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  • Day 26

    Santillana del Mar to Comillas

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I walked from one tourist town to another today, though Comillas is nowhere near as touristy as Santillana del Mar. It does have a house designed by Gaudí that is very interesting.

    I had been hoping to "wing it" today and stop whenever I felt like it, but I began hearing from others in the albergue last night that accommodation was tight in Comillas, which was 22.5 km away. My other option was San Vicente de la Barquera - which would have required at least another 2.5 hours to get to, and it was going to be a warm day. So I caved and booked a room in a pensión since the only hostel in town was fully booked.

    I did enjoy arriving early enough to go down to the beach, then tour the Gaudí house.

    This is what my guide book says about Comillas and the influence of the aristocracy from Barcelona:

    "Comillas boomed in the 19th century when the Barcelonan aristocracy started summering here – and brought their architects along. The local shipping magnate, Antonio López, made a fortune from the Cuban slave trade, bought the title of Marquis de Comillas, and married the daughter of Barcelona’s richest man. With money to burn, the marquis became Antoní Gaudí’s primary patron, and Gaudí left his mark in Comillas. The Capricho de Gaudí was entirely his own creation. Built as the marquis’s summerhouse, it is a stunning combination of iron, brick, and ceramic, displaying Spanish and Arabic influences. Sunflowers are prominent on this surrealist structure. Gaudí assisted with the general design and furnishings of the Palacio de Sobrellano, which is more properly attributed to Joan Mortorell. An impressive neo-Gothic building, this dominates the left hill as you follow the camino out of town. The interior is considered even finer than the exterior, particularly the grand salon. Regular tours run daily (€3). Gaudí also contributed to the Capilla-Pantéon, which holds the crypts of the marquis’s two sons."

    My plan for tomorrow is no plan. There are several towns that I can stop in along the way.
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