergangenen Tagen alleine am ruhigen Meer, ist hier Lärm und Hektik angesagt. Je näher wir dem Stadion kommen, desto mehr ist das italienische Temperament spürbar. Autohupen, Sirenen, die Kompressoren brummen, theatralisches Gestikulierten - Benvenuto in Italia

      Personalisierte Tickets für das Spiel Hellas Verona gegen AS Rom gibt es für einen schmalen Taler. Das Stadion hat schon einige Jahre auf den Fundamenten, und glänzt mit ehrlicher, traditioneller Ausstrahlung.

      Nach einem Wolkenbruch in Halbzeit eins, entwickelt sich das Spiel in den zweiten 45 Minuten zu einem unterhaltsamen Event. Am Ende steht ein 3:2 (0:1) für das Heimteam.
      Read more


      Schön das du die regionale Freizeitkultur unterstützt 🥰

    • Day5

      Verona auf den Spuren von Romeo u. Julia

      July 5, 2021 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Nach der tollen Tour um den Gardasee ging es direkt weiter nach Verona. Die Stadt liegt unweit vom Gardasee und besitzt eine wunderschöne Altstadt, welche von einem Fluss und einer historischen Stadtmauer mit tollen Brücken umgeben ist. Logischerweise war eines der Highlights das Amphitheater und der berühmte Balkon von Shakespeares Julia. Aber auch der Rest der Altstadt war unglaublich schön und sehr historisch. Danach ging es weiter nach Padua, ein kleines italienisches Städtchen mit einem anscheinend sehr aktiven Nachtleben, so viele Bars gab es in Verona nicht. Nächster Stopp Venedig.Read more

      Alexander Butscher

      Bella Italia, bellissima Italia!!! Sieht alles toll aus - die Städte und ihr! :-)

    • Day5

      Verona pt 1

      November 8, 2021 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

      We got up and out early this morning to go to Verona. We took a cab to Milano Centrale station and took the 8:45 Freccia which took a like over an hour.

      When we arrived, it was raining, but not too hard. The walk into the center took about 20 minutes. We broke it up by stopping for coffee and pastries.

      Verona is more like the Italian cities I'm used to seeing. A little dull on the outskirts and great old center. We realized that most of the museums and attractions are closed on Mondays, so we just wandered around. We went by the Roman arena (closed) and Juliet's Tomb (closed), Somewhere in between, we walked around the old city wall.

      By then we were both getting hungry and started looking for food...
      Read more

    • Day12

      Zurück zum Anfang.

      June 24 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Die Wohnung in Verona haben wir uns mit drei Schwestern aus Frankreich geteilt. Eine konnte fließend Englisch. Ihre vier Kinder kommen schon gut ohne sie aus, sodass dies nicht der erste und nicht der letzte Trip zu dritt ist. Wir unterhalten uns nett und tauschen Tipps aus. Auf dem Weg nach Lazise halten wir bei einem großen italienischen Supermarkt. Hier wird ordentlich eingekauft. Für mich glutenfreie Nudeln die ich in Deutschland nicht bekomme und für unsere Familien mehrere 5kg Großpackungen. Das Mehl mit dem sie hier die tollen glutenfreien Pizzen zaubern, finden wir leider nicht. Übrigens sind wir nur für das Mehl in den Supermarkt. Wer kennt es?
      In Lazise schlendern wir noch mal kurz durch die kleinen Gassen und dann geht es schweren Herzens ins Auto und ab auf die Autobahn Richtung Schweiz. Es wird kälter und kälter umso näher wir Richtung Ziel kommen.
      Der Gotthardtunnel ist aufgrund eines Unfalls leider für mehr als 2std gesperrt. So lange spielen wir ne kleine Runde Karten. Improvisation ist einfach alles.
      Nach dem Tunnel tausche ich erst mal t-Shirt gegen Langarmshirt. Mitten im Regen posiert eine Influenzerin lächelnd und hüpfend in knappen Shorts. Na so schön ist es hier nun auch mal wieder nicht. Es wird höflich gelacht und dann doch lieber die Kunst aus Metall fotografiert. Das Angebot auch mich im Regen abzulichten lehne ich dankend ab.
      Endlich kommen wir in Zürich an und werden herzlichst begrüßt. Aufgrund der späten Stunde geht es direkt auf „Essenssuche“. Kaum ist man nicht mehr in Italien, gestaltet es sich wieder schwieriger.
      Zum krönendem Abschluss des Abends wird noch ein bisschen gezockt. Zuerst mit Wein vom Gardasee und dann mit Portwein. Das Motto scheint eh zu lauten „flunkern oder fuckeln oder doch heimlich schummeln?“ Da sind die Umdrehungen dann auch egal.
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    • Day12

      Bolzano og áfram

      September 6, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Ég náði til Bolzano í hádeginu í gær og villtist bara einu sinni í leit minni að hótelinu sem mamma og pabbi voru á. Það er lítið, einkarekið, og notalegt, og ég gat lagt, með herkjum og hjálp, fyrir utan. Veðrið var dásamlegt, sól og hæfilega heitt, um 24 °C. Fór með mömmu og pabba í labbitúr og við fengum okkur pikknikk-hádegismat í litlum almenningsgarði. Höfðum það svo notalegt það sem eftir lifði dags.

      Leiðir skildi svo í morgun - þau lögðu af stað til Bled í Slóveníu og ég varð eftir í Bolzano. Fór í miðbæinn, sem er fallegur og sjarmerandi, og var komin í röð fyrir utan Fornminjasafn Suður-Týról 5 mínútum fyrir opnun. Skoðaði sýningu um ísmanninn svokallaða, Ötsi. Ég skora á þá sem ekki þekkja til að kynna sér hann - hann er stórmerkilegur. (Mynd 1).

      Það var rigning þegar ég fór inn á safnið kl. 10, og það var meiri rigning þegar ég kom út um hálf-tólf. Ég ákvað því að yfirgefa staðinn og skipaði GPS-tækinu að leiðsegja mér til Verona. Ók í ausandi rigningu um helming leiðarinnar, í gegnum stórkostlegt alpalandslag (það sem ég sá af því fyrir súld/þoku).

      Fyrst voru tré til beggja handa, en svo þegar neðar dró ók ég eftir sveitavegum á milli stórra aldingarða þar sem aðallega virtust ræktuð epli, og í gegnum pínulítil þorp. (Mynd 2)

      Svo tók við blandaður landbúnaður, þ.á m. vínekrur; það stytti svo upp og ég kom neðar, í meira þéttbýli; og loks tóku við iðnaðar- og verslunarhverfi og þá var komið þrumuveður í fjarska og aftur orðið rigningarlegt.

      Ég kom mér á tjaldstæði í einu úthverfi Verona rétt áður en það fór aftur að rigna. Ætla svo að skoða veðurspá áður en ég ákveð hvort ég fer í austur eða vestur á morgun. Er lítið spennt fyrir Feneyjum í rigningu, en get vel skoðað söfn í Mílanó þó það mígrigni.
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    • Day4

      Sirmione - Verona

      September 21 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Nach erfolgreicher Reparatur.. dank heilenden Hände von Wolfgang 🥰und Multifunktionswerkzeug sowie Leukoplast funktioniert mein Kiox wieder 👏👏. Gut in Verona angekommen.. zumindest wir, das Gepäck bis jz noch nicht,🙄, aber egal frisch geduscht und mit Ersatzklamotten erkunden wir jz dann die Stadt. Die Sonne scheint, es ist schön warm, passt alles.Read more

    • Day11


      October 20, 2021 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Nachdem wir die eigentliche Route nach Cinque Terre wetterbedingt ändern musste, führte uns der Weg nach Verona.
      Auch wenn der Balkon von Romeo und Julia wirklich overhyped ist, hat es uns in Verona sehr gut gefallen.Read more

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    Casone, Q18504293

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